It's time for some new brakes as my other ones have finally died. There going to be used for Windrock and some random DH/FR spot. I am looking at either Hayes Mags or Avid juicy sevens. I posted in here because I wanted to get some feedback from people that ride Windrock and know how the brakes peform there. I can't spend over $350 because I can't afford it. Any other brake suggestions are welcome.
which brakes for Windrock?
- Thread starter ironhorse411
- Start date
any 8" brake with do fine. I like the juicys
my juicy 7's worked really good at windrock. I think it did something to my pads though cause after I got back the pads seemed to not work as good.
That's because they were gone.DHracer1067 said:
avid juicy 7's, i love mine
what? you have never been thereTCP21 said:
first of all.
if you're going to ride here, you'd better be ready to spend $$$.
$350 will get you brakes worthy of no more than x-c riding.
here's what the locals are running.
hayes w/8in. rotors. full metalic pads.
set your levers up to where they are just a little shy of the bars as they come on strong. that gives you better modulation and less arm pump, as your fingers aren't reaching way out for the levers.
get ready to go through brake pads every couple of sessions. they don't last long here.
i toss em when they get about half worn down. at that point they start to wear extremely fast and you'll go from having pad to metal to metal contact within one run. quickly ruining a rotor.
running cheap parts out here will break your budget. as you'll spend more time in the parking lot than riding.and more time on the phone monday mornings, ordering new s... and brakes are no place to skimp on $$$.
if you're going to ride here, you'd better be ready to spend $$$.
$350 will get you brakes worthy of no more than x-c riding.
here's what the locals are running.
hayes w/8in. rotors. full metalic pads.
set your levers up to where they are just a little shy of the bars as they come on strong. that gives you better modulation and less arm pump, as your fingers aren't reaching way out for the levers.
get ready to go through brake pads every couple of sessions. they don't last long here.
i toss em when they get about half worn down. at that point they start to wear extremely fast and you'll go from having pad to metal to metal contact within one run. quickly ruining a rotor.
running cheap parts out here will break your budget. as you'll spend more time in the parking lot than riding.and more time on the phone monday mornings, ordering new s... and brakes are no place to skimp on $$$.
I looked at them and there was still plenty left. Is there some sort of coating on brake rotors? I was looking at my rear rotor cause it was making this really weird noise at this one spot and it looked like some coating was worn off.Jeremy R said:
so i can still say i love my brakes because the work wellmotomike said:
i love my shimano xt's (grimeca style)
less arm pump than hayes...
less arm pump than hayes...
you cooked your pads and glazed you rotors.DHracer1067 said:
toss the pads and remove the rotor and take some very fine sandpaper(400-440 grit)and lightly sand off the glaze.
it'll take a half a run or so with new pads and sanded rotor, for them to bed in. then you'll be fine.
Find some circa 1999 XT V-brakes. They are the best.
Onza Porcupines would be another top bet.profro said:
They work well with the Onza pedals and the Onza Rail/Rip tire combo.
full metallic pads? what brand would those be?
i'm running hayes nines and whatever the stock sintered pads (gold back) are, but am going to buy/order some new pads for this weekend's trip to windrock.
where do i score these fine stoppers?
of course, if i already have them that would be cool to know too.
i'm running hayes nines and whatever the stock sintered pads (gold back) are, but am going to buy/order some new pads for this weekend's trip to windrock.
where do i score these fine stoppers?
of course, if i already have them that would be cool to know too.
The stock Hayes pads, copper backed, are what I run. The black backed ones are organic, I think, and wear out really fast.
I ran a U-brake with a gyro on my 20" last time I was there. Had absolutely no problems.
Basically any hydraulic brake not XC specific w/8" rotors is fine...except Hopes.
Basically any hydraulic brake not XC specific w/8" rotors is fine...except Hopes.
ditto to Tom. And DITTO to the full metallic pads....if you can get them. Hayes buyers are fond of the semi-metallic pads b/c they are quieter. But the full metal ones last longest, have a more solid feel and definitely bite better.
My bike came with Juicy 7's nad i'm giving them a try to see how they hold up. They did fine at Windrock last weekend...did destroy the little red knob/power adjuster thing though. The knob is plastic wrapped on metal so it tore the plastic only. If the dial had been metal, it would have ripped the adjuster out.
My bike came with Juicy 7's nad i'm giving them a try to see how they hold up. They did fine at Windrock last weekend...did destroy the little red knob/power adjuster thing though. The knob is plastic wrapped on metal so it tore the plastic only. If the dial had been metal, it would have ripped the adjuster out.
F'en sissys and your brakes...
Damn! Is that your heel or elbow?
Heel of course. I always ride flats, without shoes. 
Nah, its my elbow after Southern Rocks.
Nah, its my elbow after Southern Rocks.
That's his heel.Peete said:
Doug likes to wear t-shirts on his feet just for fun.
that's not even a fresh wound bub. There are scabs....hell, no raw meat or oozing. Old news. Show us fresh ground chuck...or Benprofro said:F'en sissys and your brakes...
doverspoke80 said:
Dude the elbow is mighty fresh. Its got super glue on it. Right on the elbow is about 1/2" deep. But I pulled it together and put that liquid stitches on it. It can't ooze, its sealed shut and hard as a rock. That liquid stitches/super glue stuff is great. I carry some in my riding gear. Ask Chepler how deep it is. I cleaned it up at his place yesterday.bizutch said:
my hayes mags did just fine. i was running semi-metalic pads and there was surprisingly still pad left (although i only made three runs cause well souther rocks ****ed me up), but juicy 7s should do fine for windrock although i would be kinda worried about the adjuster nob rip off like it did with butch but still a good set of brakes from what i have heard and what i have ridden.
the gold backed pads are the ones i'm talking about.the blacks work ok too, but the golds stop much better in the front.Roodle said:full metallic pads? what brand would those be?
i'm running hayes nines and whatever the stock sintered pads (gold back) are, but am going to buy/order some new pads for this weekend's trip to windrock.
where do i score these fine stoppers?
of course, if i already have them that would be cool to know too.