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2015 Intense Tracer 275 Alloy Pro fork replacement

I have done all of this stuff before, but not for a while and not with a tapered steerer tube. As y'all may have noted, I plan and neurose a lot up front.

Cane Creek says to install the crown race by tightening the top bolt, effectively using the headset itself as a press: https://canecreek.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-headsets/ - new to me as a procedure.
 
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Adventurous

Starshine Bro
Mar 19, 2014
10,323
8,880
Crawlorado
How many miles would you reckon the old one had on it before giving it up? I seem to recall you do fairly regular maintenance; curious to know what a realistic lifespan for these things is.
 
How many miles would you reckon the old one had on it before giving it up? I seem to recall you do fairly regular maintenance; curious to know what a realistic lifespan for these things is.
I really have no idea. The bike's been ridden in NC, AZ, NM, PA, NJ, VT, DE, MD, and many other places. The fork has had annual rebuilds and has never given me any grief. I crash a lot, no idea if that has had any effect.
 

6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
15,942
13,192
How many miles would you reckon the old one had on it before giving it up? I seem to recall you do fairly regular maintenance; curious to know what a realistic lifespan for these things is.
My Pike is a 2014 and still fine - albeit it's had an upgraded air spring a few years ago and I put the latest damper in it last year. Lowers service most years and full rebuild once or twice.

You're well aware of the riding we do.
 

6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
15,942
13,192
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Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
54,398
20,188
Sleazattle
Not being anodized you will want to use plenty of grease or antisieze, especially with the axle if you do not remove it regularly. Mine like to bind up with the hub spacers.
 
Not being anodized you will want to use plenty of grease or antisieze, especially with the axle if you do not remove it regularly. Mine like to bind up with the hub spacers.
Yeah, wouldn't mind having anodized. I still have the Mountain Racing Products/MRP Better Boost hub conversion kit coming tomorrow, I had these machined since someone said they might not work. With some luck, I may have the whole mess together tomorrow, at which point I have nowhere to ride it for a while.
 

slimshady

¡Mira, una ardilla!
Here's original factory setup with the Pike:
View attachment 171537
If you look elsewhere, the hose goes inside the left leg:


Actually, I don't think there's a single fork in the market designed to route the brake hose on the outside.
 
If you look elsewhere, the hose goes inside the left leg:


Actually, I don't think there's a single fork in the market designed to route the brake hose on the outside.
I'll look at it.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
20,442
19,450
Canaderp
It all depends who you ask... I'd agree though, route it on the inside. Less chance of the line getting pinched against the lowers. Chances are you'll be fine, but shit happens.

There is a Giant shop local to here that routes the front brake hose on the outside of every bike they build. Not sure if they are shipped like that or what.
 

slimshady

¡Mira, una ardilla!
I've always routed the hose on the inside, because as @canadmos said, it protects it from getting gabbed by branches/rocks/whatever. In my experience, if the hose is long enough, there's no real stress on the connector at the the caliper. And if the hose has a banjo, you can improve its entry angle.

I have seen a hose ripped off the caliper by a tree, and once during a short shuttle up the mountain in the back of a truck a friend's brake hose was destroyed when the rear axle of another friend's bike ground it up due to the truck's movement. I grant you the bikes weren't stored in the best possible way, but still the hose was much more exposed this way.

EDIT: Most of the brake install instructions also specify the hose should be routed inside:

 
I've always routed the hose on the inside, because as @canadmos said, it protects it from getting gabbed by branches/rocks/whatever. In my experience, if the hose is long enough, there's no real stress on the connector at the the caliper. And if the hose has a banjo, you can improve its entry angle.

I have seen a hose ripped off the caliper by a tree, and once during a short shuttle up the mountain in the back of a truck a friend's brake hose was destroyed when the rear axle of another friend's bike ground it up due to the truck's movement. I grant you the bikes weren't stored in the best possible way, but still the hose was much more exposed this way.

EDIT: Most of the brake install instructions also specify the hose should be routed inside:

I rejiggered it, we'll see how it goes.
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