The differences worth the extra 100+ bucks? Not a weight weenie, so I don't care if they're 60 grams heavier or lighter. And I wouldn't get the red knobbie thing...
Is it possible the only reason you thought the code 5's were not as grabby could be because with the reg codes you actually have the "option" to adjust them that way?I have the Code 5 on the front of my SXT. Love it. much power much control. It doesnt feel as "grabby" as the CODE.
i am pretty sure that the only diffrences are that the codes have the lever reach adjustment and the brake away cam.... the code 5 is just a juice 3 lever body... i could be wrong
Code 5 has Juicy 5 levers, not 3. Hence the name Code 5....
I was in the same situation, and went with the regular Codes and am glad I did. The break away arms aren't a must, but the pad adjuster is nice to have just for ease of use. It isn't a deal breaker IMO, but since I got them for close to the same price it was worth it.
Although on the '08 carbon's you get all that the codes offer in a more attractive price and with DOT 5.1 fluid in the system so it doesn't boil so quickly as the DOT 4 that the codes useIf you don't mind that the 5's don't have the pad adjuster knob then you can work with the 5's.
Personally I'm using the straight codes because they bring me much more control of the response on the bike's braking altogether.
For instance my rear brakes are engaging earlier on the lever and biting harder than my front ones and I'm changing this (if needed) for a different type of terrain.
You can't have that with the 5's but
It's not that easy. dot5.1 is made out of a different blend, has other characteristics, and is thinner than 4 or 3... unless the brake states that it can be used with 5.1 it is better to stick to the othersyeah but you could just get the normal codes and change them to DOT 5.1, right?
wUrd. I got hope m4. Got 5.1 in the front, 4 in the rear. Never boil either, and I'm 210 or so with gear, 4 mile decents. Also, Did one of the decents with no front brake.....Boy that rear got hot, but didn't really fade much. And anyone can tell you, I grab my brakes more than I should.Who can honestly say they've ever boiled brake fluid in a bicycle brake anyway? The pads are totally rooted long before that ever happens.
I used to really think the whole heat factor was highly over exaggerated. Last year I slid the rear out and caught a down strip of yellow tape. Rolled it up in my rotor. Within seconds it melted it into the most perfect caliper sliders ever. No rear brake. I quickly realized HOW MUCH I used my brakes, and also how much I needed them to turn. So I quickly learned within 30 feet of a STEEP double chicane that I brake too much and sheet gets HOT! And I have to work on my technique...wUrd. I got hope m4. Got 5.1 in the front, 4 in the rear. Never boil either, and I'm 210 or so with gear, 4 mile decents. Also, Did one of the decents with no front brake.....Boy that rear got hot, but didn't really fade much. And anyone can tell you, I grab my brakes more than I should.
My understanding, besides the boiling points is the fact that 5.1 isn't as prone to absorbing water...which is critical here in the NW.
The manual states that Codes can use 5.1, you just have to flush out the system first.
Oh I'm not saying they don't get hot. AFter I lost my front brake and did two runs (and a stuck down 66sl >:O) those brakes were f-ing hot. I had to adjust my chain tensioner and brushed up against the rotor and my finger actually got like a first degree burn, but they still worked fine, thats my point.I used to really think the whole heat factor was highly over exaggerated. Last year I slid the rear out and caught a down strip of yellow tape. Rolled it up in my rotor. Within seconds it melted it into the most perfect caliper sliders ever. No rear brake. I quickly realized HOW MUCH I used my brakes, and also how much I needed them to turn. So I quickly learned within 30 feet of a STEEP double chicane that I brake too much and sheet gets HOT! And I have to work on my technique...