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Where are the "light" urban assult hardtails at?

Aug 14, 2005
35
0
Green Bay
Hey guys,

I've got a 2004 Kona Stinky (~43lbs), fully, nice for my first DH rig, but after putting about 500 miles on it using it at a urban bike ontop of the backcoutry skinney gaps, I've decided to get a hardtail for all my urban assulting needs.

When I think of hardtail, I think "light" and "durable". Now I know the older P3 from specialized (2004) is a little heavy as they say (about 34lbs as I'm told), and its most definetally a strong bike from what I hear; I still want to find a nice and light hardtail..being in the range of28lbs....(is that a joke? Im not sure)

Possible?

I don't really have the money to piece together a bike from a frame, so I would really like to buy a bike that comes complete.

Is 34lbs relatively light for a urban hardtail or not?

There's a guy at my local shop with a '04 P3 in EXCELLENT condition for 500 bucks and he's selling it tonight to his buddy if I don't jump on it.

Should I go for it or should I keep looking?



Thanks guys...(and gals)
 

DH_RACER21

Chimp
Apr 18, 2006
16
0
ya switching out wheels and fork will lighetn it up a lot. So i say go for it the 04 P3 is a good bike.
 

skatetokil

Turbo Monkey
Jan 2, 2005
2,383
-1
DC/Bluemont VA
if you want it light for exclusively urban, you can go singlespeed and lose the front brake. that will shave some weight. keep your wheels beefy or you'll regret it.
 

skurfer333

Monkey
Apr 21, 2005
249
0
Raleigh, NC
skatetokil said:
if you want it light for exclusively urban, you can go singlespeed and lose the front brake. that will shave some weight. keep your wheels beefy or you'll regret it.
can't say it better than that. I got a singlespeed Haro Zero w/ 24" Halo Tornados, a rear brake and a Manitou Gold Label. It weighs in at the low 30s. a of my personal opinions (that doesn't mean these are right for everyone) that help keep the weight down:
-stay with aluminum frames unless you're taking huge drops to flat
-get an urban fork, not a 130mm trail fork...you'll save weight and keep pedaling efficiency
-singlespeed, its easier to maintain and after a few rides with the right setup you probably won't miss the gears
-front brakes are unnecessary unless you're doing nose stalls
-don't buy the heaviest/burliest anything just because you want the strongest. mid-weight components (rims,stems,bars...) are strong too. sometimes people go overboard (i know i do) and buy the toughest wheel or bars just because they think they're unbreakable....this isn't true, and many times riders put too much unnecessary weight on their bikes.
 
Aug 14, 2005
35
0
Green Bay
Thanks for the tips skurfer.

I ended up not being able to get a P3 at my local shop for 500 tonight because some older gentleman (newb) offered him 700. So at least there isnt a bike hindering my decision because its convenient.

I found a real nice cannondale chase on ebay but It's prob a fraudulent seller. Too bad. Real nice bike.
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
86,049
24,576
media blackout
i have an old Cheeta Dual Slalom frame currently built for street/park. Single speed, '02 Marz Z1 Freeride, xtr cranks, sun mammoth rear, rhyno lite front, rear v brake only.

27.5 lbs before i put my holy rollers on, and before that i was using heavier tires, so its probably under 27 now.

edit: this is also with a rear xt disc hub converted to bolt on w/ a solid axle
 

AirAddict

Monkey
Jun 10, 2005
221
0
Asheville, NC
in my opinion, i don't see much point to light weight urban bikes. They're plenty light in the 36-37 lb. range... and it's a hardtail with a short travel fork... so even if it was as heavy as a big bike, it'd still "feel" more flickable and lighter.

And i've tried the whole light bike thing... too much money for parts that arn't as strong as slightly heavier parts. I'd come back from each ride with something else broken. I'd just rather have parts that i don't have to worry about... especially things like rims.

Don't bash me... i was just saying my opinion. I'm just trying to state my point that i'd rather have a more reliable 35 lb bike, then a sub 30 lb. bike that i'd have to worry about when progressing as a rider.
 

