Exactly, it'll all depend on the terrain and preference. There is no one answer.quite sure this has allready been discussed so next time use the search thingy.
i run 40 or 42 and 12-24/26 depending on the track.
more importantly powerband rangeDont forget individual leg speed and power.
i run the same...11-23 rear 38/ 36 front (more ground clearance, gear ratios will be closer giving smoother shifting and aceleration)
and shifting just becomes natural once you learn how to do it properly. are you saying that having the wrong gear for a situation can be just as fast as having the correct one?11-32 with a 38t in front. Road cassettes require too much shifting with the close ratios IMO. If you can learn to pedal efficiently in too high or low of a gear, you'll save time by not having to think about shifting as much as you do with a road cassette.
I'm saying I don't have time in races to click through a whole bunch of close gears on a road cassette. I'm in a hurry, and want just a couple of shifts to get to a gear that's close enough to what I need. The less shifts I make, the more concentrated I can remain on pedaling and riding. I might try a road cassette again some time, but for now the MTB ones are nice and widely spaced. I ride a lot on my DH bikes, and don't mind pushing a little higher than normal gear for a short ways. I've found it faster to push a little harder than to let off the gas and try to get into exactly the perfect gear. Usually it works.and shifting just becomes natural once you learn how to do it properly. are you saying that having the wrong gear for a situation can be just as fast as having the correct one?
Amen.to each their own.
I have just changed from an 11-34 to a 12-27 and i have to agree with bikenweed, i have been finding that i have to push 2 gears where i used to push only 1, i am finding the ratios too close and im having to shift more often.to each their own. i just find that shifting becomes second nature after a while
Agree as well.I have just changed from an 11-34 to a 12-27 and i have to agree with bikenweed, i have been finding that i have to push 2 gears where i used to push only 1, i am finding the ratios too close and im having to shift more often.
That is what i was thinking of doing. I find the spread of gears perfect but the jumps too fine, i thinking i might grind the 3 largest cogs off an 11-34 xt cluster and use that.For a pure race bike, I think the best bet is fewer gears (5 or 6) over a reasonable spread.
I feel vindicated. I tried the roadie cassette thang and was shifting too much. Whats the point of closely spaced gears if you skip 3-4 gears to get to the combo you need?11-32 with a 38t in front. Road cassettes require too much shifting with the close ratios IMO. If you can learn to pedal efficiently in too high or low of a gear, you'll save time by not having to think about shifting as much as you do with a road cassette.
I can't lock out that many gears. I run a 11 - 32 with the 32 locked out, and that works for me. I think a you would have to set the stop via cable tension (not a great option). What der are guys running with the profile 6 speed hub?? BCD runs some 5 speed set up as well...but I cannot remember the specifics.That is what i was thinking of doing. I find the spread of gears perfect but the jumps too fine, i thinking i might grind the 3 largest cogs off an 11-34 xt cluster and use that.
My question is, can the limit screw move the der over that far?
I felt compelled to reply to this thread for some reasonWich is the best gear combo on a DH bike?
exactly, im gonna try to run an ultegra 11-23 with a 34 up front this season. it seems that you can either run a big cassette and a big ring, or a small road cassette and a smaller chainring, saving more weight, better ground clearance, and close to the same ratiosto each their own. i just find that shifting becomes second nature after a while
shifting with a roadie is a lot easier than shifting a big ass mtb cassetteI feel vindicated. I tried the roadie cassette thang and was shifting too much. Whats the point of closely spaced gears if you skip 3-4 gears to get to the combo you need?
I use a 11-32 cassette with a 38 up front.
exactly my angle, thank you ska todd!running a smaller chainring (34 vs 36) and smaller road block cassette (11-23T vs 12-26T) can actually give you more range, shorter chain, more clearance, and weighs less...
Take the L screw out of any derrailleur and put in a longer oneI can't lock out that many gears. I run a 11 - 32 with the 32 locked out, and that works for me. I think a you would have to set the stop via cable tension (not a great option). What der are guys running with the profile 6 speed hub?? BCD runs some 5 speed set up as well...but I cannot remember the specifics.
I agree, downshifting while breaking in a corner is super fun. This is one of the reasons that I run Sram shifters (all shifting with the thumb), I just have not found a place on an 11-32 where I feel like I cannot find the 'right gear'....
definately think that the use of the bike (race only or DH freeriding) and terrain makes a difference in the gears needed.
Keep in mind that the smaller the front ring, the smaller the jumps will be between rear cogs
... it seems that you can either run a big cassette and a big ring, or a small road cassette and a smaller chainring, saving more weight, better ground clearance, and close to the same ratios
On my X9 the screw is attached to the parallellogram in such a way, that when the screw is far out, it is at an angle to the perch/stop. If the screw was much longer, it would angle so much as to fall offf the perch, and not work. Maybe if you turned the screw around so the larger diameter head would contact the perch...Take the L screw out of any derrailleur and put in a longer one