I took the linkage apart and reassembled it off of the frame, and it definitely was coming from the top part of the link. I thought it might be coming from the bottom link but it was pretty obvious it was coming from the top, you could feel the rocker arms moving back and forth. Not a lot, but noticeable on the bike.
The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
Red.
My '07 Elite had Enduro bearings. I'm quite positive they were the stock bearings as the bike was hardly ridden before I got it.
Enduro is the only manufacturer of the max e bearings in 07-09 linkage.
Hey guys, just signed up so I could post in here. 15 years old, work in a bikeshop and come from Victoria, Australia.
I just sold my Medium V10.3 and bought a large 2009 Sunday Team X frame. It has no play in the linkage but has been custom painted and its crap as hell. So, I am paint stripping it and thinking of getting it polished and having a polished/red anno colour scheme. At the moment specs will be as follows:
- Large 2009 Sunday Frame, polished w/cut lower linkage to fit RC4 w/-1 degree angleset.
- 2011 RC4 w/300pd ti spring (will 300pd be good for 65kg rider?)
- 2011 40's Non-Kashima
- 2012 XT Trail w/203mm Rotors
- 165mm Saint Cranks w/hope BB
- LG1+ w/Red Guidering
- Red DMR vault pedals
- Red Hadleys to Atomlab Pimplites or Loaded AMX
- 10sp 2013 Saint Derailleur and Shifter cut to 6 speed w/KMC X10SL chain
- 2.5 minions DHF
- Renthal 20 rise, 770 rise
- Silver sunline stem
- Thomson post and SDG FLY saddle w/red hope clamp
Can anyone see any obvious problems with these specs? Any compatibility issues? Anything that wont work?
Cheers.
I just sold my Medium V10.3 and bought a large 2009 Sunday Team X frame. It has no play in the linkage but has been custom painted and its crap as hell. So, I am paint stripping it and thinking of getting it polished and having a polished/red anno colour scheme. At the moment specs will be as follows:
- Large 2009 Sunday Frame, polished w/cut lower linkage to fit RC4 w/-1 degree angleset.
- 2011 RC4 w/300pd ti spring (will 300pd be good for 65kg rider?)
- 2011 40's Non-Kashima
- 2012 XT Trail w/203mm Rotors
- 165mm Saint Cranks w/hope BB
- LG1+ w/Red Guidering
- Red DMR vault pedals
- Red Hadleys to Atomlab Pimplites or Loaded AMX
- 10sp 2013 Saint Derailleur and Shifter cut to 6 speed w/KMC X10SL chain
- 2.5 minions DHF
- Renthal 20 rise, 770 rise
- Silver sunline stem
- Thomson post and SDG FLY saddle w/red hope clamp
Can anyone see any obvious problems with these specs? Any compatibility issues? Anything that wont work?
Cheers.
Other than the fact that you are going to a fair bit larger frame - which if you are 15, I figure you are still growing and this is desirable.
My Sunday has the link mod and a RC2 and I run a 300lb spring at nearly 80kg. You may need a lighter spring if you like lots of sag, I do. I do however run 175psi in the boost valve so you may be fine with 150psi.
If UDI chimes in he may give some more specific advice, from memory he is a similar weight and you can search this thread for his posts as well as I can.
I like the -1deg headset in mine and forks slid down the sliders till I get 13.75" bb height and about 63.5 deg HA. But a 40 gives you plenty of room to play and see what you like.
Everything else is just a standard build -bars, stem, gearing, brakes etc is just personal choice.
My Sunday has the link mod and a RC2 and I run a 300lb spring at nearly 80kg. You may need a lighter spring if you like lots of sag, I do. I do however run 175psi in the boost valve so you may be fine with 150psi.
If UDI chimes in he may give some more specific advice, from memory he is a similar weight and you can search this thread for his posts as well as I can.
I like the -1deg headset in mine and forks slid down the sliders till I get 13.75" bb height and about 63.5 deg HA. But a 40 gives you plenty of room to play and see what you like.
Everything else is just a standard build -bars, stem, gearing, brakes etc is just personal choice.
I am 6 foot 2, the Medium V10 was just too small, I was always hitting my knees aha.
If I was to run the forks pulled out a bit, for a higher BB (I pedal everywhere), would it be advisable to compensate with a drop crown like a Canfield? Keeping in mind I have low rise bars.
If I was to run the forks pulled out a bit, for a higher BB (I pedal everywhere), would it be advisable to compensate with a drop crown like a Canfield? Keeping in mind I have low rise bars.
You mean drop stem?
I ran a canfield stem with 20mm rise bars on mine when I had 40's on the front - slid down until I had a nearly 14" bb height . Doesnt fit the 888's I have on now and I think in hindsight I may have been too low by a bit. I'm just 6' and on a medium.
Pretty sure the Large Sunday has the same 125mm headtube, so at 6'2" I doubt you'll need a drop stem. Again, very much, personal preference.
