[blue]

most factory turbos are wtfsmall anyways, I say if you want to turbo it for anything above like 1psi then your best bet is to get a n/a motor and boost it yourself. Granted, Subaru has vehicles geared for performance so their turbos will probably be larger than most other factory turbos, but you can still get better performance on the N/A model by boosting it yourself.

Then you get the option of turbo size (which affects boost pressure and turbo lag to a degree, larger turbo means more centripetal inertia which means more turbo lag, but you can get higher volumes of air through it once it's spun up) and psi.

99% of the buying public is not going to bolt a turbo to their Outback. Even with a kit from a tuner, it's still a huge PITA for most people, and you will void your warranty. The reason these cars come with small turbos is threefold. Marketing (can't have the grocery-getters outstripping the STi's), reliability, and drivability. Most people could give two ****s how much power their car makes at 5500RPM, they want it at 2000 or before. The 2.5 boxer is a big step up for Subaru being able to market turbo engines to the masses, as with the 2.0 they'd taken a different approach than VW or Volvo had to the market...big turbos, long spool, everyone except teenage fanboi dynopenis no likey.

/durnked.

 

[Red Rabbit]

Now that I think about it, I think it was someone on here who had transmission issues with their Outback. But I could be wrong.

Mine.

I had tranny failure a year ago.

Started with

Taking a long ass time to engage reverse and drive.

Then ended with car stuck on I5

Got a used one for free ( car was going to scrap), And it is plaged with the same issues.

 

[I Are Baboon]

A manual transmission? That would be a first.

I can't remember.

Then it was an automatic. I can virtually guarantee it.

Yup, that was me. I bought a brand new 2004 six cyl Outback wagon in Oct '03 and the automatic transmission had to be replaced after just 8,000 miles. Haven't had a problem with it since!

The only other issue I've had with the car was the throttle position sensor had to be replaced at around 60k miles. The bad sensor was causing the RPM to fluctuate widly when the gears shifted. The actual problem wasn't as frustrating as the three trips I had to make to the dealer to get the problem resolved.

Overall though, I love the car. 4.5 years old, 125k miles, and still going strong. Real good chance I'll buy another one when mine gets older....say, 200k miles.

 

[mobius]

After driving the GTI for a while I thought something was wrong with the front end of the WRX. It wanders down straight roads and feels like the tires are flat during the initial turn in on corners. Once settled into a corner it handles great.

The WRX wagon comes with a smaller then normal sway bar in the rear. Step it up to the 20mm in the back and it will snap around turns a lot faster. This part can be had for like 80 bucks from subarugenuineparts.com

most factory turbos are wtfsmall anyways, I say if you want to turbo it for anything above like 1psi then your best bet is to get a n/a motor and boost it yourself. Granted, Subaru has vehicles geared for performance so their turbos will probably be larger than most other factory turbos, but you can still get better performance on the N/A model by boosting it yourself.

Most people aren't going to wanna tear apart their block and rebuild it with proper internals for turbo.



How did this thread go from a I want a subaru outback to people talking about boosting their cars?

GET THE OUTBACK!

 

[thebornotaku]

Most people aren't going to wanna tear apart their block and rebuild it with proper internals for turbo.

You don't particularly have to do that unless you'll be running higher PSI or your engine block just sucks initially.

But that other guy had a point, even a bolt-on kit would be a pain in the ass for most people. Maybe I just assumed that the OP wasn't "most people" because he's looking at a turbo model.

How did this thread go from a I want a subaru outback to people talking about boosting their cars?

see the word "turbo" in the title? That's how. That and because I am a huge car geek.

The reason these cars come with small turbos is threefold. Marketing (can't have the grocery-getters outstripping the STi's), reliability, and drivability.

...wait, what? Another mechanical device (in this case a Turbocharger) on top of the plethora of stuff already on the car means there's one more thing to go wrong. Granted, factory turbochargers are generally too small and don't push enough boost to do any real damage to anything, but it's still one more thing to go wrong.

Drive-ability is arguable, though. Granted a 2.5L Turbocharged engine will have good get-go, but the torqueband and powerband will suffer in the higher RPM's, and if you have a manaul there's no reason not to get the engine to work to at least more of it's potential.

