2009 EVIL Revolt: T-minus 10... 9... 8...
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
i think a XL would be huge for someone your size. my large feels pretty long in the TT area, im sure a XL would be huge
its a 53mm direct mount for my 888
Still waiting on spec info for the completes...
Right so after a good ole scottish winter day out in the pissing rain on my revolt im really needing to sort out a guard to protect the rear shock. I was thinking of getting some flexible plastic and cutting it into a fender and cable tying it on to the swing arm in front of the wheel. Has anyone made something similar that they could share?
Im also slightly worried about grit mud and small stones etc grinding away in the tight gap between swing arm and frame on non drive side?
Im also slightly worried about grit mud and small stones etc grinding away in the tight gap between swing arm and frame on non drive side?
i`m just using an old tube... not the best looking solution, but it`s very easy to make.. i`ll love to see a rear fender like the v10`s
the v10 fender is too short IMO. The one that comes with the Makulu works really well
I really wish some company like crud would look into making specific rear fenders for bikes, you would have thought there must be a market for them with the amount of inner tubes you see tied to bikes?
Santa Maria are you using the Makulu fender then? Could you post a pic or sizes of the fender?
The longer section of a front crud fender looks like it could be dam close with a little mod too.
Santa Maria are you using the Makulu fender then? Could you post a pic or sizes of the fender?
The longer section of a front crud fender looks like it could be dam close with a little mod too.
my post was a little misleading - sorry. I ride a Makulu not a revolt and wanted to share my experiance with the fender on the makulu.
. Any one else found another fender that fits the 
some interesting ideas. im going to try and modify a old THE fender tonight and also try some plastic that i also have lying around
I've been super busy so I haven't been able to get on here as much as I'd like. I totally forgot to post up pics of a fender I put together a few months ago that I've been testing - and coincidentally it also involves a T.H.E. fender. 
Will post some pics tomorrow.
Will post some pics tomorrow.
Sorry for a late answer on this, but I did a P-lot pedal on an XL and it felt shorter than my large Flatline. I'm 6'2" and I think I'd go XL... Hmmm.
It's really all about preference. When I was testing the Revolt out for myself at the beginning of the season I rode Seplavy's Large and Dave Trump's Medium. I'm about 5'11" and it was definitely a close call for me who was coming off of a Medium Sunday.
I finally settled on a Medium and after a "getting-to-know-you" period of foreplay, it feels absolutley perfect!
Todd is around both your heights and he was on a Large although XL's weren't in production at that point anyway so I'm not sure if he would have preferred an XL.
Some useful info to help make a decision:
Effective TT for Large: 24.02"
Effective TT for XL: 24.8"
WB for Large: Max: 46.73" / Min: 46.23"
WB for XL: Max: 47.52" / Min: 47.05"
Let me know if you guys need any more info. I'm working on a tech and tuning thread to finally get info organized and easily accessible for the masses so in the mean time - Hope this helps!
Thanks alot for the helps guys. I do like bigger bikes and the longer wheel base of the XL might seal the deal for the kind of riding I like to do - i.e. Whistler. I really need to get on one and mess with the stem lenghts.
S.K.C. - Any word on the build kits for the completes??? Thanks again.
S.K.C. - Any word on the build kits for the completes??? Thanks again.
Last I heard (which was a while ago) the build kits would have FOX running gear as an option. I'll check with the guys to see what's up in addition to the new colorways.
Glad to be of service!
Glad to be of service!
SPAM
but if anyone is interested in an ELKA shock for their revolt shoot me a PM
but if anyone is interested in an ELKA shock for their revolt shoot me a PM
Could you explain a little bit more what you mean? Do you mean that it just bounces?
uhh what?
ahhaha 3-4mm of travel, so your talking about this much of the beginning stroke | |
I'd call Fox and tell them you have no rebound in the first 3-4mm of stroke and wait for them to laugh.
4mm? I don't think I could even detect that...
I'm pretty sure you could, given that it translates to a bit under 1/2" at the rear wheel. A worn out DU bushing has less than 1mm of play in it and its noticeable.
A properly charged and bled shock should not have any travel that is undamped in either direction. And Fox, if i remember correctly, has a hydraulic top-out control so it should definitely be damped int he first few mm of travel. but i agree with a previous poster, i'm not really clear on what the problem is as it was described. more info please.
The poster makes it sound as if he was talking about the rear travel. Not the shocks stroke... Maybe I didn't read it right?
so how are everyone's bushings and bearings holding up?
i just took my frame apart and noticed most of the bushings are worn down to the metal and the link bearings are shot.
...going to send them a email to get new ones now.
i just took my frame apart and noticed most of the bushings are worn down to the metal and the link bearings are shot.
...going to send them a email to get new ones now.
I over hauled everything on mine in early September... this summer of non stop rain was brutal no matter the bike.
id be interested to see if they move to something besides bushings for the next gen model.
i havent looked at the size of the link bearings yet, but Enduro does make their Abec5 bearings in the size needed for the main pivot. i think im going to try them.
i emailed Gabe today about bushings and bearings, it's time to tear it down for the winter.
i did that too. im just waiting to hear back from him on when i can get em
I have a fresh set of bearings in my tool box at home and have already replaced the bushings. My opinion is that the bushings are so easy to replace (much easier than seal grease on a fork!) that the only issue is availability. I think they feel good other than the noticeable break in period.
The first time I had my bike apart I noticed that the bell crank bearings felt notchy like they were preloaded from the side but I don't notice it when I'm riding. I'll see how they feel after I replace them.
Like Lee, I had a very wet summer and I spent a lot of time at Whistler which has some pretty tough conditions for wear items like bearings/bushings/chains etc and I'm ok with the amount of wear that I've seen.
The first time I had my bike apart I noticed that the bell crank bearings felt notchy like they were preloaded from the side but I don't notice it when I'm riding. I'll see how they feel after I replace them.
Like Lee, I had a very wet summer and I spent a lot of time at Whistler which has some pretty tough conditions for wear items like bearings/bushings/chains etc and I'm ok with the amount of wear that I've seen.
I think he accurately described the feeling, the 4mm part is probably not quite as accurate. cut him some slack.
howd you remove the link bearings? did you knock them out or use some sort of puller
I need a high-res side shot of a frame. As flat as possible, gonna work on some graphics kit for it while it's torn down.
i just put the swing arm back on, but i can take one with it on if you want
How'd you get the swingarm off?
I cant for the life of me get it out.
I cant for the life of me get it out.