Anyone try this? It looks pretty crappy but I guess it could work.
http://www.recrac.com/bikeRack.html
http://www.recrac.com/bikeRack.html
Rec-Rac
- Thread starter Kntr
- Start date
i wouldnt trust it. Get the yakima stuff it kicks ass.
make a pvc oneKanter said:
Ya, I probably will.lovebunny said:
This is the one I really want but almost $700 with delivery. I can have my local welding shop make me twice the rack for that price.
http://www.scbikeracks.com/detail.php
go with the PVC one. I made mine in under 30 min. No kidding.
If you have a sawzall and a vice, it goes really quick.
If you have a sawzall and a vice, it goes really quick.
I built that same thing as the scbikerack like a year or two ago for $40. Still use it today.
I've built 4 others for other riders as well, different designs, and they work better, I'm just too lazy(busy) to build a new one.
That rec-rac would also only work on fullsize trucks, my Toyota's bedsides don't even come half way up my fork, let alone leave anything for me to clamp in the rear of my Yeti...
The last rack I built was basically just a basket for the front wheel, and another bracket on the tailgate holds/locks the rear wheel in place when you close it. It also acts as a bike stand, when you're stripping gear, you can just pop the front wheel up on the TG and it will sit there until you are ready to load/ride. May someday build one for myself as well. When it's too crappy to ride. Which will have to be pretty crappy.
I've built 4 others for other riders as well, different designs, and they work better, I'm just too lazy(busy) to build a new one.
That rec-rac would also only work on fullsize trucks, my Toyota's bedsides don't even come half way up my fork, let alone leave anything for me to clamp in the rear of my Yeti...
The last rack I built was basically just a basket for the front wheel, and another bracket on the tailgate holds/locks the rear wheel in place when you close it. It also acts as a bike stand, when you're stripping gear, you can just pop the front wheel up on the TG and it will sit there until you are ready to load/ride. May someday build one for myself as well. When it's too crappy to ride. Which will have to be pretty crappy.
Oh, and there's a new one out that acts similar to the one I just built and the SCbikerack, it looks just like the racks outside any bike shop. Just a triangle shape with a bunch of bars coming down. Just roll your bike into it and close the tailgate, looks MUCH cheaper than those crack smokers at scbikeracks.com. Their prices are INSANE, there's like $100 of uselessly over-engineered aluminum there for $700.
I'm working on my 2nd hitch-mounted rack prototype right now. Good thing I'll be farming out the tubing bending for the production ones, I'm turning a lot of tubing into scrap with my skillz...
Sorry no pics yet...but it will be way better than the TS-2! It'll be kind of big and heavy for shipping, but that's the way it goes for such a burly steel beast. Small and light compared to a trailer though.
Sorry no pics yet...but it will be way better than the TS-2! It'll be kind of big and heavy for shipping, but that's the way it goes for such a burly steel beast. Small and light compared to a trailer though.
I can't remember, and it was in a bike mag in some gas station that I didn't buy...
It had little foam sliders that you could position to hold in smaller tire widths and such.
You could make it in like 40 minutes if you have a wleder, 8 lengths of 1/2 inch solid rod approx 3' long, and 2 pcs of angle iron the width of your box. Weld the rods to the angles at a 45 so they mount to the front of the box and the floor, and space them so they are juuuust closer together than the ACTUAL width of your tire, that way it acts like a clamp. And technically, you need a lower support along the floor so your tires can't slip around side to side. That's where a chunk of PVC helps, it acts like a tray.
I just scored the deal of the month and got 3 older raptor bike racks shipped to me for $80! I'm going to build an over-the-box rack so I can still carry all my wood and/or lock up my tools and gear while traveling. Unfortunately, the tires themselves will even sit higher than the cab roof, so I gotta watch for stuff above me more now... and my grips are gonna kill bugs. Eeeeeeeewwwwwww...
It had little foam sliders that you could position to hold in smaller tire widths and such.
You could make it in like 40 minutes if you have a wleder, 8 lengths of 1/2 inch solid rod approx 3' long, and 2 pcs of angle iron the width of your box. Weld the rods to the angles at a 45 so they mount to the front of the box and the floor, and space them so they are juuuust closer together than the ACTUAL width of your tire, that way it acts like a clamp. And technically, you need a lower support along the floor so your tires can't slip around side to side. That's where a chunk of PVC helps, it acts like a tray.