In this case, a natually aspirated 3.0L would trump a forced induction 2.5L. more displacement means torque is more readily available at all parts of the torqueband, and it comes on smoother (as oppsed to the lump of torque you get when the turbo spools). So a better option for drive-ability wouldn't be an EJ255 (Subaru's 2.5L Turbocharged engine), but an EZ30R (Subaru's 3.0L N/A engine).

Even better, the EZ30R comes in the Outback H6 and the Legacy 3.0R. I don't know if they only come with an autotragic, so that's something to check with the dealer.

Most people could give two ****s how much power their car makes at 5500RPM, they want it at 2000 or before. The 2.5 boxer is a big step up for Subaru being able to market turbo engines to the masses, as with the 2.0 they'd taken a different approach than VW or Volvo had to the market...big turbos, long spool, everyone except teenage fanboi dynopenis no likey.

See above chunk of text, I already addressed this too. =D

 

[stoney]

The turbo needs to be mated to a manual. Have you looked at the H6? It's the 6-cylinder normally aspirated Outback. Very nice. and it might be more of what you are looking for.

Yep, yesterday at noon. Already told him just to get the H6, plus he gets the slush box he wants. Topic done.

 

[Toshi]

thebornotaku, please go back to NASIOC. there's surely a thread about bolt-in fender stiffeners or blow-off valves that will interest you there. suggesting an aftermarket turbo kit to the OP shows a profound lack of comprehension.

/me has been there, done that, and does not wish to repeat the experience

 

[dante]

oooooh, do tell. did something go shooting through the hood of the car????

 

[stoney]

Tosh had a VERY highly modded WRX. It was quite nice until he hyrdo-planed into a divider.

 

[Toshi]

oooooh, do tell. did something go shooting through the hood of the car????

Tosh had a VERY highly modded WRX. It was quite nice until he hyrdo-planed into a divider.

it was quite nice, if nice includes being in the shop over a month straight (on just one instance) as well as it breaking down enough to the point of towing 6 times over a year.

it was the fastest car i'll probably ever own. it's definitely also the worst car i'll own if i even retain a modicum of common sense in the future.

 

[Westy]

thebornotaku, please go back to NASIOC. there's surely a thread about bolt-in fender stiffeners or blow-off valves that will interest you there. suggesting an aftermarket turbo kit to the OP shows a profound lack of comprehension.

/me has been there, done that, and does not wish to repeat the experience

Are you telling me my fenders might not be stiff enough?

 

[Toshi]

Are you telling me my fenders might not be stiff enough?

the fanbois there SWEAR up and down that fender braces lead to improved turn in. they are completely full of it.

 

[MikeD]

Rootbeer fenders are teh stiffest.

 

[Westy]

the fanbois there SWEAR up and down that fender braces lead to improved turn in. they are completely full of it.

Of course. Springs, shocks, geometry and rotational inertia have nothing to do with it. It has to be the fender.


Can they still fit a 3.0" Gazzalodi?

 

[stoney]

Of course. Springs, shocks, geometry and rotational inertia have nothing to do with it. It has to be the fender.


Can they still fit a 3.0" Gazzalodi?

It's actually a brace the tringulates the attachment between the firewall and the front clip. It's hidden behind the fender, hence why people call it a fender brace. It's actually a cowl brace. And when I drove a buddy's WRX after he installed them (not knowing they were installed) my first comment was how much stiffer the front end felt. Whether that is better turn in, I know not. but the front felt crisper.

 

[CBJ]

Rootbeer fenders are teh stiffest.

That made me laugh - reped. Mispelling the made it even better.

 

[thebornotaku]

thebornotaku, please go back to NASIOC. there's surely a thread about bolt-in fender stiffeners or blow-off valves that will interest you there. suggesting an aftermarket turbo kit to the OP shows a profound lack of comprehension.

/me has been there, done that, and does not wish to repeat the experience

blow-off valves make sense (or misfiring systems, take your pick), fender stiffeners are just stupid =p


I was merely saying that if the OP seriously wanted a turbo model and was willing to do the work to get it that using a n/a base model and turboing it from there was an option. If I was making a serious suggestion about getting more power out of a car like that I'd go for a WRX anyways, for a base at least.

 

[glass]

I just drive a regular five speed Forrester and love it's but if its sportiness you want why don't you look into the Cobb Kits available from the dealership? One of the guys in the service dept where I bought mine has a Turbo Forrester thats Cobbed up to (With the chip) 370 horsepower. And if they do the work at the dealership it doesn't void your warranty.