[davep]

No one said any bike is indestructable...but this thread for example is 127 pages, and years old. This is the first post that I remember about a broken front end (other than Heikki's).

BTW, the wear parts in the shock mounting are Fox parts.....and the majority of bolts that come stock on the bike are the highest strength available (grade 10.9). I would agree that some parts are more complicated than needed (concentric shock and pivot complicate things) and there were certainly more than the average Q/C issues related to fitment and tolerance. But there is also a strong corelation that I have personally seen (and heard) between technically minded people and lack of problems.

Pulling apart and hand re-assembling a frame to cover issues and to understand the proper way to do such would eliminate 95% of the issues brought up here......IMO this is something that NEEDS to be done with every full suspension frame when delivered...

Anyway, sorry about your frame. In my six years of riding up there, Whistler seems to have a tendancy to do that kind of thing to a bike.

 

[mark79]

Evening all.

I'm contemplating sending my 5th element shock off my Sunday to Stendec. Apparently they replace the resevoir internals with a custom shim stack,replace the piston rod with a harder one and tune/service.

Is this worth doing or should i just buy a stock 09 Fox DHX?

 

[mugs4pres]

ok so i got an old sunday with the bad dw link that comes loose. since IH is down the ****ter where can i get a new linkage kit????

 

[davep]

BTW.. this same question was addressed one page back......

I know Fluidride had some parts in stock about a week and a half ago....
Calling DH oriented shops that carried IH would be your best bet (or maybe Randal scott).

It would help to know where on this earth you are....

 

[ignitor]

I have any 08 sunday that had play in the back lower pivot. I replaced the bearings as I thought this may be the issue but it has not changed anything.

What is the problem with it and how can this be fixed.

Cheers Tyler

 

[Udi]

For those people with play in the lower link (ignitor, and probably mugs4pres too), it is most likely in the interface between the swingarm pivot axle and lower link. The solution is to clean all parts thoroughly (especially the outside of the pivot axle, and the inside of the lower link that it mates with) and then assemble using loctite 609 retaining compound.

Just coat the inside of the link with the compound, as well as the outside of the pivot axle. Then assemble everything (use loctite 242 or 262 on the bolt that goes into either side of the axle), and leave to cure for at least 24 hours (i.e. don't ride it).

Personally I'd suggest inspecting, and if required, replacing the lower swingarm bearings before this; because once the retaining compound sets, it's hard to break free. Rest assured that if you followed my instructions, you'll never get play in that area again.

As a sidenote, some bikes will develop play in the swingarm's upper bearing seats after being paint stripped, the solution is the same as above. Remove bearings, clean mating surfaces and bearings, assemble with loctite 609 and leave to cure for 24 hours.

Hope that helps.

 

[tfree120]

I was replacing the bearings in my frame and the drive side lower link bearing was extremely hard to remove, I could easily remove the other bearing. I ended up with everything but the outercasing of the bearing stuck in the frame. What is the best way to remove the outercasing?

 

[northernstyle]

Hey guys just wondering if anyone had anymore info on what is the status of IronHorse.

A brief re-cap of my situation. I have a Ironhorse Sunday frame that i purchased last may from world wide cycle supply. when i recently called them to get a warranty on the crack in my frame they said they would not be able to help me with anything and they forwarded me to randall scott.

randall scott is saying that they dont know what is going on with ironhorse but say i will get a bike just not from them.

than i read this article that is saying that the world wide cycle supply liquidated all there ironhorse bikes to the Randall Scott company, who is owned by the son of the world wide cycle supply owner.



http://www.bicycleretailer.com/news/newsDetail/2492.html

I am wondering if this is true?? Did he realize his company was going under and just sell all the bikes his sons company for like stupid cheap?? and now his sons company wont honor my warranty because he is technically not the same company
does anyone know if this article is true?? if so i am seriously gonna go after this company. So dirty

 

[davep]

catch up...and get in line....


http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216311

 

[mugs4pres]

For those people with play in the lower link (ignitor, and probably mugs4pres too), it is most likely in the interface between the swingarm pivot axle and lower link. The solution is to clean all parts thoroughly (especially the outside of the pivot axle, and the inside of the lower link that it mates with) and then assemble using loctite 609 retaining compound.

Just coat the inside of the link with the compound, as well as the outside of the pivot axle. Then assemble everything (use loctite 242 or 262 on the bolt that goes into either side of the axle), and leave to cure for at least 24 hours (i.e. don't ride it).

