So what, now my posts are getting deleted because I stated my opinion that you are an internet troll? So I guess it's ok for you to judge people and basically call them ignorant and stupid, but as soon as some one states something about the all mighty Transcend with a negative vibe, the post gets deleted? Seriously man, give the forums a break for while. You are turning into a very bitter/negative person.
How to properly set up your hi/low compression
- Thread starter Avy Rider
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Naw, it got deleted because you annoyed me and didn't have anything to do with the thread.
Hence the reason I wrote that last sentence.
You can also quote a manual, hooray!
lol. how bout we ride our bikes and figure out how we like em to ride. not quote books n argue with people about it all.
as far as im concerned the c2 on my fox can suck a moldy carrot because they gave me a fork with no hsc or lsc adjustment. just these two blue nobs on the bottom of the fork that do NOTHING.
as far as im concerned the c2 on my fox can suck a moldy carrot because they gave me a fork with no hsc or lsc adjustment. just these two blue nobs on the bottom of the fork that do NOTHING.
This thread as bedtime story:
...Once upon a time this guy rode his bike and was semi-content until he discovered a magic key that allowed him to enjoy his ride even more.
Now he wants to spread the word so everyone else can be happy too.
THE END
...bottom line is that he's happy with the way his suspension feels. If your going to argue with that, it makes me wonder if you feel like your missing out.
...Once upon a time this guy rode his bike and was semi-content until he discovered a magic key that allowed him to enjoy his ride even more.
Now he wants to spread the word so everyone else can be happy too.
THE END
...bottom line is that he's happy with the way his suspension feels. If your going to argue with that, it makes me wonder if you feel like your missing out.
I agree with running more low-speed compression (stable chassis), but there is a point where I think the rider's arms and legs DO get tired from very small vibrations AND in terms of grip = a gravelly/dusty environment will require a (little) bit less low speed compression damping.
I think the emphasis in this thread is that you should run high-speed damping as open as possible, and I don't totally agree with this:
It is true that towards the end of a landing (from a drop for example) low speed compression is taking care of the bike, however during the initial stages of the landing it is the high-speed compression (and ramp up) which prevents the fork from using too much travel via slowing it down to the point where the low-speed circuit can handle it.
Too little high-speed comp. damping and after a landing the bike will squat too low in it's travel - I noticed this when I was running mine fully open - as I started to close it up I noticed the bike would "recover" a lot better and I still found it super smooth/plush over repetitive bumps/rocks.
I have run it too hard once and found that the front end would bounce around a bit as the fork wouldn't use up any of it's travel over rocks at speed.
I think the emphasis in this thread is that you should run high-speed damping as open as possible, and I don't totally agree with this:
It is true that towards the end of a landing (from a drop for example) low speed compression is taking care of the bike, however during the initial stages of the landing it is the high-speed compression (and ramp up) which prevents the fork from using too much travel via slowing it down to the point where the low-speed circuit can handle it.
Too little high-speed comp. damping and after a landing the bike will squat too low in it's travel - I noticed this when I was running mine fully open - as I started to close it up I noticed the bike would "recover" a lot better and I still found it super smooth/plush over repetitive bumps/rocks.
I have run it too hard once and found that the front end would bounce around a bit as the fork wouldn't use up any of it's travel over rocks at speed.
I'm impressed that someone who owns a fox can admit that. It's the experience both thaflyinfatman on here and I have had after testing at least 20 different fox40's between ourselves, so you're not alone and it's not a one-off issue IMO.
But that's another topic for another day. Try a new boxxer to see how the adjustments should work.
okay, and could this suspension settings be applied to forks as well??now I remember the Go-ride article about setting fork suspensions I think it said that most of the riders were using most of the times a too much soft setting in their forks..so could it be the same idea??
Similar.
In general i have found upping the low speed and backing off the high speed is the way to go.
