anybody with experience on one? just pondering a used frame with avy for a good deal. i'm riding a v10 right now (not racing - just shore & whistler). any thoughts / recommendations? how's the sizing for a 6' guy? hmmm....
tmx owners...
- Thread starter xy9ine
- Start date
i rode one at pkill that had a 2003 monster and 24 inch double wides with 3.0 tires, thing was 65 pounds. didnt feel like a normal bike, felt like a tank like so solid
I bought a like new but used TMX over the winter. I sent it to BMW to get new colour and bearings. took 3 months but damn it was worth it. the bike is solid.
alittle FYI. THe main pivot is hugh and has a total of 6, very large sealed bearings. The derailleur hanger is CNC's steel. The bike is not what you'd think based on all the "stories" you hear. The TMX is pretty small. I can stand flat footed directly over the bike and the seat is only lightly smashing the boys. So needless to say the stand over height is really low. The wheels are off mine right now but I remember the BB height to be pretty high. I have a 35mm stem and the BMW bars and that makes the coskpit nice and compact. The bike feels very flickable. Craig at Avalanche says the frame was not designed for the Avalanche shock when used in the 10.5" travel setting (bottoming). Craig recommends keeping the frame at the 8-9" setting when using his shock. The headtube is very short so the 8" travel forks so not rake the bike out at all. I have the 4" rise bars yet it rides like I have my 2.5 azonic bars. The built in chain giude, perfect chainline and the rubber shielding make sure that the drive train is ultra QUIET.
One suggestion, instead of sending your TMX in to BMW for a turnkey resto, you might send it to them and have them only press out the pivot sleeve and return the 2 frame pieces back to you and hace a local powder coater coat the frame. Send it back to BMW to have the main pivot sleeve pressed back in, bearing installed and the proper torque set on the bearings and a sticker kit. That will probably shave 60 days off your powdercoating task. Next year when I get a new color done, that's what I am going to do.
That's about all the info I can think of. But that TMX !
joel
alittle FYI. THe main pivot is hugh and has a total of 6, very large sealed bearings. The derailleur hanger is CNC's steel. The bike is not what you'd think based on all the "stories" you hear. The TMX is pretty small. I can stand flat footed directly over the bike and the seat is only lightly smashing the boys. So needless to say the stand over height is really low. The wheels are off mine right now but I remember the BB height to be pretty high. I have a 35mm stem and the BMW bars and that makes the coskpit nice and compact. The bike feels very flickable. Craig at Avalanche says the frame was not designed for the Avalanche shock when used in the 10.5" travel setting (bottoming). Craig recommends keeping the frame at the 8-9" setting when using his shock. The headtube is very short so the 8" travel forks so not rake the bike out at all. I have the 4" rise bars yet it rides like I have my 2.5 azonic bars. The built in chain giude, perfect chainline and the rubber shielding make sure that the drive train is ultra QUIET.
One suggestion, instead of sending your TMX in to BMW for a turnkey resto, you might send it to them and have them only press out the pivot sleeve and return the 2 frame pieces back to you and hace a local powder coater coat the frame. Send it back to BMW to have the main pivot sleeve pressed back in, bearing installed and the proper torque set on the bearings and a sticker kit. That will probably shave 60 days off your powdercoating task. Next year when I get a new color done, that's what I am going to do.
That's about all the info I can think of. But that TMX !
joel
If I even THINK about a TMX or racelink, my wallet starts crying. It sucks to be 15 and not have a job.
thanks for the detailed info, joel. whats the approx. frame weight on that beast? any idea what the effective toptube & chainstay lengths are? thanks.
I'll take some measurements & scale it and send you a PM!
jh
jh
..just doing some more research... is there validity to this statement (from an old thread):
"Are you looking at a TMX link or a regular TMX? If it's a regular TMX, I really think you'll be disappointed - especially if you like hitting drops and jumps. The suspension has a very linear rate and tends to bottom easily - even when an Avalanche is used. I weigh all of 165 lbs and bottomed out a stock one on a rather nondescript jump...
Save your pennies for a Race-Link. You'll be much happier. Otherwise, the Scream is a better bike."
hmmmm...
"Are you looking at a TMX link or a regular TMX? If it's a regular TMX, I really think you'll be disappointed - especially if you like hitting drops and jumps. The suspension has a very linear rate and tends to bottom easily - even when an Avalanche is used. I weigh all of 165 lbs and bottomed out a stock one on a rather nondescript jump...
