http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=80536
Repost, but go to the link and download it, it's even better than the first one.
Repost, but go to the link and download it, it's even better than the first one.
The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
m.m.w. - You mean pic #3?
That's a "skiftnyckel" in swedish, or simply adjustable key/wrench/spanner or "monkey wrench" in english.
OG4LIFE - Haha, I wish I had access to a multiop. CNC at home. We have to force PUSH to manufacture one themselves, or else we'll stop dealing with them
No but seriously, the best already existing link for that modification would be the BOS link. Does anyone know the exact needed link clearance we're talking about?
That's a "skiftnyckel" in swedish, or simply adjustable key/wrench/spanner or "monkey wrench" in english.
OG4LIFE - Haha, I wish I had access to a multiop. CNC at home. We have to force PUSH to manufacture one themselves, or else we'll stop dealing with them
No but seriously, the best already existing link for that modification would be the BOS link. Does anyone know the exact needed link clearance we're talking about?
My upper links have play right now. Mostly side to side - if I grab the rear wheel and rock it back and forth, I can hear the pivots creak and see the main pivot move.
how exactly did you do this?
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I am pretty sure you are refering to the same issue/fix that I had....
For me, the uderside of the flat head bolt was bottoming on the pin before it could fully clamp the upper links to the shock reducers.
I removed the upper pin and carefully took a 3/8" (IIRC) drill bit and opended up the countersink in the open end of the pin. This allowed the bolt to thread in further, clamping the upper links.
That was my scenerio. I think I used a tapered Dremel grinding bit to open mine up a little.
can this thing get un-stickied?
DHi and a UZZISays the guy with no Sunday....or even a DH bike for all we know.
you'd think you guys would have the bike tuned by now after 800 pages.
Your wife's bikes don't count.
Yeah, this thread probably belongs in an "Iron Horse" forum or similar.
Just curious as to how you die-harders will think of this.
I'm planning on getting a sunday at the end of this season. You know, like when everybody starts tossing their frames/completes so that they can get new race-rigs or whatever. I usually run a set up for two to three seasons and end up pedaling the bike around for quite some time. The sunday has sorta' been a dream-boy fantasy of mine for a while now. I run a transition bottle rocket with a 7" 07' 66RC2x. It slacks the bike out a bit and helps it handle a lot better. I estimate a (stock) sunday will be 1-2ish degrees slacker, .75 inches longerish chainstays, and only a couple of units lower bottom bracket. Point being, the geometry looks appealing and the whole legendary handling of the bike is also a selling point.
But now that Iron Horse isn't really making any more of these frames, would it be reasonable to pick up a used 06 or 07 and expect it to handle my abuse for two years? I consistently snag midpack times for all of the "pro"/cat1 classes in the races I attend, and that's on my slopestyle bike, so it's not like I'm going to be riding the steed lightly. I'm new to this sunday researching gig and don't want to swim through all of these pages. Are there still issues with play, or was that solved in the 06 or 07 bikes? Also, how hard will it be to replace bearings and pivot hardware without any first party supplies?
And help, comments, or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks!
I'm planning on getting a sunday at the end of this season. You know, like when everybody starts tossing their frames/completes so that they can get new race-rigs or whatever. I usually run a set up for two to three seasons and end up pedaling the bike around for quite some time. The sunday has sorta' been a dream-boy fantasy of mine for a while now. I run a transition bottle rocket with a 7" 07' 66RC2x. It slacks the bike out a bit and helps it handle a lot better. I estimate a (stock) sunday will be 1-2ish degrees slacker, .75 inches longerish chainstays, and only a couple of units lower bottom bracket. Point being, the geometry looks appealing and the whole legendary handling of the bike is also a selling point.
