[bullcrew]

well durability wise I rode mine in 5 degrees to 105 degrees from Socal to N idaho in snow and midnight urban runs in Lewiston teetering 3-5 degrees. LOL NEVER had an issue with the earlier ones at all even in mud etc they always grab, I did get rotor frost and icing one time but slam a good handfull of brakes and it burned off fast.

So if they are onpar with past offerings then you should be very happy and confident in trusting them. (wish they had pad contact adjustment )

 

[gemini2k]

So, actual question here.

If the Formula Ones are the best, how come they're so rare? Wouldn't they be everywhere?

Having tried codes, juicy's (with and without stainless lines), the ones, hope M4's (with and without stainless lines), and saints (old and new) in the past 18 months I can tell you the ones feel really good at first, great power and modulation, but as the pad wears in the lever throw gets all f-ed up, and it doesn't engage as quickly, forcing you to replace pads constantly if you want a consistent feel (over long periods of time that is) for your brake.

However, on a given run, they do not heat up or fade, best consistency of any brake in that respect (new saints might be better, haven't had a chance to ride those in a really grueling setting). Plus, compared to avids/hopes/shimanos they're kind of a pain to bleed. The lever design made it easy to get air trapped in there.

I wonder if the new ones are better/easier to bleed?

 

[IH8Rice]

I wonder if the new ones are better/easier to bleed?

voodoo said they are easy, so you must be doing something wrong

 

[bullcrew]

Ols ones were easy to bleed, use the avid bleed kit and its a snap. The new ones have a longer snout needed for the lever end to get onto it but the lower is identical so its easy. They blead SIMPLE!!!

 

[gemini2k]

voodoo said they are easy, so you must be doing something wrong

Oh no, I wasn't, I got them to bleed just great eventually. But you have to be very careful and follow the directions exactly. Takes a bit more mental effort and presicion than say saints/hopes/avids, that's all. And several other experienced brake bleeders confirm the exact same thing.

Which I'm sure opens me up for criticism that I'm stupid and/or lazy, but fact remains the other 3 brands were easier.

They're good brakes just not perfect/my cup of tea. Been rocking the codes right now for about 18 months on my DH bikes, juicy's on my trailbike/DJ hardtail. I've got a set of old style xt's as back up for the juicy's on the trailbike, and I'll replace the codes with saints if they ever break, although they've been doing an amazing job so far.

 

[al-irl]

avids and formulas are exactly the same to bleed so you can't give out about one without the other. Granted there not as simple as shimanos but there not exactly rocket science. As far as durability goes I had oros before and they were a pain used to have a spare pair in my tool box at races as the levers inevitably got sticky. It was just easier to switch the brakes than sort it in between race runs. Power was great and loved the levers. So far I've been really impressed with the ones, although I haven't clocked up enough use to really try them out.

 

[syadasti]

Back to the future. Listen kids, this is an OLD MC style for Formula. I had these models but they weren't worth the trouble/premium over the common brands of their time. They were pretty delicate too.

Old Formula brakes - 4RacingDH

Really old Formula brakes - 4Racing

 

[buckoW]

I have been running the 2010 Ones since Eurobike last year with no bleeding, maintenance or problems. While I was building on the Champery WC DH track I was getting in lots of runs on the new track and the brakes just took the abuse with no complaints. The bigger MC deals much better with the lever throw/pad wear issues. I am very happy with the new Ones and I am biased, btw.

 

[p-spec]

Never tried eny formulas to be honnest.Have owned pretty much everything else eccept gustavs and said formulas.These the ones interest me.I like power and apperently these have got it.

They remind me of these bad boys

with a mix of this

 

[IH8Rice]

thank god they arent like those levers. adjusting your brake half way down the hill is crazy

 

[S.K.C.]

Did a 3 hour hike-a-bike yesterday with the new 2010 ONEs.

Initial Impressions: From my experience - The new MC's have a much better "feel" than the old MC's - most likely due to the relocated lever pivot point. Modulation is smooth and even with a SOLID end-stroke feel at the lever. ZERO sponginess whatsoever. Full-lock is well-defined without feeling vague. Haven't worn the pads down so I'm not sure if I'll miss the PCS but time will tell. The reach adjuster can be accessed via a 2mm hex screw located above the pivot point and inside the curvature of the lever. This adjuster has detents in it which is nice. My guess this is to ensure precise adjustment and so the screw won't back out under riding conditions.

 

[bullcrew]

Did a 3 hour hike-a-bike yesterday with the new 2010 ONEs.

Initial Impressions: From my experience - The new MC's have a much better "feel" than the old MC's - most likely due to the relocated lever pivot point. Modualtion is smooth and even with a SOLID end-stroke feel at the lever. ZERO sponginess whatsoever. Full-lock is well-defined without feeling vague. Haven't worn the pads down so I'm not sure if I'll miss the PCS but time will tell. The reach adjuster can be accessed via a 2mm hex screw located above the pivot point and inside the curvature of the lever. This adjuster has detents in it which is nice. My guess this is to ensure precise adjustment and so the screw won't back out under riding conditions.