Save your pennies for a Race-Link. You'll be much happier. Otherwise, the Scream is a better bike."
hmmmm...
Call Craig at Avalanche. He can give you the scoop on the frame/shock combo. There are too many variables to comment on that message excerpt. Definately keep getting all the sides to the story before forking over the $$ for a frame.
jh
jh
whats the approx. market value for a good condition tmx frame? (joel, i sent you a pm, but your mailbox is full)
thanks.
thanks.
I agree with avoiding running the 10.5" mode if you're doing any sizeable drops. Besides the other 2 settings are way more than enough travel for most applications. The TMX has a linear/regressive rate which makes it more prone to bottoming out than say a progressive rate, but I never really managed to bottom my old (now Joel's) TMX. It feels like it does go deep into the travel but i never got the harsh feel of bottom out. If you're 6' tall the TMX is a good size for you no questions. I'm 5'5 and rode it without any problems. A BMW link bike will have a more progressive feel to the suspension which will mean you can run softer spring with less chances of bottoming out, but a link (even used) will set you back a bit more than a TMX will (money wise). Wallets will hurt in either case 
. Bike satisfaction factor will overcompensate though.
The TMX definitely feels like a tank. a low riding tank.
Christian -
EDIT: market value for a TMX should be in the US$2000 range. expect it to include crankset and driveline (i.e. jackshaft) and usually either a rear hub or a complete rear wheel that fits. The TMXs take odd rear hubs. Also watch out for the brake arms for floating disc brake. those should also be included.
. Bike satisfaction factor will overcompensate though.The TMX definitely feels like a tank. a low riding tank.
Christian -
EDIT: market value for a TMX should be in the US$2000 range. expect it to include crankset and driveline (i.e. jackshaft) and usually either a rear hub or a complete rear wheel that fits. The TMXs take odd rear hubs. Also watch out for the brake arms for floating disc brake. those should also be included.
i have taken some approximate measurements.
14" floor to center of BB
15.2" center of BB to top of seat tube
19" center of head tube to center of seat tube. keep in mind that the seat tube is angled backwards so the center of the seat is not at the 19" mark.
that's it!
joel
14" floor to center of BB
15.2" center of BB to top of seat tube
19" center of head tube to center of seat tube. keep in mind that the seat tube is angled backwards so the center of the seat is not at the 19" mark.
that's it!
joel
cool. thanks, joel. i'm going to look at it in the next couple days. i'll keep ya posted on what transpires.
http://www.brooklynbikeriders.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=583
this guy had a BMW repainted/bearing'd TMX for sale a month ago or so. i dont think he sold it.
joel
this guy had a BMW repainted/bearing'd TMX for sale a month ago or so. i dont think he sold it.
joel
Nope Chaloots didnt sell it we Roaqd plattekill NY last Saturday together and he loves it! So i guess he will be keeping it!
Now he is running dual 26wheels , sweet bike!
Now he is running dual 26wheels , sweet bike!
so i bought the tmx last night; its in fantastic condition, tho i think i'll throw some fresh paint on it prior to building it up. sure is a weighty beast. some very cool details on this frame. i'm pretty stoked right now.
sweeeeeeet!!!! What colors you got in mind?????
Congratulations on your 'new' frame you're gonna love it
Congratulations on your 'new' frame you're gonna love it
Raw is definitely very bad ass. The only thing BMW mentioned about raw is it kinda tends to yellow out after a while... Here's my X-TMX stripped down by mister Joel 
hind site is 20/20 and eventhough i love my new paint, I'm really diggin this color combo. check it!
how was that frame stripped? chemical or blasting? also - is that the serial # stamped on the brake floater mounting plate? mines #34...
as you can tell by actually seeing a BMW frame in person, there is alot of attention to detail. That's why I spent alot of time stripping mine down, see above photo. I was told that the clear does not wear very well. I didn't want that. I like all black bikes but you loose all the detail of the frame cause it all just blends in together into one big black blob.
I decided that I'd keep the swing arm black in TMX tradition. I chose a "safe" color for the main frame when I should have lived alittle. its all good.
joel
PS
i had bmw make this small perch to hold the remote instead of using a big clamp to go all the way around the frame.
I decided that I'd keep the swing arm black in TMX tradition. I chose a "safe" color for the main frame when I should have lived alittle. its all good.
joel
PS
i had bmw make this small perch to hold the remote instead of using a big clamp to go all the way around the frame.