But now that Iron Horse isn't really making any more of these frames, would it be reasonable to pick up a used 06 or 07 and expect it to handle my abuse for two years? I consistently snag midpack times for all of the "pro"/cat1 classes in the races I attend, and that's on my slopestyle bike, so it's not like I'm going to be riding the steed lightly. I'm new to this sunday researching gig and don't want to swim through all of these pages. Are there still issues with play, or was that solved in the 06 or 07 bikes? Also, how hard will it be to replace bearings and pivot hardware without any first party supplies?
And help, comments, or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Hey jake-o
These bikes still rip. I picked my 08 up at the beginning of this season. It was a pretty well used race rig before me, and I don't ride every weekend, but I don't wax and polish my bikes after every run either...it's still holding up pretty well. I have a little play in what I think is the shock eyelet that I'm still trying to sort out, but otherwise the bike has been great.
If you can snag one cheap from a reputable seller, I say go for it. Bearings are still available from enduro, and there's a wealth of knowledge available in this thread and from users in it.
I rode a Racelink for a couple years, and that frame is higher quality but the geometry on the Sunday is so natural. TT length is great, the bike has a snappy feel. There are some things I miss severly, but the RL never fit right.
These bikes still rip. I picked my 08 up at the beginning of this season. It was a pretty well used race rig before me, and I don't ride every weekend, but I don't wax and polish my bikes after every run either...it's still holding up pretty well. I have a little play in what I think is the shock eyelet that I'm still trying to sort out, but otherwise the bike has been great.
If you can snag one cheap from a reputable seller, I say go for it. Bearings are still available from enduro, and there's a wealth of knowledge available in this thread and from users in it.
I rode a Racelink for a couple years, and that frame is higher quality but the geometry on the Sunday is so natural. TT length is great, the bike has a snappy feel. There are some things I miss severly, but the RL never fit right.
hi i was wondering the what teh bearing numbers on the front and rear stock hubs where and how many are required. i have search but all it did was point me toward this thread and not a particular post. Any help is much appreciated thanks.
As my rear hub is disassembled at this moment, I can tell you that there are:
3x 6803-2RS in the freehub
2x 6903-2RS in the hub
Take care not to damage the pawls when you put the freehub in again. That's what happened to me.
You can easily look on the bearings of your front hub yourself. I think I changed mine, but don't remember the no.
3x 6803-2RS in the freehub
2x 6903-2RS in the hub
Take care not to damage the pawls when you put the freehub in again. That's what happened to me.
You can easily look on the bearings of your front hub yourself. I think I changed mine, but don't remember the no.
Hey,
I just received my 09 Sunday WC frameset, and I have a couple of questions that I hope you guys can help me out with.
First question is with regards to the headset. I always thought that Sundays came with FSA headsets, but the kit that came with mine has a Cane Creek top cover in it. Not a big deal, but I can't find the instructions for this headset online, and it has a few bits in it that I can't see where they would go. In particular are two pieces that look like steerer tube spacers, but have three raised ridges on the inside surface. Does anyone have any advice or, preferably, a scheme that I can follow to build it up? Also, I am assuming that the bearings get tapped directly into the e13 reducer cups, is this correct?
Second question is BB/Crank/Chainguide setup. I am planning on buying an 83mm Truvativ Howitzer BB so I can use my Holzfeller cranks. I also plan to run one of the new e13 SRS+ guides. I have noticed a few vague statements in this thread about Truvativ stuff not being ideal, particularly with regards to the chainline of the Howitzer BB's being 56mm rather than the 'ideal' 57.5mm. I'm wondering if anyone has run my proposed set up, and if they ran into any problems?
Cheers for any help.
EDIT: OK, through reading a few threads on here I have figured out what to do with the headset, although there are still a couple of pieces left over which is a bit confusing. Any help on the BB/crank front still appreciated though.
I just received my 09 Sunday WC frameset, and I have a couple of questions that I hope you guys can help me out with.
