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40lb post! DH/FR Rigs around the 40lb mark! tips, pics, specs

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Cyklist

Chimp
Feb 15, 2010
17
0
Very lightened chainguide. :)

Will probably be a while til more pics, waiting for some stuff to arrive over the next few weeks.

But here's a pic taken some weeks ago. At that moment it was down to 13,99kg (30,84lbs) and that's with Swampthings.
 

mtbman1127

Monkey
Mar 10, 2008
243
0
Raleigh, NC
Very lightened chainguide. :)

Will probably be a while til more pics, waiting for some stuff to arrive over the next few weeks.

But here's a pic taken some weeks ago. At that moment it was down to 13,99kg (30,84lbs) and that's with Swampthings.
Do you have the Bontrager XXXlite foam grips on that?...how do those work for you
 

spocomptonrider

sportin' the CROCS
Nov 30, 2007
1,412
118
spokanistan
Nice aren't these pics somewhere else? Too light for my. taste and where I ride. It would bounce me around like a ping pong ball
The pics are up on NSMB on the light bike thread. I don't think the guys over at e13 would be too stoked to see the chain guide but who cares really. Its surprisingly legit considering how light it is, coil suspension all around, dh tires, etc. A lot of us could never get away with such a light build but its what pushes manufacturers to keep producing more and more light weight product.
 

Cyklist

Chimp
Feb 15, 2010
17
0
A speclist will come once the build is finished.

As for the chain guide, I couldn't really care less about what they'd think about it. I've owned several e13 guides and don't have any plans on running any other brand since my personal opinion is that they are the best.
On this build however I ran into clearance issues when using a modified XT crankset, and the same thing with XTR. So I was left with no other choice than removing the taco and make another setup for the bottom idler.
In addition to that I'm really trying to push the limits on this build, and every gram counts. So I sipmly made it as light as I could.


Sure not everyone can get away with a bike that light. As always rider weight and riding style comes into the equation. However there aren't any really sketchy parts on there, I rode all of last season on a similar setup. It's all about choosing your parts with care, attention to detail and some tuning.


Oh and it's XXX Lite's, yes. I haven't had any time on them yet and it's a bit hard to test them in wet conditions since it's -15*C outside. :)
They do seem to fit tighter than any other foam grip I've come across, and will for sure work perfectly when it's dry.
I actually put the bar/grip in a bucket of water for some minutes after I put them on and they didn't seem to slip. Still, that hardly equals a full day of riding in the rain so we'll see.
 
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spocomptonrider

sportin' the CROCS
Nov 30, 2007
1,412
118
spokanistan
A speclist will come once the build is finished.

As for the chain guide, I couldn't really care less about what they'd think about it. I've owned several e13 guides and don't have any plans on running any other brand since my personal opinion is that they are the best.
On this build however I ran into clearance issues when using a modified XT crankset, and the same thing with XTR. So I was left with no other choice than removing the taco and make another setup for the bottom idler.
In addition to that I'm really trying to push the limits on this build, and every gram counts. So I sipmly made it as light as I could.


Sure not everyone can get away with a bike that light. As always rider weight and riding style comes into the equation. However there aren't any really sketchy parts on there, I rode all of last season on a similar setup. It's all about choosing your parts with care, attention to detail and some tuning.


Oh and it's XXX Lite's, yes. I haven't had any time on them yet and it's a bit hard to test them in wet conditions since it's -15*C outside. :)
They do seem to fit tighter than any other foam grip I've come across, and will for sure work perfectly when it's dry.
I actually put the bar/grip in a bucket of water for some minutes after I put them on and they didn't seem to slip. Still, that hardly equals a full day of riding in the rain so we'll see.
Wasn't calling your setup sketch at all, if anything its one of the most legit light builds I have ever seen. As for the chain guide, in my post I said who really cares, if it works for you run that shiz! Its cool to see all the places that you have saved weight.
 

mtbman1127

Monkey
Mar 10, 2008
243
0
Raleigh, NC
just spray some carbogrip on the inside of those grips and they will never slip....gettting them off might be a fun challenge but you shouldn't have any problems while they are on the bike.

