all this talk about molds makes me wonder why the hell the unchanged minion, designed in like 2000, still is the most expensive tire on the market...
oh yeah, demand.
oh yeah, demand.
all this talk about molds makes me wonder why the hell the unchanged minion, designed in like 2000, still is the most expensive tire on the market...
oh yeah, demand.
yah, on the other hand, those 150g weight savings will last for the next 5 years and transfer bike to bike, where the hill billys might last for 6 months of riding, and provide marginal benefit over a set of tires that somebody might be able to find for 50 or 75 dollars less.I find it hilarious that people will spend $200 on a ti spring to save 150g, but won't spend $150 on tires, which will make much more of a difference to your riding.
yea but i can wish. i've messed around with a ton of latex solutions and they work well a lot of the time but the 2bliss bead works so well on so many tubeless and ust rims.Too close to what they already make.
You lack vision!!
(I'm thinking trailbike here, I don't like gooey rubber on bikes I climb on for hours)
Hey for what it's worth, some of this stuff diluted....
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=62
Can usually make just about any tire tubeless.
That's what I was afraid of.I just became your stalker.
You'll get what we give you when we're ready to give it to you.2bliss sx butcher with a 60d compound!!!!!!
Come on! Gimme gimme gimee!!!
This, right here, is what direct customer-interaction in the post web2.0 era is all about. One day, they will write textbooks referencing the "Landcruiser method", as it will come to be known.You'll get what we give you when we're ready to give it to you.
If you're taking notes, I'll tell you what every grassroots and pro rider for Michelin loved and clung onto desperately. Steve gave us all a pair each of a Comp 24 in 2.2" casing with a medium density sidewall for our trail bikes.Gladly.
What language is that? It sounds vaguely English...Every person to a man that ever ran that tire...
Yeah, still ridiculously dumb.
The harder the ground the quicker they wear. I just blew through a rear in 2 days of riding. The tracks were steep and had a lot of breaking. The side knobs are still fine but the centers are toast.Still no word on how they wear? Give us the low down guys. This is probably this tire's weakest aspect.
Want to try them on the rear. Still hard to trust anything but a DHF on the front.
I don't know if I can officially endorse it, but I know of a least one guy in house that runs our production DH tires tubeless on 823's with no complaints...Landcruiser: I'd love to try the Big S downhill tires, but I sure do like the fact that the UST Maxxis tires are super robust for tubeless use. How about some 2Bliss DH tires from the Big S? That would be enough to get me to buy a set of Butchers.
We don't have any front or rear specific tires.As for the butchers, are these meant to be run front and rear or front only?
I ran the exact same setup this last weekend w/Hillbillys and some stans.. no complaints, went on super-easy w/just a blast of from a CO2 cartridge.I don't know if I can officially endorse it, but I know of a least one guy in house that runs our production DH tires tubeless on 823's with no complaints...
I'm sure running the standard tires tubeless works fine...most of the time. But there's a reason it isn't officially endorsed: because they aren't designed to be used that way and hence have no guarantees of actually working.
I thought this was common knowledge? Most people I know that run Tubeless Maxxis DH tires run the regular tires and avoid the USTs.The interesting thing here is that you are using Maxxis as a model for how regular tires are not up to the the task.
If you dig a little more, you will see lots of evidence and experience that says the tubeless versions of Maxxis DH tires are the weaker of the two (the weight difference and sidewall feel will also corroborate this)... and that better reliability, durability, and ease of set-up is had with normal Maxxis tires run w/o tubes.
the UST maxxis was designed to work with a UST rim with no sealant.I'm sure running the standard tires tubeless works fine...most of the time. But there's a reason it isn't officially endorsed: because they aren't designed to be used that way and hence have no guarantees of actually working.
There's no guarantee the tubeless version will work better than the standard either, look at the maxxis ust tires..I'm sure running the standard tires tubeless works fine...most of the time. But there's a reason it isn't officially endorsed: because they aren't designed to be used that way and hence have no guarantees of actually working.
what about with a Stans rim? I just replaced my rims on my trail bike, and so I have a couple of Flows built up sitting around. If I wanted to try tubeless, would it just be a case of throwing some Stans in my existing Minions and slap'em on?the UST maxxis was designed to work with a UST rim with no sealant.
it was never designed to work on a ghetto setup with sealant.
the bead on the standard maxxis dh tires work a million times better than the UST tires on ghetto setups, and if you are using sealant in a UST rim, they work at least as well as the UST tire.
bazically, if you are using sealant, there is no reason to get the UST version from maxxis.
I run butchers and hillbillys tubeless on Stans ZTR Flow rims with sealant, also no problems.I don't know if I can officially endorse it, but I know of a least one guy in house that runs our production DH tires tubeless on 823's with no complaints...
We don't have any front or rear specific tires.
flows are not UST rims. they are converted with tape/rimstrips just like any other ghetto tubeless setup.what about with a Stans rim? I just replaced my rims on my trail bike, and so I have a couple of Flows built up sitting around. If I wanted to try tubeless, would it just be a case of throwing some Stans in my existing Minions and slap'em on?
I realize that. I've been running them that way for three years. What I want to know is if I can just throw regular Maxxis tires on there, with sealant, and safely use them for DH duty.flows are not UST rims. they are converted with tape/rimstrips just like any other ghetto tubeless setup.
That statement should come with a disclaimer. Where you ride can strip a tire of it's dignity in less than a day.The harder the ground the quicker they wear. I just blew through a rear in 2 days of riding. The tracks were steep and had a lot of breaking. The side knobs are still fine but the centers are toast.
For me, this is a specialty tire, not my every day bread and butter tire.
I suppose that looks cool to non-engineers, but that FEA is so detached from anything remotely real that it's a waste of megabytes.Cool article from Bikerumor on Specialized R & D. http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/05/03/specialized-brings-finite-element-analysis-fea-to-mountain-bike-tire-design/
Keep in mind...tires that "look" better probably sell more than ones that work better.
Hopefully in this instance, the science of tire design wins out.
Will those ground control replace the Eskar's? I like my Eskar's, but would like something with a little more support for "intermediate" leaning...I wouldn't read too much into that marketing slide. It's not indicative of how we really design tires.
Just know that that tire has received nothing but positive feedback from the many people who've test ridden it.