sounds like a pretty good deal to me ....now 
WRX or STI?
- Thread starter stoney
- Start date
I have no idea why I read this thread but I did, and now I feel the need to comment.
1) I have had extensive AutoX experience
2) I have gone through extensive modding of an AWD car (DSM)
3) I have been in the Automotive world professionally for a very very long time.
That being said a few things.
Insurance - aftermarket parts do not add value to your vehicle. Unless you have a stated value policy (which you would pay A LOT MORE for), planned to be at a minimum hosed. Read your insurance policy. It says Fair Market Value, which maybe slightly affected by your ability to prove upkeep. You maybe able to get a Clean vs Average or Rough value for your vehicle based on something other then year and mileage. However if your car has a 15k book value and you have 10k worth of parts in it, dont think you are getting 25k from YOUR insurance company. If it were a liability claim (someone else damaging your car) maybe, and I mean MAYBE.
Racing - there has been some sound AutoX advice given. If you want to be competitive, buy a competive car for its class. If you are going to do it often for a learning experience buy a gokart (seriously).
Subie - has been known in the past to research SCCA events for names and void warranty due to racing.
If you are trying to combine your love of modding, racing, having a fast/fun daily driver and still trying to make a sound financial decision....
Just give up now, its not going to happen. Find another hobby. I hear mountain biking is fun.
1) I have had extensive AutoX experience
2) I have gone through extensive modding of an AWD car (DSM)
3) I have been in the Automotive world professionally for a very very long time.
That being said a few things.
Insurance - aftermarket parts do not add value to your vehicle. Unless you have a stated value policy (which you would pay A LOT MORE for), planned to be at a minimum hosed. Read your insurance policy. It says Fair Market Value, which maybe slightly affected by your ability to prove upkeep. You maybe able to get a Clean vs Average or Rough value for your vehicle based on something other then year and mileage. However if your car has a 15k book value and you have 10k worth of parts in it, dont think you are getting 25k from YOUR insurance company. If it were a liability claim (someone else damaging your car) maybe, and I mean MAYBE.
Racing - there has been some sound AutoX advice given. If you want to be competitive, buy a competive car for its class. If you are going to do it often for a learning experience buy a gokart (seriously).
Subie - has been known in the past to research SCCA events for names and void warranty due to racing.
If you are trying to combine your love of modding, racing, having a fast/fun daily driver and still trying to make a sound financial decision....
Just give up now, its not going to happen. Find another hobby. I hear mountain biking is fun.
Pics per TJ's request. camera sucks, I know. I'll try to get some with a good camera and a clean car.
STI Seats, Kartboy Short Shifter
STI Steering Wheel, Pedals, Kartboy Shifter.
I want to get an STI or WRX head unit to fill the dead space in the dash. It'll look cleaner too.
STI Seats, Kartboy Short Shifter
STI Steering Wheel, Pedals, Kartboy Shifter.
I want to get an STI or WRX head unit to fill the dead space in the dash. It'll look cleaner too.
R32...
TEH END.
How'd you like the DSM Rob? Those are pigs...aren't they?
TEH END.
How'd you like the DSM Rob? Those are pigs...aren't they?
Mk2 or Mk3 GTI+1.8T or VRT swap+6 speed/awd conversion...
BUTTAH!
R32s are worth more now than they were new.
edit: Just having fun fantasizing...
Isn't the STi 3200# or something? No turbo lag with an R32...oh yes.
BUTTAH!
R32s are worth more now than they were new.
edit: Just having fun fantasizing...
Isn't the STi 3200# or something? No turbo lag with an R32...oh yes.
Where's the charm (and enormous repair bills) in a Japanese import?
You just won't admit you're namby-pamby and cannot handle the sheer amount of Germexican and electrical problems that VW has to offer.
I am tempted to take the MkIII to an autox race this summer and see how I do. After I get the coilovers, of course...
You just won't admit you're namby-pamby and cannot handle the sheer amount of Germexican and electrical problems that VW has to offer.
I am tempted to take the MkIII to an autox race this summer and see how I do. After I get the coilovers, of course...
can't believe how cheap you got that interior Mark....nice score. that car is a sleeper and we all know that sleepers are the most fun to drive
Blue's word of the day brought to you by the letter G.......
im goin to use that word in conversation somehow tomorrow
Oh man...you're going to KILL the resale value on that thing...I was thinking a 95 wagon or something...yeesh. It is super nice looking though.
It was an 11 second car, so I would say no.
Mine has 78K miles and still on the original brake pads.
"We Brake for No One"
I know a couple of guys were following along with this build project, so now that I have a few minutes, I thought I'd update.