That bike is a BIG link I believe, not a TMX. Joel's is pimpin' white.
I used a nasty chemical to blister & then scrap off the powder coat. probably took a total of about 5 hours to do. I'll snap a photo of the stuff I used. I applied it very thick with a paint brush and let it sit. you could see this stuff dissolving the powder coat. I had a putty knife that I'd scrap the majority of it off the tubing. The small placed required a small wire brush, needle or whatever.
The frame is stamped #77.
I am not finished building the bike yet. I'll have it finished next week. I have a DH race in Arkansas the 22nd of this month + a 9 DH road trip to new mexico, Moab and then the Chile CHallenge DH race in Angel Fire. Make no mistake, the bike is not a racer. It's heavy but once you get it going, it will flow very well !
Here is an old photo with a wanker wheel set, fag seat and carbon bars - barf. I was just shooting a photo with what parts I had around.
joel
The frame is stamped #77.
I am not finished building the bike yet. I'll have it finished next week. I have a DH race in Arkansas the 22nd of this month + a 9 DH road trip to new mexico, Moab and then the Chile CHallenge DH race in Angel Fire. Make no mistake, the bike is not a racer. It's heavy but once you get it going, it will flow very well !
Here is an old photo with a wanker wheel set, fag seat and carbon bars - barf. I was just shooting a photo with what parts I had around.
joel
that wheel and seat RULE!!!!
That perdy 77 was one of the last batches. And to think that I sold her to you... hehe boy do I ever miss her! Better be enjoying every ounce of her
Their frames are stamped with the "serial" #, which is basically the # of your frame in order since they built the 1st one. My mini for example is stamped 12, which means it's the 12th mini the whole world ever saw... like Adam would be #1 and Eve would be #2.
That perdy 77 was one of the last batches. And to think that I sold her to you... hehe boy do I ever miss her! Better be enjoying every ounce of her
Their frames are stamped with the "serial" #, which is basically the # of your frame in order since they built the 1st one. My mini for example is stamped 12, which means it's the 12th mini the whole world ever saw... like Adam would be #1 and Eve would be #2.
that blue is also super cool. I was thinking about that blue with a orange rear end/orange spring but then decided to stick with lime green.
BMWs are very very limited production run bikes. #77 was one of the last batches of TMXs they ever made. I'd say prully like 80 TMXs out there all together... mebbe a few more but not much... And that's in like 7 or 8 years... mebbe even more my history is blurry...
I think the polished swingarms with a pastel front color are very cool.
Some quite subtle differences you can notice between yours (#34) and the #77 for example are the 77 has a custom headtube husset and custom shock mount designed for Avy shocks.
BMWs are very very limited production run bikes. #77 was one of the last batches of TMXs they ever made. I'd say prully like 80 TMXs out there all together... mebbe a few more but not much... And that's in like 7 or 8 years... mebbe even more my history is blurry...
I think the polished swingarms with a pastel front color are very cool.
Some quite subtle differences you can notice between yours (#34) and the #77 for example are the 77 has a custom headtube husset and custom shock mount designed for Avy shocks.
xy9ine- VERY sweet frameset. The chrome swing is sweet ! There is also a stamped serial number on the swing arm too, near the thru axle, that matches the one on the frame.
To save time on your new powder coating, I'd suggest shipping the frame As-is, back to BMW and ask them to press out the pivot sleeve and ship back both pieces to you. Then take the front frame to your local powder coater and get it colored! Polish up the rear swing arm or get it stripped/re-chromed or powder coated. Then ship both pieced back to BMW to get the pivot pressed in and the torque set on the 6 pivot bearings. FYI, the 6 pivot bearings are $18.00 each ! The bearings in the pivot are hard to get out and it is useless to do so cause you can't get the sleeve out yourself anyway. Also, all the bearings in the floating brake assembly are easily found at your local bearing company.
This sounds like alot of back and fourth but you'll altleast be in control of production. It took 3 months to get mine done turnkey at BMW and that is sending them a fully stripped and prepared frame. It was worth the wait cause their paint is beautiful. They include a complete sticker kit as well as all new hardware (nuts and bolts for everything) So consider this cause 3 months to get your frame worked on will cost you half the riding season this year. Maybe you should just build it up and ride that damn thing and get it re-done this winter. Maybe then you'll have a better feel for what you want done to the bike ( additional gussetts, remote mount, etc)
Do you have the parts for put it together ??
