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Angry’s 2023 AT Thru Hike

AngryMetalsmith

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Day 41

10 miles from Mountain Harbor Hostel to Slide Hollow tentsite.

Stayed at the hostel until 11:00am washing and drying my rain jacket in an attempt to re-activate the water proof coating. It didn’t work.

Having another massive breakfast in my belly and a late start made for some slow hiking. But passing the 400 mile mark put a big smile on my face.

Was going to stay at the first shelter to avoid the rain but learned that there was a group of 26 kids heading that way. There weren’t too many camping options unless I wanted to hike in the dark. Stopped at a spot called Slide Hollow and made camp. Was the only one there and it rained some that night. Not a torrential downpour fortunately.

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AngryMetalsmith

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Day 42

15 miles from Slide Hollow to Black Bear Resort and Hostel.

I had planned on spending the night at Black Bear and drying out some gear from all the rain. As I was walking down the road to the hostel the owner pulled up next to me in the van with two friends, Togo and Owl, in the back. They kidnapped me and forced me to eat massive amounts of food at a Chinese Buffet. Linda, the owner, is a trip. She’s funny and drives a minivan like a downhiller late for timed practice. Scared the others a bit but I was in the back giggling.



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AngryMetalsmith

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Day 43

9 miles from Black Bear to Boots Off Hostel.

I was hiking this day with Togo and Owl, a couple who were also thru hiking. We had all wanted to check out the famous Boots Off Hostel and get a cold drink a snack.

Visiting the hostels has become one of my favorite things about thru hiking. Each one has its own flavor. Most are warm, friendly and inviting. Which is what a tired hiker needs. If I have been getting rained on for days it can get pretty tough to deal with. And the promise of a dry bed and a hot shower can be highly motivating when getting close to a hostel.

But this place was on right off trail and worth a look at. We met the very cool manager, Lucky Moon. There were a few people hanging out on the patio as we enjoyed our snacks. It didn’t take long to decide to stay there for the night. There was no rain in the forecast so we all tented.

They have an outdoor shower that looks like the jankiest pos you’ve ever seen. There’s a galvanized bucket with holes in it, a hot line, and a cold line that you have to mix. Lucky Moon said you “shower in the rain”. I thought what the hell is this, but it turned out to be one of the best showers I’ve had on trail.

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AngryMetalsmith

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Day 44

16 miles from Boots Off Hostel to Iron Mountain Shelter.

A group of friends that I had been hiking around, Goldstah and Megaman, Togo and Owl decided to try aqua blazing where you use a kayak to paddle on a lake, skipping ahead on the trail. This would supposedly put them ahead of me by the end of the day. So off I went by myself but not before I got to enjoy a cup of coffee, a banana, a donut and then got to poop on a porcelain flush toilet. Truly amazing when you’ve been living in the woods for over a month. Great start to the day. Didn’t take a lot of pics after Lake Watauga because it rained most of the day.

As I was hiking along I heard the sound of a tree falling and was able to catch a glimpse of a bear running away. Noisy they are.

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AngryMetalsmith

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Day 45

16 miles from Iron Mountain shelter to Abington Gap Shelter.

The terrain was nearly identical to yesterday’s with fairly smooth trail and easy grade climbs for the most part. Was easy to keep a fast pace despite raining all day. The night before I stayed in the shelter to get out of the rain and did at the next shelter as well. It can get very miserable being wet all the time.

As I approached the shelter I saw a large group of people gathered at the picnic table. It was both couples who had gone aqua blazing. I was glad to see them and looked forward to camping with all of them for the night. Their trip had not panned out as expected. They were exhausted and all sun burned from being out on the water for so long.

Some tented and the rest slept in the shelter. We were all tired and turned in around 7:00. I had just gotten my gear sorted and was getting in my sleeping bag to warm my cold wet feet when the storm blew in. Going to try to upload a short video so you can hear how incredibly loud it is in a shelter when it rains hard.

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AngryMetalsmith

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Day 46

11 miles from Abington Gap shelter to Damascus.

edit:

I was hiking with Togo and Owl right behind me when we saw a bear in front of us on the trail. Both myself and the bear were walking with our heads down. At about 20’ we both saw each other. The bear looked up, turned and bolted down the hill. I yelled, “oh shit, bear!” The whole encounter lasted a millisecond, but it was pretty cool.