But if you go to far it feels very harsh and the bike skips and feels sketchy, you need to make sure the spring rate is right and set rebound reasonably fast.
I have also found ice cream is the optimal damping fluid.
But if you go to far it feels very harsh and the bike skips and feels sketchy, you need to make sure the spring rate is right and set rebound reasonably fast.
I have also found ice cream is the optimal damping fluid.
i am not going to argue about it, but LSC makes a big difference and can be felt in parking lots test straight away, try going off a drop to a harsh transition, aka a drop to flat or a bomb hole, and you will notice how the difference in HSC.I'm impressed that someone who owns a fox can admit that. It's the experience both thaflyinfatman on here and I have had after testing at least 20 different fox40's between ourselves, so you're not alone and it's not a one-off issue IMO.
But that's another topic for another day. Try a new boxxer to see how the adjustments should work.
i do have to agree that i am only 120 lbs, so maybe what is effective for me maybe not be for average weight riders. and the boxxer has a much bigger tuning range.
BTW, you should check if there is air in your cart, a well bled cart makes a big difference.
sTiTcHeS--weren't you complaining of your fork being realy sticky? how can you feel the difference between LSC when your fork is soo sticky you complain about it?
anyways, just my .02
so you want to set the low speed so that it stops the bike from diving in corners and braking, but not too much so that traction isn't loss?
at this point i think everyone can agree that ice cream is good.
That's obvious - but if you want a detailed explanation, read the first post in the thread. I'm too lazy to write that much, and thought it was actually a pretty good explanation once you sift through the "avy is the greatest" stuff.
I don't think it does on a 40, and I weigh the same as you. Like I said, i've tried many a pair (05, 06, and 07) - i'm not one to argue what you feel, but like stitches i'm quite convinced that the adjusters do very little. If they make a difference (LS in particular), it is far too insignificant to make a performance difference. Thankfully the fork does have a *little* compression damping stock, so you aren't left with zero like an old 888RC. But in my opinion, it's pretty damn close.
oh, i didn't know that. but i do agree that boxxer have a much bigger range of LSC(all the way to lock out), i am sure you have to have felt some difference? it feels like loads to me. none at all when fully open to needing a good jolt to open it up under sag. its probably just that we have different views of how much LSC is necessary.
I thank you all for at least being open to reading and trying to understand the points I took the time to type. Craig appreciated me putting it into print as he doesn't have a whole lot of time for doing that himself. The words and explanations are coming from Craig Seekins who has 20+ years of suspension tuning knowledge as well as a degree in mechanical engineering.
It's all about balance and is the reason that Craig asks very specific questions about your riding style before he valves your shock and therefore your adjusters range of tuning. Super fast riders (pros etc)are going to encounter high speed hits at a whole different level than most of us and need more HSC than we would. They are also likely to ride very smoothly with their arms and legs and can get away with less LSC than most.
What works for YOU may not be optimal for someone who rides slower or faster but the right way of setting up your suspension is the way I described at the start of this thread. Remember that this info isn't coming from me but from an industry pro whos specialty is in the tuning of compression damping.
It's all about balance and is the reason that Craig asks very specific questions about your riding style before he valves your shock and therefore your adjusters range of tuning. Super fast riders (pros etc)are going to encounter high speed hits at a whole different level than most of us and need more HSC than we would. They are also likely to ride very smoothly with their arms and legs and can get away with less LSC than most.
What works for YOU may not be optimal for someone who rides slower or faster but the right way of setting up your suspension is the way I described at the start of this thread. Remember that this info isn't coming from me but from an industry pro whos specialty is in the tuning of compression damping.
Yes, and it might be easier to understand. You can use LSC to limit fork dive when you shift your weight forward (like in a corner, going down a steep chute, etc.). Not so much that you eliminate small bump compliance, but enough that the fork rides higher in it's travel, leaving you with ample travel for harder hits (and, in my experience, less likely to endo in the steep stuff). If you have separate adjustments, however, you can run relatively less HSC for less damping on those harder hits, where you want to use more of your travel. You get the best of both worlds once you find the balance that works for you.