What is the parts list ??
joel
To save time on your new powder coating, I'd suggest shipping the frame As-is, back to BMW and ask them to press out the pivot sleeve and ship back both pieces to you. Then take the front frame to your local powder coater and get it colored! Polish up the rear swing arm or get it stripped/re-chromed or powder coated. Then ship both pieced back to BMW to get the pivot pressed in and the torque set on the 6 pivot bearings. FYI, the 6 pivot bearings are $18.00 each ! The bearings in the pivot are hard to get out and it is useless to do so cause you can't get the sleeve out yourself anyway. Also, all the bearings in the floating brake assembly are easily found at your local bearing company.
This sounds like alot of back and fourth but you'll altleast be in control of production. It took 3 months to get mine done turnkey at BMW and that is sending them a fully stripped and prepared frame. It was worth the wait cause their paint is beautiful. They include a complete sticker kit as well as all new hardware (nuts and bolts for everything) So consider this cause 3 months to get your frame worked on will cost you half the riding season this year. Maybe you should just build it up and ride that damn thing and get it re-done this winter. Maybe then you'll have a better feel for what you want done to the bike ( additional gussetts, remote mount, etc)
Do you have the parts for put it together ??
What is the parts list ??
joel
http://www.jasco-help.com/products/prod_rem.htm
this is the stuff I used to strip my frame. wear THICK industrial gloves and goggles. this stuff burns you skin and it does hurt.
joel
this is the stuff I used to strip my frame. wear THICK industrial gloves and goggles. this stuff burns you skin and it does hurt.
joel
ya, i dont think i have the patience for a full resto right now; i'll most likely do a quick strip & clear for now - whistler is open & i want to ride the thing! i'll be swapping my parts off my race bike - a pile of raceface stuff, a whitebros dh2.0 & some (relatively) light wheels. i'm interested to see what one of these weighs in at with race kit (tho i'm not terribly optimistic)
Wait till you guys see my TMX next week
Oh **** ! This is gonna be good.
jh
a couple questions about parts since I'm about to order all the small stuff to finish by TMX:
1. what is the deal with the floating rear brake mount. it measures 51mm. Shortbus told me that it uses an 8" front IS adapter. That was for his M4 Hopes. I'm buying Hayes Mag / Galfer. I'm sure the caliper will be the new G2 74mm post style. What adapter do I need? Front 51mm 8" ?
2. I guessing a medium cage derailleur is fine ?? as opposed to long. I'm going to try Sram X.O grip shift for the first time.
3. What size is the chain is on the non-drive side ?? 1/8 ???
1. what is the deal with the floating rear brake mount. it measures 51mm. Shortbus told me that it uses an 8" front IS adapter. That was for his M4 Hopes. I'm buying Hayes Mag / Galfer. I'm sure the caliper will be the new G2 74mm post style. What adapter do I need? Front 51mm 8" ?
2. I guessing a medium cage derailleur is fine ?? as opposed to long. I'm going to try Sram X.O grip shift for the first time.
3. What size is the chain is on the non-drive side ?? 1/8 ???
It is a front mount so You need the front adapter and maybe a little fabricating as well
Medium cage is fine there in no chain growth so you can run a short chain
The non drive is a single speed chain
Picked up my frame today so keep posted for some pics
Medium cage is fine there in no chain growth so you can run a short chain
The non drive is a single speed chain
Picked up my frame today so keep posted for some pics
so... whats the seatpost diameter for these frames?
progress report: frame is dissasembled; main pivot/bearings are pressed out; i'm getting the front stripped this week, and will be powder coating it clear (raw finish); profile imperial chainring & titanium spindle are on the way... lots of parts on these frames! the front triangle & swingarm arent *that* heavy, its just all the bits that bolt on that add up...
progress report: frame is dissasembled; main pivot/bearings are pressed out; i'm getting the front stripped this week, and will be powder coating it clear (raw finish); profile imperial chainring & titanium spindle are on the way... lots of parts on these frames! the front triangle & swingarm arent *that* heavy, its just all the bits that bolt on that add up...
28.6 but get a gutless
this is clear
here is a few more misl shots. The bike is at the bike shop getting the galfer/hayes brakes installed, wheels build, ETC ETC. My arrow tires are not getting here until thursday the the 20th and I leave the 21st for a race. I guess I only have one shot at getting the ghetto tubeless to work. I think I know how to do it, sounds pretty simple.
laterz,
jh
laterz,
jh
a cool shot