bmw porn
- Thread starter xy9ine
- Start date
hey, thanks for all the comments guys...i'm located on the WESSSTTTTSIIIIIIIDDE!!!!!...pasadena, california to be exact...thats about 10min from L.A.
dude, come to think of it...the frame almost looks like it could glow in the dark....hahaha...maybe i won't need lights for nite riding..
i'll post more pics when its all built up
dude, come to think of it...the frame almost looks like it could glow in the dark....hahaha...maybe i won't need lights for nite riding..
i'll post more pics when its all built up
Awesome lfuorescent green colour i love the RL looks awesome.
Not to be cast aside, that park bike picture is also tits. I love the dark blue/anno gold combo it looks awesome.
Also great to see you got them dam rim brake tabs. I thought of getting those for mine while i had it but didnt have the patience to wait for one so i went disc all the way
Not to be cast aside, that park bike picture is also tits. I love the dark blue/anno gold combo it looks awesome.
Also great to see you got them dam rim brake tabs. I thought of getting those for mine while i had it but didnt have the patience to wait for one so i went disc all the way
Finally completed my winter project. Rides sweet. Too bad we're expecting a foot of snow this weekend.
Here's the spec:
Parkbike #214
06 Marzocchi 66VF2 tuned to 90mm travel by Nemesis Project
Chris King headset
Sun MTX 24
Hadley 20mm Front
Hadley SS Rear
Maxxis Holy Rollers
Avid BB7 rear brake
Brooklyn handlebar, stem. saddle, barends
Thomson seatpost
ODI Ruffian grips
Profile 175mm cranks and Evolution bottom bracket
Profile Imperial chainring 33 tooth (33x14 gearing)
KMC 710SL kool chain
Huge thanks to Joe and Chris at BMW, Brad at Nemesis Project for the incredible fork, and Gerald at Racers Edge Cycle.
Cheers,
Dave
Here's the spec:
Parkbike #214
06 Marzocchi 66VF2 tuned to 90mm travel by Nemesis Project
Chris King headset
Sun MTX 24
Hadley 20mm Front
Hadley SS Rear
Maxxis Holy Rollers
Avid BB7 rear brake
Brooklyn handlebar, stem. saddle, barends
Thomson seatpost
ODI Ruffian grips
Profile 175mm cranks and Evolution bottom bracket
Profile Imperial chainring 33 tooth (33x14 gearing)
KMC 710SL kool chain
Huge thanks to Joe and Chris at BMW, Brad at Nemesis Project for the incredible fork, and Gerald at Racers Edge Cycle.
Cheers,
Dave
fricken sick
that is a nice looking park! i love the minty green RL too!
im most dissappointed that some of you strayed and are keeping the other bmw thread at the top. i think RM can handle only one. I expected it from seismic ...
carry on
carry on
Hey joel just curious but whats with the animosity between you and seismic?Jimmy_Pop said:im most dissappointed that some of you strayed and are keeping the other bmw thread at the top. i think RM can handle only one. I expected it from seismic ...
carry on
there is none.
did you get my email about that dude looking for hubz ?
did you get my email about that dude looking for hubz ?
cause you know, we are putting the new cover sheets on the tps reports.
yyyeah.
yyyeah.
So I'm getting a race link and was wondering how to get the shock set up and what weight spring to get.I'm 65kg and go fairly large,should I go with the setting that Brooklyn would suggest or have people found that on the soft side?
Thanks for any responses.
Thanks for any responses.
Brooklyns will generally feel softer as a rule of thumb I think, but that is usually seen as an advantage as the linkage makes the suspension rate perfectly progressive, allowing one to run a fairly softer setup without much risk of bottoming out. If you're doing huge gaps and drops though it might be a good idea to bump up your spring rate one level up I guess... I don't know i don't do big jumps
When you order your frame Doc will set you up. Just tell him yo weight and riding style and he will get the shock set up right for you. Doc and Craig from Avalanche know the bike setup real well
Millar said:Where was the picture of the rider dropping off the roof taken? That is one of the best looking pictures I've ever seen.patineto said:yeap,,I can see those advantages, the bikes feature a very smart down to earth design, actually I collect a bunch of fotos of them On This Gallery if you guys have some more i be happy to safe them there for everybody to see..
