What cassette do you have on your DH rig?
- Thread starter SthFRider
- Start date
aint that the truth! i wont use any other chain.
IRC 9spd 11-28 with the 28 cut off the spider and the 11 replaced with an aluminum spacer. It is now a 7 spd 12-25. This gives a straighter chainline when I'm in the 12 or 25 than I got with a 9spd 12-25. Less rub on the chain guild, never skips under power and bumps, perfect steps between gears so I can shift one cog at a time.
Up front a 39T for DH or a 35T for freeride. I HIGHLY recommend this setup.
Up front a 39T for DH or a 35T for freeride. I HIGHLY recommend this setup.
been running duraace 11-27 (swap 14 for new 11) and 11-23.
but thinking every time i double shift i should drop a few gears to 6-7 speed. curious what ratios the 6-7 speeders are running? presumably u can't run 11 anymore or does chainline really make much difference? 36/11 seems like the perfect top gear and a bigger ring upfront seems unnecessary... thoughts
but thinking every time i double shift i should drop a few gears to 6-7 speed. curious what ratios the 6-7 speeders are running? presumably u can't run 11 anymore or does chainline really make much difference? 36/11 seems like the perfect top gear and a bigger ring upfront seems unnecessary... thoughts
I've always had problems with 11Ts skipping when putting down power at top gear speeds over real DH terrain on several different frames. I see lots of other people without 11s so I'm not the only one. 38-40/12 is a usable gear to attain real speed.
If you're putting out a lot of power and your high speed sections are rough you'll notice the improvement of a larger cog and straighter chainline.
My 7spd cassette is 12-14-16-18-20-22-25.
If you're putting out a lot of power and your high speed sections are rough you'll notice the improvement of a larger cog and straighter chainline.
My 7spd cassette is 12-14-16-18-20-22-25.
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I use the same set up
pretty cool setup man, so how does the shifter interact with the lesser amount of gears?
Stripped down SLX cassette, 12-21t cogs paired with some carbon spacers. The cogs seem to hold up fairly well, being a trials rider at heart they've had to withstand the occassional pedalkick and static gap... (Yeah, on the DH bike.)
Just fine. With a 7 spd cassette the limit screws on my X9 derailleur are just long enough. Because I have a gear indicator I use shifts 1-7 (just don't shift to 8 or 9 cuz that results in a slack cable) but if you don't have an indicator use 3-9.
Igz9spd Dura-Ace cassettes are cheap... I got mine (12-25) brand new for $80
6spd's on SS hubs is old news, I ran that a longggg time ago. Pro2SS is most prime for it.
I've thought about doing this for a long time as it seems like the perfect solution for a strong & light back end but when I tried the shorter cassette on my regular Pro II, I couldn't get the X0 mech to work with less than 7 or 8 (I forget which) gears as the adjusting screw fell off the front of lower "limit pad" and the screw started taking chunks out of the side of it.
How did you get it to work?
ok i was thinking that was the proper method, i am curious as to the answer to the response above me, i could see myself doing something like this for the upcoming season, i love simple...DH bikes are complicated enough, great spot to help lesson that.
No problems at all. Needed to change one of the stop screws to keep it from overshifting the smallest sprocket. Also had to make sure the shifter was at the stop (as it normally would be on the smallest sprocket) when on the 12t, otherwise it didn't shift too well. It doesn't make sense but that's what I and the best local mechanic figured, and it solved the problem. (At midnight a friday night, local time, my ability to explain stuff like this isn't the best.)
Would like to change to a super short cage mech though... Maybe a roadie 105 ss cage would fit the slx mech... Need to try that.
Sounds like some people have more trouble with the limit screws. My 7 cogs are in positions 2-8 on a standard freehub and the X9's limit screws are just barely long enough.
Yo dude!
I actually found a longer limiting screw that had the same thread pitch as the normal ones and just used that! Also, a tad more ghetto way is let the shifter click up 3 times before you tension the cable to the derailleur and thus you can only shift up 7 times and have 3 dead gears on the bottom!