And at the risk of stating something many people here know, "high"and "low"speed in this context refers to shock shaft speed and has little or nothing to do with how fast your bike is going.
Very well stated OGRipper. I've always been amazed at how some of my friends set up their forks so soft. All you'd have to do was lean forward and they would be deep into the travel. I'd like to add that raising the oil level in forks will not only help with bottoming resistance but also with mid stroke damping.
One thing I keep reading is "small bump compliance" and using less LSC to help absorb them. A small bump at high speed is now causing high shaft speeds or "spiking".
Any sized bump that you roll over instead of slam into is going to be controlled by your LSC.
Picture an MX rider riding whoops at low speeds and following the dips with his wheels and then picture him riding across the tops at high velocity with the wheels skipping across the tops. Same bumps, very different suspension tuning needed.
One thing I keep reading is "small bump compliance" and using less LSC to help absorb them. A small bump at high speed is now causing high shaft speeds or "spiking".
Any sized bump that you roll over instead of slam into is going to be controlled by your LSC.
Picture an MX rider riding whoops at low speeds and following the dips with his wheels and then picture him riding across the tops at high velocity with the wheels skipping across the tops. Same bumps, very different suspension tuning needed.
not to start a whole different debate, but what difference do blow off valves have to needle/port type LSC dampers?
i know the avy LSC damper is a port, same goes for the double barrel. fox uses a blow off valve. a spring loaded pop up valve.
i would think that the needle/port type LSC dampers would have a smoother transition for LSC to HSC.
i know the avy LSC damper is a port, same goes for the double barrel. fox uses a blow off valve. a spring loaded pop up valve.
i would think that the needle/port type LSC dampers would have a smoother transition for LSC to HSC.
but isnt that valve pressure controlled for adjustability? and a valve doesnt have to be on/off either
propedal is spring loaded. and as far as i know it is fully closed and opens up the shox is compressed. of course its not like a spv valve where its on/off, the size of the orifice probably opens more linearly with oil pressure.
but i am sure this would give a different LSC characteristic to that of a port, where orifice size is fixed, where the HSC valves would act as the blow off to the port when port has reached its maximum volume flow rate for that given oil pressure.
but i am sure this would give a different LSC characteristic to that of a port, where orifice size is fixed, where the HSC valves would act as the blow off to the port when port has reached its maximum volume flow rate for that given oil pressure.
That's a great question. I'll have to ask Craig about that one as I'm curious myself.
I just came back from a little dh run nearby to tune my forks to better match the rear end. Zoinks!!! Now with the LSC a little stiffer and the HSC backed out, my bike maintained the slacker geometery I want and stayed higher in the travel (the top 30%)until a couple of nasty big rocks cause the HSC to open up and use up 80% of the travel. I can now tune those settings according to how steep and fast the courses are that I ride. If I know that I am only using 80% travel max, I can back out the HSC a little more and get it closer to 90% total travel with 10% left over just incase of any unexpected stuff.
The slower I ride, the more LSC I want dialed in so I'm not experiencing g-out type unwanted travel usage. The softer HSC will take care of sharp impacts but can be run almost completely open due to the lesser shaft speeds.
It's vital to also be set up with the proper spring rate and sag and be sure to have adequate spring preload. Your ride will suffer if your spring is almost loose. All you will be doing is not allowing the shock to extend fast enough after hitting a bump.
Also, the less unsprung weight you have, the more responsive your bike will feel. I went from dual 24" rims and 3.0" tires to dual 26" with 2.35 Ritchey Z-Max Milleniums. A huge change to say the least!