What spring/weight are you running and what is your weight....i just got a session and i'm still in the process of setting it up and would like to go with a Ti spring.
 

Cyklist

Chimp
Feb 15, 2010
17
0
Wasn't calling your setup sketch at all, if anything its one of the most legit light builds I have ever seen. As for the chain guide, in my post I said who really cares, if it works for you run that shiz! Its cool to see all the places that you have saved weight.
Oh no worries man, on both points I just wanted to give a comment and an explanation! :)
Glad you like it, I'll make sure I give all the details and small good stuff when the build is finished!


mtbman: Yeah I've thought of something like that. It's just that I wanted to do some proper testing first, so that maybe it won't be a pain in the ass to get them off.
I'm still a little uncertain about setup since the RC4 sure seems to require a slightly softer spring than the DHX5,0. Trek's recommended spring rate is too hard for me at least, that's for sure.
So I'd really like to have put some time on the bike before giving any tips on that. Hopefully you can try with some different spring rates or find someone who's ridden the bike a bit more with the RC4.
 
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William42

fork ways
Jul 31, 2007
4,014
775
if that bike still works in a year, and has the same parts on it, please dear god post pictures and proof and make everybody ragging on it eat their own words.

Until then, count me in on the group ragging on it, I just don't see a 30lb bike holding up to DH, I've bent DH specific cranks before, and I just don't see cranks that weigh half that holding up real well.

But I bet it will be incredibly fun to ride for the first couple rides until you start breaking stuff. I'd love to ride it and try and break it!
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,860
7,108
borcester rhymes
I have to agree, to a degree. If you're light enough, or don't ride technical trails, I don't see any reason you couldn't get away with lighter wheelsets or tires and such. My biggest concern with a bike like that is the quality of life aspect.

Foam grips? Seriously? One wreck and they're trashed. A little rain and you've got dual throttle action. Road saddle? Looks great, weighs nothing...one wreck and it's shattered, four days of riding and the sides have worn off...no thigh support, uncomfortable to sit on... Things like that make me say "why bother" and stick with the heavier steel versions that can take a tumble.

I'd really love to see it last a season, and I'd like to see the spec list too...not that I doubt it ways that little, I just want to see what's on it.
 

xy9ine

Turbo Monkey
Mar 22, 2004
2,940
353
vancouver eastside
Oh and it's XXX Lite's, yes. I haven't had any time on them yet and it's a bit hard to test them in wet conditions since it's -15*C outside. :)
They do seem to fit tighter than any other foam grip I've come across, and will for sure work perfectly when it's dry.
I actually put the bar/grip in a bucket of water for some minutes after I put them on and they didn't seem to slip. Still, that hardly equals a full day of riding in the rain so we'll see.
have you tried esi silicone grips? silly light & they stay stuck (regardless of conditions) with no need for special installation or adhesives. nice tacky grip too.

i think your build rocks (from what i've seen), btw. intelligent & sexy. looks fully capable without dodgy compromises (and i still see places to safely shave grams here & there). inspirational. looking forward to seeing the final iteration. cheers!
 

Cyklist

Chimp
Feb 15, 2010
17
0
Thanks for the words.

IH8rice: Definitely not, it's built for riding and since the off-season actually means no riding over here in Sweden were I live I get plenty of spare time to build my bike and fine tune things.
I don't like flashy paintjobs or such at all, as a matter of fact I even custom painted my old Tazer VP matte black. Every single thing on it.
It's always fun to discuss bikes though, hence posting it up.