Cheers
I have seen issues cured like that before, my bike as well when I went from a sram to shimano DT recently..... I had a fairly new Sram chain, decided to keep it at first..... damn thing just wouldnt shift right in the mid range.... finally I gave up, replaced with shimano chain..... All teh difference inthe world. Just still seems that no matter how "compatible" something is, there are still differences, Like products still go best with like products.
Good to hear you have it all situated
The longer limit screws ar ethe way to go. They are really easy to get ahold of actually. Like you and others have said, just start off your bottom gear as normal when you go through setup, the stopps should keep you from over shiftingYo dude!
I actually found a longer limiting screw that had the same thread pitch as the normal ones and just used that! Also, a tad more ghetto way is let the shifter click up 3 times before you tension the cable to the derailleur and thus you can only shift up 7 times and have 3 dead gears on the bottom!
Cheers
Also, Dura-Ace chain on Dura-Ace 12-25 cassette is what I run.
XO shifter/derailleur.
My shifting is absolutely impeccable.
XO shifter/derailleur.
My shifting is absolutely impeccable.
Why not this? (other than the insanely high cost) Set this up a week ago or so at the shop to see how it would work. Crispest shifting I have ever felt...and DAMN is it light! If I had no budget, this would be my setup of choice.
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Hate... you... sooo much....
I combine 2 different cassettes to make up 1 on my DH bikes.
I use a 12-27 Ultegra for the top 4 or 5 gears on the aluminum carriers.
Then I use Sram PC990 for the higher ratio cogs. They tend to be lighter than the stock Ultegra and I can get an 11t high gear.
In the end I end up with a 11-27 set up that's slightly lighter than a 12-27 Ultegra cassette.
(With the left over gears I put together a 12-34T cassette for my trail bikes)
I've been running these combos for 2 1/2 years now without issues.
-Kevin
I use a 12-27 Ultegra for the top 4 or 5 gears on the aluminum carriers.
Then I use Sram PC990 for the higher ratio cogs. They tend to be lighter than the stock Ultegra and I can get an 11t high gear.
In the end I end up with a 11-27 set up that's slightly lighter than a 12-27 Ultegra cassette.
(With the left over gears I put together a 12-34T cassette for my trail bikes)
I've been running these combos for 2 1/2 years now without issues.
-Kevin
Thanks for the advice igz, I might try and get a longer screw and try that method out, there's no way I could got for the dead clicks options - it'd annoy the hell out of meYo dude!
I actually found a longer limiting screw that had the same thread pitch as the normal ones and just used that! Also, a tad more ghetto way is let the shifter click up 3 times before you tension the cable to the derailleur and thus you can only shift up 7 times and have 3 dead gears on the bottom!
Cheers
For ya'll that are running the Sram PG-970 what size chainring are you running with it? 36? 38?
34t, but running a 33t this year w/ my 11-34t PG970
33/11 as a top gear? I thought the point is to go fast.
The point is to be able to wheelie drop off of a picnic table!
never had problems with speed at all. its not like im riding the kamikaze. i ride up and down hills with it
Not racing, but I use a 33t front 11-34 cassette, and don't find that I need any higher gear except at really high speed sections at whistler, all my local stuff it is plenty, and i pedal up the hill a lot. i would like a lower gear for going up, 11-36 9sp cassette would be sooooo sweet.
I've been riding the 11-28t HG-80 Shimano all season on my Enduro and Demo... only time I don't like it is on steep climbs on the Enduro, for DH I think it's got the best usable gears for me at least. And it's not super spendy.
36t ring and 11-32 PG980. Happens to have an HG50 chain on it at the moment. Shifts well enough for me.
The bike came stock with a 12-23, but for a lot of my riding, it's more coasting and then you have to slow for a really tight technical section, on the 11-32 I'm usually in the 4th cog, which I think is a 23. Anyway, if I'm racing at a level where tight ratios are important, I'll pick up a corncob, but a range of gears is more useful for me.
The bike came stock with a 12-23, but for a lot of my riding, it's more coasting and then you have to slow for a really tight technical section, on the 11-32 I'm usually in the 4th cog, which I think is a 23. Anyway, if I'm racing at a level where tight ratios are important, I'll pick up a corncob, but a range of gears is more useful for me.