I just came back from a little dh run nearby to tune my forks to better match the rear end. Zoinks!!! Now with the LSC a little stiffer and the HSC backed out, my bike maintained the slacker geometery I want and stayed higher in the travel (the top 30%)until a couple of nasty big rocks cause the HSC to open up and use up 80% of the travel. I can now tune those settings according to how steep and fast the courses are that I ride. If I know that I am only using 80% travel max, I can back out the HSC a little more and get it closer to 90% total travel with 10% left over just incase of any unexpected stuff.
The slower I ride, the more LSC I want dialed in so I'm not experiencing g-out type unwanted travel usage. The softer HSC will take care of sharp impacts but can be run almost completely open due to the lesser shaft speeds.
It's vital to also be set up with the proper spring rate and sag and be sure to have adequate spring preload. Your ride will suffer if your spring is almost loose. All you will be doing is not allowing the shock to extend fast enough after hitting a bump.
Also, the less unsprung weight you have, the more responsive your bike will feel. I went from dual 24" rims and 3.0" tires to dual 26" with 2.35 Ritchey Z-Max Milleniums. A huge change to say the least!
It would seem I am going from a FR bike with an Avy DHS to a Fox DHX 5.9 on a MC Shockwave. I love the feel of the Avy, and finally have it dialed in. Using Snowshoe as the area I dialed it in. I'm also a big guy 230lbs. (I've lost 25 lbs). I will say the weight loss made the suspension far more plush and responsive, which is telling me it wasn't sprung right before.
And for those of us new to the HSC and LSC, the only reference I can draw is this. I was flying down a fire road to get to the trail head, and hit a rather harsh water bar. I lifted the front end enough to let the rear do the absorption, but it seemed rather harsh. How would the adjustment then need to made to soften the hit at high speed, while not compromising the low speed plushnesh.
While this question is not which one is better that the other, but what are the noticeable and inherent differences in the Avy with HSC/LSC and the pro-pedal, per se?
(Edit: I guess I am attempting to break it down to basics to get a better handle on how to dial the shock in.)
And for those of us new to the HSC and LSC, the only reference I can draw is this. I was flying down a fire road to get to the trail head, and hit a rather harsh water bar. I lifted the front end enough to let the rear do the absorption, but it seemed rather harsh. How would the adjustment then need to made to soften the hit at high speed, while not compromising the low speed plushnesh.
While this question is not which one is better that the other, but what are the noticeable and inherent differences in the Avy with HSC/LSC and the pro-pedal, per se?
(Edit: I guess I am attempting to break it down to basics to get a better handle on how to dial the shock in.)
What you want to do is to keep your suspension in the upper part of its travel when you lean back to lift the front end. Do this by tuning in your LSC to the point where you can lessen the amount the back end squats when you lean back and pull up on the bars. Remember that you can play with your adjusters until you get it where you want it as far as how much it squats.
Now that the first issue is dealt with, you are needing the rear end to move very rapidly when it encounters that water bar. What you need now is for the shock to allow a massive amount of oil displacement which it does by opening the HSC circuits. You can now play with your LSC adjuster until you are controling how much rear travel the bike uses on such an impact. If you are blowing through all your travel and bottoming, increase the HSC to where you get close to using all the rear travel. That's what all that wheel travel is there for...to suck up the hard impacts, not the ones that aren't going to cause bucking or loss of traction.
Again, correct tire pressure smooths out about 80-90% of the small stuff unless it is square edged and you hit it very fast. Then your HSC will open up allowing the wheel to move quickly over it and the quick rebound gets the rear end extended ready for the next bump.
By the way, a big reason why people pinch flat on rock gardens is that they have too much HSC dialed in and the shock isn't being allowed to open up to let that energy be dissipated into wheel travel Instead the shock spikes and the wheel can't move up and out of the way fast enough so the tire pinches the rim causing the flat.
I don't run heavy duty tires and tubes any more and I slam into nasty rocks without fear. So far so good since I retuned the suspension.
