I'm currently running 823 rims with 2.5 Michelin tires. Tube in the back, tubeless up front (no sealant). I went to this setup after slicing 5 tires in 5 consecutive weekends at races on rocks. It works great.
I really don't get this,and hope I don't experience it. Te tracks I ride are rocky,and I'm a bad line picker. I am only 67kg though. How heavy are you? I'm guessing it's the rocks you ride,are they freshly broken up or something? I ride sanstone and quarts and granit,never had a tear(touches wood). Would you not have flatted anyway with a tube(possibly a lot more),can you not patch the tyres?I'm currently running 823 rims with 2.5 Michelin tires. Tube in the back, tubeless up front (no sealant). I went to this setup after slicing 5 tires in 5 consecutive weekends at races on rocks. It works great.
Yeah on my Lahar and BMW Racelink,both do have rearward axle paths, but I still smash the **** out of rocks, my rims have rock marks from when the tyres bottomed out and the rocks have gouged the rim,even on the side walls there's marks from rocks along the tyre and then gouging onto the rim.NSM - is this on your lahar bike? coz the rearward axle path would make a big difference.
I sure was. That didn't last too long though! I experienced slices on both the sidewalls and inbetween the treads. They would be roughly a 1/2 inch long and stans would not fill it up, just keep squirting out every single time. Every time its been on rocks, and after putting a mid-weight tube in, I stopped flatting. I can't explain it really since I weigh almost nothing.motomike- i might have got the wrong person here, but weren't you running 5.1s a while ago?
and the tires you are slicing, slicing the side walls or pinch flatting?
Honestly I never pinch flatted, it was all gashes in the tires. Maybe it was a stretch of bad luck, I'm not sure...but I'm keeping a tube in the back from now on..I really don't get this,and hope I don't experience it. Te tracks I ride are rocky,and I'm a bad line picker. I am only 67kg though. How heavy are you? I'm guessing it's the rocks you ride,are they freshly broken up or something? I ride sanstone and quarts and granit,never had a tear(touches wood). Would you not have flatted anyway with a tube(possibly a lot more),can you not patch the tyres?
Unfortunately, 721s are some of the few rims that don't work well tubeless. If you do try them you will need to build up the interior of the rim with a couple of layers of velox rim tape. Even after that they still don't hold tubeless as well as 729, 5.1, MTX, and others.I have Mavic 721s. I have stacks of new Maxxis tyres. I have 20" BMX tubes. I have Stans sealant. I have seen the how-to videos. I want to try this 'ghetto' setup (what is there to lose?)
What I haven't got is the know-how of how the tyre gets onto the rim when there is a stretched innertube over the rim? It's a tight fit at the best of times without an added few mms of rubber added...
Besides that they don't offer the 40 a SRY and 3C compounds, don't offer the Swampthing, don't offer the Ardent, don't offer the 2.4 ADvantage, don't offer the 2.35 Larsen TT etc. in tubeless you are right, it is their whole range.how can you complain about choice when the whole maxxis range is tubeless?
i probably weight less then you, and i get that once in a while. thats a tubeless pinch flat alright. instead of the tube getting pinched and getting snake bites, its happening to the tire.I sure was. That didn't last too long though! I experienced slices on both the sidewalls and inbetween the treads. They would be roughly a 1/2 inch long and stans would not fill it up, just keep squirting out every single time. Every time its been on rocks, and after putting a mid-weight tube in, I stopped flatting. I can't explain it really since I weigh almost nothing.
Showoff...:biggrin:....I have put all of them on in less than a minute.
never had a tear(touches wood).
This might be why they work so well for mei think tubeless compliments smoother riders, gm being the text book example of this.
Why not? Minions work pretty well in the wet here in the PNW. As long as the mud doesn't stick to the tire you are fine. But it so depends on where you ride and the setup of the bike.in wet conditions, not really. no point trying to stay on dry tires for longer, proper tires for each condition still give a much bigger advantage.
Well, worst case scenariosShowoff...:biggrin:
the mud here has a fair bit of clay in it. once the tires are clogged up, you are feked!! most of the time is slick stuff over pretty hard dirt. so you really need a spike tire to dig in.This might be why they work so well for me
Why not? Minions work pretty well in the wet here in the PNW. As long as the mud doesn't stick to the tire you are fine. But it so depends on where you ride and the setup of the bike.
BTW: do you also change the suspension settings to get the most out of the mud tires? If you are serious you have to do this.
Inflated ready to rideI run them all. I prefer UST, ghetto, then regular Stan's, although I have put all of them on in less than a minute.
Normally if the trail is muddy and soft I go with a little stiffer setup (preload/air pressure and/or lsc). Pretty much similar to what I run in soft and dry (moon dust) conditions. Just gives you a better feel for what your tires are doing IMO.suspension set up for mud? no, not really. what do you do? faster rebound more lsc? i already run very fast rebound and a fair bit of lsc on my bike. i have heard different views, some say less lsc, some say more with faster rebound. i dont see the point.