I got my new wheels finally - 17x7 Oz Super Leggerra Wheels. I've lost five pounds at each corner and the acceleration, especially through the mid-range of the power band, is notably better. Cornering is also dramatically better. I'm hitting corners at speeds that my all seasons would start squeeling, without any audible tire noise. It's already pushing too fast/risky to push it on the streets, so I have a track day in June. I've replaced most of the soft rubber bushings and have since installed harder poly bushings. The steering is also noticably improved. I have most of the parts for the suspension swap, I just need springs and camber plates then I will get it all together.
I've decided that I will eventually just end up turning this car into a track car. I will be getting a lease (Audi A4 2.0T - Stasis Kit) for my next car and writing off a good portion as I will be using it primarily for work. Thank jebus for favorable tax laws.
Needless to say, the rest of the build kit is laid out, step-by-step. Should be track prepped in 2 years, caged within 3.
Wheels: (poor pics, I have no need for a real camera)
I got my new wheels finally - 17x7 Oz Super Leggerra Wheels. I've lost five pounds at each corner and the acceleration, especially through the mid-range of the power band, is notably better. Cornering is also dramatically better. I'm hitting corners at speeds that my all seasons would start squeeling, without any audible tire noise. It's already pushing too fast/risky to push it on the streets, so I have a track day in June. I've replaced most of the soft rubber bushings and have since installed harder poly bushings. The steering is also noticably improved. I have most of the parts for the suspension swap, I just need springs and camber plates then I will get it all together.
I've decided that I will eventually just end up turning this car into a track car. I will be getting a lease (Audi A4 2.0T - Stasis Kit) for my next car and writing off a good portion as I will be using it primarily for work. Thank jebus for favorable tax laws.
Needless to say, the rest of the build kit is laid out, step-by-step. Should be track prepped in 2 years, caged within 3.
Wheels: (poor pics, I have no need for a real camera)
Had a PHDE mid-June and I finally have time to go through my notes. A couple things I noticed:
1. Traction:
Tires are awesome. The 17x7 are notably grippier than the 16x6.5. Downside however is that I seem to have more traction than power now. There are a few corners that previously, I was going into 5th gear pinned and able to power out to the edge of the track. I now have to take them in fourth, wide open. When I shift into 5th, the car does not have enough go to power through. Not really sure how to resolve this, other than through raw power.
2. Handling:
I still have a bit of understeer, and I think it can be corrected with a larger sway (24mm). I have my endlinks on the front now, and they add a notable amount of control. i can only imagine what the sway will add. I'm adding on a 25mm Tribeca sway, as it fits and cost $60. Can't beat that.
3. Suspension:
I'm still on hold for the suspension. I have the entire Koni/GroupN/donors sitting on the floor at the shop except the RCE camber plates. The guys at RCE have me on the list for the next batch, so it's just a matter of time.
4. Alignment:
I need a good alignment. I've settled on -2 front/-1.5 rear, 0 toe around based on suggestions from the guru's. Once I wear my current tires on the 17x7's they will be getting dressed in harder r-compounds.
5. Braking:
I did not have any issues this time, which I think is directly tied to the new tires. I do have a set of WRX rotors/Caliper brackets that need to be installed (but are on hold after some ambiguity regarding the caliper ordered from a retailer). I also have a set of pads HP+ pads that need to go on . This will up my rotor size 2cm, which should help with heat dissipation. I also have all the fixings to install a set of brake ducts, which again should help with the braking. ATE Superblue is also on hold until I get the caliper issues sorted. Hopefully I can get this settled soon, as I would like the new brakes up front.
5. Power
I'm hurting for it. I'm doing my best not to alter the engine, as there is more I can do that will make bigger differences first. When I do start equal length header-hiflow cat-2.25 midpipe-sti axleback (axleback makes negligable gains for the cost. Also Cold air intake, carbon driveshaft (-25# of rotational mass=+25 free hp), lightweight pulley, Cobb cams, and the remaining engine mounting harder for truer power transfer. Which means…
6. Weight reduction:
I know this won’t do much, but 100# is still 100#. WRX Al hood vs the steel RS. Lightweight front bumper beam, eliminate rear for track events. All sound deadening (I just remover the rear deadening and tar this morning. My hands are torn to isht though, so I need to let them heal before I attack the front end of the car.
7. Aerodynamics:
Need to get STI Underbody paneling, cusco rear diffuser mounting bar. I already removed the roof rails already. With this being a wagon I don’t really have a lot of options for front air damns.