Now that the first issue is dealt with, you are needing the rear end to move very rapidly when it encounters that water bar. What you need now is for the shock to allow a massive amount of oil displacement which it does by opening the HSC circuits. You can now play with your LSC adjuster until you are controling how much rear travel the bike uses on such an impact. If you are blowing through all your travel and bottoming, increase the HSC to where you get close to using all the rear travel. That's what all that wheel travel is there for...to suck up the hard impacts, not the ones that aren't going to cause bucking or loss of traction.
Again, correct tire pressure smooths out about 80-90% of the small stuff unless it is square edged and you hit it very fast. Then your HSC will open up allowing the wheel to move quickly over it and the quick rebound gets the rear end extended ready for the next bump.
By the way, a big reason why people pinch flat on rock gardens is that they have too much HSC dialed in and the shock isn't being allowed to open up to let that energy be dissipated into wheel travel Instead the shock spikes and the wheel can't move up and out of the way fast enough so the tire pinches the rim causing the flat.
I don't run heavy duty tires and tubes any more and I slam into nasty rocks without fear. So far so good since I retuned the suspension.
I like to do that by setting up the HSC soft, and then increasing it to just where it does not bottom harshly.
This stuff is not that hard to setup, all you have to do is ride your bike down the same trail and adjust your shock in small amounts to get it right. Oh yeah, and use common sense.
OK, I'll drink a beer after every run!
Actually, after a day and half of a LOT of runs, I didn't hardly have the energy to hop the damn things....part of getting old.....LOL.....
Edit: Except for that one issue, everything couldn't have been better.
i'm printing up a t-shirt with that quote right now.....
You are exactly right Jeremy. That's how I set mine up today. The beauty is that you can tune how much travel you are using up on both rolling type bumps with LSC and hard abrubt bumps like rocks and roots with your HSC. You are in control of the bikes geometry essentially as compressing either end of the bike changes rider position and therefore steering control.
I actually was surprised at how much speed my bike carried down the trail I was testing on when I got both settings dialed perfectly. I found myself needing to look much further down the trail ahead and that I was able to relax my usual death grip on the bars.
I used to have big issues while riding DH with forearm pump and hand cramping caused from working with frozen food for years. I wish I knew then what I know now about tuning my compression. I was doing everything ass backwards and paying a heavy price with pain and limited riding time.
I actually was surprised at how much speed my bike carried down the trail I was testing on when I got both settings dialed perfectly. I found myself needing to look much further down the trail ahead and that I was able to relax my usual death grip on the bars.
I used to have big issues while riding DH with forearm pump and hand cramping caused from working with frozen food for years. I wish I knew then what I know now about tuning my compression. I was doing everything ass backwards and paying a heavy price with pain and limited riding time.
If you think about rider position during really steep downhills the best set up would be that your rear suspension is set up a little softer than the front as most of your weight will be over the front end. You wouldn't want your forks using too much travel unless absolutely necessary as the geometry change would make for sketchy steering and potential headtube damage from the angle they would be at. What you do want though is your forks set up so that the high speed circuits are as opened up as possible without bottoming harshly. The rear of the bike will only take a fraction of the beating that the front end does when pointed down a steep decline.
i just read this entire thread, and am now going into my shed to play with the hi/lo adjuster a bit on my avy. I have it set like really soft with the LSC and rather stiff for the HSC because i thought thats what you needed for a smooth ride in rock gardens and a stiff shock for drops and such. The shock felt really stiff and hard in fast rocky sections, and now i know why. thankyou.
also, whats a g-out?
also, whats a g-out?
Wierd. I usually lean way back when I start going down steep downhills.
You are correct. I should have said weight placement on the bike not rider position. Although you are leaning back, your front end is weighted much more so going down steeps than it would be if you are on flat ground.
A "G-out" is when you roll down a steep dip and then reach the bottom and transition to level again. Your weight causes the rear end of your bike to compress and many times bottom out completely. You lose potential speed and also run the risk of hitting a sharp bump right when you are already bottomed out which would not be fun.
