[dw]

did ya use a screwdriver from the back side or did you just smack the front of it?
the last frame was easier, but this one seems a lot tougher


edit: man i coulda made a comment about that "rubber persuader" but i held back. youre welcome

double edit: flips chips are officially super fcking stuck

I have an 8mm punch that I used to use to take out shock bolts, so I just lined it up with the punch and gave it a little tappy tap-tap. Not too much pressure really. Maybe a little paint got in the hole there? Thanks for sparing me on the persuader comment LOL .

 

[IH8Rice]

I have an 8mm punch that I used to use to take out shock bolts, so I just lined it up with the punch and gave it a little tappy tap-tap. Not too much pressure really. Maybe a little paint got in the hole there? Thanks for sparing me on the persuader comment LOL .

no paint in there.. i have a anno frame now. i tried using a screw driver from the back side, but im just douching it up and they havent budged one bit.

8mm hex wrench and pounding the sht out of it dont work..awesome. these flip chips have been more of a issue than anything


i cant leave the rear flip chips in the slack and the front in steep right?

 

[IH8Rice]

'10 Revolt for sale. inquire within

 

[Jason4]

You can leave the front chips slack and the rear steep and vice versa. I wouldn't let that stop me from riding.

 

[IH8Rice]

You can leave the front chips slack and the rear steep and vice versa. I wouldn't let that stop me from riding.

with the debacle i just had, im leaving them both slack and gonna try and deal with the .5" lower BB.

have you tried running them opposite of each other?

 

[Frisco]

Well, I don't have any stories of romance but I'm stoked to finally have mine built up. I've only taken one ride on it but so far it feels phenomenal. I'm 6'4 and the XL fits perfectly. I'm going from an 03 Big Hit so I probably deserve the upgrade of the year award.

Cheers

 

[Bicyclist]

Awesome build Frisco! Looks great.

 

[Jason4]

I haven't tried running the chips opposite yet but there really isn't any reason it wouldn't work. When I put my bike together Kevin said it would work if I remember correctly.

I have had my shock out twce now without any problems. My biggest issue now is that I'm 1500 miles and 10 days away from my bike.

Were you having problems hitting things with the bb in the low position?

 

[IH8Rice]

I haven't tried running the chips opposite yet but there really isn't any reason it wouldn't work. When I put my bike together Kevin said it would work if I remember correctly.

Were you having problems hitting things with the bb in the low position?

its no biggie now. i have them both in the slack position.

when i got the RC4 it came with a 400lb spring on it and i was hitting them at every possible moment. the 500lb spring on it now doesnt give me enough sag, but it stops me from smashing my cranks for right now. i need to get shorter cranks and play around with more spring sizes.

 

[buckoW]

Try the 400lb. spring and more air pressure with the LSC cranked up a bit more.

its no biggie now. i have them both in the slack position.

when i got the RC4 it came with a 400lb spring on it and i was hitting them at every possible moment. the 500lb spring on it now doesnt give me enough sag, but it stops me from smashing my cranks for right now. i need to get shorter cranks and play around with more spring sizes.

 

[Jason4]

How much do you weigh?

I'm about 200lbs in my gear and I'm running a 350# spring. I get a little seat rub on g-outs and hard landings and was getting a liitle buzz on my downtube with an '07 Boxxer team. I'm running steep in the front and slack on the rear which is really the worst case for the rubbing. I put a set of RF Atlas cranks on mine in 165mm length and haven't hit my pedals too much riding Whistler. I hit the taco on my LG1 a lttle more often but not hard. It's only really on the very slow rolls that I take when I'm checking out a trail for the first time and don't know where to let it loose and keep the front up.

 

[AR_]

So how are these sizing up in the real world? I'm 6ft circa 155lbs, Medium and 350lb spring? I like my bikes to come up a little small as opposed to a little large. My old medium Turner DHR almost seemed a little big from memory, and my Racelink also feels like a larger bike.

 

[IH8Rice]

Try the 400lb. spring and more air pressure with the LSC cranked up a bit more.

the 400lb i had was super soft, but i didnt try jacking the pressure up or the LSC. i was bottoming the seat out on small 1' bumps. it felt great, but way too soft.
ill try swapping the 400lb back in and play with the pressure and LSC and see where that gets me. my buddy has a 450lb that im going to try too.