Mudpuppy

Monkey
Oct 20, 2001
448
0
Port Orchard/Not WSU
My endless I just built up is around 32lbs and I'm super excited. It's lighter than I expected it to be. I was planning for ~35. I could lighten it up a little more if it was only for urban and not my all around by putting less seatpost on it and taking off the front brake.

I guess what I'm trying to say is I think ~30lbs is about as light as an urban HT should be and still have good durability. Though you could mix and match a little different and go down even more depending on personal weight and riding style.
 

dexter

Turbo Monkey
Sep 23, 2001
3,053
99
Boise, Idaho
my street bike that i do just about everything except dh on is 27.6 lbs
sinister dna frame
d3.1 rims on hadley 108t ti bubs with alu nipples and dt revo spokes. tubeless with larsen tt/holyroller/high roller semi slicks
full deity kit with ti bb spindle
nyc freeride glory holes, stem, collar, and bar ends
avid rear juciy 5 brake.
thomson post
single speed 12t cog
e13 micro drive chainwheel and bashguard. rides like a dream and nothing really to break on it
 

dexter

Turbo Monkey
Sep 23, 2001
3,053
99
Boise, Idaho
for the love of god please take off the lizard skins. they are worse for your fork than leaving them bare and they look hideous
 

skurfer333

Monkey
Apr 21, 2005
249
0
Raleigh, NC
dexter said:
for the love of god please take off the lizard skins. they are worse for your fork than leaving them bare and they look hideous
I don't know how they'd be worse, but they definitely make you look like a hack.....

motion seconded
 

cowman

Monkey
Oct 17, 2004
227
2
Seattle, WA
that ebay thing doesn't look like much of a scam. Usually they aren't that detailed pictures and they don't know all of the specs and stuff that well.
 

TBFKAHG

Monkey
Aug 11, 2005
165
0
My Woodman Elite comes in at about 25 pounds and that's with a fairly heavy wheelset and flat pedals.
The geometry is perfect for street and can and the fram can be had for as low as $311 at BikeParts.com.
Mine is built up for use as a street/4X bike. It also works well in the park. Throw a longer stem on it and its also pretty decent for Trials.
 

Mudpuppy

Monkey
Oct 20, 2001
448
0
Port Orchard/Not WSU
skurfer333 said:
I don't know how they'd be worse...
I ran them for a bit ~2001. The problem is that the lizard skins will actually trap dirt and debris inside them constantly keeping grit and junk rubbing on your stanchions and trying to get past your seals.
 

ride26

Monkey
Nov 24, 2005
231
0
Henniker NH
skurfer333 said:
I don't know how they'd be worse, but they definitely make you look like a hack.....

motion seconded
thats how the fork came shipped to me, that pics was taken right after the fork was put on here it is now



happy now:thumb:
 

mutasmurf

Chimp
Feb 16, 2002
58
0
Bellingham, WA
If you don't weigh that much, you should think about 24" rhynolites. You'll also want light tires and standard tubes. Kenda K-rads are great street tires. Also, are you into trials? If not, I'd recommend SS. It saves weight, and it's less of a hassle.

As for frames, go steel. Get something that you can beat up. Street bikes are there to be abused and mistreated. Steel frames have alot of give (less rigid), so the ride will be a bit more comfortable as well.
 

butthead

Chimp
Dec 17, 2001
75
0
Las Cruces, NM
TBFKAHG said:
My Woodman Elite comes in at about 25 pounds and that's with a fairly heavy wheelset and flat pedals.
The geometry is perfect for street and can and the fram can be had for as low as $311 at BikeParts.com.
Mine is built up for use as a street/4X bike. It also works well in the park. Throw a longer stem on it and its also pretty decent for Trials.
Apparently that was a pricing error. I ordered one and they told me that I got lucky. They honored their mistake, which was pretty cool of them. The price is now $419. You guys can blame me for the loss of a good deal if you want. They are listed for $329 at www.rhythmcycles.com, though.