why is it that torx bolts seem to strip allot no matter how carefull you are taking them in and out. it really pisses me off. is there any way to get them out other ways? they seem pretty stuck in there. any advice? thanks
why do rotor bolts suck?
- Thread starter konahucker43
- Start date
if they are stripped out, I always took a dremel, and grinded it to a slot for a flat head skrew driver. Also, you may want to consider buying stainless bolts, or higher quality bolts.
also think about shimano rotor bolts. i have never had one strip or break off. i have had all the others break myself just not shimano one.
i replaced my rear wheel's rotor bolts with allen heads - unfortunately theres no clearance on the front wheel/rotor for allen heads because they dont clear with the fork.
I've had a couple incidents with seized up torx rotor bolts thats made the actual torx key twist, and strip the bolt. Usually I file the bolt head on 2 opposite sides, and then use an open-ended wrench to turn it loose.
hope that helps
I've had a couple incidents with seized up torx rotor bolts thats made the actual torx key twist, and strip the bolt. Usually I file the bolt head on 2 opposite sides, and then use an open-ended wrench to turn it loose.
hope that helps
AKA: not being ham fisted.i would say quite often its user error. havent had any trouble here, i guess i have that special touch....
I believe that's tires your thinking of:biggrin:
Try to not over tighten when installing. Skip using thread lock, just routinely tighten every 3-5 rides. Have you tried using an easy-out bit to remove the damaged bolt?
thats an awsome idea. allans are deffinatly a little bit easier to deal with than torx i think. ohh and about the front wheel. what you could do is dremal the top of them so that they clear the fork legs, but that is a lot of work. something else you could try is the tapperd allan head bolts. there angled up just for tight clearance situations such as this. the only problem i see is that the rotor isnt drilled to accept them but hey going to a bolt store and buying 6 of them isnt gonna cost you more than a dollar or two so its not gonna kill you to give them a try.
Torx is technically a better interface, but it seems with poor tools and the lack of insertion depth, they die fast. Use anti-sieze when you replace and torque correctly.
As others have stated, high quality hex might help (grade 12.9), but clearance might be an issue.
Hope makes great hex-head lo-profile rotor bolts that have lasted me quite a while. ANY bike shop can get them from QBP or BTI for you.
As others have stated, high quality hex might help (grade 12.9), but clearance might be an issue.
Hope makes great hex-head lo-profile rotor bolts that have lasted me quite a while. ANY bike shop can get them from QBP or BTI for you.
Blasphemy!!! how un-american!!
A true American NEVER accept responsibility for their actions..It is ALWAYS someone elses fault!!
Be carefull with that kind of talk on a public forum
Torx are used because they have a lower profile head compared to socket heads (a.k.a. allen heads). They are very user friendly when the torx key is directly above the head, and not used at an angle.
If the drive becomes stripped, use an "easy out". You just have to drill the appropriate size hole, tap in the easy out, then turn. Viola!
If the drive becomes stripped, use an "easy out". You just have to drill the appropriate size hole, tap in the easy out, then turn. Viola!
dude i dont know about you but a drill isnt going anywhere near my 200 dollar front hub, or my 300 dollar rear hub. drills are for people who cant figure out how to use a drimal or who arent smart enough to use a torx.
I don't see the drill as a big problem. As long as you use it properly its money.
I've stripped a couple of the torx heads, a long, long time ago being an idiot. If you pay attention to what you're doing, they should come off easy.
i recommend smacking your rotor bolts with a mallet before attempting to loosen. It helps break any bond (be it threadlock or oxidation or whatever) between the bolts and hub, therefore allowing easy removal!
Works for me anyway
Works for me anyway
One thing is to make sure you get those small torx wrenches avid/hayes/everybody sends you in set properly. Someone above mentioned if you get it at an angle, you can strip them out.
-So, I use an old 9mm axle (the little wrench slides in perfectly) as sort of a breaker bar so I can use one hand to make sure its set properly and the other hand to do the turnin'.
Or you can purchase one of those t-handled jobies. Both of those ways seem to work better and you are less likely to bloody up your knuckles on your rotor.
-So, I use an old 9mm axle (the little wrench slides in perfectly) as sort of a breaker bar so I can use one hand to make sure its set properly and the other hand to do the turnin'.
Or you can purchase one of those t-handled jobies. Both of those ways seem to work better and you are less likely to bloody up your knuckles on your rotor.
my Hope's hex socket (not torx) head is good and i use blue loctite on every single one of them.
if you cant figure out a torx head then how are you gonna figure out how to use a complicated drill. i mean you have to plug those in and push a button, and that can get complicated for someone who cant figure our the torx head bolts on your rotor. just my opinion. i say convert all the allan heads, learn to use your tools, or stick with the trusty dremal to solve all the problems.
Any free tool is not going to be worth much. If you are going ot stick to torx bolts, it is WELL worth it to pick up a torx socket for your 3/8" ratchet. They are about $5 from sears and have a lifetime warranty.
you's absolutely right
Dude, hence the "If the drive becomes stripped" part of the sentence
Assuming you could find stainless button head screws they would be worse than steel. Stainless fasteners gall up and cause dissimilar metal corrosion.Also, you may want to consider buying stainless bolts, or higher quality bolts.
I found a slew of grade 8 machine screws that are 3mm allen head at work. I tossed all of the torx screws on our bikes.
I'm sure you can get them at McMaster-Carr or Northern Tool and Equipment.
In my experience, allen bolts strip out easier than torx so ..
torx rules.
torx rules.
rotor: SS
hub: aluminum
bolts: harden steel or SS... looks like either way you have "dissimilar metal". galling often occurs when you're torqing it too much. using threadlockers will also lessen galling. there are SIX bolts holding the rotor... no need to torque it like crazy.
now u have to worry about rust. btw, isn't grade 8 an inch bolt? u meant class 8.8, in that case it's very close to the tensile strength of a regular A2 stainless bolt... if u get A4 then u've exceeded class 8.8.
edit: if you cant figure out how to use a tork head then you shouldnt be using a power tool on your hubs. there does that fix things a little bit for you there slick.
also, the real cool people use standard size allen wrenches on there metric bolts, also, Why dont people just stop acting soo cool, and use a torque wrench, and torque them to 45 inch/pounds. then they will run straighter, any everyone can be happy, because the world will be brighter. 
And when your testicles descend, you can use an angle grinder.