Had an easy half day into town for a zero at Broken Fiddle Hostel. First stop though was the Damascus Diner for some hot town food. They have outside seating for dirty hikers. Nom, nom, nom. Checked into the hostel, took a shower, did laundry, dried my tent, then went to the local outfitter and bought a new rain jacket.

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AngryMetalsmith

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Day 47

0 miles

Took a day off to clean and repair gear, do resupply and talk to my parents.

Togo and Owl said their goodbyes the night before. They decided to head home for a while. Goldstah and Megaman stayed the night and the three of us went to breakfast then they gave me a ride to the grocery store. It was fun hanging out with them. They too headed home.

Tomorrow I head back to the trail and towards Grayson Highlands. Hopefully the sunny weather sticks around for a while.
 
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AT turtle

Chimp
Jun 14, 2023
13
19
Thank you. Love your updates. I'm following along in my AT guide book. Lol
I took off air b and b and put on owning a hostel to my real estate goals. I also joined the gym and running inclines and doing stairs. I will not be called turtle anymore
Found a cool tattoo idea though. To have the turtle going toward the AT symbol
 

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AngryMetalsmith

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Day 48

16 miles from Broken Fiddle Hostel in Damascus to Lost Mountain Shelter.

Had to go to the Post Office to mail home some extra gear to save a pound on my pack weight in the morning. So got started a little later than usual.

The walk through town merges with the Virginia Creeper Trail for a while and is visible for quite some time up trail. It’s a famous rails to trail attraction that provides an endless stream of tourists on bikes cruising a cinder path at a slight downgrade. Countless businesses rent bikes and provide shuttles in the area.

Not long after leaving the Creeper and climbing further up the next mountain I saw another bear on the trail about 40 feet in front of me. He turned and ran on down the trail. That makes bear number five.

It was a little after 7:00pm when I arrived at the shelter. There was no one else there. Which is unusual but starting to become the norm. Previously, shelters were occupied by hikers. Some tenting, some in the shelter, but all gathered at the fire ring or picnic table. Since it was late (hiker bedtime is 8:00) I decided to stay in the shelter and not pitch my tent even though there was no rain in the forecast.

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AngryMetalsmith

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Day 49

12 miles from Lost Mountain Shelter to Thomas Knob Shelter.

Was planning on doing an 18 mile day that would put me almost all the way through Grayson Highlands and Mt. Rogers area. Started out fine, but at some point I rolled my left foot again and it started to slow me down. Motivation took a vacation and was no where to be found. Wound up stopping short at Thomas Knob Shelter. I would have preferred to camp 0.7 miles North at Rhododendron Gap since I’ve camped there 8 times during training hikes. However it was going to rain heavy that night.

As I was getting set up in the shelter a lone female hiker showed up. A middle school teacher from Colorado. She too had not seen many others out that day. Ordinarily Grayson Highlands is crowded. But this time it was like everyone just vanished. Most campsites were empty and our food containers were the only ones in the bear box for the night.


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AngryMetalsmith

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Day 50

16 miles from Thomas Knob Shelter to Hurricane Mountain Shelter.

My foot was feeling better but still a little sore. Was able to get a good pace going after taking a few pics along the way. This section would take me past where all of my training hikes had been on the AT. So I would get to see something new.

At Rhododendron Gap I past the 500 mile marker. Can you believe it, 500 miles ? As big of a distance as it is, it’s not quite a fourth of the trail. Empowering yet simultaneously humbling.

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AngryMetalsmith

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Day 51

19 miles from Hurricane Mountain Shelter to Partnership Shelter.

Cel coverage had been a little better and I was able to get the weather forecast while on trail. A massive thunderstorm was supposed to dump 1-2 inches of rain where I was headed. And once again I was in the shelter by myself so I set my alarm for 5:00am. Was all packed up and ready to roll at 6:10. On trail before the birds started chirping. Had to use my headlamp for a while until it was light enough in the green tunnel.

Sometime before 7:00 I heard some splashing in a stream below the trail. When I turned I saw two, very small, bear cubs run up a tree. I paused for a second but resumed my normal pace as I searched for moma bear. This could easily become an extremely dangerous situation if I got between her and her cubs or perceived as even being slightly threatening. She was down slope on the other side of her treed cubs. Kept moving. That makes eight bears seen.