Personally I'd suggest inspecting, and if required, replacing the lower swingarm bearings before this; because once the retaining compound sets, it's hard to break free. Rest assured that if you followed my instructions, you'll never get play in that area again.

As a sidenote, some bikes will develop play in the swingarm's upper bearing seats after being paint stripped, the solution is the same as above. Remove bearings, clean mating surfaces and bearings, assemble with loctite 609 and leave to cure for 24 hours.

Hope that helps.

that sounds like it could work but i currently have an 06 ironhorse. and i know that these linkage kits had frequent problems. i want to buy the newest version of the dw linkage so i can fix the problem. My linkage is loose around both shock mounts and i fear that anymore riding will not only f my linkage but f my shock as well. i am located in Massachusetts if that helps anything. i basically just need to find a place to buy it.

 

[davep]

Have you tried any of the half dozen shops that were suggested as sources in the last page or so?

 

[mugs4pres]

Have you tried any of the half dozen shops that were suggested as sources in the last page or so?

no, sorry for wasting e-paper and e-space. ill make sure i drive my car less today.

 

[BMCarter]

For those people with play in the lower link (ignitor, and probably mugs4pres too), it is most likely in the interface between the swingarm pivot axle and lower link. The solution is to clean all parts thoroughly (especially the outside of the pivot axle, and the inside of the lower link that it mates with) and then assemble using loctite 609 retaining compound.

Just coat the inside of the link with the compound, as well as the outside of the pivot axle. Then assemble everything (use loctite 242 or 262 on the bolt that goes into either side of the axle), and leave to cure for at least 24 hours (i.e. don't ride it).

Personally I'd suggest inspecting, and if required, replacing the lower swingarm bearings before this; because once the retaining compound sets, it's hard to break free. Rest assured that if you followed my instructions, you'll never get play in that area again.

As a sidenote, some bikes will develop play in the swingarm's upper bearing seats after being paint stripped, the solution is the same as above. Remove bearings, clean mating surfaces and bearings, assemble with loctite 609 and leave to cure for 24 hours.

Hope that helps.

Thanks! I have been having this problem on my 08 recently. The frame is only 2 months old, and figured the bearing are starting to crap out so I just assumed that the lower bearings were developing play.

Pulled everything apart on Monday, tons of rust/dirt in the lower swingarm pivot, cleaned it all out, along with every other bearing and the play is less noticeable although still present. Bearings are starting to wear out, felt a little rough but still spun freely.

Going to replace all the bearings after the Fluidride Cup race in early May, as hopefully (fingers crossed) that will be the last of the wet races I do this season.

 

[project 2501]

Norhernstyle, i sent you a PM.

I would buy cracked, dented, damaged IH SUnday frame, and parts.. any year, any condition.
rodus77@gmail.com

 

[project 2501]

can you tell which (bsides the lg1) chainguide is good for a sunday?

 

[rewster]

project 2501: my new front triangle is scheduled for delivery tomorrow.....you wanna take my dented one off my hands? has a tailgate dent in the downtube. it's not bad, happened in november and i've been riding it hard since with no issues

 

[project 2501]

project 2501: my new front triangle is scheduled for delivery tomorrow.....you wanna take my dented one off my hands? has a tailgate dent in the downtube. it's not bad, happened in november and i've been riding it hard since with no issues

would you send me some pics to rodus77@gmail.com? thank you!

 

[cabagcat]

Hi, my first post and it's all a bit depressing. Just bought a Sunday Frameset 2008 and have it set up with Fox 40rc2 which came off a VP Free. Problem I am having is that when hitting anything slightly steep the bike trys to pitch me over the bars. I have correct sag set up front and rear and the springs are both correct for my weight,. Any suggestions really apreciated, I love the bike but feel she will kill me everytime I go out, she already broke my collar bone!

 

[Udi]

It's not enough to say you have the correct sag F/R and both ends are setup for your weight, because if the bike is doing what you say, then it's clearly not. The Sunday is a slack bike, with a very low BB - that places your weight pretty low in the frame, and makes going OTB much less likely when compared to most bikes out there.

I'd suggest posting how much you weigh, and what springs you are running in each end of the bike. Furthermore, it will help to know the size of your bike and your height.

The other thing is, every 40 I've tried has minimal low speed compression (LSC) damping even with both adjusters turned all the way in, which makes it quite hard to have it maintain a reasonable attitude when riding hard. Thus, personally I'd either run a firmer spring than recommended, or switch to a fork that allows you to run more compression damping (motion control boxxer does the job quite well).