I took my front and bled it, removed the caliper from the bike pulled the pads and depressed the lever a bit to get it to come out a fraction. Proceeded to bleed from top/bottom capped bottom filled top depressed lever a little and topped off. Unhooked filler put screw back in and ZERO lever throw when installed, pried a screw driver between the pads to get it on the rotor to mount it, got it on backed the screw at caliper out and let it bleed off then depressed lever to liking and held it down put screw back in and now its fast engagement but no so close I have rotor rub or expansion issues and the calipers close automatically.

THe perfect bleed!!! Really easy to do Ill have the first 4k single track run tomorrow (shuttle) atleast twice to getr a really good feel for them...
Good times

 

[al-irl]

4k single track run tomorrow (shuttle) atleast twice to getr a really good feel for them...
Good times

Nice wish we had propper mountains

 

[bullcrew]

Nice wish we had propper mountains

Yeah its the 5k marker on a mountain around here, we jump over hte guard rail and drop in... Works pretty good!

Theres a 6k run in kamiah as soon as the top 2k melts we'll shuttle it and theres another alost 6k descent from the fire lookout at slate creek its super steep technical single track. We got lost for over 8 hours in the woods there 2 years ago and finally made it out at 9pm by the river and found the road.
Knocked on some house we found just to scrounge a bite of food and water.
(trees and mountains as far as the eye can see, 300 degrees of wrong direction will be atleast 500+ miles in some direction if you dont head towards canada then its 1000+ before you get anywhere if your lucky)

Ride was supposed to take 1.5 hours LOL yeah didnt bring food, water or anything. That was pretty un-nerving

Major wolf problem here mixed with beginning of season so bears are hungry and tons of mountain lions mixed with badgers in the lower areas and wolverines higher. Then you have the moose that roam there to montanna and they are always in a VERY bad mood.

I cant wait to be back in Socal, Ill take a drive by over a hungry animal and rednecks!!!

 

[al-irl]

You can't beat getting lost in the woods. I like to call them adventures, although due to you having proper mountains yours are a lot more dodge than mine. Getting lost on night rides when theres mist/fog and the trail disappears is my personal favorite. Fortunately we don't have the wild animal problem with a badger being about the worst were going to encounter.

 

[buckoW]

Hey Bullcrew,

I bleed mine the same way as you described. Works well for me too.

 

[Dox]

I've just spotted these in the 2011 Rocky mountain slayer Pinkbike article.
2011 the one back with both adjuster?

 

[bullcrew]

I've just spotted these in the 2011 Rocky mountain slayer Pinkbike article.
2011 the one back with both adjuster?

Im a bit tired but I dont see the pad contact adjuster I do see the lever throw has a knob!
well 1 knob so far maybe we will get the other soon enough....

Good find by the way!

Oh maybe the gold barel adjuster at the line input,,,HMMMM that could be sweet and easy to adjust on the fly!

Ill give you some THE ONE rep!

 

[Huck Banzai]

Saints for the less expensive, more powerful, more consistent, better modulating win!

healthy #2 for the pricey Formulas fo-sheezy, but take a loss beyotch!


G'head blingsters, get to tha justification!

 

[Lelandjt]

Oh maybe the gold barrel adjuster at the line input.

Yep, like Elixers.

Edit: Now I don't regret waiting another year to get them.

 

[Dox]

Im a bit tired but I dont see the pad contact adjuster I do see the lever throw has a knob!
well 1 knob so far maybe we will get the other soon enough....

Good find by the way!

Oh maybe the gold barel adjuster at the line input,,,HMMMM that could be sweet and easy to adjust on the fly!

Ill give you some THE ONE rep!

Thanks, I'm pretty sure the knob on the lever is the lever reach adjuster and the gold barrel at the line input must be the pad contact one.

 

[Trekrules]

Thanks, I'm pretty sure the knob on the lever is the lever reach adjuster and the gold barrel at the line input must be the pad contact one.

Maybe that gold barrel will be their FCS adjuster i think?.

 

[Bmt67Stang]

Anybody having issues with the new levers?? I installed my new "One's" and trimmed the brake lines without a single problem. I wanted to touch up the bleed and get the small bubble created by cutting the line so I bled the rear in about 1 minute for a perfect feeling lever. As I started the front, I realized air was being sucked in from somewhere. Initially i thought it was the cheap plastic syringe or the o-ring seal on the bleed fitting.... but it wasn't. As I listened closely I heard air being sucked in from the between the bar and where the lever sits against the bar. So I pulled the lever off the bar and it was quite obvious back cover wasn't sealed allowing air to pass in and out. Im sure formula will take care of it, they have always been great. Just curious if anyone has had the same issue?

