yupp they do
10 Speed X7 anyone?
- Thread starter dropmachine
- Start date
this thread?
At least its not skinsuits
Same story here. Oh, except mine's 9speed.
Not saying that I'm a fan of more gears, I'm just BORED of hearing people whinge about 9speed - it works fine for me!
A thinner chain will be stronger if you think about it - assuming the outer-plates are just as thick as before, and it's the gap in the middle that has been made narrower. Shorter pins = stronger.
No, YOU'RE missing the point. 11-34 with a 34 tooth ring will give you the same climbing ability as 12-36 with a 36 tooth ring, but more top-speed when you need it.
I would be inclined to agree with this if there were someone there beating it........the horse that isthis thread?
and more ground clearance, and fewer grams, though possibly more pedal bob.
...all of which could make or break your time on a world cup course.
Out of curiosity, have any of you guys ever bent cog or chainring teeth? Either DHing, trailriding or whatever?
I bent a tooth on a cassette before. It was a long time ago so I don't recall the brand or usage. I've also broken chainring teeth but that was without a bashguard.
I have done many front chainrings, but only a few teeth on cassettes
my PG970 has a tooth broken off
OK, so my follow-up question is (and I assume you all saw it coming!!!): don't you think thinner material would be weaker, wear easier and bend or break easier?
To be clear, I'm not really complaining about more gears, it's more that I'm skeptical that it will make my bike better. But since no one is discontinuing 9 sp. in the near term, I'm going to bow out of this thread, and watch and see how 10 sp. works out in the end.
To be clear, I'm not really complaining about more gears, it's more that I'm skeptical that it will make my bike better. But since no one is discontinuing 9 sp. in the near term, I'm going to bow out of this thread, and watch and see how 10 sp. works out in the end.
I cracked a 22T chainring riding trials before. It failed under load, not from lack of bashguard (aka over torqued is my guess).
perhaps you should ease up on the gainer-fuel there, tough guy.
...oh, and i've never busted a tooth or a chain.
I've done that a few times. Come to think of it I have broken pretty much every part you can think other than a handlebar during my trials days.
Do you think it is possible that the teeth break off of a cassette cog due to the angle of deflection of the chain as it is shifting from one cog to the next and that by reducing the spacing between cogs you could actually improve the side loading on individual teeth? I think you'll also end up with smoother shifting as the jump in cog size between two adjacent cogs is smaller. That leaves the biggest issue being the play in the linkage of the rear deraileur. I think as production technology has improved so has the manufacturing tolerances and materials used in the the components. I think the der's will stay tighter longer.
when you are 220lbs, sh!t breaks
Yup.... Killed an odler xt 11/34 cassette about six years ago or so.... Dont even know when I did it. I was prepping for a ride when I found the number four was missing about a 25% section or so..... Still worked, I am assuimg it had been broken for awhile seeing how I was noticing I was going through chains rather fast at the time.
Killed another when it rattled a little bit loose, was One of the sram cassette that breaks down into individual cogs.... stripped out the number eight cog, this was before I truly understood the importance of the "B" screw adjusment, and that it isnt there to increase tension
COuldnt tell you how many chain rings I have been through, from either rocks hitting them, chunking teeth off, or just plain wearing them out. Usually the ones that break are the alloy ones. Softer metals just wear out faster.
So what do you call it when you are 255-260 range before you load up with gear?????
A 34/11 gives you "top end speed"? That's only like 23mph!
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You also have missed the point. Besides, 23mph is better than the 22.3mph that the 12-36 & 36t cog would offer you.
Throw this into your mix..... are you really pedalling past 23 MPH?
Regardless, the point is a 12-36 cassette gives you less range than an 11-34 cassette, and weighs more, and needs a special mech, and gives you less ground clearance, etc etc.
I've never understood why some cassettes start with 12t instead of 11t = that's the question; can anyone answer it?
If I remember from my USAC officials test it is because junior road racers aren't allowed to race with an 11t. But I guess that still doesn't explain why its that way for some mountain cassettes.
Good question- I've wondered the same thing...
bingo. i think most cassettes actaully made for mtb have the 11t lockring
Only cassette I have that starts with 12 is the 7spd on my DH bike. I experienced skipping when putting down a lot of power on the 11T on fast, bumpy terrain (yes, I pedal past 23mph). The 12T holds the chain better.
My point in the "top speed" posts was that the availability of a 36T cog has made some people excited to go 1 chainring on a bike that they climb. Whether the small cog is 11 or 12 the resulting top gear when combined with a 32 or 34T ring is pretty weak. Only works if you're slow. A 2 ring gives more low end AND top end. This is what you're giving up when you ditch the front derailleur.
So hurray, with 10spd you can look cool with a single ring and barely grunt your way to the top of the hill in a 34/36 before you coast down, limited by your 34/11. Wow, front derailleurs sucked and life's way better now. If you live around flattish hills and don't do long steep climbs followed by fast descents, my condolences.
It's not the availability of crappy gearing that pisses me off, it's the lack of availability of sensible gearing (11-28 8spd for XC, 11 or 12-26 7spd for DH, 11-32 or 34 9spd for 2ring FR). We'd be better off if this effort was put toward improving drivetrains, rather than the "more cogs is progress" marketing. At least give us the option of choosing the gearing that works best for us since we ride different style bikes on different trails with different fitness levels.
Edit: The MTBR thread has now turned against 10spd. You don't have to be a genius to tell the difference between progress & marketing.
My point in the "top speed" posts was that the availability of a 36T cog has made some people excited to go 1 chainring on a bike that they climb. Whether the small cog is 11 or 12 the resulting top gear when combined with a 32 or 34T ring is pretty weak. Only works if you're slow. A 2 ring gives more low end AND top end. This is what you're giving up when you ditch the front derailleur.
So hurray, with 10spd you can look cool with a single ring and barely grunt your way to the top of the hill in a 34/36 before you coast down, limited by your 34/11. Wow, front derailleurs sucked and life's way better now. If you live around flattish hills and don't do long steep climbs followed by fast descents, my condolences.
It's not the availability of crappy gearing that pisses me off, it's the lack of availability of sensible gearing (11-28 8spd for XC, 11 or 12-26 7spd for DH, 11-32 or 34 9spd for 2ring FR). We'd be better off if this effort was put toward improving drivetrains, rather than the "more cogs is progress" marketing. At least give us the option of choosing the gearing that works best for us since we ride different style bikes on different trails with different fitness levels.
Edit: The MTBR thread has now turned against 10spd. You don't have to be a genius to tell the difference between progress & marketing.
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