My foot was once again starting to bother me but I kept pushing. I had to get to the shelter before the storm hit. I could see it from the ridge line, a large dark mass that just sat there pounding whatever was unfortunate to be underneath. I was less than two miles away when the leading edge caught up to me. It was light rain at first but turned into a monsoon shortly afterwards. Made it 19 miles to the famous shelter in 9.5 hours. There I searched for the land line to call a hostel as there is no cel coverage. Turns out the phone is at the visitors center a short walk away. When I got there the center was closed and the storm had made the landline inoperable. Made several attempts to contact hotels, shuttle drivers and a hostel. The only one I could reach was a taxi service who did send a driver. He took me into Marion, VA and to a hotel with a Mexican restaurant down the street. Really thought for a while that I was going to be stranded at the shelter until the next day. Or have to hitchhike in a thunderstorm.

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AngryMetalsmith

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After much consideration I decided to get off trail to attend to my foot. This was a very difficult decision. Going back to the real world was not on my agenda at all. But when combined with an injury, the sparse number of other hikers and the increasing difficulty in acquiring goods and services required by thru hikers it became obvious that continuing would not have been smart.

Just trying to rent a car to drive two hours to get home proved nearly impossible. There were no available vehicles in the area. The next option was the Tri-Cities Airport, 60+ miles the opposite direction. Tried several shuttle drivers that were recommended by a hostel owner but no one was available. Called a cab company and they wanted $175 to drive me to the airport. Even called Uhaul who only had 20’ trucks to rent.

Next I thought I would start calling hostels in Damascus, the previous town stop, and see if anyone had any suggestions. Called Broken Fiddle Hostel first and Treehouse, the manager, offered to drive me home since it was so close and it was slow at the hostel. Caught him at the right time. He picked me up about an hour later and we headed back to North Carolina. Would rather have a hiker get the money and not some corporate rental agency. Dude saved my butt. Huge relief.

Tomorrow morning I have a consultation and get x-rays at an orthopedic clinic. Good thing I have been a frequent flyer with them and was still in the system and didn’t need a referral.

In my heart I am still on the trail. I don’t want to be here. This is going to be a difficult transition back that I am not quite ready for. Ooof.

Thank you all for your encouragement, donations and just being your Ridemonkey selves. This has been an amazing journey and the adventure of a lifetime. I am not done with this trail and it’s not done with me. Already thinking about how I can improve for next year.

Total miles hiked on the AT: 534.1

Gnarly hiker feet:
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rideit

Bob the Builder
Aug 24, 2004
23,424
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In the cleavage of the Tetons
Boo hiss, I want my money back!

Just kidding, very sorry to hear this. I too am struggling with accepting some new realities of how hard I can ride now and in the future. You are making a good choice, as hard as that is to swallow right now.
You gonna get some Carolina BBQ first?
 

6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
16,056
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Nothing says you have to do it all in one go. Make plans to head back there and do another 50 day chunk in the future!

So far I'm 12 years into my attempt to ride all of the bike legal sections of the Colorado Trail :D
 

AngryMetalsmith

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Boo hiss, I want my money back!

Just kidding, very sorry to hear this. I too am struggling with accepting some new realities of how hard I can ride now and in the future. You are making a good choice, as hard as that is to swallow right now.
You gonna get some Carolina BBQ first?

Thanks. Forgive me as my cell coverage has been extremely poor the past seven weeks and I have not been keeping up with the monkey. Did something happen to you, illness, crash, demonic possession, etc. ?
 

AngryMetalsmith

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next time get real boots for your feet not those damn trail runners that offer zero support and protection
Nah man, that’s just the roll of the dice. Lighter gear so we can move faster. There’s no way I could hit 3-4 mph in boots or hiking shoes let alone 16-18 miles per day with a 2+mph average. And sometimes when I’m all pissed off because I’ve been rained on for a week straight I will run down some UCI World Cup DH looking rocks and roots in a thunderstorm. Definitely need to be light on my feet.
 

AngryMetalsmith

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Nothing says you have to do it all in one go. Make plans to head back there and do another 50 day chunk in the future!

So far I'm 12 years into my attempt to ride all of the bike legal sections of the Colorado Trail :D
Yeah I know, but a thru hike is the goal.

Now that I know a whole lot more about the trail and its associated culture I will most likely take a few short trips this Fall or whenever my foot heals. Can’t imagine not going.
 

