[MikeD]

Hi...

In the middle of my 1st wheelbuild. (XT Disc to PlanetX BMF 24" 3x).

Front wheel's laced and tensioned and trued (looks great), but I can't get it to dish. The non-drive side is already to max tension, and the drive is getting too slack for me to feel comfortable...and the wheel is STILL offset to the drive side by 1/2-1/4"

Are my spokes the wrong length? Webcyclery calculated the spoke length for me...236 ft drv/rr non drv, 234 ft non drv/rr drv.

I was trying to check their math, but can't find exact specs on the rims online. Can anyone help in any way? Thanks!

-Mike

 

[MikeD]

Just used DT Swiss' spoke calc. (I remembered the BMFs have the same stats as Ryno Lites--I've been told so, anyhow) and the results equalled what Webcyclery sold me. 234.5 and 235.7 are pretty close to 234 and 236...

What else could I have done? The wheel looks the same as my other 3x wheels...

Mike

 

[edoz]

Just a stupid question, but are you sure you used the right spokes on the right side? I'm asking because I've done that sort of thing on occasion, as I'm sure many have. (At least I hope I'm not the only one!)

 

[MikeD]

That I put the 234s on the (front) non-drive and the 236s on the drive side, like the Webcyclery said to. The DT Swiss Calc. said the 234s went on the left and the 236 on the right...I assume that's as you sit on the bike, so I think I'm good...

Am I?

 

[Brian HCM#1]

Originally posted by MikeD
That I put the 234s on the (front) non-drive and the 236s on the drive side, like the Webcyclery said to. The DT Swiss Calc. said the 234s went on the left and the 236 on the right...I assume that's as you sit on the bike, so I think I'm good...

Am I?

Yeah thats correct. Are you using a dishing tool? If not you'll need to flip the wheel in the stand to make sure its dished properly.

 

[bomberz1qr20]

Originally posted by MikeD
That I put the 234s on the (front) non-drive and the 236s on the drive side, like the Webcyclery said to. The DT Swiss Calc. said the 234s went on the left and the 236 on the right...I assume that's as you sit on the bike, so I think I'm good...

Am I?

Nope.

I'm sure that is wrong. The dishing of the wheel would mean the distance from the rim to a flange closer to the center of the wheel (the DRIVE SIDE) would be SHORTER. The drive side flange is farther in so it is CLOSER to the rim, get it?

 

[edoz]

If you're talking about the front wheel, you should be good. Since the disc is on the left side, your shorter spokes should be there, also. Your short spokes on the rear should still be drive side, the disc doesn't sit far enough in to offset the flange more than the cassette.

 

[MikeD]

Looks like I just needed to slack out the drive side a teensy bit more...somehow it made a big difference. The shorter spokes were indeed on the non-drive (disk) side on the front; the rear is opposite, according to both Webcyclery and DT Swiss, so I'm going with that.

Thanks all for your help and input...

Mike

 

[bomberz1qr20]

Oops

I'm a dumbass I didn't notice it was the FRONT wheel...

 

[MikeD]

I'm the dumbass who couldn't dish his wheel...so there. We're even.

Thanks for the help...

Mike

 

[riderx]

Well, I posted this yesterday, but it got lost in the RM server move.

When building a wheel with dish, you need to tension the short side spokes first according to Gerd Schraner (DT master wheelbuilder and author of "The Art of Wheelbuilding"). This means drawing the wheel WAY over to the short spoke side (drive side on a non-disc rear, disc side on a disc front). This is the only way you can achieve the proper tension on the short side spokes. This is important because by the nature of a dished wheel, these spokes are going to be carring most of the load.

This is how I've been building wheels and it works great. BTW, the above book is highly recommended.