How much do you weigh?

I'm about 200lbs in my gear and I'm running a 350# spring. I get a little seat rub on g-outs and hard landings and was getting a liitle buzz on my downtube with an '07 Boxxer team. I'm running steep in the front and slack on the rear which is really the worst case for the rubbing. I put a set of RF Atlas cranks on mine in 165mm length and haven't hit my pedals too much riding Whistler. I hit the taco on my LG1 a lttle more often but not hard. It's only really on the very slow rolls that I take when I'm checking out a trail for the first time and don't know where to let it loose and keep the front up.

im 225-230lbs with all my gear and whatnot. are you using the RC4 too? i couldnt imagine how soft the 350lb is when the 400lb i tried was low ridin it.
i have Diabolous 170mm cranks and i just need to pay attention to where i pedal and how i ride in order to not smash em right now.

like i said above, im going to play with some more spring weights and then get a shorter set of cranks too

So how are these sizing up in the real world? I'm 6ft circa 155lbs, Medium and 350lb spring? I like my bikes to come up a little small as opposed to a little large. My old medium Turner DHR almost seemed a little big from memory, and my Racelink also feels like a larger bike.

you might like the medium if you prefer a smaller bike.
im suprised you think the Racelink feels large. to me they feel super small in the TT/reach area

im 6'3" and riding a large w/ a 53mm stem and it feels great

 

[dump]

Well, I don't have any stories of romance but I'm stoked to finally have mine built up. I've only taken one ride on it but so far it feels phenomenal. I'm 6'4 and the XL fits perfectly. I'm going from an 03 Big Hit so I probably deserve the upgrade of the year award.

Cheers

Great looking bike - very nice

 

[Jason4]

I am riding the RC4 but I couldn't tell you what the settings are off the top of my head. When I get home I can check but it will be another 9 days ore so. Kevin set it up for me and said that he left it a little overdamped according to his notes. I think I've added just one click of LSC and played with the rebound a bit but not too far from where it was set originally.

 

[Frisco]

I weigh 200-205lbs and the 350lb spring with the RC4 seems pretty much spot on at ~33% sag which is what the Fox manual recommends. The shop I bought it from recommended always running 130lbs air with the bottom out all the way negative. So far I have the HSC one click in from neg and the LSC about 1-4 clicks in from neg(I'm def still figuring it out). I have all the rear flip chips set at slack but the front is set at steep. I usually like a low bb with a ht angle about 64% so this seemed like a good place to start. The bike feels so good, though, that I'm going to try the front in slack too. I'm running 165 cranks and pedal bashing hasn't been too much of an issue (I am riding a rough DH trail). I did bend my pedal pretty good. However, this was in a dark wooded section so I think it was more of a visibility issue. I only tried to take one flip chip out. It wouldn't come out at first but then it just fell out when I was working on the bike (Some of the bolts were out to cure the locktite). Anyway, I'm still figuring out the settings on the RC4 and am very curious what other people are running. I'm in a little disbelief at how well this bike jumps, corners, and accelerates.

 

[IH8Rice]

Anyway, I'm still figuring out the settings on the RC4 and am very curious what other people are running. I'm in a little disbelief at how well this bike jumps, corners, and accelerates.

Todd has posted a shot of the recommended shock adjustment settings. this is a good place to start and ive been working from their initial recommendation.

-ska todd

 

[Jason4]

I know they worked hard on the initial settings that come in the guide with the frame. Kevin was out at our local trails a few times and after every run he'd check the settings and pull out a binder with a bunch of tech. drawings and make notes on what the settings were and how it felt. I know he was working with some other fast guys early on to get things dialed in as well. I assume other bike companies do the same thing but it was good to see that he cared so much about getting the product dialed before going to market. I got to take a lap on his bike during one of his testing days too and was hooked on it then.

 

[IH8Rice]

I know they worked hard on the initial settings that come in the guide with the frame.

you got a setting guide with the frame?