Long travel suspension sometimes can work against you in the case of those type of forces. You want to have the bike stay in its correct geometry as you reach the bottom of the "bowl" not compress unessesarilly.
If you take some videos of yourself rolling in a skatepark type bowl you would see how close your rear tire gets to your seat as you g-out at the bottom. You don't need suspension at that point as it's not helping you. Now picture the same type of roll in on a trail that has a nasty rut at the bottom of it. If you set up your LSC properly, you'll still be high in the travel when you reach the bottom of the roll in and the HSC will open up to swallow the rut and not bottom if you adjsted it just right beforehand.
No, I still don't think so.
You may TRANSFER your weight forward when you use the front brake on steep slopes, and then you are applying a force which is compressing the front fork, but it doesn't mean your weight is on the fork, it's just "transferred", and when you let off of the brakes it goes back up again. This is why we lean back in the first place, so we aren't transfering so much weight to the front that it ejects us when we hit a root or something.
You go ride a steep hill, and when you're not using brakes tell me what your fork sag is and how it compares to flat ground. I'd bet it isn't that much different because you're already compensating by shifting your weight far back. If you don't keep weight on that rear wheel it will start to slide and drift, not to mention the endo problems you'll have.
And I also don't want LSC keeping my suspension from compressing due to G-forces, because depending on wheelpaths, it will mess up my center of gravity within a turn and not cause my wheelbase to shorten, which in turn would make my bike less maneuverable in the turn (if the suspension doesn't compress).
And I also don't want LSC keeping my suspension from compressing due to G-forces, because depending on wheelpaths, it will mess up my center of gravity within a turn and not cause my wheelbase to shorten, which in turn would make my bike less maneuverable in the turn (if the suspension doesn't compress).[/QUOTE]
In your situation you do want some suspension movement but not an excessive amount which is the point I'm trying to make. I agree that it's not correct to run your rear end with so much LSC compression that it doesn't move at all for banking sharp corners like you described. You want to find the right amount so that your bike remains high enough in the travel to take any sudden jarring bumps but is compressed enough that your wheel base is where you want it.
One extreme is no better than the other regarding too much or to little damping. Find the point where the bike handles in a stable manor on low and high frequency bumps,dips,berms etc.
In your situation you do want some suspension movement but not an excessive amount which is the point I'm trying to make. I agree that it's not correct to run your rear end with so much LSC compression that it doesn't move at all for banking sharp corners like you described. You want to find the right amount so that your bike remains high enough in the travel to take any sudden jarring bumps but is compressed enough that your wheel base is where you want it.
One extreme is no better than the other regarding too much or to little damping. Find the point where the bike handles in a stable manor on low and high frequency bumps,dips,berms etc.
Here's a photo of my bike the way I used to have it specd with the rear end compressed fully. This is also the way the bike used to look when I landed on a tranny then reached the bottom and g-d out. Check out the forks...they look like a chopper! 9.5" of rear travel is too much to use in that type of situation but is exactly what running too little LSC caused. If the bike were to hit another sharp bump right then it would likely buck me or damage my rim as something has to give.
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ahhh - I see the problem here.... you're trying to control the rear travel using just the damper.
Most bikes now-a-days use springs. Bendy spiral wire that stores energy.
Try one... you'll find it makes things easier and you'll need less low, medium, high and superhigh damping.
(sorry, couldn't resist).
Most bikes now-a-days use springs. Bendy spiral wire that stores energy.
Try one... you'll find it makes things easier and you'll need less low, medium, high and superhigh damping.
(sorry, couldn't resist).
so you want to set the low speed so that it stops the bike from diving in corners and braking, but not too much so that traction isn't loss?
at this point i think everyone can agree that ice cream is good.