I just scored the deal of the month and got 3 older raptor bike racks shipped to me for $80! I'm going to build an over-the-box rack so I can still carry all my wood and/or lock up my tools and gear while traveling. Unfortunately, the tires themselves will even sit higher than the cab roof, so I gotta watch for stuff above me more now... and my grips are gonna kill bugs. Eeeeeeeewwwwwww...
Too bad you're not closer...I build rollcages.1000-Oaks said:
Me or the other guy? I'M located in Yankton, South Dafreakinkota. And I still wanna come check out your 18 minute downhill run...yummmmy....
I just did a 77 Bronco... Sweet cage, spiderweb gussets, 5-point mounts, cup holders and the rear crosbrace over the wheelwells held two amps, his ignition control, and dual Optimas. That was a lot of fun.... Ugh.
Are you sportin a hardtop or a soft? Full doors/inserts? Want a full cage or just a roll bar?
I could build it, sell it to you REALLY cheap, then you could pay my gas to come ride/deliver the cage!
Are you sportin a hardtop or a soft? Full doors/inserts? Want a full cage or just a roll bar?
I could build it, sell it to you REALLY cheap, then you could pay my gas to come ride/deliver the cage!
just use bungie cords 
I tried the PVC thing and it was sort of a joke. It worked out better in the garage then inside the bed of my truck.
I also have a tool-box that eats up space, would LOVE to get one of the side mounted tool boxes (like the Tuffy ones) but they are like $400 which is alot for a toolbox.
Next time I'll make sure instead of a single cab pickup I get a extended cab or quad cab so the bed stays free. The instagator from sportworks (or Thule now) seems like the best option for cost. I'd build one out of wood but I think it'd just not be that practicle.
I also have a tool-box that eats up space, would LOVE to get one of the side mounted tool boxes (like the Tuffy ones) but they are like $400 which is alot for a toolbox.
Next time I'll make sure instead of a single cab pickup I get a extended cab or quad cab so the bed stays free. The instagator from sportworks (or Thule now) seems like the best option for cost. I'd build one out of wood but I think it'd just not be that practicle.
I want the family cage. I run a hard top and full doors. Here is a pic. The second pic shows the front part above the driver and passenger.THRILLSEEKA said:
Spunger, Thats what I was thinking about the PVC. It just doesnt look strong enough for the roads we shuttle here in Montana.
That rear hoop is ugly. I'm not doing that. I can make something much sexier.
I REALLY don't want to try to make a cage that indepth-especially being a hardtop-and then HOPE it fits. My usual rule is that I keep the rig for the duration of the build, that way the owner also gets a free install, but then I KNOW it fits and fits right. I was figuring I could just borrow a Bronco from someone to do a rollbar.
If I were to SOMEHOW do it(you're atleast an hour or two away from me, aren't you? ), I would ditch one of those middle hoops( I don't like the forward slanted one, it fawks with the lines), run a halo and stringers to the floor, rather than a hoop by the windsheild, for strength where it matters, and then kick that rear most hoop(probably another halo and stringers, instead) forward to make the Bronco look shorter. The halos and the angles they would be positioned also prevent you from hanging up on outcroppings and intrusive trees like hoops tend to do.
And as a side note, I've seen a cage-kit in an EB that looked EXACTLY like that (not saying there isn't a better one that looks the same) that got FOLDED on a slack flop. The tubing was just exhaust tubing, THIN. and there's no lateral support in any kits. GOTTA have lateral support, or you just have a really fancy tach mount.
I would do it as I described, with a gusset design of your choice(flames, webs, nekid ladies), 5-point mounts, a windsheild bar(cupholders and tach mount), and a highlift mount for 6 bills. But you'ld have another $400 in getting it here and back.
Here's an example of my ability to get carried away with tubing! 300' of 2" DOM....in a Suzuki Sidekick!
I REALLY don't want to try to make a cage that indepth-especially being a hardtop-and then HOPE it fits. My usual rule is that I keep the rig for the duration of the build, that way the owner also gets a free install, but then I KNOW it fits and fits right. I was figuring I could just borrow a Bronco from someone to do a rollbar.