Driving:
Major points:
1. Some people have more money than talent. Case in point, the guy with the M3 that wouldn’t get out of the way, and the 5 guys (of 13) that spun themselves off the track.
2. Road debris from spin-off coming back onto the track is bad, especially when located in the apex of the second fastest corner on the track.
3. Losing the back end at 70 is exciting, yet scary (see fore mentioned debris)
4. AWD when side-ways at 70 makes you feel like Peter Solberg. Steer in full lock, more gas.
5. Heel-toe is hard, and I need more practice rev-matching.
6. Slower is fast. Slower is faster. Slower is faster. Exit speed means everything.
I’m hoping to go to Laguna Seca or Infineon for my next day out. It could be interesting as they both have pretty serious elevation changes which might pose a notable issue for my ability to carry speed.
I'm Karting at least once a week and have made it into the 99th percentile at our local race track for all three courses, so I'm getting better. I still have not done any timed lap sessions in the Subie however, so I do not have a baseline to measure against. As much as I would like to get one, I have other things that need attention first. I might be able to convince the g/f to get me one for my b-day.
Beyond that I need to get a full harness for the worst case scenario. IT helps keep me planted as well, so it does have a dual effect. With that comes a harness bar. Week before the trackday prep is getting tedious now. I am able to pull ~100# before I go, and it has a noticeable handling benefit, but damn it's time consuming. Can't wait until I have another car so I can just gut this one.
I'll have pics of current status tonight. New wheels, no roofrails, sti seats. Most of the work it hidden as it's suspension or hidden weightloss however.
1. Traction:
Tires are awesome. The 17x7 are notably grippier than the 16x6.5. Downside however is that I seem to have more traction than power now. There are a few corners that previously, I was going into 5th gear pinned and able to power out to the edge of the track. I now have to take them in fourth, wide open. When I shift into 5th, the car does not have enough go to power through. Not really sure how to resolve this, other than through raw power.
2. Handling:
I still have a bit of understeer, and I think it can be corrected with a larger sway (24mm). I have my endlinks on the front now, and they add a notable amount of control. i can only imagine what the sway will add. I'm adding on a 25mm Tribeca sway, as it fits and cost $60. Can't beat that.
3. Suspension:
I'm still on hold for the suspension. I have the entire Koni/GroupN/donors sitting on the floor at the shop except the RCE camber plates. The guys at RCE have me on the list for the next batch, so it's just a matter of time.
4. Alignment:
I need a good alignment. I've settled on -2 front/-1.5 rear, 0 toe around based on suggestions from the guru's. Once I wear my current tires on the 17x7's they will be getting dressed in harder r-compounds.
5. Braking:
I did not have any issues this time, which I think is directly tied to the new tires. I do have a set of WRX rotors/Caliper brackets that need to be installed (but are on hold after some ambiguity regarding the caliper ordered from a retailer). I also have a set of pads HP+ pads that need to go on . This will up my rotor size 2cm, which should help with heat dissipation. I also have all the fixings to install a set of brake ducts, which again should help with the braking. ATE Superblue is also on hold until I get the caliper issues sorted. Hopefully I can get this settled soon, as I would like the new brakes up front.
5. Power
I'm hurting for it. I'm doing my best not to alter the engine, as there is more I can do that will make bigger differences first. When I do start equal length header-hiflow cat-2.25 midpipe-sti axleback (axleback makes negligable gains for the cost. Also Cold air intake, carbon driveshaft (-25# of rotational mass=+25 free hp), lightweight pulley, Cobb cams, and the remaining engine mounting harder for truer power transfer. Which means…
6. Weight reduction:
I know this won’t do much, but 100# is still 100#. WRX Al hood vs the steel RS. Lightweight front bumper beam, eliminate rear for track events. All sound deadening (I just remover the rear deadening and tar this morning. My hands are torn to isht though, so I need to let them heal before I attack the front end of the car.
7. Aerodynamics:
Need to get STI Underbody paneling, cusco rear diffuser mounting bar. I already removed the roof rails already. With this being a wagon I don’t really have a lot of options for front air damns.
Driving:
Major points:
1. Some people have more money than talent. Case in point, the guy with the M3 that wouldn’t get out of the way, and the 5 guys (of 13) that spun themselves off the track.
2. Road debris from spin-off coming back onto the track is bad, especially when located in the apex of the second fastest corner on the track.
3. Losing the back end at 70 is exciting, yet scary (see fore mentioned debris)
4. AWD when side-ways at 70 makes you feel like Peter Solberg. Steer in full lock, more gas.
5. Heel-toe is hard, and I need more practice rev-matching.
6. Slower is fast. Slower is faster. Slower is faster. Exit speed means everything.
I’m hoping to go to Laguna Seca or Infineon for my next day out. It could be interesting as they both have pretty serious elevation changes which might pose a notable issue for my ability to carry speed.
