The differences worth the extra 100+ bucks? Not a weight weenie, so I don't care if they're 60 grams heavier or lighter. And I wouldn't get the red knobbie thing...
Codes vs Code 5s?
- Thread starter DirtEveryDay
- Start date
Well they both weight the same for 08 models just the codes are more expensive and stronger. I have codes, there amazing. I am guessing code 5's are really good too just not as beefy.
Well if they are anything like the Juicy brakes, you really won't notice a huge performance difference between models. I've run Juicy 7's and I've got Juicy 3's on my XC bike right now and they both feel about the same. It's just minor differences, i.e. no power adjuster and no split-clamp lever (although both Code's and Code 5's have that......if they ever make Code 3's I assume they would loose the split-clamp lever).
the only differences is the reb knob, easier lever adjustment, thats all. im pretty sure power is the same, i cooould be wrong, but i dont think so
Is it possible the only reason you thought the code 5's were not as grabby could be because with the reg codes you actually have the "option" to adjust them that way?
From what I've read in my window shopping, the breakaway cam and the adjuster is what closes the deal for me.
are probebly a super deal.
Aren't the code5 calipers alloy instead of magnesium regular codes?
code mc has a bearing pivot as well... some people think that makes a diff (i haven't used one myself).
-r
-r
is code 5 where magnesium, I'd bet they'd be the best option between power and weight, but since it's not... I'll stick to my formulas
If you don't mind that the 5's don't have the pad adjuster knob then you can work with the 5's.
Personally I'm using the straight codes because they bring me much more control of the response on the bike's braking altogether.
For instance my rear brakes are engaging earlier on the lever and biting harder than my front ones and I'm changing this (if needed) for a different type of terrain.
You can't have that with the 5's but
Personally I'm using the straight codes because they bring me much more control of the response on the bike's braking altogether.
For instance my rear brakes are engaging earlier on the lever and biting harder than my front ones and I'm changing this (if needed) for a different type of terrain.
You can't have that with the 5's but
Although on the '08 carbon's you get all that the codes offer in a more attractive price and with DOT 5.1 fluid in the system so it doesn't boil so quickly as the DOT 4 that the codes useIf you don't mind that the 5's don't have the pad adjuster knob then you can work with the 5's.
Personally I'm using the straight codes because they bring me much more control of the response on the bike's braking altogether.
For instance my rear brakes are engaging earlier on the lever and biting harder than my front ones and I'm changing this (if needed) for a different type of terrain.
You can't have that with the 5's but
yeah but you could just get the normal codes and change them to DOT 5.1, right?
It's not that easy. dot5.1 is made out of a different blend, has other characteristics, and is thinner than 4 or 3... unless the brake states that it can be used with 5.1 it is better to stick to the others
wUrd. I got hope m4. Got 5.1 in the front, 4 in the rear. Never boil either, and I'm 210 or so with gear, 4 mile decents. Also, Did one of the decents with no front brake.....Boy that rear got hot, but didn't really fade much. And anyone can tell you, I grab my brakes more than I should.
My understanding, besides the boiling points is the fact that 5.1 isn't as prone to absorbing water...which is critical here in the NW.
The manual states that Codes can use 5.1, you just have to flush out the system first.
The manual states that Codes can use 5.1, you just have to flush out the system first.
Well, there may be much to be said about the bearings over bushings in the lever blade. My Maguras are getting that squeaky groaning noise when you squeeze the lever. Can't notice it when the fullface is on and the wind is screaming through, but I stuck the brake on my street rig for a night and about converted to brakeless! But, once again, Astroglide saves the night!
Oh, and one more question, for comparison purposes: Anyone on Codes now ever run Louise FRs? How they fair? I've loved them up till now, but my last race was steep, twisty, and fast and they seemed to be a little less stoked about it. And they're about due for a total refurbishing... So I gotta choose how to spend the money.
Oh, and one more question, for comparison purposes: Anyone on Codes now ever run Louise FRs? How they fair? I've loved them up till now, but my last race was steep, twisty, and fast and they seemed to be a little less stoked about it. And they're about due for a total refurbishing... So I gotta choose how to spend the money.
I used to really think the whole heat factor was highly over exaggerated. Last year I slid the rear out and caught a down strip of yellow tape. Rolled it up in my rotor. Within seconds it melted it into the most perfect caliper sliders ever. No rear brake. I quickly realized HOW MUCH I used my brakes, and also how much I needed them to turn. So I quickly learned within 30 feet of a STEEP double chicane that I brake too much and sheet gets HOT! And I have to work on my technique...
Hey...I just derailed my own thread....
Back onto Codes...!
Back onto Codes...!
a) if your system is sealed, water won't be getting into your brake fluid anyway. If no fluid is leaking out, no water is getting in.
b) DOT fluid is specifically designed to dissolve both air and water. Sounds retarded? It's actually not - the reason it does this is because air and water molecules dissolved at a molecular level do NOT boil or affect (measurably) the elasticity of the fluid. DOT fluid (3, 4, 5.1) is soluble with an immense amount of water (like 40% or something by volume!) and while yes that amount does change the boiling point, the fractions of a percent water by volume that you MIGHT get in a MTB brake are going to do approximately SFA.
Oh I'm not saying they don't get hot. AFter I lost my front brake and did two runs (and a stuck down 66sl >:O) those brakes were f-ing hot. I had to adjust my chain tensioner and brushed up against the rotor and my finger actually got like a first degree burn, but they still worked fine, thats my point.
I wasn't responding to anything...just babbling. Too much turkey I think...
I ran code 5's with Dot 5.1 which they recommended love the brakes I also scored a pair of Code levers cheap so I threw them on for the pad adjustment makes a diff in my opinion, I love the Codes great modulation and they stop my 240lb ass on a dime. But if you dont want to mess around with the pad adjustment just get the Code 5's as far as weight. 08 Code 5's are 476gr for a 160mm setup and 08 Codes Mag are 479gr for a 160mm setup. I would go with Code 5's you can get them for $220 shipped thats a deal, and you can always do the Code levers in the future like I did if you want
Yeah, the under $250 price is what caught my attention, THEN I read up on them! But I don't know what to do with my Maguras... None of you guys have ever run a Louise FR to compare?
Nope no run time on the Louise, But all I can say is the Codes are the SH*T..