 

[cabagcat]

Agree with all you said, the IH is slack and the weight is biased to the rear which is why its freaking me out. Front forks 5clicks back from full in high speed, same for low speed, spring is blue. Rear is 300lb spring. I weigh 154lb and am 5ft 11 bike size medium, cheers again for any help

 

[Udi]

That makes it a lot easier.

- I'd try a 275lb spring if you can find one, 300lb is too heavy for your weight. I'm 145lb and running a 250lb.

- 40's have virtually no compression damping, I'd screw both of those adjusters all the way in (I know it sounds crazy, but it's really not). I'm not sure about the spring rate unfortunately, is blue the stock medium? If you're mechanically inclined (rebuilding/bleeding damper cartridge) you can add more compression shims to bring the stock damper to life, alternatively a boxxer.. but if you're going fast enough that your setup is doing what you say, then I think doing one of those two things will definitely make your bike a lot better for you.

- Make sure the rebound on the fast is as front as you can deal with comfortably, it should spring back quite briskly when you compress it and let go. The other important consideration is that the rebound on the rear should always be slightly slower than the front.

I think the biggest issue with your setup (as above) is that 40's are quite soft and it's quite likely that your front dives a lot more easily than the rear, given that the rear is slightly oversprung.

Aside from that, you could also try dropping your fork stanchions a little lower in the crowns to slacken things out.

Hope some of those suggestions help - I'm the same height as you and have the same size bike, so I think most things apply. I'm stoked with mine and am yet to find something I like more.

 

[cabagcat]

Cheers mate I will give your suggestions a try, the blue spring up front if for 150-180lbs by the way. Regarding the rear spring my mistake, its a fox so belive the 300-3.25 reading equates to 275lb, so hopefully your other suggestions will work.

 

[P.T.W]

Dude listen to what udi an socket have to say (they know their stuff)

Still would be a good idea to do what i said in your other thread about playing with your adjustments...just remember to make large changes,so any changes to the handling are obvious...then fine tune from there

Just take it out a play with it....its the best way to learn
just dont forget to write everything down...esp your original settings so you can go back to them if nothing works

 

[cabagcat]

Lads cheers again for all the info, will get out on it tomorrow and hopefully let rip and not R.I.P

 

[Udi]

Cheers mate I will give your suggestions a try, the blue spring up front if for 150-180lbs by the way. Regarding the rear spring my mistake, its a fox so belive the 300-3.25 reading equates to 275lb, so hopefully your other suggestions will work.

No worries.

The Fox 300x3.25 is a 300lb spring though, the 3.25 is just the max stroke it can cover. Fox don't make 275lb springs unfortunately, but progressive did (and probably a few other companies... obtainium will do one in Ti if you ever decide to upgrade). They can be hard to find but in any case, but getting the right spring rate is well worth it IMO.

 

[davep]

Cheers mate I will give your suggestions a try, the blue spring up front if for 150-180lbs by the way. Regarding the rear spring my mistake, its a fox so belive the 300-3.25 reading equates to 275lb, so hopefully your other suggestions will work.

Wrong! free length and/or travel have zero effect on spring rate. I would agree 100% that your rear spring is too firm. At ~190lbs, I run a 350. At your spring rate, I cant imagine the rear rebound being too fast (I ran mine all the way out(fast) with the 350 when it was stock. I would certainly look at speeding up the front rebound setting.

Lastly, what rear shock? and what are you running in the way of compression settings. If you are overdamped (quite possible based on your weight and the frame design) in combination with being over-sprung......and you fork is slow and under-damped. This is a perfect combination for over the bars ejection.

Funny though this issue came about when changing form a VP free (tall, steep, akward) to a sunday.

 

[Nic951]

Hi guys,

Just wondering about bearing removal from the rear triangle at the top where the rocker arms bolt to. how do i get them out? is there a certain way to push them out?

Thanks!

 

[cabagcat]

Wrong! free length and/or travel have zero effect on spring rate. I would agree 100% that your rear spring is too firm. At ~190lbs, I run a 350. At your spring rate, I cant imagine the rear rebound being too fast (I ran mine all the way out(fast) with the 350 when it was stock. I would certainly look at speeding up the front rebound setting.

Lastly, what rear shock? and what are you running in the way of compression settings. If you are overdamped (quite possible based on your weight and the frame design) in combination with being over-sprung......and you fork is slow and under-damped. This is a perfect combination for over the bars ejection.