I ran a canfield stem with 20mm rise bars on mine when I had 40's on the front - slid down until I had a nearly 14" bb height . Doesnt fit the 888's I have on now and I think in hindsight I may have been too low by a bit. I'm just 6' and on a medium.
Pretty sure the Large Sunday has the same 125mm headtube, so at 6'2" I doubt you'll need a drop stem. Again, very much, personal preference.
Yeah man, I mean a drop stem, was typing on a phone and not fully thinking aha. Guess Ill just set it up as normal and see how I go hitting the cranks.
Always paranoid of low BB's, after this incident aha. Paid $550 for opiums then tacoed them after 3 runs. Anger is greatly exaggerated BTW, remembered I had the GoPro on and put on a show for the fellas.
https://vimeo.com/36122948
Always paranoid of low BB's, after this incident aha. Paid $550 for opiums then tacoed them after 3 runs. Anger is greatly exaggerated BTW, remembered I had the GoPro on and put on a show for the fellas.
https://vimeo.com/36122948
I've tried to search for this w/ various key words and still cannot find the answer. Can you mount the rear shock up side down w/ the reservoir up making all the adjustments easier to get to (especially sag)? If not why so? I can't think up any reason it couldn't.
dude that is one of the funniest things I've seen
From memory the piggy-back will foul the downtube. The only shock that would get away with it is an Avalanche Chubby
Gotcha, darn shame. Thanks for the reply
What are those bolts on the linkage? They look way beefier than the stock ones.
I was doing some research on why my link has play and I ran into this thread
http://bb.nsmb.com/showthread.php?t=100329
What is the big bolt kit that they are talking about and is that what you have on your sunday astoria?
The big bolt was a black socket head bolt with a nylock nut.
And that was for the pre F7 linkage? Where could I find one of those? What kind of hardware is Astoria using then?
That is correct. The upper link wasn't countersunk like the F7. You could get it through most any fastener supplier I would think - just off the shelf parts.
It goes through the shock on the top right? so I assuming it would be 10mm?
What length did you cut the rods at? it looks like you have a fair amount of washers on there. Since it's impossible to find an F7 anywhere I think I'm going to try this out
I used Airplane Stripper when I did a Makulu 2 years ago and it worked great. Probably woulda worked better had I not done it outside in the middle of winter
I think you can still get it at Walmart for about 7 per can (I needed 2). By far the hardest part is getting into all the nooks and crevasses. If I had to do it all over again I would pay to have it professionally done.
I helped my friend do this on his Sunday and we used this in combination with some washers.
McMaster Part #:92981A217
Metric Alloy Steel Shoulder Screw, 8mm Shoulder Dia, 70mm Shoulder Length, M6 Thread
You, will have to run some washers to shorten the shoulder bolt since the correct length needed is 65mm and thats not a common size shoulder bolt.
AL
I am in the middle of doing mine, just used a gel based stripper from mitre 10 (local hardware store) put it on with a paintbrush, leave for 30 mins, scrape off, repeat. Works great but is hard to get into little holes and welds. Do it outside, everytime I do it in the shed I end up high as hell.
If you have access to a air compressor, try this in addition to paint stripper.
http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/
I used the paint stripper first and took off the majority of the paint, then used the soda to clean it up. There will definitely be some stubborn paint on the welds, the swing arm by the axle and near where the shock goes, which were a bitch to get off. I let the paint stripper sit and used a soft wire brush on the welds to get that off, and just paint stripper and a nail to pick off the little flakes in the hard to reach places
Good looking Sunday's everyone. I love this thread, even though I do not own one anymore hehe. In regards to everyone asking about stripping their paint, this question is asked alot. My advice is find you're local powder coater, and have them do it. Cost $40 locally for me. Much less headache than buying liquid stripper and doing it that way. I am the proud new owner of a used sandblaster so I can now do this myself.
started to pull my sunday apart to get it ready to paint, got most of it apart with no hassles just when i went to remove the bottom link from the rear triangle it is stuck! and i mean stuck, i got one of the screws out but the other one just spins the entire axle type thing, ive tried knocking it out with the hammer, about half a can of WD40 and RP7 what else can i do??
cheers for any help
cheers for any help
On the non drive side one of the 4mm bolts actually spreads the "axle type thing". I usually loosen that just about all the way then loosen the other side up. With a couple of turns still left in the drive side I take a rubber mallet and tap it to expose the bolt on the non drive side. It should pull out fairly easy after that. You may need to lift the rear wheel a bit it get the shock to relieve some stress on the axle.started to pull my sunday apart to get it ready to paint, got most of it apart with no hassles just when i went to remove the bottom link from the rear triangle it is stuck! and i mean stuck, i got one of the screws out but the other one just spins the entire axle type thing, ive tried knocking it out with the hammer, about half a can of WD40 and RP7 what else can i do??
cheers for any help
then get a really big hammer and........