[ghostrider]

So, my rear hub is toast - a WTB LaserDisc Lite. The rim is fine (Mavic x717), so I was looking at replacing the hub with a Hope Pro II which it looks like I can get for about $200 including tax, tip, handling, shipping, profit, etc, and it will be about $60 to rebuild the wheel at my shop. The turnaround on that might be awhile these days, but I'd have a decent wheel as far as I can tell.

Then, I noticed I could score a new Mavic CrossMax Enduro for about the same price ($250) and it got me thinkin... Anybody have any thoughts on either of these setups? Which will last longer in theory? Do I have any other options? Any info will help. Many tanks in advance.

 

[stinkyboy]

Mavic CrossMax Enduros suck IMO. I ran a set and was lucky to travel 1 mile with all of my spokes still in the hub. They were tight and true and still had many problems with them. Others seem to be happy with theirs. I would never run a Mavic hub ever again.

My 2¢

 

[Mike B.]

The Hope is a much better hub than anything Mavic has ever put in a wheel. Easy pick for me.

Curious what happened to your WTB though, not engaging, bearings shot?

 

[ghostrider]

The Hope is a much better hub than anything Mavic has ever put in a wheel. Easy pick for me.

Curious what happened to your WTB though, not engaging, bearings shot?

Both, actually. This is the second set of bearings, but the real issue is it doesn't engage reliably any more - usually half a rotation or more. I'd be happy to try and rebuild it, but I can't get any info out of WTB about how to do it. Very poor customer service from that company.

 

[Secret Squirrel]

Both, actually. This is the second set of bearings, but the real issue is it doesn't engage reliably any more - usually half a rotation or more. I'd be happy to try and rebuild it, but I can't get any info out of WTB about how to do it. Very poor customer service from that company.

Go Hope. Mavic's hubs have disintegrated on me before...don't know the model, it was pretty early in my mountain bike years....all I know is, I like Hope and Hadley. You want something that works and will work well for years, go with one of them. Mavic rims on the other hand are cool, I like them.

 

[splat]

What no Chris King ?

 

[Mike B.]

Both, actually. This is the second set of bearings, but the real issue is it doesn't engage reliably any more - usually half a rotation or more. I'd be happy to try and rebuild it, but I can't get any info out of WTB about how to do it. Very poor customer service from that company.

The bearings aren't great if you ride anywhere wet and will need changed periodically. The engagement issue is most likely the small tip on the spring in the freehub body. Unfortunately you need a new freehub body since the spring is not really user serviceable. They have a kit that comes with a freehub body, new cam plate, and new outer seal that should take care of it. Not sure what the retail price would be but I would think <$40. Two 17mm cone wrenches, an axle vise, and 20 minutes to change the bearings, freehub, cam plate and re-assemble. New bearings are probably going for about $8 each.

I've got Pro II hubs on my trail bike and I'm very pleased.

 

[ghostrider]

The bearings aren't great if you ride anywhere wet and will need changed periodically. The engagement issue is most likely the small tip on the spring in the freehub body. Unfortunately you need a new freehub body since the spring is not really user serviceable. They have a kit that comes with a freehub body, new cam plate, and new outer seal that should take care of it. Not sure what the retail price would be but I would think <$40. Two 17mm cone wrenches, an axle vise, and 20 minutes to change the bearings, freehub, cam plate and re-assemble. New bearings are probably going for about $8 each.

I've got Pro II hubs on my trail bike and I'm very pleased.

Cool, thanks! Maybe I'll give it another chance since I don't have much dough to spend on this stuff right now. Any idea how the cam plate is removed from the hub shell? Thanks again!

 

[ghostrider]

What no Chris King ?

Dude, I sold those to buy these WTB hubs AND a new fork. Maybe it wasn't such a good idea after all...

 

[Mike B.]

Cool, thanks! Maybe I'll give it another chance since I don't have much dough to spend on this stuff right now. Any idea how the cam plate is removed from the hub shell? Thanks again!

If you clamp the drive side end cap in the axle vise and loosen/remove the two nuts on the non-drive side, the hub shell will lift right off the axle. Turn the shell over and set it down on the non-drive side. Use needle nose pliers to lift the 6 pawls out then you can pull the cam plate right out. You can drive the bearings out of the shell at that point and clean everything. Re-assembly should be pretty straightforward. When you put the cam plate and pawls back in, use the point of a screwdriver and rotate the cam plate a few times back and forth to make sure everything is working right. Use a light grease on the pawls and cam plate.

Pull the freehub body off the axle and do the obvious thing. Don't try to mix an old freehub body with a new cam plate or vice versa, won't work.

Slide everything back together making sure the seal around the freehub body is snapped in to place both in the shell and the fhb. Carefully adjust the preload on the bearings and you should be good to go. There should be the smallest amount of lateral play when adjusted properly. Usually I'll lightly snug the first nut so there is no play at all, then holding it with on cone wrench, tighten the second nut until it is snug. Then back off the first (inner) nut and check the play. Adjust accordingly from there.

 

[Bicyclist]

I would go Hope as they seem to be the best deal out for hubs and it's not worth worrying about your half-working hub all the time. Just put on Hopes and forget about it.