 

[Frisco]

The post I'm seeing doesn't actually give shock settings (ie. LSC, HSC clicks...). I know this is all personal preference but I'd be interested to see if there is a post/guide with what some people have been running. It seems that the more I learn about suspension setup the more often I am wrong.

 

[Zombies]

The post I'm seeing doesn't actually give shock settings (ie. LSC, HSC clicks...). I know this is all personal preference but I'd be interested to see if there is a post/guide with what some people have been running. It seems that the more I learn about suspension setup the more often I am wrong.

A post earlier in this thread has those details attached in a big picture

I reduced the rebound on mine a few clicks but otherwise it's a good starting point.

EDIT - seems picture link is now broken but if you go for around 130 psi in the back, LSC 10 clicks return and HSC 8-10 return.

 

[IH8Rice]

The post I'm seeing doesn't actually give shock settings (ie. LSC, HSC clicks...). I know this is all personal preference but I'd be interested to see if there is a post/guide with what some people have been running. It seems that the more I learn about suspension setup the more often I am wrong.

look at the post at the top of the page.

 

[Frisco]

Sweet. Thanks.

 

[big-ted]

Saw a black ano frame in the flesh yesterday. Holy cow it looked sweet. I have to say though, the decals looked kind of nasty on the ano finish.

I'm torn. On the one hand, I love the look of these frames, and by all accounts they're very solid and well made. I've also heard awesome stories of customer service regarding the Evil guys. However, $3200 CAD for a Taiwanese built frame is pushing the bar, no two ways about it...

 

[dw]

However, $3200 CAD for a Taiwanese built frame is pushing the bar, no two ways about it...

Honestly Ted, and I LOVE SAPA, but I can't think of a factory outside Taiwan that could manufacture every detail of this bike as expertly. Even the USA and Canada factories source forgings and tubing from Taiwan. That's where the technology and cost has really matured in the last 20 years.

There are a lot of amazing factories that can machine and weld in North America, but it's tough to beat TW for sourcing complex formed tubes and forgings. As a result, the factories there have a lot of experience working with complex shapes / manufacturing techniques.

 

[big-ted]

Sorry Dave, my comment came across wrong. I have no problem with stuff being made in Taiwan. As you say, there are some fantastic facilities out East and are often the only places capable of making such things. But it is undoubtedly cheaper to make stuf out East, and it's a shame to not see those savings passed along to the end user.

 

[dw]

Sorry Dave, my comment came across wrong. I have no problem with stuff being made in Taiwan. As you say, there are some fantastic facilities out East and are often the only places capable of making such things. But it is undoubtedly cheaper to make stuf out East, and it's a shame to not see those savings passed along to the end user.

I think that I got your point Ted, I was just trying to provide a little insight into the behind the scenes that I've become aware of over the years.

I think that typically it CAN be cheaper to build in the East, but in this case, I think that it means that a bike that would typically not even be saleable due to manufacturing price can actually be made and delivered at a cost that some people can afford. No doubt the price is not cheap, but it would be out of control if the thing was built here in North America. It basically couldn't happen without cutting some corners. Plus, that RC4 isn't exactly the most affordable unit on the market, but it has been working great so what can you do!

 

[ska todd]

Actually Ted, no, I can pretty much guarantee you that the pricing isn't what you'd think, especially on a smaller scale production, complicated production bike like a DH frame using forgings, hydroforming, and CNC'd bits all over. Also keep in mind that the current Revolts are shipping with RC4 shocks which costs quite a bit more at an OEM level than the only DHX5.0 did. This will begin to be reflected in the pricing on 2010 models from other brands as they sell thru inventories of DHX equipped models.

-ska todd

 

[big-ted]

Fair enough. Cheers for the input. At the end of the day I can winge all I like! You guys are obviously selling plenty, and it's good to see a group of sound individuals doing so well with their product.

 

[davetrump]

However, $3200 CAD for a Taiwanese built frame is pushing the bar, no two ways about it...

just curious... what can you get in canada for less than this?

intense, yeti, turner, morewood, transition, etc are all at least this or much much more.

unfortunately the exchange rate is not helping our canadian friends as much these days

i shared a lift ride at bromont with some guys who work in shops and when i heard what they were paying for various stuff at cost it was just nuts.