Sandwich: Foam grips, yeah. Had them laying around and thought I'd give it a try. Depending on what gloves you wear they feel good, and if you read my post above I said I'm gonna do some more testing. It would still be sub 31 with lock-ons so is that really worth complaining on?
It's not a road saddle, it's just a regular I-fly. Lots of people use it, and since I almost only ride lift access I don't have to sit on it for long. I-beam seats have proven to be plenty strong. And this year it's stripped, so don't worry about scratching the sides of it. ;)


So for you and William, here's the build I rode last season. Only issues were dents in the rear rim and a bent derailleur hanger. I mostly ride a lift acessed mountain with everything from A-line style tracks to full on rocky dh race tracks.
Sorry I don't have any good pics of me riding rockgardens but here's a pic just to show that I do use my bikes. Not to boast, just so you know I actually ride. :)
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/3349/dsc0050e.jpg

14,63kg/32,25lbs (You may ignore the low seat and steel spring in the pic)


(14,64 in this pic with uncut seat post)


Speclist:
Frame: Trek Session 88 DH size M
Rearshock: Fox DHX 5,0 with Obtainium spring
Fork: Boxxer WC 2010
Headset: CaneCreek
Topcap etc: Carbon cap with alu bolt and Point One Racing spacer
Stem: Point One Racing DM Limited Edition (ti hardware)
Handlebar: Truvativ Holzfeller WC custom polished
Grips: Pro XCR lock-on
Shifting: X.0
Cable: Shimano Yumeya
Cassette: 7-speed DuraAce
Chain: KMC X9 SL
Chainring: E.13 36t
Chainguide: E:13 LG1+
Crankset: Customized Shimano XT
Pedals: Wellgo MG1 with ti-axle
Seat: SDG I-fly
Post: SDG carbon with ti-bolt
Frontbrake: Avid Elixir CR
Rearbrake: Avid Elixir CR with ti caliper and adaptor bolts
Rotors: Formula R1 with Hope ti bolts
Frontwheel: Mavic Crossmax SX
Rearwheel: Hope Pro II, DT Swiss Supercomp spokes and alu nipples, NoTubes ZTR Flow
Tires: Maxxis Minion DHF 2,5 UST

xy9ine: Thanks! Yeah I can't wait to get it finished either, haha.

Phew, monster long post.
 

quickneonrt

Turbo Monkey
Apr 8, 2003
1,611
0
Staten Island NY
I thought my Double was light at 30lbs. Good job but I would be affraid to hit the Jersey rockgardens with it.

As for the seat the I-fly is fine, I have run the I-fly with alum i-beam post and the Ti-Fly with a Thompson post. both saddles take a beating. Like he said on a dh bike that is usually ridden lift assisted how often do you actually sit? The seat actually is not that uncomfortable I also ride the I-Fly on my SS xc bike and my Commencal Absolut 4x
 

slowmtb

Monkey
Aug 17, 2008
216
0
ChurChur, NZ
Thanks for the words.

IH8rice: Definitely not, it's built for riding and since the off-season actually means no riding over here in Sweden were I live I get plenty of spare time to build my bike and fine tune things.
I don't like flashy paintjobs or such at all, as a matter of fact I even custom painted my old Tazer VP matte black. Every single thing on it.
It's always fun to discuss bikes though, hence posting it up.

Sandwich: Foam grips, yeah. Had them laying around and thought I'd give it a try. Depending on what gloves you wear they feel good, and if you read my post above I said I'm gonna do some more testing. It would still be sub 31 with lock-ons so is that really worth complaining on?
It's not a road saddle, it's just a regular I-fly. Lots of people use it, and since I almost only ride lift access I don't have to sit on it for long. I-beam seats have proven to be plenty strong. And this year it's stripped, so don't worry about scratching the sides of it. ;)


So for you and William, here's the build I rode last season. Only issues were dents in the rear rim and a bent derailleur hanger. I mostly ride a lift acessed mountain with everything from A-line style tracks to full on rocky dh race tracks.
Sorry I don't have any good pics of me riding rockgardens but here's a pic just to show that I do use my bikes. Not to boast, just so you know I actually ride. :)
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/3349/dsc0050e.jpg

14,63kg/32,25lbs (You may ignore the low seat and steel spring in the pic)


(14,64 in this pic with uncut seat post)


