Nah, its hell easy mate.kohoy said:oh no.... anyway thanks for your help cave, It looks like it's gonna cost a lot labour if i don't want to do it myself....>< and I'll have to replace oil seal and oil as well....
It needs to have an inner diameter slightly larger then the outside of the cartridge, and an outside diameter larger then the diameter of the top out spring.kohoy said:Do I need the PVC spacer to be fit in size with the tube of my fork? would slightly smaller work?
Cave Dweller said:Nah, its hell easy mate.
Buy some new springs, 1 rate softer then you would normally get as cutting the spring will stiffen it.
Get some PVC pipe, small diameter, maybe even some solid rod with a hole drilled in it.
For every inch you want to drop the travel, lop one inch off the spring and make a 1 inch spacer, 2inchs from the spring make a 2 inch spacer and so forth.
The spacer goes inbetween the flaired section of the upper cartridge and the top out spring as shown.
No need for changing seals, you will need to drain and change the oil though.
Easy as pie, it really is.
that looks like what I'm looking for... and sound easier as well... but should I get a new top out spring (item 12 right?) from marz or should I pull it out and ask some spring shop to make one for me? also, if I don't cut my spring like you said... is it going to be too stiff? I weight 190lb btw.bmxr said:The way that Marz told me to do it on my 02, which I did and was very happy with, is to buy a second set of top-out springs and run them in tandem with the stock ones. This lowered the front by about an inch, which seems to be what you are going for. This means that the 30mm top out springs working against the regular springs should net about 20-25mm lower and add quite a bit of preload, which you will want given the combination of reduced travel and totally linear damping.
I liked the fork a LOT more this way than stock, as my Bullit steered much better with steeper geometry. I also ran heavy springs and the 10w oil level at the highest level recomended in the service manual, to slow the fork down enough to suit my taste.
Let us know how it works out. I have a feeling it won't work so well.kohoy said:I've just ordered a pair of top up spring from dealer of marz now....hehe so you use 10wt oil and how did you setup your rebound and preload? I don't do much big drops... 1.5m high max.... but I do like playing around in some big long stair route in mountain..... any suggestions?
I am not going to debate anything scientific-like about metalurgy, coil bind, or anything else, but I CAN tell you how it actually worked out (no hypotheses being postulated here ); it reduced the travel to 155mm, did not bottom out harshly, nor did it top out harshly. I weigh about 215lbs and ride "vigorously"... FWIW, aLso note that it was what Marz told me to do.Cave Dweller said:Let us know how it works out. I have a feeling it won't work so well.
Putting two springs exactly the same in series equates to a spring half as stiff as the original (ie softer). So the top out spring will not be as stiff as it should be and the main spring will overcome it and top out with a "clunk".
And the whole point of putting the extra spring in was to compress the main spring down resulting in less travel, which is kind of dodgy to begin with.
What will probably happen is the top out springs will just compress until they bind up. The main spring will always have a high rate of pre-load on it , you may get 5-10mm or so of travel reduction but the forks will top out bad.
The way i describded it is how travel reduction is acheived with other forks, such as the 66, z1 etc etc
Exactly, you do get some travel reduction but it would be from the 2 top out springs binding up. With both springs totally wound up they probably measure 15mm or so, which is the 15/20mm in travel reduction you talk about (ok, ok , more then the 5-10mm i said)bmxr said:I am not going to debate anything scientific-like about metalurgy, coil bind, or anything else, but I CAN tell you how it actually worked out (no hypotheses being postulated here ); it reduced the travel to 155mm, did not bottom out harshly, nor did it top out harshly. I weigh about 215lbs and ride "vigorously"... FWIW, aLso note that it was what Marz told me to do.
Either the pvc spacer or the top out spring would be fine(top out spring would be easier, seeing you know it will fit and you have already ordered for it)kohoy said:Wow... getting a little confuse now... i'm not the tech kind of person... but what's the different between getting a new set of top up spring and putting a spacer? also should I cut the pvc spacer or should I cut the spring to prevent excess pre-load problem?