i wish Chrome's translator was moar betterer
2010 Marzocchi 888 Evo tuning thread
- Thread starter Kanye West
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german is not the best language for machine translation 
How is it in general with the play in lower leg bushings? My 2011 888 rc3 ti, is having a slight play in the right leg.
Noticiable when rocking the bike back and forth with the front brake locked. Left leg has zero play.
Marzo says that bushing replacement for 2010-2011 is not possible. Worth warrantying my lower legs? Or is a slight play considered as acceptable, and the possible new legs would have it anyway?
Noticiable when rocking the bike back and forth with the front brake locked. Left leg has zero play.
Marzo says that bushing replacement for 2010-2011 is not possible. Worth warrantying my lower legs? Or is a slight play considered as acceptable, and the possible new legs would have it anyway?
wut?
can you rule out headset or brakepad-play?
I have slight bushing-play in one of my forks but as long as it doesn't get worse I'm not too worried about it.
Yep, Marzocchi is not giving out bushings for 10-11 models - its lower leg replacement directly. You can fit the ones from 09, but they are different (not grooved).
And yes, its the fork. It's very little play, you cannot notice it while holding on to the bars. When putting my hand between the stanchion & lower leg it's noticiable.
I dont think it affects its performance, its just annoying.
And yes, its the fork. It's very little play, you cannot notice it while holding on to the bars. When putting my hand between the stanchion & lower leg it's noticiable.
I dont think it affects its performance, its just annoying.
that would be like taking 10 steps backwards
You 'd only be sending it to California. One option is to see what early season races the Marz truck will be at and have Ronnie take a look at your fork.
he might be from Yurp
Norway? The distributor here warrantied mine without any problems.
Anyways, this is a friends fork:
Are these the titanium-nitrit stanctions from the works-package? How did he get that in europe?
I'm not sure. I heard that the german distributor is a nightmare when it comes to warranty issues (the story goes that one guy sent them their monster and then they couldn't find it for years) plus I get my evo ti with a bike.
what's the difference between increasing the preload at the top and increasing the lo hi speed compression at the bottom for 2012 888 Evo RC3 V2? does the preload work at the beginning stroke and the lo hi speed compression work somewhere at the middle stroke?
Mech. preload can only do so much. Essentially it helps you attain proper sag but it really isnt much dude. Compression adjustment is more noticeable. I use the compression adjust myself preventing too much wallow and dive on steep terrain. If you want support in the middle of the stroke I suggest adding air preload. Experiment on the amount you use because too much makes it too stiff and harsh. I find it very useful. I want it a lil stiff to start, more support in the mid, and it helps preventing bottom out on those huck to flat situations.
thanks boylagz.that's what i notice too with the preload. i weigh 170 #. last week i tried 4 clicks in for the compression and i see it still dives too much on steep rocky trail especially when there are drops more than 3 feet on that steep part and i lack speed. i will try 6 clicks tomorrow.is air preload the one outside the rebound dial? mine is set to minimum for this
thats not a preload adjustment. it is a volume adjustment to help with the progressiveness of the fork
Now having the initial issues pretty much worked out, the fork feels pretty damn amazing in the first 3/4 of travel, but then it ramps up VERY heavily. I tried taking the spring out, while the fork is mounted on the bike and getting full travel -> I could get around 185mm and then it became so stiff that I felt I was gonna break something if I push down harder.
I have the volume adjust all the way out. Compression 3 clicks.
The oil recomendation for the 2011 ti model is 335ml on the damper side - I have 330ml in there now. Should I try 320ml? Or is a re-shim needed to make it more linear?
I have the volume adjust all the way out. Compression 3 clicks.
The oil recomendation for the 2011 ti model is 335ml on the damper side - I have 330ml in there now. Should I try 320ml? Or is a re-shim needed to make it more linear?
You can remove easily 10ml of oil in the damperside and see how it feels. Try this before reshimming the fork.
To me it sounds like a hydraulic lockout what you got, because the damping shouldn't make any difference when you try to compress your fork slowly (almost no shaft speed).
Play with your oil levels-it will make a difference.
Yes.
Basically the volume of oil between top and lower end of the fork locks the fork out if there's too much of it. Think about a hydraulic cylinder on a excavator. Liquids are almost incompressible. Therefore it seems the fork is bottomed out.
Basically the volume of oil between top and lower end of the fork locks the fork out if there's too much of it. Think about a hydraulic cylinder on a excavator. Liquids are almost incompressible. Therefore it seems the fork is bottomed out.
Sorry bout that, could have worded mine more accurately. Thanks.
