[DirtBag]

Recently I have been contemplating building a new 24". I love my Mob to death but I think I want something slightly smaller for park and street. The Mob is awesome on pretty much any trails but indoor and at parks it is big. Especially at some of the parks near me where everything is built for a 20".

I was thinking rigid and a cruiser style bar to have about the same front end height as my Mob. Then I am wondering if I will hate a rigid front end on a 24". I tried a rigid on my Mob and it lasted about 2 minutes before I put my Argyle back on. But I think a lot of that was A2C differences and I could have used a 3" riser bar to make up some of that.

It seems like most are running a sussy up front with a nice 3" bar. I have a good option to get a newish Molly frame and Gold Label for cheap.

 

[A Grove]

PM'd you... ^

 

[DirtBag]

PM'd you... ^

PM'd back.

 

[cmc]

Recently I have been contemplating building a new 24". I love my Mob to death but I think I want something slightly smaller for park and street. The Mob is awesome on pretty much any trails but indoor and at parks it is big. Especially at some of the parks near me where everything is built for a 20".

I was thinking rigid and a cruiser style bar to have about the same front end height as my Mob. Then I am wondering if I will hate a rigid front end on a 24". I tried a rigid on my Mob and it lasted about 2 minutes before I put my Argyle back on. But I think a lot of that was A2C differences and I could have used a 3" riser bar to make up some of that.

It seems like most are running a sussy up front with a nice 3" bar. I have a good option to get a newish Molly frame and Gold Label for cheap.

the Nemesis Project 3.25" weezy bars feel very nice on my molly.

i say a good stiff spring short travel DJ fork is the way to go. if you can get a gold label, definitely grab it.

true, dudes are building some sick 24" mtbmx setups with rigid-mtb forks . . . but, if you're gonna do that, you'd save a ton of money going with a regular 24" bmx cruiser.

 

[A Grove]

the Nemesis Project 3.25" weezy bars feel very nice on my molly.

i say a good stiff spring short travel DJ fork is the way to go. if you can get a gold label, definitely grab it.

true, dudes are building some sick 24" mtbmx setups with rigid-mtb forks . . . but, if you're gonna do that, you'd save a ton of money going with a regular 24" bmx cruiser.

The problem is (follow cru's thread...) There is nothing out there 24 cruiser with modern geo. They're long ass-ends, and awkward race geo leaves them behind in the park/tech/tight stuff. Until someone hits the market with something the fully rigid folks desire, MTBMX w/ a rigid is the only option.

 

[A Grove]

Couldn't agree more with the weezy's feelin awesome. I love mine..

and not sure why, yet again, the edit button is giving me an error!!

 

[DirtBag]

the Nemesis Project 3.25" weezy bars feel very nice on my molly.

i say a good stiff spring short travel DJ fork is the way to go. if you can get a gold label, definitely grab it.

Exactly. In fact I just did. I got this coming (sorry A-Grove)...

I am not keeping the bar, stem, post or seat (selling) but the frame fork and headset will be the start. Plan to build the rest for my winter project.

 

[A Grove]

No worries. Just wanted to give ya a heads-up, anyhow. Molly's are solid and if I didn't have the abilities to build my own.. I'd have ordered one already.

 

[cmc]

The problem is (follow cru's thread...) There is nothing out there 24 cruiser with modern geo. They're long ass-ends, and awkward race geo leaves them behind in the park/tech/tight stuff. Until someone hits the market with something the fully rigid folks desire, MTBMX w/ a rigid is the only option.

yeah i've been following cru's thread.... i would like to see some more innovative bmx cruisers as well.

but they are getting better--and they're really not that far off right now. i rode a WTP "Avenue" recently and i think it handles very quick.

honestly, even though the rigid 24mtbmx builds i have seen are rad... there's still something kinda odd (to my ex-bmx brain) about a 24" wheel in a rigid fork designed for a 26" wheel on a frame designed for suspension. to me, being able to run a suspension fork on what otherwise is an amazing bmx park bike is what makes the mollys and fallguys so rad.

 

[A Grove]

Agreed... For me, I like running sus, but also like rigid at times as well. Like when I know I'm headin to a buddies pump-track, it'd be super nice to swap on a rigid, and loose a few lbs as well (instead of just locking the pike out...). And having the pike for trails/jumps I'm new to is what I like the idea of...

 

[DirtBag]

So I posted this on a couple of other boards, but you guys seem to know this well.

I am working on the build list and I have a couple of questions that maybe some other owners can help with.

I have a 22t Tree splined chainring that I want to utilize on this build. Currently on my Mob I am running 24/12 with 26" wheels. I like the gear ratio of 2:1 and want to keep that on this build. But I am not sure how the same ratio transfers to a smaller wheel diameter as far as feel.