Speclist:
Frame: Trek Session 88 DH size M
Rearshock: Fox DHX 5,0 with Obtainium spring
Fork: Boxxer WC 2010
Headset: CaneCreek
Topcap etc: Carbon cap with alu bolt and Point One Racing spacer
Stem: Point One Racing DM Limited Edition (ti hardware)
Handlebar: Truvativ Holzfeller WC custom polished
Grips: Pro XCR lock-on
Shifting: X.0
Cable: Shimano Yumeya
Cassette: 7-speed DuraAce
Chain: KMC X9 SL
Chainring: E.13 36t
Chainguide: E:13 LG1+
Crankset: Customized Shimano XT
Pedals: Wellgo MG1 with ti-axle
Seat: SDG I-fly
Post: SDG carbon with ti-bolt
Frontbrake: Avid Elixir CR
Rearbrake: Avid Elixir CR with ti caliper and adaptor bolts
Rotors: Formula R1 with Hope ti bolts
Frontwheel: Mavic Crossmax SX
Rearwheel: Hope Pro II, DT Swiss Supercomp spokes and alu nipples, NoTubes ZTR Flow
Tires: Maxxis Minion DHF 2,5 UST

xy9ine: Thanks! Yeah I can't wait to get it finished either, haha.

Phew, monster long post.
Cyklist - nice build, I like it. Why should anyone give a shiat how long it lasts, it is not their bike. It is YOUR bike, do what you want with it, something breaks then go buy another - simple :thumb:
Would be really curious to see how those parts do hold up though, might give some others an insight into some gear they dismissed for a build :)
 

Capricorn

Monkey
Jan 9, 2010
425
0
Cape Town, ZA
the session 88 is a DH worthy frame. the drive train might be roady, but everything breaks anyway,and some of those roady drive train components pretty much take an equal beating in teh rough as the 'DH' quality stuff, and still go back for more.
Only components that will definitely buy the farm, or rather are most likely to get killed in the gnar, are those rims. But if he runs high enough pressures, might last longer than he had imagined.
pretty stoked to ride a bike that light, but thta will require a frame upgrade on my side. :(
 

davep

Turbo Monkey
Jan 7, 2005
3,276
0
seattle
Remove the bearing tension assembly and BB spacers. Then you can have a $400+ dollar set of cranks to bend and tear the threads out...and a crappy chainline (or the inability to run a bash).

XTs are easier with the spacer on the touring cranks, however the chainline still sucks, the chainline is 'off' in the opposite direction that you would want on a DH bike, and they will last essentially one good pedal hit.
 

Tamo

Chimp
Jan 16, 2009
59
0
Sweden
Would be really curious to see how those parts do hold up though, might give some others an insight into some gear they dismissed for a build :)
He just said he rode all season long with that setup and the only thing "broken" was a few dents in the rear rim and a bent der hanger..

Only components that will definitely buy the farm, or rather are most likely to get killed in the gnar, are those rims.
Me too rode flow rims last season with no problems at all.

About the xtr mod im going to post a "how to" soon.
 

al-irl

Turbo Monkey
Dec 9, 2004
1,086
0
A, A
what do you need to run a bash for. If your concerned enough to mod xtr cranks your gonna be running a lightweight guide with an inbuilt taco style bash guard.
 

davep

Turbo Monkey
Jan 7, 2005
3,276
0
seattle
WOW, this place is going down hill FAST.

I could care less what the OP is running. If at least one of you would actually read the post, Nugget asked about how one would put XTs or XTRs on an 83mm BB. I was stupid enough apparently to answer his question, including the shortcommings of such a set-up. This has NOTHING to do with the OP or his bike.
Chainline is actually important to people who pay for parts. The ability to run a bash might be significant to someone, depending on many factors like frame, ISCG mounts, spider strength (or lack there of), etc.

You guys have become so concerned about defending your underbuild DH bikes, that you cannot even digest a simple post containing 100% truth without lashing out...

IT MAY BE CHALLENGING, BUT PLEASE READ BEFORE YOU POST!!!!!!!!!!
 
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i think to run these "shorter" spindle XC cranks, does one need to face your BB shell pretty significantly? but i guess significant is all relative, to get from 83 to 73mm, its just a matter of 5 millimeters on each side. and with regards to chainline, can't just one use chainring spacers, and space it to whatever you want?