Nice colection of photos there, I see my bikes on several pages!
I haven't posted on Ridemonkey for ages so here's a few pics to start...you may have seen some of these on Bklyn uk site.
Oh ok.Jimmy_Pop said:
No never got that email. did ya send it to dropthebreak@hotmail.com ? Oh and i appreciate the referrals by the way
It's from the "shed drop" in the Kona Bike Park in Les Gets France
stgil888 said:
sweet pic sverre. will surely bring a tear to ady's eye, with his bike stolen and all. did you get to check out that link i posted on uk to alex rankin's website. the footage from les gets is spectacular. i can't wait to get there, just hoping i can work enough hours this winter to do cover the trip for two this summer.Sverre said:Les Gets is so much fun.
Here's Ady stylin' it at the Pleny:
LES GETS OR BUST!!!!!
ya, don't forget that in France, when you ride DH with a baguette under ur arm, you go faster.
I found a pretty cheap hub for someone needing a rear hub or maybe build a backup rear wheel for their Racelink
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144644
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144644
Please help answer these questions to do with a racelink as I can't be arsed doing all the searching. Thanks in advance.
BB axle length?
Will the Profile axle work with Eastern cranks?
Any reason why Eastern TI cranks won't work?
Is the Eastern TI BB better than the Profile one?
Wich is lighter?
What gearing (front) is the equivalent to a 38tooth?
What can you do to run a smaller lowest sprocket(chain wheel)and still achieve same gearing?
Alluminium sprockets from who?
TI " " " " " " " ' " " " " " ' ' ' " " '?
BB axle length?
Will the Profile axle work with Eastern cranks?
Any reason why Eastern TI cranks won't work?
Is the Eastern TI BB better than the Profile one?
Wich is lighter?
What gearing (front) is the equivalent to a 38tooth?
What can you do to run a smaller lowest sprocket(chain wheel)and still achieve same gearing?
Alluminium sprockets from who?
TI " " " " " " " ' " " " " " ' ' ' " " '?
To change gear ratio, the only chainwheel you change is the left hand drive chainwheel. I dont know the tooth count formulas and wont pretend to know. the stock 28tooth chainwheel I find is easy enough to pedal around for urban (12-34 cass) and i really like it for downhilling but if you want a better urban chainwheel, get a 25 tooth. I've got a 25T Ti Profile that i have used in the past. i finally went back to the bmw 28t chainwheel full time. the Ti proifile is much thinner than the bmw and i have to add ghetto looking spacers. and you have to re-shim the jackshaft chainwheels.
The stock profile axle is 6.25" The combo of the bmw chainwheel, the profile axle and all the aluminum crank spacers look and work very nice. you will get differing opinions about using the longer 6.875" Ti profile spindle. For me, I could not get the spacing to work. It takes alot to space out the extra 5/8". Not only space the cranks, but space the upper jackshaft wheels. Plus, i found little difference in weight between the longer Ti spindle and all the extra spacers. So any weight savings was not worth the ghetto spacing treatment. Again, you get various opinions but i didnt like having one crank arm near the rear swing arm and one crank with 1" of clearance. you cannot evenly space the cranks either because you can move the upper jackshaft wheels out that far. Youre left with a healthy dose of slop if you try to fit a Ti spindle. I like it stock.
As far as all your questions about the eastern arms, no one will know. that has not been done (probably for a reason) Are they available as LHD ? the bmw BB is your only option.
hope this helps. you'll figure out alot of these questions one you have your new frame. congrats !