6 clicks is just right for me @ 170#. i kept the volume adjustment to minimum since i don't do drops and jumps more than 4 feet
wtf??
Ok i know that. From my past experience the only thing it does is induce air in the cartridge. I actually tested it and my foam rings where still dry as ... The oil seals do their job really well and no oil go passed them. That is why i suggest to use Stanchion lube. You can also replace the foam rings by some super fine grease, that part is covered up in the Crc 888 tune up video.
Turning the fork upside down had absolutely no good effect on my ride. Yes you can always get the air out of the cartridge cycling the fork but i feel it is just a waste of time.
Now i am not a suspension guru. But i am giving out facts based on my experience.
Yeah, I agree with you.
I have no idea why Marzocchi started using a foam-ring above the pressure seal (they didn't in the past), because it's in a place where it's not contributing to the lubrication system at all - oil can never reach it thus it will likely just dry out and contribute to sliding friction over time. I would imagine the system would work better without it, but I don't own the fork to test.
The only real use for a foam ring is in a single-seal design where it is constantly exposed to oil flow, preferably via slotted lower AND upper bushings, to help keep the upper bushing lubricated in use.
Cleaning the wipers and applying a lubricant will probably offer more benefit like you say.
I have no idea why Marzocchi started using a foam-ring above the pressure seal (they didn't in the past), because it's in a place where it's not contributing to the lubrication system at all - oil can never reach it thus it will likely just dry out and contribute to sliding friction over time. I would imagine the system would work better without it, but I don't own the fork to test.
The only real use for a foam ring is in a single-seal design where it is constantly exposed to oil flow, preferably via slotted lower AND upper bushings, to help keep the upper bushing lubricated in use.
Cleaning the wipers and applying a lubricant will probably offer more benefit like you say.
This might sound dumb but what would I be gaining by putting an avalanche cartridge kit in a 2008 888 rcv
you would have to get the 888rc3 spring assemby in order to do it since the rcv uses damping rods in both legs.
you would be gaining a lot compared to plain rcv - speed sensitive rebound and compression, external low speed compression (the rcvs comp adjuster adjusts the maximum speed at which the fork can compress, quite useless you want to make it harsh and spikey piece of crap)
you would be gaining a lot compared to plain rcv - speed sensitive rebound and compression, external low speed compression (the rcvs comp adjuster adjusts the maximum speed at which the fork can compress, quite useless you want to make it harsh and spikey piece of crap)
Please bear with me so I understand I read everything on the avalanche site. Again what is wrong with the compression and rebound on my stock fork
Backstory; I did not ride a bike for 25yrs rented a Sunday twice at diablo in aug of 2007 then bought an 08 dh bike with 888 rcv it seems fine but I really don't know what I'm missing
Sorry again to sound so incompetent
Backstory; I did not ride a bike for 25yrs rented a Sunday twice at diablo in aug of 2007 then bought an 08 dh bike with 888 rcv it seems fine but I really don't know what I'm missing
Sorry again to sound so incompetent
if you are only a begginer rider, you don't really need the avalanche cartridge, just run your fork with the compression adjuster wound all the way out. it really doesn't do anything good, it only makes the fork harsh on high speed hits (high speed as in the fork is compressing fast like when you hit a curb going 15mph).
you will learn the limitations of your 888rcv as you become a faster, more skilled rider, upgrade when you really feel the need.
you will learn the limitations of your 888rcv as you become a faster, more skilled rider, upgrade when you really feel the need.
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Anything but no compression my hands fall asleep halfway down hill, I sent my shock to "push" and WOW what a difference it made. I'm trying to get the same out of fork, I have progressed fairly quickly in my riding (not to sound like a dou$he) but I have been able to ride dh at 11 different resorts from east coast to Colorado since 2007 plus grew up riding dirt bikes as primary transportation until I got drivers license.
Although that's why I'm asking this question, so I should just change oil and run it?!
Although that's why I'm asking this question, so I should just change oil and run it?!
Thank you
Now after trying to tune the fork for some hours I can say that the negative pressure on the damper side makes a HUGE difference.
With 15ml less oil than recomendation and no negative pressuse, I couldnt get full travel with the VA totally open.
With recomended oil level and max negative pressure and VA open I pretty much blow through travel.
With recomnded oil level and some negative pressure it feels perfect.
Tricky..
With 15ml less oil than recomendation and no negative pressuse, I couldnt get full travel with the VA totally open.
With recomended oil level and max negative pressure and VA open I pretty much blow through travel.
With recomnded oil level and some negative pressure it feels perfect.
Tricky..