Tubes and tires were ALWAYS the highest margin items in my shop, and I didn’t charge much.
This is what's wrong with The Industry™
- Thread starter Electric_City
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How about your expenses?
about 20-40% more, depending on what you look at. meat is definitely a luxury over here. other groceries are 20-30% more than in germany. rent also. but i was living in a super expensive area so though i pay more for my flat now its still less % of my total income than before.
Tell me about this testride. Never heard of that before. Is it that you take the bike out for a quick spin after you fo the work to make sure all is good, and charge for it?
How much for inflating the tire?yep
if it takes time it gets charged, every little step gets added
Valve cap removed, cleaned, checked and inspected.How much for inflating the tire?
Cap reinstalled and torqued to correct setting.
Test ride and reinspect.
$73
Chainstay mounted post-mount brakes.
Can barely get to the mounting bolts to tighten the caliper to the frame.
Can't remove the pad retaining pin without loosening the caliper as it hits the seatstay on the way out.
Can barely get to the mounting bolts to tighten the caliper to the frame.
Can't remove the pad retaining pin without loosening the caliper as it hits the seatstay on the way out.
It seems to me like Scott was the first to do this on racing Hardtails? That’s where I first remember seeing it en mass. Tucking the brake down in the rear triangle rather than sticking “outside” the rear triangle. I agree, it’s dumb. Too limiting with rotors, adapters and access.
Antidote has managed to make a version of it that doesn't suck on the Carbonjack, but I agree that it's definitely a solution in search of a problem, at best.
I understand it's probably necessary on bikes which use a flex stay, doesn't mean I don't think it's a pain the balls though. If I haven't put it in this thread already, I'd also add flat mount brakes on mountain bikes.
The two bikes I was dealing with are 160mm PM with a 20mm adapter for the stock 180mm rotor.
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Oh my... dillholes gonna dillhole.Actually, reality is mundane enough.
Mike Vandeman is an elderly gentleman who makes up his own fake research to discredit mountainbikers as a legitimate user group because he doesn't like them. And he got arrested for cutting a bike rider with a saw a few years ago and lost his job at AT&T because of it.
And he's still doing this shit.............
That PC647.6 code...
Wow.
I don't know if it is because of tradition or aesthetics but have the cut end of a dropper cable at the post is a fucking pain in the ass. Would be so much easier to have the barrel connect to the post then have some kind of grub screw attach it to the lever.
What post?
Because I believe what you are describing is how Fox does it? (The right way)
Because I believe what you are describing is how Fox does it? (The right way)
Yeah having the cut end at the post is objectively wrong. Fortunately most people have it right these days.
oneup's always had the cut end at the lever
KS posts....
And yeah they are a total bugger. You need to get the cable length just right or do EVERYTHING again.
I had one of the old posts that has the cable go up into the seat post mount head. You had to loop the shift cable around a tiny screw, down in the hole. What a pain in the ass...
I drilled out the hole that the barrel goes in and now put the head of the cable in the post. Been like that since 2017 with no issues. I have the barrel in my tool box in case I need it for some reason, but I haven't in all these years.
Yeah KS and BikeYoke share the same setup but at least the new BikeYoke remote lets you have both ends cut and adjust the length at the lever end rather than fixed.
I'd still prefer to leave the pre-formed end on the cable though like the Fox/OneUp posts do.
The only thing I do not like about my BikeYoke Revive is the fucking cable.
This method has Ball Ache written all over it.
I just re-attached mine the other week after sitting around all winter. Did not think it was a big PITA. I hate the tiny easy to round wolf-tooth screw at their remote more than anything else (with "right way" PNW posts). Hell, I'll take dealing with the BY rather than blowing through failed PNWs (my 3rd happened a week ago).
I was fine the double cut cable setup on my BikeYoke before I went full robot (AXS). It meant I didn't need to faff around with measuring the length at the post end. Yeah, it would be a bit better if you could just hook on the ferrule end at the post, but I think it would have meant having a much larger cylinder to fit around it and still rotate smoothly.
The BY worked flawlessly for a couple years - I'm still holding onto it as backup because it's honestly worth more than whatever used price it'd fetch. I'd rather let it sit in my workbench to have such a great post available if I need it than have to settle for a OneUp or PNW.
The BY worked flawlessly for a couple years - I'm still holding onto it as backup because it's honestly worth more than whatever used price it'd fetch. I'd rather let it sit in my workbench to have such a great post available if I need it than have to settle for a OneUp or PNW.
So the 2nd to last one actuator failed, in cold temps it will seize, keeping the seat post compressed most of the time seems to help. Bikeyoke does something similar, but doesn’t seem to affect reliability, also if compressed, the bikeyoke will always extend, vs if extended and temp changes radically. This cold weather problem with the actuators is an issue, but seems to be fairly mitigated keeping them compressed. The last failed by developing about 1” of play at the top, except it was a month old warranty replacement for the actuator one. This was also at the start of my 100 mile race, so I was frantically trying to get my seat height right and hoping it wouldn’t get worse. Also didn’t see any extreme cold due to our warm tail end of winter. The first one that failed also developed play in the cartridge. I have years old bikeyokes, but I can’t get the PNWs to function as anything other than a disposable post. I have two BYs and 3 PNWs, including the failed one and one spare. I’m probably going to try something else for my winter bikes, I hear transfer SL is mechanical, as is e13.
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Yeah, no idea if they've improved it but my e13 on my fatbike is pants. I specifically bought them because fatbike, cold weather and mechanical.
The 150mm's needed a stronger spring than they originally fitted, otherwise it doesn't spring back up enough. Even with that mine still needs help sometimes. I know I've mentioned it in this thread, but the remote that came with it was horrible. 3 or 4 different fastener sizes and a bunch of small parts.
The 125mm on my wifes fatbike hasn't had the return issue. But she's got a loam lever on hers now, mine has a Oneup.
The 150mm's needed a stronger spring than they originally fitted, otherwise it doesn't spring back up enough. Even with that mine still needs help sometimes. I know I've mentioned it in this thread, but the remote that came with it was horrible. 3 or 4 different fastener sizes and a bunch of small parts.
The 125mm on my wifes fatbike hasn't had the return issue. But she's got a loam lever on hers now, mine has a Oneup.
And I know it’s taboo to speak of riding on snow, but droppers are making headway here and the only reason we aren’t seeing more is reliability in the cold. As far as usefulness, there are a couple people saying “well I don’t see why” but it’s the exact same **** with every other off road situation. Even on the Iditarod there were lots of steep hills, descents, etc. just being able to step off and on a 60 lb bike (it is NOT as easy to step over the side when it weighs that much, it slides down to the side each time) is a huge win, but it’s like every other off road situation, you end up using it all the time.
fyi e13 stopped making the mechanical TRS dropper that was fully serviceable (and works fine in very cold temps) and have switched to the common replaceable cartridge style.