 

[big-ted]

just curious... what can you get in canada for less than this?

intense, yeti, turner, morewood, transition, etc are all at least this or much much more.

Intense, Yeti and Turner are all made in the US. I *think* the blindside is made overseas, but it's definitely significantly cheaper. Morewoods I'm not sure. Are they made in South Africa? But yeah, I concede the points above. The Revolt definitely has some fancy metalwork going on.

The exchange rate certainly isn't helping. What does a Revolt frame go for down there?

Edit: Fanatyk list the white PC frame at $2850 US. Pretty in line with the $3200 CAD up here.

 

[iRider]

Actually Ted, no, I can pretty much guarantee you that the pricing isn't what you'd think, especially on a smaller scale production, complicated production bike like a DH frame using forgings, hydroforming, and CNC'd bits all over. Also keep in mind that the current Revolts are shipping with RC4 shocks which costs quite a bit more at an OEM level than the only DHX5.0 did. This will begin to be reflected in the pricing on 2010 models from other brands as they sell thru inventories of DHX equipped models.

-ska todd

Just curious, how does Intense produce the 951 for the same price as the Revolt then? Made in the USA, hydroformed tubes (sourced in TW I guess), lots of CNC'd bits (no forgings though) and a RC4.

 

[davetrump]

Intense, Yeti and Turner are all made in the US. I *think* the blindside is made overseas, but it's definitely significantly cheaper. Morewoods I'm not sure. Are they made in South Africa? But yeah, I concede the points above. The Revolt definitely has some fancy metalwork going on.

The exchange rate certainly isn't helping. What does a Revolt frame go for down there?

Edit: Fanatyk list the white PC frame at $2850 US. Pretty in line with the $3200 CAD up here.

well aware of where stuff is made, and i think it is absurd to think that you should get a discount on something made in asia as opposed to the US because somehow you think the company is saving tons of money... as pointed out TW does the best work and makes using complex fogings and tubing affordable (that in the US would price them to an unattainable level)

some other prices of bikes in canada:
v10: $3399 cad
yeti 303: $5199 cad
yeti 303R: $3499 cad
intense M6: 3450 cad

so yeah... the evil is on par or slightly less, than the competition

i am not trying to be rude, but your reasoning about the price makes no sense

 

[big-ted]

Yes, the Evil is on par with other high-end boutique US MADE frames. Usually frames made overseas are cheaper than those made in the US due to reduced manufacturing costs, however, as Todd and DW convinced me above, the Evil is a particularly complex frame to make, hence the increased costs, bringing it back in line with the US-made examples you site.

Dude, drop it, I'm convinced already!

 

[IH8Rice]

$5200cad for a 303?? wtf

 

[ska todd]

Just curious, how does Intense produce the 951 for the same price as the Revolt then? Made in the USA, hydroformed tubes (sourced in TW I guess), lots of CNC'd bits (no forgings though) and a RC4.

I'm not wholly privvy to Intense's distributor & IBD pricing structure. Our pricing is designed for dealers to actually feed themselves and pay employees. We aren't trying to be the most expensive, we certainly aren't the least expensive, and we think that it's only right to give our dealers their fair shake.

-ska todd

 

[iRider]

I'm not wholly privvy to Intense's distributor & IBD pricing structure. Our pricing is designed for dealers to actually feed themselves and pay employees. We aren't trying to be the most expensive, we certainly aren't the least expensive, and we think that it's only right to give our dealers their fair shake.

-ska todd

Great to see you support the dealers! Some Mfgs don't seem to care about them at all.

 

[norbar]

I don't see what the problem is. The revolt is priced like most high end frames if not less. Yes the high end bikes are expensive and I wish I had more money but it's my fault for being lazy not companies fault that this is the price most people are willing to pay for a high end frame.

BTW. If I remember correctly Banshee Legend and Canfield Jedi are made oversees and they cost more than the revolt. (If I'm wrong correct me but I though they are made in the same factory)

 

[Zombies]

Edit: Fanatyk list the white PC frame at $2850 US. Pretty in line with the $3200 CAD up here.

In the UK they are £2495 for anodised

Which at today's rates is

US $4,123
C $4,527

So you ain't got it so bad

 

[woffa04]

One from Down Under