First question is with regards to the headset. I always thought that Sundays came with FSA headsets, but the kit that came with mine has a Cane Creek top cover in it. Not a big deal, but I can't find the instructions for this headset online, and it has a few bits in it that I can't see where they would go. In particular are two pieces that look like steerer tube spacers, but have three raised ridges on the inside surface. Does anyone have any advice or, preferably, a scheme that I can follow to build it up? Also, I am assuming that the bearings get tapped directly into the e13 reducer cups, is this correct?
Second question is BB/Crank/Chainguide setup. I am planning on buying an 83mm Truvativ Howitzer BB so I can use my Holzfeller cranks. I also plan to run one of the new e13 SRS+ guides. I have noticed a few vague statements in this thread about Truvativ stuff not being ideal, particularly with regards to the chainline of the Howitzer BB's being 56mm rather than the 'ideal' 57.5mm. I'm wondering if anyone has run my proposed set up, and if they ran into any problems?
Cheers for any help.
EDIT: OK, through reading a few threads on here I have figured out what to do with the headset, although there are still a couple of pieces left over which is a bit confusing. Any help on the BB/crank front still appreciated though.
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The parts that look like steer tube spacers....are steer tube spacers I would guess. As to why you have a CC vs FSA headset...who knows. If it matters, FSA (THindustries) mfg a bunch of the cane creek headset up until a about a year ago..they are virtually interchangable.
As for the cranks, they will be fine. The actual chainline of a bike with a 150 rear end like the Sunday is exactly 55mm. Cranks are just wider than the ideal measurement these days due to BB bearing space requirements. (all 135 rear frames have a 47.5mm chainline but cranks are 50mm...???).
As for the cranks, they will be fine. The actual chainline of a bike with a 150 rear end like the Sunday is exactly 55mm. Cranks are just wider than the ideal measurement these days due to BB bearing space requirements. (all 135 rear frames have a 47.5mm chainline but cranks are 50mm...???).
i need a der.hanger for my sunday!
can someone help me?
dont want to buy on ebay for $50...
i would be fine with a drawing , so I can manufacture it on my own
can someone help me?
dont want to buy on ebay for $50...
i would be fine with a drawing , so I can manufacture it on my own
Cheers for the info mate, that's cleared it up nicely.
I run this setup with no issues. I've run a few crank/guide setups, but I found my way back to the truvativ/e13 gig. Stout setup, just might have to play with iscg spacers a bit to get the desired chainline
Just goign to throw this out there to get some feedback so that I can do what I have to do this week with more confidence. So I have a new linkage and i have to grease everything up. How difficult is it to tap out the bolt just above the crank? Whats the best tools for the job? I only ask this because this is something I cant F up.
if you're talking about the lower shock pin, it's pretty simple. loosen the non-drive side bolt, remove the drive side bolt, insert 4mm allen, tap against the half-way inserted non-drive side bolt, should not be a lot of force.
If you're talking about the 22mm cap bolts, it's quite a bite of torque, mine can't be removed easily enough for me to bother....going to need a breaker bar and a six-point socket...somebody's got some loc-tite on these.
Wrong, it removes towards the non-drive-side. So tap a bolt on the crank side.
Careful; it does remove towards the non-drive side, but you leave that bolt (loosely) in place, then tap against the inside of it. You could tap the outside of the drive side bolt, but eventually it bottoms out against the bearing retainer, and you have to pull or tap the other side out somehow anyways.
hi, can anyone tell me the saturday settings for a roco with a 350 ti spring (spring shorter on both sides by 1 cm)
i am 75 kg ..
psi, rebound , comp
i am 75 kg ..
psi, rebound , comp
and also, xould you tell, where i can download some good quality decals?
If it's just the lower shock pin you're removing, I'll tell you how I do mine, and you can either read page one or search the thread for how other people do theirs.
Step 1, I loosed the non-drive (ND) side 4 mil bolt. Just loosen it, but leave it mostly engaged. This is the split-pin side.
Step 2, I completely remove the 4 mil bolt from the drive side (D).
Step 3, I insert either a torx driver or worthless 4 mil allen wrench into the hole that the D side bolt came out of. The wrench bottoms against the bolt on the ND side, which you left loose in step 1.