I'm Karting at least once a week and have made it into the 99th percentile at our local race track for all three courses, so I'm getting better. I still have not done any timed lap sessions in the Subie however, so I do not have a baseline to measure against. As much as I would like to get one, I have other things that need attention first. I might be able to convince the g/f to get me one for my b-day.
Beyond that I need to get a full harness for the worst case scenario. IT helps keep me planted as well, so it does have a dual effect. With that comes a harness bar. Week before the trackday prep is getting tedious now. I am able to pull ~100# before I go, and it has a noticeable handling benefit, but damn it's time consuming. Can't wait until I have another car so I can just gut this one.
I'll have pics of current status tonight. New wheels, no roofrails, sti seats. Most of the work it hidden as it's suspension or hidden weightloss however.
Slower IS faster. There really is no better advice for cornering in a car IMHO...enter slow, leave fast.
Why haven't you boosted it yet? SCCA classification?
And karting is a blast, I just wish it didn't cost almost as much as taking my car out to the track to do.
I was able to take my car out onto the MMP track for a couple laps by pure chance and it really revealed how awful my summer rubber and suspension is. Still hoping for that Rocco...
Why haven't you boosted it yet? SCCA classification?
And karting is a blast, I just wish it didn't cost almost as much as taking my car out to the track to do.
I was able to take my car out onto the MMP track for a couple laps by pure chance and it really revealed how awful my summer rubber and suspension is. Still hoping for that Rocco...
Not boosting. I like the N/A powercurve better, that and *if I were to eventually sell this, I can swap everything less engine work to the WRX/STI. Same handling +100/175 hp is pretty good for me.
tha and I like my cars reliable. I can get an adtl 35whp +25 usable hp (c/f driveshaft) with my projected build from the engine alone. I'll probably pick up a few more from wight reduction and aero work. That and I run 87octane pump gas, works for me.
tha and I like my cars reliable. I can get an adtl 35whp +25 usable hp (c/f driveshaft) with my projected build from the engine alone. I'll probably pick up a few more from wight reduction and aero work. That and I run 87octane pump gas, works for me.
a driveshaft does not give more wheel horsepower, put down the pipe. A larger front sway will increase understeer although it will let you preserve what precious camber you have. You won't be able to get -2.0 until after the plates. Finally, it's not surprising that even the winter tires you have on now 
have more grip than re92s. Going with daily driven RA-1s next?
(all your misinformation and subie ricer fantasies aside, good on you for karting and making it out to the track)
have more grip than re92s. Going with daily driven RA-1s next?(all your misinformation and subie ricer fantasies aside, good on you for karting and making it out to the track)
I'm very aware that I will not hit -2 until I have plates, which is why I have stock numbers currently and the rest of the suspension is sitting on the floor or the shop.
The driveshaft will not add hp, I am aware of this, but it will free up hp being used to spin the heavy steel DS. This will allow better throttle control and more effective use of what I have. Not "adding" per say, but allowing more usage of what I have. 25# of rotational mass from the driveline will make a notable improvement in what I have. (I was dumbing it down for the massess)
The large sway, if not paired with a larger rear bar, an increase in understeer at the limit. Currently have a 20mm rear and will be increasing based on the handling changes I notice. Upside: Faster turn-in response. Camber curve improvement thus resulting in higher levels of grip, despite the car understeering a bit more at the limit. The limit is pushed higher by the addition of the bar, hence saying "It understeers less."+ Better overall transition ability.
I'm no longer on the winter tires, I have low-level summer tires that I am trying to wear down.
Not ricer fantasies. If they were I'd have a wing and cannon by now.
The driveshaft will not add hp, I am aware of this, but it will free up hp being used to spin the heavy steel DS. This will allow better throttle control and more effective use of what I have. Not "adding" per say, but allowing more usage of what I have. 25# of rotational mass from the driveline will make a notable improvement in what I have. (I was dumbing it down for the massess)
The large sway, if not paired with a larger rear bar, an increase in understeer at the limit. Currently have a 20mm rear and will be increasing based on the handling changes I notice. Upside: Faster turn-in response. Camber curve improvement thus resulting in higher levels of grip, despite the car understeering a bit more at the limit. The limit is pushed higher by the addition of the bar, hence saying "It understeers less."+ Better overall transition ability.
I'm no longer on the winter tires, I have low-level summer tires that I am trying to wear down.
Not ricer fantasies. If they were I'd have a wing and cannon by now.