If I were to SOMEHOW do it(you're atleast an hour or two away from me, aren't you?
), I would ditch one of those middle hoops( I don't like the forward slanted one, it fawks with the lines), run a halo and stringers to the floor, rather than a hoop by the windsheild, for strength where it matters, and then kick that rear most hoop(probably another halo and stringers, instead) forward to make the Bronco look shorter. The halos and the angles they would be positioned also prevent you from hanging up on outcroppings and intrusive trees like hoops tend to do.And as a side note, I've seen a cage-kit in an EB that looked EXACTLY like that (not saying there isn't a better one that looks the same) that got FOLDED on a slack flop. The tubing was just exhaust tubing, THIN. and there's no lateral support in any kits. GOTTA have lateral support, or you just have a really fancy tach mount.
I would do it as I described, with a gusset design of your choice(flames, webs, nekid ladies), 5-point mounts, a windsheild bar(cupholders and tach mount), and a highlift mount for 6 bills. But you'ld have another $400 in getting it here and back.
Here's an example of my ability to get carried away with tubing! 300' of 2" DOM....in a Suzuki Sidekick!
It would still be a family cage, just cleaner. I'm a family man, so I understand fully.
I KIND OF have access to a Bronco, but it's the one I JUST caged, he was a TOTAL pain in the ass, took him 6 months to pay me as I made the mistake of trusting him and had to get the Bronco out of my shop, and on top of that, he thinks I'm going to do more work on it for him!! He's wacked. But, I'm sure I could get it long enough to do a cage for you, BUT... I usually weld them in place inside the rig, a bolt together cage will cast a few hundred more, and I only have a little Toyota pickup, so transporting it would be...interesting?
Oh...and I'm 750 miles from Billings, bro... Not saying we WOULDN'T go, but it's quite a time/money investment. Of course, i AM really, really hoping to get to Crankworks in July....
If there is any serious rockclimbing/bouldering near Billings, my little brother may work with me on the drive as well, or somewhere close.
If you are serious about this(no tubers up there?), let's take this to email. twistedscout@hotmail.com
And a cheaper way may be for me to make a bolt or weld together cage(got a welder and can you weld?) and simply ship it to you. We can work that all out later. But I will say, I REALLY doubt you'll find anyone pickier than me when it comes to tubing. I may not be the best, but with no bragging intended, I am good at it. It's probably my only true skill in life.
I KIND OF have access to a Bronco, but it's the one I JUST caged, he was a TOTAL pain in the ass, took him 6 months to pay me as I made the mistake of trusting him and had to get the Bronco out of my shop, and on top of that, he thinks I'm going to do more work on it for him!! He's wacked. But, I'm sure I could get it long enough to do a cage for you, BUT... I usually weld them in place inside the rig, a bolt together cage will cast a few hundred more, and I only have a little Toyota pickup, so transporting it would be...interesting?
Oh...and I'm 750 miles from Billings, bro... Not saying we WOULDN'T go, but it's quite a time/money investment. Of course, i AM really, really hoping to get to Crankworks in July....
If there is any serious rockclimbing/bouldering near Billings, my little brother may work with me on the drive as well, or somewhere close.
If you are serious about this(no tubers up there?), let's take this to email. twistedscout@hotmail.com
And a cheaper way may be for me to make a bolt or weld together cage(got a welder and can you weld?) and simply ship it to you. We can work that all out later. But I will say, I REALLY doubt you'll find anyone pickier than me when it comes to tubing. I may not be the best, but with no bragging intended, I am good at it. It's probably my only true skill in life.
I'll post a pic Kanter of my hitch mounted one. Holds 2 bikes no problem, I loaded the karp and a buddies 50lb one on there the other day and drove a fire road to ride and no flexing at all.
Totally trust it.
Totally trust it.
Here's a pic of the rack and also here's a link to my Prerunner before I tore it down and built it for race class 7u in score, bitd and mdr.
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/features/march2000/index.html
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/features/march2000/index.html
Dont need 2" tubing, 1.5 120 wall with .75 to 1" 095 for yor gussets.THRILLSEEKA said:
Works fine and allows you to tuck it in alot more areas Ie the dash, side pillars and roof for room. Hitting your head on a roll cage is by far one of the most painfull eye openers.
