Hacked together a patch of the leaking fuel line in ze Beetle and drove it to a shop without any incident. Patched the tire I pinch flatted yesterday with bacon strips. We shall see how well the fix is holding later today.
Yea, never again.
Though if I do Ill just put an alligator clip on one end of the cable connected to the positive terminal of the battery. Let the potential thief ride the lightning first.
Ooooh 12volts. Super scary.
You will want a buck boost converter and some large capacitors.
EATON DC CAPACITOR BANK ASSEMBLY 101614091 **WARRANTY INCLUDED** | eBay
EATON CAPACITOR BANK. GOOD CONDITION, USED, WARRANTY INCLUDED ! NEED YOUR ITEM FASTER ??.www.ebay.com
Think that would suffice? $300 sounds reasonable for peace of mind.
That sucks. Keep looking for it. Granted smaller community up this ways, but we found my buddies Pivot six months after it was stolen from the back of his truck.buddy's bike got stolen last night. brand new bronson. was on his hitch rack in his apartment complex's gated garage. lock got cut while he was taking groceries up and taking a shower. no cameras in the lot.
trying to be productive. the struggle is real.
SOC baby in full effect!SUMMER OF CLAUS! SUMMER OF CLAUS! SUMMER OF CLAUS!
I can lend you a 142 wheel in the meantime, but yea, sounds like it's time.Lower dw link on my Turner Burner is worn to the extent that the set of bushings I put in last August are worn out already, lots of play.
Then today I blew out a section on my rear Industry Nine Torch hub flange (non boost), two spoke holes gone.
Likely can't get a new link from Turner and I don't want to spend the monies buying another non-boost 142 rear hub.
Not good timing when wifey is still of work due to becoming covid unemployed.
7 1/2 years of good times on the trail bike might be coming to an end...
You need a new, black, satanic t-shirt, don’t you?Lower dw link on my Turner Burner is worn to the extent that the set of bushings I put in last August are worn out already, lots of play.
Then today I blew out a section on my rear Industry Nine Torch hub flange (non boost), two spoke holes gone.
Likely can't get a new link from Turner and I don't want to spend the monies buying another non-boost 142 rear hub.
Not good timing when wifey is still of work due to becoming covid unemployed.
7 1/2 years of good times on the trail bike might be coming to an end...
Picture of said link? Seems like a quick reaming and either an oversized bushing or a press for shin should fix it. Also, almost a year out of a set of bushings doesn’t seem terrible, doing nothing and just replacing the bushings sounds like a viable option.Lower dw link on my Turner Burner is worn to the extent that the set of bushings I put in last August are worn out already, lots of play.
Then today I blew out a section on my rear Industry Nine Torch hub flange (non boost), two spoke holes gone.
Likely can't get a new link from Turner and I don't want to spend the monies buying another non-boost 142 rear hub.
Not good timing when wifey is still of work due to becoming covid unemployed.
7 1/2 years of good times on the trail bike might be coming to an end...
That the two piece, feminine pad shaped link?Lower dw link on my Turner Burner is worn to the extent that the set of bushings I put in last August are worn out already, lots of play.
Then today I blew out a section on my rear Industry Nine Torch hub flange (non boost), two spoke holes gone.
Likely can't get a new link from Turner and I don't want to spend the monies buying another non-boost 142 rear hub.
Not good timing when wifey is still of work due to becoming covid unemployed.
7 1/2 years of good times on the trail bike might be coming to an end...
The inner faces which rub against the outside of the bushing have worn, hard to get a shim in there because the rest of the link is still the same thickness and it's tight to slide over the bushings.Picture of said link? Seems like a quick reaming and either an oversized bushing or a press for shin should fix it. Also, almost a year out of a set of bushings doesn’t seem terrible, doing nothing and just replacing the bushings sounds like a viable option.
Non boost i9 wheels should be practically free these days, worth scoping the PB classifieds anyway.
dude. one ben franklin: https://etteonil.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=18706&zenid=21g2eaq1krn73bjlb4b40drvt5The inner faces which rub against the outside of the bushing have worn, hard to get a shim in there because the rest of the link is still the same thickness and it's tight to slide over the bushings.
I'll see if I can get a photo tomorrow. Also going to throw a hail mary and see if I9 have got any old 32h non-boost classic torch hub shells taking up space on a shelf.
Looks legit :/
According to this spoke calculator the road and MTB versions are different:Looks legit :/
I'm not sure if there's a hub shell difference between a "road" hub and mountain, I realize I can swap the freehub, but if the flange measurements are different then I likely also need all new spokes.
Yeah, I9 website has the sizes as different and that website isn't remotely legit anyway, I think @jstuhlman is trying to scam me out of a BenjaminAccording to this spoke calculator the road and MTB versions are different:
#1 Wheel Building SPOKE CALCULATOR Now Online | PROWHEELBUILDER | Prowheelbuilder.com
This spoke calculator is provided only as a guide for your convenience in determining spoke lengths for your order. Select your components to quickly get a spoke length or you can enter them manually.www.prowheelbuilder.com
Would a shim fix it? If so, maybe a "T" bushing with a flange to take up the room, or just use a dab of grease to hold the shim in place while assembling the frame?The inner faces which rub against the outside of the bushing have worn, hard to get a shim in there because the rest of the link is still the same thickness and it's tight to slide over the bushings.
I'll see if I can get a photo tomorrow. Also going to throw a hail mary and see if I9 have got any old 32h non-boost classic torch hub shells taking up space on a shelf.
If I'm understanding what you're calling a t-bushing, that's what the system already uses. The tolerance is so tight on the one piece linkage that sliding it over the bushings which are holding the pivot shafts in place has zero free space. The faces of the bushing have worn away the flat faces on the linkage - but not right to the edge.Would a shim fix it? If so, maybe a "T" bushing with a flange to take up the room, or just use a dab of grease to hold the shim in place while assembling the frame?
i9 may actually have some, or know where to look. When I was trying to figure out how to carry my non boost wheelset over to my boost Egg frame they said tons of people are just sending in wheels for hub shell swaps and that's what they recommended I do. Ended up just buying all new wheels, or I'd have a shell to give you, but those other unwanted non-boost hub shells have to still exist somewhere, right? Although I imagine the majority are from full i9 wheels, not the regular flanged hubs.
Best thing I ever did was buy a used jewelers lathe (Sherline 4000) for making little one-off pieces for things like this. Machine it out of brass, nickel plate it and viola. I don't use it often, but when I do, it is indispensable.If I'm understanding what you're calling a t-bushing, that's what the system already uses. The tolerance is so tight on the one piece linkage that sliding it over the bushings which are holding the pivot shafts in place has zero free space. The faces of the bushing have worn away the flat faces on the linkage - but not right to the edge.
I guess if I had the skillset and the tools you could face the inside of the linkage flat where it pivots against the bushing, giving space to then somehow take up the slack with a beer can shim.
View attachment 147576
How much wear is there and it even? If so a brass washer could be turned and ground to fit.If I'm understanding what you're calling a t-bushing, that's what the system already uses. The tolerance is so tight on the one piece linkage that sliding it over the bushings which are holding the pivot shafts in place has zero free space. The faces of the bushing have worn away the flat faces on the linkage - but not right to the edge.
I guess if I had the skillset and the tools you could face the inside of the linkage flat where it pivots against the bushing, giving space to then somehow take up the slack with a beer can shim.
edit: obviously the linkage needs to remain the same dimension for the face where the pivot shaft is clamped...
View attachment 147576