Step 4, tap tap tap with a hammer, and pull the bolt out to the ND side.
Reinsertion is basically the opposite. Tighten the D side, then the ND side expanding bolt.
Also, note that leaving the D side bolt in and trying to tap the pin out will not work. The bolt will bottom against the bearing retainer before giving you enough room to grab. Also, don't try and tap the pin itself out, you might damage threads. I tried to do both and learned the hard way, but I can do it in under 5 minutes now, in and out.
Yes.
And yes, it's very important to keep the axles greased. I was a little bit lazy with that in the past because I changed the rear shock pretty often. So it hasn't even been a long time for it to corrode. I attach images to show the effort it took me to get the upper shock pin out. Look at the hexheaded screw. It's a 10.9! I was really afraid of the frame and was close to give up.
But I guess I did no real damage to the frame, at least even the bearings of the upper link still felt ok.
After I managed to take the right upper link off, I took the rest e.g. left upper link, shock and axle to a bench vise to press it out - I killed the vise. Needed the same huge hammer for the rest.
Consider all the new frames came without any grease...
And yes, it's very important to keep the axles greased. I was a little bit lazy with that in the past because I changed the rear shock pretty often. So it hasn't even been a long time for it to corrode. I attach images to show the effort it took me to get the upper shock pin out. Look at the hexheaded screw. It's a 10.9! I was really afraid of the frame and was close to give up.
But I guess I did no real damage to the frame, at least even the bearings of the upper link still felt ok.
After I managed to take the right upper link off, I took the rest e.g. left upper link, shock and axle to a bench vise to press it out - I killed the vise. Needed the same huge hammer for the rest.
Consider all the new frames came without any grease...
Attachments
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you have to take the top bolt out as well, but that's simple. It should remove to the non-drive side, but honestly I don't think it matters. One side is 4mil and the other is 5, loosen the 4mil bolt out and use it to push the 5mil pin out. Then just wiggle it free.
Anybody have experience with the avalanche chubie on the sunday frame? I'm looking at shock options and have found a used one with Hi/Lo for cheap, but it's tuned to a slightly lighter ride than myself. i know most people think Craig overdamps his shocks, so if that's still the case, I may be OK.
Says on the first page that the avalanche chubbie will work if you have the 07 or newer linkage.
I know it'll fit and it will work, but will an avy tuned for a 20lb lighter rider than myself still work appropriately?
I'm sure it'll work fine, seems like you're being overly anal really... at the end of the day, if you need it valved a bit firmer, deal with it until you have a few more bucks handy and then get craig to add moar shimz. 
Tell us how it goes if you get it, I'd be interested in hearing how it compares to the other products on the market.
Tell us how it goes if you get it, I'd be interested in hearing how it compares to the other products on the market.
I'll do my best if it works out...and I agree I'm overanalyzing...I just don't want to shell out money for what may not get my bike to ride how I'd like...geometry is spot on but the damper has left me wishing for more.
Hello to all!
I have IH Sunday Expert frame '08 which has been supplied in stock with Roco R shock. Now I bought a new one Fox DHX 5, but after reading of many posts here I've got some concern about proper DHX work on Sunday DW-Link frame because it's not tuned\revalved in stock specifically for DW-Link frame. Do I really need to do this tune-up? by PushIndustries or any other service.
Other words, will the dw-link suspension work properly if I have stock DHX5 '08 on my Sunday frame '08?
I have IH Sunday Expert frame '08 which has been supplied in stock with Roco R shock. Now I bought a new one Fox DHX 5, but after reading of many posts here I've got some concern about proper DHX work on Sunday DW-Link frame because it's not tuned\revalved in stock specifically for DW-Link frame. Do I really need to do this tune-up? by PushIndustries or any other service.
Other words, will the dw-link suspension work properly if I have stock DHX5 '08 on my Sunday frame '08?