Just my 2 cents, score bitd and mdr regulations all have a min of this and all the trophy trucks, pro series 7s, 7u class 8 and 9 are almost all 1.5
Actually, SCORE regulations go by weight. Most trucks fall into the 1.75" DOM or 1.5" 4130 category. I built my cage out of 1.75" DOM with 1.5" support tubes and a few sticks of 1.25"...all .120 wall. You can't overbuild safety.
Is there any reason why tie downs don't work in a pick up bed?
Is there any reason why tie downs don't work in a pick up bed?
amateur said:
Well if you want to carry lots of bikes they don't work too well, but for 1-2 they work great.
I tried the PVC thing and it didn't work for me. It tore apart with a few uses and the bikes weren't very secure.
I usually just lean them in the bed on top of each other because all the shuttling around here is on road.
Hey Kanter did you call the shop last week?
Someone did from your town. Just curious.
Someone did from your town. Just curious.
Absolute finish. I checked the missed calls and one was Kalispell.Kanter said:
Just checking.
My rack cost me $100 with straps and rubber bungees and faom for the posts.
Took me about an hour + ano time and a buddy powdercoated it for me.
bullcrew said:
F-in' BULLCREW-Travis with 1,000 posts, had no idea it was you!
Remember 'ol Drew?! I got out of off-roading and into mtn biking. Next venture is a bike-rack company! Turned in the patent application, working on prototype #2.
Whats up D, haven't spoken with you in a while.1000-Oaks said:F-in' BULLCREW-Travis with 1,000 posts, had no idea it was you!
Remember 'ol Drew?! I got out of off-roading and into mtn biking. Next venture is a bike-rack company! Turned in the patent application, working on prototype #2.
Tried calling you about a month ago at the ol 4x4tuff #.
Hows it going?
I'll pm you my number gimme a call.
Drews the sh_t, he makesKanter said:Ill take one for the pickup bed.....
awesome products and is a great fabricator.
You haven't seen me bend tubing, I suck...lol.
Picked up a JD^2 Model 4 with hydro for prototype work, no consistancy yet though. I think I need to take the lash out of the shoe so I can be confident the bends will always start in the same place.
Picked up a JD^2 Model 4 with hydro for prototype work, no consistancy yet though. I think I need to take the lash out of the shoe so I can be confident the bends will always start in the same place.
Haven't done any pickup bed stuff yet, but maybe eventually!Kanter said:Ill take one for the pickup bed.....
You don't drag the end of the rack pulling out of parking lots? Or is the truck tall enough?bullcrew said:
I was wrong, it wasn't 2", it was 1.75"...I don't own a 2" die. And DOM tubing it 'tarded, but I got it at wholesale $$$, so why not!bullcrew said:
Couldn't give a crap less what "score" recommends! For one, rockcrawling isn't Score racing. In rockcrawling, cages are winch points, bumpers, highlift points, and anchors. Score drivers just need to survive a rollover, we have to survive a rollover 4 times a trip and look good on monday.
Second, "the minimum necessary" has NEVER been a mindset for me. Who cares what Score wants? These are cages for hobbyists! Weekend warriors. Ever seen a 1.50" cage in a fullsize rig? It's stupid looking. It would be like 22ga spokes in your DH rims, weenie and useless. Yeah, it'll survive the first bump, but the second? Third? Get my point? So basically it comes down to looks, fitment, practicality, and WHATEVER in the hell the owner wants. I use 1.75" tubing on ALL perimeters, with 1.50" for stringers and unnecessary supports. Mostly for looks, but also, can't go wrong with overbuilding.
As for tucking??? Geez, I put a FULL cage of 1.75" INSIDE a Suzuki Samurai. The owner is 6'10", 290 and an ex-marine Seargent. He just shipped me half a damn beef because he said he STILL hasn't pegged his punkin on my tubing.
HERE is how you tuck, bro!
And a pic of some gussetting...it's not about minimums, bro!
There's a reason people want my cages...It's my Cadillac style...
Heehee, BTW, just funnin with ya'...