[fro biker]

Kid: I also fall within the Clydesdale category for size, so there is good chance I'm not noticing it.
Udi: Fantastic analysis. That is very valuable info. Thanks for the insight.

 

[kidwoo]

a small caveat.

Oh yeah, that's pretty minor.

I'll get right on that.


I do want to ride one that you've messed with though!

 

[Samoto]

i thought dual progressive curve was myth! I'm glad it exists.

Dual Forever!

 

[Nick]

But what about the harsh square edge performance? I removed the BV from mine which removes the end stroke increase in compression damping, and increased the IFP depth to reduce the end stroke increase in spring rate. With the BV removed you also get a little more depth range for the IFP, I set mine at 1mm up from bottomed.

This is good news for owners of fat shaft RC4s in these frames, because it means you don't need a new shock, and a knowledgeable suspension service center (somewhere like Vorsprung) can make the required changes without any additional parts.

The end result is a shock that doesn't blow through the first inch or two, but also doesn't suffer on square edges and require you to run every setting wide open to compensate for excessive damper progression. Hope that's useful or of interest to someone, as it took me a while to figure out how to tune a shock for the dual progressive curve.

Very interesting. I'd love to learn more.

 

[kidwoo]

i thought dual progressive curve was myth! I'm glad it exists.

Dual Forever!

Meh. Overrated.


I don't know how much stock you put in these (or if the prototype mapped out here is still entirely comparable to what got produced)




You can see what Udi's talking about at the beginning of the travel. It does give the bike a really loose feeling off the top. I'm not sure I'd go so far as to say it's useless as far as maintaining downward pressure but you can certainly feel it.

But you start hitting that end stroke ramp at about 5" in, which feels fine on any other shock. The big shafter dhx just steepens that up quite a bit. Like I said, I like it on smoother jumpy trails. But I wasn't effectively using the functional travel range everywhere else.

 

[rhynohead]

So what's the recommended shock for the dw dhr? I've been running the old RC4 for over a year now and I'd like to upgrade the rear without having to grind any of the links down. CCDB? Will avy's SSD mod make a difference with the RC4 on the DHR?

 

[yd35]

So what's the recommended shock for the dw dhr? I've been running the old RC4 for over a year now and I'd like to upgrade the rear without having to grind any of the links down. CCDB? Will avy's SSD mod make a difference with the RC4 on the DHR?

The Vivid shock with the low tune works well. I like my X-Fusion Vector HLR but it has a DW-Link tune on it so I can't vouch for the stock tune shock. I'd imagine you could get the CCDB to work well with the frame too. In terms of fitment issues, I think only some air shocks, the old Vivid Air comes to mind, had problems. Not sure if there are problems with the newer Vivid Airs. The other air shocks (CCDB Air, X-Fusion Vector Air) all fit without any modifications.

 

[csermonet]

I really wish there was some sort of DIY thread or video that showed how to do the Boost Valve removal. I would definitely be keen to try that mod, since its basically free

 

[Ian Collins]

Will avy's SSD mod make a difference with the RC4 on the DHR?

yes...huge

 

[fro biker]

After a very brief exploration into the SSD, that upgrade seems pretty badass.

Are there any other comparable shock mods/tunes to the SSD, or is that pretty much "where the buck stops" in terms of AM upgrades for DWlnk bikes/DWDHR? E.g. would purchasing a custom Ohlins be a better/similar option?

 

[ScarredOne]

I feel that the shock for the DW DHR is a CCDB, personally. I was able to set mine up to pop real nice and it never felt as harsh over chunky terrain compared to the RC4. Having something "Avy-tuned" seems to be cool and all, but my personal experience (with DHS shock) turned me away. Running a CCDB with wide adjustment range that any rebuild center wouldn't hesitate to work on seems better to me anyway, just my opinion.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

is this the fat shaft RC4?

if so i will follow some of the instructions in here to get it feeling as best as possible

 

[kidwoo]

Yeah that's the fatty. Mail it to Udi

Looks like the bike's in good shape!

 

[Sandwich]

dat CNC work tho

 

[6thElement]

Best colour too.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

i know! the raw cnc look is my favorite.. real stoked..

gunu strip down the commy now. no riding this weekend because of windham

 

[blindboxx2334]

I thought it was the "2014" model where they reduced the effect of the boost valve, reducing the internal ramp up of the design. So, if you have a "2014" or later shock, you should have all the jazz.

love me some shaft jazz

 

[ocelot]

Has anyone had experience with both the coil and air CCDBs on the DW dhr?

 

[jackalope]

No experience personally, but I will gladly speculate it might not play well since the DHR appears to have a fairly traditional progressive leverage curve. Although perhaps the mega-air can option makes this a non-issue.

 

[yd35]

No experience personally, but I will gladly speculate it might not play well since the DHR appears to have a fairly traditional progressive leverage curve. Although perhaps the mega-air can option makes this a non-issue.

CC recommends that you go coil for the reason stated above. The XV can would certainly improve the shock for the DHR but that's like buying a veggie burger cause it's less calories than a real burger but then having to load it up with toppings and ketchup because it tastes like **** otherwise. Sure, you still end up ingesting less calories, but is it really worth the extra time, money, and still inferior taste? I'd personally just buy the real burger.