The stock profile axle is 6.25" The combo of the bmw chainwheel, the profile axle and all the aluminum crank spacers look and work very nice. you will get differing opinions about using the longer 6.875" Ti profile spindle. For me, I could not get the spacing to work. It takes alot to space out the extra 5/8". Not only space the cranks, but space the upper jackshaft wheels. Plus, i found little difference in weight between the longer Ti spindle and all the extra spacers. So any weight savings was not worth the ghetto spacing treatment. Again, you get various opinions but i didnt like having one crank arm near the rear swing arm and one crank with 1" of clearance. you cannot evenly space the cranks either because you can move the upper jackshaft wheels out that far. Youre left with a healthy dose of slop if you try to fit a Ti spindle. I like it stock.
As far as all your questions about the eastern arms, no one will know. that has not been done (probably for a reason) Are they available as LHD ? the bmw BB is your only option.
hope this helps. you'll figure out alot of these questions one you have your new frame. congrats !
Thanks mate,very helpful. Why is the Profile Ti axle not the correct length?
The Ti Eastern stuff was mentioned in this thread I think.
Shoot me a message if you want to sell that TI25tooth,I'm in Oz though so you'd have to send it.
Why can't you change the top or right chainwheel? Do they foul on something or because of the drive/mount shape?
How longs the brake arm if I wanna chase down a carbon brake therapy one?
The Ti Eastern stuff was mentioned in this thread I think.
Shoot me a message if you want to sell that TI25tooth,I'm in Oz though so you'd have to send it.
Why can't you change the top or right chainwheel? Do they foul on something or because of the drive/mount shape?
How longs the brake arm if I wanna chase down a carbon brake therapy one?
Take the Ti Profile spindle to a machine shop and have them cut it, I did that for my Hitman. Took the Ti spindle from the Big Link and cut it down to fit.
I thought about that too Tony. But by having a machine shop turning down the spindle, you are losing splines at the same time. Didnt you have a problem with the splines not being long enought to slide the crank arm all the way down the spindle?Tonycalves said:
joel
Hmm.. I'm not sure cutting will work on the RL. I mesured my axel-splines, and found that the leftside splines would not be long enough after cutting. I got the Ti spindle sat up with 3 thin additional profile spacers. The right crank arm comes 6mm. further out than the left one. It's a bit, but no bid deal I hope. The setup saves 109g.
Weight saving is fun, yet soooo expensive
Weight saving is fun, yet soooo expensive
Ya I had plenty of spline.
Really can't wait to see how different your bike is in France this year Sverre!! Should be excellent!
Whats up all, Got my toothpaste racelink in the mail yesterday...in the process of setting her up. Wooooo hooooooo!!!!
There is a point to this post though..I was wondering for all you RL owners who are using Hayes disk brakes on your bike...which adapter do you use in the rear to make it compatible with an 8" rotor? Chris from BMW told me that I might need to use a front 8" adapter, is that true? Or willl my traditional rear 8" adapter be good enough?
Secondly, where do I find out what production # frame I have? Is it located on the frame or do I have to call BMW and ask them?
Thx
There is a point to this post though..I was wondering for all you RL owners who are using Hayes disk brakes on your bike...which adapter do you use in the rear to make it compatible with an 8" rotor? Chris from BMW told me that I might need to use a front 8" adapter, is that true? Or willl my traditional rear 8" adapter be good enough?
Secondly, where do I find out what production # frame I have? Is it located on the frame or do I have to call BMW and ask them?
Thx
I think the adapters still are the same adapters as for front. The serial # should be on the rear dropout. Someone dbl check me on the adapters though...
Oh yeah, congrats
Oh yeah, congrats
congrats leDude. im soo jealous of your frame - it is soo nice.
you use a 8" IS front adapter on the rear of your racelink.
http://photobucket.com/albums/v626/Jimmy-pop/?action=view¤t=floater-closeup.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v626/Jimmy-pop/rear-floater.jpg
you use a 8" IS front adapter on the rear of your racelink.
http://photobucket.com/albums/v626/Jimmy-pop/?action=view¤t=floater-closeup.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v626/Jimmy-pop/rear-floater.jpg
leDude said:
Shortbus said:I think the adapters still are the same adapters as for front. The serial # should be on the rear dropout. Someone dbl check me on the adapters though...
Oh yeah, congrats
Just Frame Numbers will do.. I don't think there enough to have a proper 'serial' number