 

[bullcrew]

Anybody having issues with the new levers?? I installed my new "One's" and trimmed the brake lines without a single problem. I wanted to touch up the bleed and get the small bubble created by cutting the line so I bled the rear in about 1 minute for a perfect feeling lever. As I started the front, I realized air was being sucked in from somewhere. Initially i thought it was the cheap plastic syringe or the o-ring seal on the bleed fitting.... but it wasn't. As I listened closely I heard air being sucked in from the between the bar and where the lever sits against the bar. So I pulled the lever off the bar and it was quite obvious back cover wasn't sealed allowing air to pass in and out. Im sure formula will take care of it, they have always been great. Just curious if anyone has had the same issue?

No issues Im aware of theres alot of guys riding R1s which have the same rear and theres a few guys riding the new ONES myself included with no issues. Can you tighten it I beleive its for the rebuilding process so its meant to be opened which means you should be able to mack a wrench of it and tighten it. Im sure its just a screw type cap..

 

[Bmt67Stang]

No issues Im aware of theres alot of guys riding R1s which have the same rear and theres a few guys riding the new ONES myself included with no issues. Can you tighten it I beleive its for the rebuilding process so its meant to be opened which means you should be able to mack a wrench of it and tighten it. Im sure its just a screw type cap..

I am thinking you are right.... and I was tempted, but these things are brand new not one ride on them so I am planning on taking it to Formula at Sea Otter and let them take a look to see what the deal is before I start smashing on them and avoid any potential battle over who took them apart.... and what has been done to them..etc!

 

[bullcrew]

I am thinking you are right.... and I was tempted, but these things are brand new not one ride on them so I am planning on taking it to Formula at Sea Otter and let them take a look to see what the deal is before I start smashing on them and avoid any potential battle over who took them apart.... and what has been done to them..etc!

Yeah if you can take them to them there do it... I figured you were shipping them in... Let us know if in fact that was the case...

 

[frorider]

Thanks, I'm pretty sure the knob on the lever is the lever reach adjuster and the gold barrel at the line input must be the pad contact one.

yup. Here's what formulausa told me about that barrel adjuster:

On the record the new FCS will be backward compatible with the 2010 brakes.

it's still in proto stage right now.

 

[bullcrew]

yup. Here's what formulausa told me about that barrel adjuster:



it's still in proto stage right now.

You rock Im adding it to mine when its available... Thanks

 

[Bmt67Stang]

Yeah if you can take them to them there do it... I figured you were shipping them in... Let us know if in fact that was the case...

Just wanted to update on the result. Took the brakes to formula and they immediately took care of them. It was a total fluke with the rear seal leaking air. Anyways Charlie, who was expecting me to show up at the booth, was awesome and resealed the cover and gave me a fresh bleed. Rode the brakes the next day and they were awesome!!

 

[Dhracer3]

Super light... super strong.. great feeling brake..

 

[bullcrew]

Just wanted to update on the result. Took the brakes to formula and they immediately took care of them. It was a total fluke with the rear seal leaking air. Anyways Charlie, who was expecting me to show up at the booth, was awesome and resealed the cover and gave me a fresh bleed. Rode the brakes the next day and they were awesome!!

Thats good to hear and good for them on the CS thats awesome.... Thanks for keeping us posted and glas its a fluke I didnt think it was something serious or it would have ignited a E-wildfire LOL

 

[IH8Rice]

are the Formula caliper adapters any different from a Sram or any other brand?

 

[Lelandjt]

No. Just buy the lightest adapters, regardless of brand*. They're all the same.

*Sorry, I don't know who makes the lightest.

 

[IH8Rice]

dont care about weight. just trying to figure out if for some reason you need to use their adapters. i have a ton of extras and dont want to buy anymore

thanks

 

[karpi]

I had a problem fitting my 2010 megas on a standard 160mm to 200mm (6-8) adapter. The upper bolt would hit some part of the caliper. In the end, I just grinded the bolt done, took me about 10 minutes and now its flawless

 

[IH8Rice]

In the end, I just grinded the bolt done, took me about 10 minutes and now its flawless

i remember the good ol' days when grinding metal was a part of DHing

 

[IH8Rice]

has anyone installed the new F.C.S. on the 2010 levers? i have to cut my lines and figured id add these while the hoses are disconnected.

 

[Eastern States Cup]

has anyone installed the new F.C.S. on the 2010 levers? i have to cut my lines and figured id add these while the hoses are disconnected.

Geoff sent his into Formula

 

[no skid marks]

I've installed them. They make the job of making the brakes feel right much easier. Shame they're so heavy. I currently just have it on the rear brakes on my bikes, figuring I could just make them feel the same as the front, but I'll put them on the front soon, so they're adjustable too.

 

[Eastern States Cup]

Shame they're so heavy.

Are you serious?