 

[Sandwich]

CC recommends that you go coil for the reason stated above. The XV can would certainly improve the shock for the DHR but that's like buying a veggie burger cause it's less calories than a real burger but then having to load it up with toppings and ketchup because it tastes like **** otherwise. Sure, you still end up ingesting less calories, but is it really worth the extra time, money, and still inferior taste? I'd personally just buy the real burger.

anybody else hungry?

 

[Nick]

so what burger toppings do you recommend for less dive in g-out/berm situations?
how many clicks of high-speed relish are you running?


When I had my round tube dhr, PUSH rebuilt my DHX5 with amazing results. They too did something to reduce the boost valve effect which IIRC Darren explained as removing the guts and machining away at the inside to increase the volume (overly simplified I'm sure). I just know it was a world better than stock.

I have zero complaints about my shock, but whenever it comes time to service I'll have to look into some of this IFP/Boost/Ketchup black magic.

 

[Udi]

Yeah that's the fatty. Mail it to Udi

For a large sum of money, I'll wash your shock and send it back with a sticker.

 

[csermonet]

For a large sum of money, I'll wash your shock and send it back with a sticker.

Udi, do you have a website or anything?

 

[yd35]

For a large sum of money, I'll wash your shock and send it back with a sticker.

I like where your head's at with the sticker but it really should say "MOAR SHIMZ by Udi". BTW has anyone patented that statement yet?!

 

[TrumbullHucker]

not sure if trolling? you tune shocks UDI?

 

[TrumbullHucker]

right on, so shes like 80% built up and looking faast. the machining and welds on this thing are beautiful

.. reason why its not 100% is because the derailleur bolt was bottoming out before getting nice and flush with the frame. the bolt looks to "flar" out once the threads stop.

that split o ring is something i do not have, but it was not on my previous bike though. #puzzled



rear brake hosing routing is another thing.. i really dont feel like popping my caliper off so i can snake the house through the interior of the frame/ links, then having to bleed the brakes all over again ( just did them 2 weeks ago )
do i have to disassemble the suspension to get the caliper through?


basically im lazy and i dont want to do sh*t.... hell, i dont feel like doing work at work right now

 

[Dogboy]

rear brake hosing routing is another thing.. i really dont feel like popping my caliper off so i can snake the house through the interior of the frame/ links, then having to bleed the brakes all over again ( just did them 2 weeks ago )
do i have to disassemble the suspension to get the caliper through?


basically im lazy and i dont want to do sh*t.... hell, i dont feel like doing work at work right now

If you remove the forward shock mount bolt and lift the shock up do you have room to thread the caliper through. That seems like the easiest option if it'll work.

 

[6thElement]

Yeah, just unbolt one end of the shock and thread it through. I just changed brakes on my DHR a couple of weeks ago, so well versed in this plus my old levers wouldn't fit between HT and stantion, new ones did.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

hopefully the Zee levers will slip through... cool


any tips on the derailleur problem?

 

[kidwoo]

hopefully the Zee levers will slip through... cool


any tips on the derailleur problem?

They will. It's an IQ test.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

hahah.. thats what it was when i tried getting the brake caliper through the area above the rear shock.. rotate 10 degrees forward, left tilt 30 degrees, 3 degrees rotation...

need to get under that shock doe

 

[kidwoo]

I've squeezed saint and zee calipers and levers through mine. I do remember it being annoying but it's possible. I never took anything apart to do it.

 

[StiHacka]

It's def not as bad as a Mojo HD where you have to take apart half of the bike to thread the rear caliper through the rear triangle.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

I've squeezed saint and zee calipers and levers through mine. I do remember it being annoying but it's possible. I never took anything apart to do it.

now this arouses me... would be cool not to unbolt anything

 

[TrumbullHucker]

okay shes nicely rerouted, did not have to unbolt anything

next thing is the rear brake mount. i have a 185mm rear disc, will this work for my zee brakes to the dhr?
http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-F180PP2-Disc-Brake-Adaptor

slowly but surely shes coming together

 

[kidwoo]

next thing is the rear brake mount. i have a 185mm rear disc, will this work for my zee brakes to the dhr?
http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-F180PP2-Disc-Brake-Adaptor

slowly but surely shes coming together

That's it. There is no 'rear' one since most frames don't use a post mount so that'll do'er.

 

[TrumbullHucker]

nice.. thats in the mail and will be coming thurs, then mt snow for 2 days ( maybe mt snow 1 day, killington the other?) for a proper christening

 

[yd35]

Grease the interface between the derailleur hanger and frame. My frame creaked before I did that, and it nearly drove me mad trying to figure it out.

 

[buildyourown]

FWIW, I replaced my shock with an Avy earlier this year and have been very happy. Granted, there must be a significant placebo affect considering the price. But I have made zero adjustments out of the box and have literally never ridden another bike/shock that has felt this good. Mid travel support and really rough rock gardens are especially good.
Had a Vivid coil on it before.