Funny though this issue came about when changing form a VP free (tall, steep, akward) to a sunday.

Just wanted to say thanks to all that have responded to my problem, and now for the tough bit, I am a PLUM!!!!! I will start with a bit of background to the first day I got the bike. Took it to the local track which I had raced on(got 5th by the way) to do a few runs and she felt fast so started messing with the front forks trying to get a little more ect, but also messing with the rebound on the rear which I forgot about. Did another run and got bucked over the bars resulting in a broken collar bone and concusion. Now in my head all I can remember doing is adjusting the front forks(dont ask me why) so got it in to my head they had something to do with the fall. Fast forward to today after reading everyones post and check the rebound on the rear and its one in from full out, hence I made myself pogo over the bars and have three months of pain. There is a happy ending though, I have the rebound dialed in now back 5 from fully in and she has been transformed, no sketchy endo moments and grips like....well you know. So the moral of this story is that if I ever respond to someones post regarding susupension set up, just ignore my response, cause I don't know shi......

 

[richgardiner]

What are people's thoughts/experiences with the enduro bearing kits for sunday frames?
Do they last long?
Do they come with the bearings that have an extended race (or whatever that is )

Can anyone give any tips for taking apart the frame assembly and getting the linkage/bearings out?

Im a bit of a noob when it comes to taking frames apart, and yes ive looked at the exploded diagram but it doesnt give me much of an idea of the best way to take the frame apart.

 

[bmxracer62]

how the fck do i get the dw-link off, it has bad play where it connects to the swingarm and i need to replace the axle that goes though it or something.and the two bolts on the end both tighten to the right. i have the one bolt off, but now the whole thing just spins when i try to loosen it. also are the bearings in the link as well? help!!! im ready to sell it to someone for stupid cheap. im fckn pissed.

 

[davep]

All blind bearings like the linkage bearings on the Sunday and most bikes will require some type of puller to remove them from the frame bore. If you have access to an arbor press, that will work. Most 'at home'ers' use a couple sockets or a selection of washers and pipe/tube pieces along with a bolt and nut to remove these type of bearings. Tightening the bolt carefully will pull the bearing out of the bore.

Rich:
The enduro kit comes with the newest bearings that include the max-E extended race beairngs. The full complement bearings have a higher load rating (good) but can be more prone to problems from contamination/grit due to the seals, less grease space, and less space for the 'dirt' to go. For something like a frame linkage I think they are better, as long as the bearings are semi-protected from the elements (like the sunday) and you are not power-washing your bearings...

BMX:
There is no such thing as 'a DW link'..it is a frame suspension design like Horst link or VPP...it is not a single part. From your description, you are trying to remove the lower link? What year frame? Which lower link? Do you have the extended race bearings or the spacers? Have you tried re-installing the removed bolt and using that to remove the stuck one? penetrating oil? Little heat to break loc-tite?

 

[bmxracer62]

its an 08' sunday.i am referring to the lower link. the bolts on either end tighten to the right. i dont know how to hold the pin that goes though the link to loosen the other bolt. it just spins in the bearing. can i it tap out? i just want to remove the entire link. i have no problem on the shock side of the link. i dont know what to do. i appreciate the input.

 

[bmxracer62]

 

[RUFUS]

Remove the screw, (which you did) and tap out the pin that is just spinning.

 

[davep]

yes, you should be able to gently tap/push the intire pin right through the link/frame/bearings and out the other side..

 

[bmxracer62]

oh i did that, only not so gentle, and it still didnt come out. i'll try agian i guess. thanks for the help guys.

 

[project 2501]

any sunday rear triangles anyone? i need one

 

[viper49]

Please Help... Anyone know where can I get a New DW link conversion kit for my 2005. I like to use the newer rear shock, so that I am net restrict to just the Progressive 5 Element only. I called Randell Scott and they said they don't have any. Your reply is very much appreciated.

 

[DesuL]

call you local shop and order a DHX 5.0 or a RS vivid 5.1. Just got my frame with a Vivid and it feels amazing and I have not even started tuning it in.

There is also a site where you can buy new bearings and bushings for any ironhorse (so I was told) i think tis Enduroseals.com or enduroforkseals.com you may have to google it to find it.

 

[Joe]

Hi guys, Has anybody got a list of the bearings that i would need to make up the bearing kit for an 08 sunday? Cant find this info in the thread so if somebody knows where it is maybe?

Thanks!