Pretty much it. Myself and Udi have done fairly extensive testing of LSC settings (seriously we have a couple of YEARS of comparisons between different forks set up with different amounts of LSC) and generally found that the bike works best with as much LSC as you can run without making it too harsh. Boxxers are really good like this. And like Udi, I have not been able to notice any difference when cranking up LSC on 40s.. it's like the adjuster isn't actually attached to anything. HSC I haven't fiddled so much with (on 40s) but generally I run it backed a fair way out on my Boxxers. Honestly I haven't had big problems with blowing through travel due to hard hits, it's more in g-outs and stuff where the LSC helps a lot more than HSC. Maybe we don't have enough 60km/h rock gardens in Aus though.
Also, I think a lot of confusion between high and low speed damping comes from the fact that high SPEED is not necessarily caused by a large HIT and vice versa. Landing a drop or jump from a long way up compresses the suspension relatively slowly, whereas hitting a 3" high stone or root compresses it VERY quickly. The reason landing from a long way up feels "big" to a person is because the total impulse (force x time) is big, not the peak force/acceleration. When the time period over which a force is applied is elongated, your arms and legs are compressed more before they're relieved of the force, so you notice it a lot more.
Low speed compression (and rebound) also affect traction on a smaller-amplitude level (eg smoother ground, not when you're wanting the bike to track over big bumps and ruts), because when suspension oscillations reach a certain low amplitude/high frequency, the actual shaft speed can be very low. For example, if your bike responded to the tiny amplitude of the knobs of the tyres and the high frequency bumps they cause when rolling over a smooth surface (LaharDesign reckons one of his old bikes did) you'd have a SUPER high frequency response but also very low shaft speed. To this end, if your low speed compression is set too high (especially if you have a mechanical stiction thing like SPV or whatever form of blowoff valve), you will actually start to lose out on traction. However it's worth noting that the natural frequency of a tyre tends to be much higher than the suspension, and so becomes more important in this situation (as frequency increases and bump amplitude decreases).
Hope this helps. BTW - suspension DAMPING "ramping up" with speed is also very confusing. Damping force always increases with speed anyway, but as Zedro has said, you generally want compression damping to be somewhat regressive, because LSC is used for vehicle stability and whatnot whereas the HSC deals more with actual bump absorption - freedom to follow bumps (to a certain degree) is good, whereas excess movement of any HPV chassis is bad. Rebound needs to be progressive however, to limit the maximum speed the suspension can return at (for stability of the vehicle), without unduly restricting the high amplitude (and thus often lower speed) part of the rebound stroke. MTB suspension has very high required shaft speeds though and so it's IMO quite difficult to tune rebound damping. 40s currently **** on everything else I've ridden in terms of rebound tuning.
Again though, everything is relative... if you think your setup is not optimal then either change it or go ride it and forget about it, cos at the end of the day it's just not that big a deal to most people.
Excellent post Socket, thank you! I've always laughed (and still do) when I hear anyone describe avalanches shocks as "overdamped". Unless you ride the bike fast over different types of bumps you will never realize that the valving is set up to respond to the types of hits and forces that it would encounter during a downhill run. Bouncing around in the parking lot or riding over low occilation type rolling bumps will only show you the low speed compression keeping the rear end from blowing through the travel to easily. People have this notion that the shocks will feel slow at high speeds too which is not the case at all. The rebound valving is also speed sensitive. When you encounter rapid square edged bumps, the shock reacts to them easily and loses that slow syrupy feeling you experience just pedaling the bike around.
im comming off a pike dual air so i know how well rock shox are doing things now adays. too bad the dual air was not in the catelogue for some reasonI'm impressed that someone who owns a fox can admit that. It's the experience both thaflyinfatman on here and I have had after testing at least 20 different fox40's between ourselves, so you're not alone and it's not a one-off issue IMO.
But that's another topic for another day. Try a new boxxer to see how the adjustments should work.
my friend's 40rc2's high speed compression worked so well you could feel the transition from the two zones. not very "cool". i hope i can warrenty my 07 for an 08.
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