I am planning to use Profile cranks, Tree splined 22t chainring and a Profile rear hub with a fixed driver. With that here are the questions on the chainline:

1. Is anyone out there running a super small ring up front like a 22t? Just looking at the yoke on the frame I am not sure if a 22/11 set-up will cause the chain to hit the yoke of the chainstays on the frame.

2. With the Spanish BB do both cups (l/r) need to be there to press against the bearing? On a Euro BB I can use the spacers that come with the cranks and they can go directly against the bearing. But due to my ignorance with Spanish BB, do the cones need to go against the bearing or can a stock spacer be used. One reason is the Tree splined chainring is fairly thick and may not be able to be put on with the drive side bearing cone AND keep the proper chainline.

3. Also I am debating on getting an 11t one piece driver or going with the 12t that has the lockring style driver. That sort of lines up with if I can use the 22t chainring and if the chainline will work. The 1-piece drivers seem to be further in the center of the hub. But I should be able to negate that with spacers up front.

4. What size axle for Profiles do I need. Again I am not familiar with Spanish BB. The yoke looks wide near the BB and my initial thought is a 6" axle to make sure the cranks clear the stays and I have room for the splined chainring. I am getting a Ti axle so I would like to get it right...

Not sure if these questions make any sense. if anyone has some close up shots of the BB area with cranks mounted that would be cool. Of course most of this will be answered once I get the frame but I want to get everything ordered now... I have been working the phones and the latest was Profile and they have everything in stock..

 

[A Grove]

By 22mm tree chainring you mean 22 TOOTH, correct?

also...

A/B*C=55

A=ft. tooth count
B=rr. tooth count
C=wheelsize (dia. in inches)

simple gear-inch calculator for any wheel size. They say around 55" is a good ratio, but 2-1 is actually more like 52".... I plan to run 25-11 on my 24" build. Right at around 54"

question numba 2...
you aren't required to use the fancy cone spacers. They look nicer, keep some dirt/water out, and hide the bearings, but beyond that, it serves the same purpose as a normal spacer. If you don't use it, you need to be aware of what is contacting the bearing and where.. IE. when clamped together, you need to make sure the only part of the bearing that is being contacted by the spacers/chainring/crank is on the inner race of the bearing (where the spindle goes "thru". But you still need the internal bearing spacers to keep from pre-loading the bearings.

hope that makes sense

 

[Bikael Molton]

2:1 is a painfully slow ratio on 26" unless you are using the bike for XC and climbing hills.

 

[A Grove]

on two-six... 2-1 is a very standard base point. I currently run 25/11, but started at 22/11 ... sits at 59" but I like the fact I can build tons of speed.

2-1 on two-fours would be insanely low.. 48".

 

[DirtBag]

Yes 22mm = 22t (now fixed)

Well a 2:1 on my 26" is absolutely perfect for what I do. In the park or at the local DJ I don't even really pedal. I whip up to speed and carry through.

But I was trying to determine what would "feel" the same on a 24" bike. Using the calculation a 22/10 x 24" would = 52.8 which is close to my 52.0 I have now. That is a lot better than a 48.0. Now I just have to see if the 22t is going to clear the yoke and chainstays with a 10t.

I think I get the BB question now. In theory the BB bearing is similar to a euro in that the contact point on the spindle is similar. For some reason I could not picture how the cones were and if they were similar to a euro cone. I am just thinking of 110 things right now and losing my mind..

 

[A Grove]

All BMX bearings operate under the same principles... Its just how they are attached to the frame that differs (beyond mid BB's being the only that can handle 22mm spindles.)

 

[t1maglio]

I have 27-10 on my Tonic. I love having something there when I need a quick quarter crank or full pedal when I'm riding.

 

[DirtBag]

I think i will order the 10t driver. That way I at least start off with a 52.8 and I can always go bigger up front if needed.

 

[A Grove]

whats the thickness of the chainstays on your molly? from the side-profile that is?

I was running 22-11 on my previous frame and the stays have a height of 1.25". Pretty tall... It cleared, but it was close. Hope that helps..

 

[DirtBag]

Unfortunately I have no idea. I have yet to get the frame in my hands. That is half of the battle trying to see if parts will work without having the frame. I need to get the frame and do some quick figuring to see if a 22/10 will work. Then I will order the parts based on that.

 

[A Grove]

Just wait till ya get the frame, then worry bout spec'in the parts. Only takes a few extra days to get parts after you order sure would suck to order a buncha parts and have 'em not work

 

[DirtBag]

Exactly. I work at a bike shop and I am going to EP the profile stuff. But I am going to bring the frame and 22t chainring to another friends BMX shop and check out the chainline using a stock profile hub. Our shope does not carry any BMX stuff. That way I know the 22/10 will or will not work before I order the parts.

I already priced out the hubs and cranks. Here is the plan:

Front - Profile SS mini in purple.
Rear - Profile rear 14mm with solid Ti axle, Ti nuts and 10t Ti driver. (yes I love Ti) in purple
Cranks - Profile 170mm, Spanish BB, Ti spindle and Ti bolts.

