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Discussion in 'Downhill & Freeride' started by 'size, Jul 22, 2012.
Rotary broaching. It's tough to explain easily in words, but there's a bunch of videos on the web.
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That is the single most nifty bit of tooling I have ever seen.
Just had a look at that, amazing stuff. How good are the tolerances? In the Slater Tools vid I was watching, there is visible deflection of the tool when it begins cutting.
Haha I watched the same vid. I think what your seeing is the beginning of the wobble no?
I don't know about the repeat accuracy if you're producing a few hundred parts. But last Time I used this Tool on the CNC Lathe I did five parts and they stayed in a range of about .05 mm.
The tolerances on the parts I had made are tight- the 8mm hex key fits pretty much perfect.
Pretty good. The deflection or wobble of the tool is needed for it to cut the material (usually there is a 1 degree wobble).
d'oh! That'd be it!
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/dvo-emerald-first-look-2012.html there it is
Looks weird, but the geek in me.. wants one NAOW!!!
They might be moving together. It seems that the CTA holds them together permanently. The wording of the rigidity claim is very smart. They only say that it is 50% stiffer compared to the equivalent Emerald w/o the CTA. I wonder how it compares to the competition.
Definitely a looker
Doubtful even without the CTA that it is less stiff than the dorado. Granted the dorado has the hexlock, but its decreased stiffness in relation to non-inverted forks has not been a detriment that i can tell while riding/racing
I love the Halson reference in the PB article...but does he remember the PBF too?
As for the devo, still lots of plastic bits on the prototype...will be interesting to see the actual finished product. At least they got their anodizer sorted! Not sure why you'd go with a coil negative spring on an air fork...RS have a patent on dual/solo air?
The only important part for any RM user.
Tom Rogers is a shredder
and the deets: http://www.pinkbike.com/news/dvo-emerald-first-look-2012.html
i like the looks, the colette clamping system could be cool, lets wait for next summer...
I've posted my question, before I read the text of the article
They made that too easy...
I'm going to start saying "DIFRNT SHIMZ."
lol, ADQUT SHIMZ
"The twin tube, open bath damper is exactly as its name would have you believe, with a secondary tube that sits within the fork. The damper piston travels up and down within this tube, but as opposed to it being sealed, oil ports on the wall of the tube allow damping oil to circulate between the inner and outer tubes, and through the valving. "
Nice copy of the X-Fusion HLR damper...
That's how Marz dampers have been for a while too.
And moto dampers for like 25 years (with the exception that it's the base valve that's at the bottom, and the rebound/check valve that's moving at the end of the rod).
Marz dampers are either sealed cartridges (TST) or open bath systems (RC, RC2, RC3) not twin tube open baths.
srsly though...I'm not sure I care about the gimmicky portion of the fork...I'm just hoping that they can implement the individual aspects that make a certain fork great in one single unit. RS's weight, fox's damping quality, marzocchi durability...you'd have a great product. teh carbonz pseudo-fenderizer, maybe not so much.
THis is taken from the article and ensures its instahit wonder stuffzors.
"the shims flex more or less depending on the forces involved"
Marzocchi does not have any twin tube damper technology, not even in the moto division of the company.
Tom is a shredder for sure! but I don't think that is a picture of him right there.
Darn, no "M" arch.
Looks like a promising mix of the proven and the nifty.
definitely promising mix of proven and nifty!
What's gimmicky? The torsion bridge? It serves a very specific, functional purpose.
Tapered steerer on a triple fork
High quality damper
Standard 20mm axle
making things in anodized colors
I'm not saying the gimmicks won't work. Sometimes they're great. Foes had a special crown system, so did maverick. They both had gimmicky axle systems. Marzocchi tried their own stem thing for a while. Cannondale has an entire fork based around a gimmick.
I'm just saying...look at what's still on the market: High quality dampers, shimz, 20mm axles, purple anodized everything, and somehow one-sided forks.
from the armchair engineer's view (so take it for what it's worth...not much) that torsion bridge also serves as stanchion guards, a part that gets bashed and smashed. I replaced my Shiver guards a couple of times back in the day, and I'm sure I'll be replacing my Dorado guards. They were cheap and served the purpose. What happens when you smash that nice carbon fiber piece? It looks pricey to replace and forms a structural part of the design, while only being held on by what looks like 4 small fasteners.
So.......they didn't want to fork up for a mag lower mould, so they built a usd fork, all fine...then they go and build a carbon lower anyway, doesn't really make sense to me. As someone else said, there are things on a fork far more important than maximum rigidity. Also dvo, Y U NO grease port between dust and oil seal?
Christ they do seem to go on like they invented shimmed dampers and yes it's identical to an x fusion damper, I'm disappointed there's no spring backed ifp.
At least it looks cool.
Edit...."it's a long time since someone bought an inverted fork to market"...well..ever heard of the apparently excellent Dorado? It's also made entirely in the USA, although it's not my country, I'd still prefer buying western made and if I was AmericanI'd be on the Dorado like a fat kid on cake. Americas manufacturing industry needs all the help it can get.
It HAS been a long time since the Dorado first came to market. The fact that you can still get one doesn't change that.
But it raises the question of WHY has it been so long? The other big players looked at inverted forks and so far have basically said no thanks. DVO seems to be saying that OF COURSE every major player would do it if only they were smart enough to figure out the carbon arch solution.
It's less obvious than that to me, but it's definitely some well-written marketing spiel. You gotta give 'em that.
If you can provide the right amount of lubrication to the bushings and seal you don't ever need a grease port between the oil an dust seal. Beside if you just keep adding new grease to the old grease it gets pretty nasty and ends up not helping at all.
We know we didn't invent shimmed damping, we are just making a point to show riders what technology is available the fork that we are producing.
tooling for carbon, while expensive, is still cheaper than for a casting - doesn't have the same thermal requirements. not to mention the process is much less energy intensive which == cheaper.
also don't have to hold quite as tight tolerances on this (cf) part since its not interacting with seals, bushings carts, etc.
just a point if they went that far with the arch, why no integrated carbon mudguard???
nice concept tho, liking the sounds of it so far.
Simply not true, if you have a dual lip oil seal, then a dust seal, the oil seal will prevent any lubrication getting to the dust seal. By having a grease port, you can pump as much grease as you like in there and it will push the dirt and old grease out the one way dust seal, but be stopped from entering the fork by the outer lip on the oil seal.
This is not rocket science, it's the type of thing seen on industrial machinery all the time. It saves the annoying job of pulling your inners out and cleaning/reg-reasing your dust seals. I'm pretty sure a gun of slick honey is much more appealing to customers than taking a fork off the bike, stripping down etc and would do aaaalmost as good a job. You'd still have to clean the seals properly every so often, but certainly far less. Pushing old grease and dirt out with new grease has been proven to me to work in the most horrendous of dusty wet hot horrible bearing conditions and keeping the grease up to it makes the seal and everything inside last a very long time.
I'm assuming you run a marzocchi/moto style tc seal then dust wiper. If your running a Fox style system, then forget what I just said. If you've said it somewhere then I fail at reading.