Toshi

Harbinger of Doom
Oct 23, 2001
38,468
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Thanks. Forgive me as my cell coverage has been extremely poor the past seven weeks and I have not been keeping up with the monkey. Did something happen to you, illness, crash, demonic possession, etc. ?
some out of control teenage girl crashed into him while he was climbing, iirc, and he cracked a few ribs. + he's old and he's shoulder's all old, too, anyway
 

Full Trucker

Frikkin newb!!!
Feb 26, 2003
10,573
7,688
Exit, CO
Thanks for bringing us along on your journey, @AngryMetalsmith — I believe you when you say it's not over. I'm simultaneously sad that you are leaving the trail but also happy that you are making the call to take care of yourself. Anyone who's been in a similar position knows it can be a tough decision to make.
 

rideit

Bob the Builder
Aug 24, 2004
23,424
11,578
In the cleavage of the Tetons
Thanks. Forgive me as my cell coverage has been extremely poor the past seven weeks and I have not been keeping up with the monkey. Did something happen to you, illness, crash, demonic possession, etc. ?
Toshi covered, mostly. But yeah, the last few years I was riding way over my head, and that has exacted a terrible toll on my body. I had moments of getting really quite fast, but ended up on the ground, into a tree, on on some rocks more often than not, sadly. I have been trying to hang with folks fifteen years my junior, doing enduros, etc. But it’s just not realistic unless I was otherwise a world class athlete in strength and fitness, which I’m not.
Oh, well.
What’s next?
Birdwatching?
LOL.
But I’m still going to rip a Chimpex tomorrow, just not in hyperdrive.

TL, DR:
Im getting old, and facing it.
 

AngryMetalsmith

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Toshi covered, mostly. But yeah, the last few years I was riding way over my head, and that has exacted a terrible toll on my body. I had moments of getting really quite fast, but ended up on the ground, into a tree, on on some rocks more often than not, sadly. I have been trying to hang with folks fifteen years my junior, doing enduros, etc. But it’s just not realistic unless I was otherwise a world class athlete in strength and fitness, which I’m not.
Oh, well.
What’s next?
Birdwatching?
LOL.
But I’m still going to rip a Chimpex tomorrow, just not in hyperdrive.

TL, DR:
Im getting old, and facing it.
Oh how I can relate. I have to train my ass off to be able to hike up and down several mountains 10 hours a day six days a week. But kids less than half my age can go from the couch to the trail like it’s nothing. I couldn’t imagine doing this in my mid sixties. Better get after while I still can.
 

binary visions

The voice of reason
Jun 13, 2002
22,103
1,153
NC
next time get real boots for your feet not those damn trail runners that offer zero support and protection
I usually find that "real boots" are nothing but an impediment when you're trying to knock out the better part of 20 miles or more in a day.

@AngryMetalsmith I hadn't commented before but was following your thru hike and noticed you starting GMTs so I figured something went awry. Glad you're taking care of yourself. Usually takes us most of the season before we're up over 500 miles of trail time, let alone <2 months!

I'm sure it must feel incredibly frustrating to not be able to complete your thru-hike, but I hope you feel a lot of pride in what you did. It's no small feat.
 

AngryMetalsmith

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I usually find that "real boots" are nothing but an impediment when you're trying to knock out the better part of 20 miles or more in a day.

@AngryMetalsmith I hadn't commented before but was following your thru hike and noticed you starting GMTs so I figured something went awry. Glad you're taking care of yourself. Usually takes us most of the season before we're up over 500 miles of trail time, let alone <2 months!

I'm sure it must feel incredibly frustrating to not be able to complete your thru-hike, but I hope you feel a lot of pride in what you did. It's no small feat.
Lol, yeah still on thru hiker hours. I really miss getting up with the birds. Been riding a little bit mostly just eating and sleeping though.

I talked with another more experienced hiker, Jack Rabbit, about what a massive undertaking it is just to start a thru hike. Some of us take years to train, prepare and save money. Then there’s the logistics of getting one’s home life in order and travel itinerary. And even if you show up in your best physical condition possible and all your gear dialed you still have a 75-80% chance of failure because the AT is that difficult. So for a few of us that little triangular hang tag with the AT symbol means something. A little badge of trail honor if you will. Treehouse told me not to remove it until I get next year’s tag.

However, even as I type this I am haunted by not continuing. When I was in the hotel contemplating getting off trail I was already planning next year’s attempt and how I could improve. Your post reminds me to be proud of my accomplishment but I have difficulty looking back as I am focused on the next summit. 2024, the year of the smith !
 

AngryMetalsmith

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Currently going back through this thread and upgrading all the pics to better resolution. Couldn't tell out on the trail with just the iphone, but they looked really bad on a desktop.