I am still working on spindle length. Not sure if I need 5.75" or 6". The rest of the build is straight forward and will be ordered tomorrow. A few purple parts to blend it all together..

 

[A Grove]

Man... I'm not sure a USED molly deserves such parts....

 

[DirtBag]

I hear you. Part of me wants to just get vanilla stuff and e done with it. But I really enjoy custom building stuff to the highest degree.

So you are running Weezy 3.25" correct? I am debating on those or the 2.6 street bar. I really want to have the same feel as my Mob or as close to it as possible. That will make switching between the 2 easier. Plus I am thinking a Profile stem since NemPro uses a 22.2mm clamp.

The Mob has a 80mm fork (similar to the GL on the Molly), an integrated headset using a tall top cap, zero rise Thomson stem and Deity Twenty14 bars. I am thinking with the taller headset on the Molly I should get the Weezy 3.25". But not sure... Man I love decisions.

 

[A Grove]

Well... over the mob you will be loosing roughly an inch in height by switching to 24's...

even with that being said, I would STILL run the weezy's if I were in your shoes. 3.25" on a two-six is TALL. But I LOVE how it feels. It was a little.. different at first, but manuals, b-hops, and the like are much more effortless now. But I don't think you can go wrong with either or.

And I hear ya on going all-out on builds... seeing those EP prices makes you wanna do it even more, doesnt it?

 

[Axis]

FYI 23t x 10t works on the molly perfect... slammed in the dropouts too. 22t x 10t will be too low of a gearing you will spin out all of the time. Also 22t x 10t will need a half link unless you want to run the axel as far back as possible in the drop outs. A longer cs will make the bike harder to manual and pop off of lips etc.

Also with that 22t tree... your only option is to go with a 9t driver. That will work nice. It looks like you have an older gen of the molly so the dropouts are longer than the newest gen. The smaller wheels 24 vs. 26 make a difference. a ratio of 2.3 is a good starting point just as 2.0 is to the 26 world. Hear me now believe me later 22x10 on a 24 is gonna $uck. That tree chainwheel is expensive the drivers are cheaper so I would go smaller to a 9t driver.

 

[Axis]

Well... over the mob you will be loosing roughly an inch in height by switching to 24's...

even with that being said, I would STILL run the weezy's if I were in your shoes. 3.25" on a two-six is TALL. But I LOVE how it feels. It was a little.. different at first, but manuals, b-hops, and the like are much more effortless now. But I don't think you can go wrong with either or.

And I hear ya on going all-out on builds... seeing those EP prices makes you wanna do it even more, doesnt it?

I prefer 3" ish rise bars on the molly. Keep in mind that the BB height on a molly is around 12.3" I am 5'11" but Vance of USB is like 6'2" and he is running 2.75" bars with I'd say only a 6mm spacer under USB drop stem.

 

[Axis]

Exactly.I am still working on spindle length. Not sure if I need 5.75" or 6". The rest of the build is straight forward and will be ordered tomorrow. A few purple parts to blend it all together..

The molly uses a spanish BB BMX spaced. Order the Profile Madera crank, spindle and BB package. Everything will fit perfectly. I have run that madera setup for 4 years solid on two different molly frames and even the same bearings! You can't beat the price and you get the profile quality.

 

[Axis]

Oh the other thing about determining what rise bars to get... it is all about the relationship of the wheel axles to the bb height to the bars.... not bar height to the ground.

Trust me the molly will never feel like the mob. Even a mob with 24's. I ride weekly with a guy who has 24's and a mob. This isn't a bad thing.

 

[sittingduck]

FYI 23t x 10t works on the molly perfect... slammed in the dropouts too. 22t x 10t will be too low of a gearing you will spin out all of the time. Also 22t x 10t will need a half link unless you want to run the axel as far back as possible in the drop outs. A longer cs will make the bike harder to manual and pop off of lips etc.

Also with that 22t tree... your only option is to go with a 9t driver. That will work nice. It looks like you have an older gen of the molly so the dropouts are longer than the newest gen. The smaller wheels 24 vs. 26 make a difference. a ratio of 2.3 is a good starting point just as 2.0 is to the 26 world. Hear me now believe me later 22x10 on a 24 is gonna $uck. That tree chainwheel is expensive the drivers are cheaper so I would go smaller to a 9t driver.

WORD
I'm running 2.25:1 (36/16) on my cruiser, and it feels real light. I'd see how the chain length works out with 22/9 (2.44:1)

 

[Sean]

whats the thickness of the chainstays on your molly? from the side-profile that is?

I was running 22-11 on my previous frame and the stays have a height of 1.25". Pretty tall... It cleared, but it was close. Hope that helps..

22-9 clears... 1-1/8 at the thickest point.

 

[A Grove]

22-9 clears... 1-1/8 at the thickest point.

I wasn't speaking of a molly frame, but that is good information to have posted up.