[Orvan]

Originally posted by |S2|
More dorado questions. My fork is making a noise that does not seem right. It's basically a clunk that seems to happen on the rebound stroke. I initially thought it was the headset, but I don't think so now. It sounds like it is coming from the rebound side halfway down but I'm not sure. It does not seem to change if I adjust the rebound, but when I back out the comp adj it makes the noise really easy, if I set it to full comp it happens less easily. Any help would be greatly appreciated this is driving me crazy.

I'm stomped... possible guess would be an air contamination in the TPC+ chamber.. I see you're from Ventura, getting help form Answer shouldn't be too difficult.......or far away from..

Just ride it for a bit and see what happens then... (it's a new fork right?)

 

[|S2|]

Thanks for getting back to me. I think that's about all I can do. It will either go away or get worse. If it goes south on me, those guys at answer are good about turning stuff around fast.

 

[MisterMental]

more dorado Q's
orven as you prolly know i got me hands on a set of SC's
when i got them they were WAY too stiff
Q1) i cahnged the spring and not its really noisey, you can hear it rattle and it clicks every now and again as if reseating itself
q2)
its really linear and teh first inch or so is pretty firm and its crap on small bumbs
q3) ive got teh rebound wound right out, and its still not as fast as id like it, is there owt i can do?

and answers would be much appreciated

 

[SK6]

Looking forward to the Sherman Overhaul..

Thanks for your time in doing this dude!!!

 

[Orvan]

Originally posted by MisterMental
more dorado Q's
orven as you prolly know i got me hands on a set of SC's
when i got them they were WAY too stiff
Q1) i cahnged the spring and not its really noisey, you can hear it rattle and it clicks every now and again as if reseating itself
q2)
its really linear and teh first inch or so is pretty firm and its crap on small bumbs
q3) ive got teh rebound wound right out, and its still not as fast as id like it, is there owt i can do?

and answers would be much appreciated

if you were in the US, I would have said call Manitou Tech and Warranty...so I'll you go on this one.
The spring noise is probably caused by the lack of grease coating on the spring itself. I use thick grease (redrum for me specifically) to coat the spring. It tends to mute potential noise if and when the spring knocks on the side of the inner stanchion. So grease all the internal part of the spring side leg.

Too linear? Play with the compression adjustment at the bottom of the damper leg (right).

On question 3, possible symptom of an improperly bled damper. On the bleeding procedure, MikeD made a tool to properly bleed the IFP equipped TPC+ chambers. He maybe kind enough to provide specs on that. PM him, he's now got expertise on the SC..

 

[MisterMental]

i coated teh spring with mani2 grease when i swapped it over.
also im running the fork with no compression damping as its already a lil bit too stiff for me.

 

[blong]

Originally posted by |S2|
More dorado questions. My fork is making a noise that does not seem right. It's basically a clunk that seems to happen on the rebound stroke. I initially thought it was the headset, but I don't think so now. It sounds like it is coming from the rebound side halfway down but I'm not sure. It does not seem to change if I adjust the rebound, but when I back out the comp adj it makes the noise really easy, if I set it to full comp it happens less easily. Any help would be greatly appreciated this is driving me crazy.

that sounds like what my fork was doing right out of the box. it would clunk on rebound when i would push it into the travel. once it didn't clunk and my rebound stopped working altogether.

the manitou tech said my rebound plunger or something was sticking, and he replaced some stuff to make it better.

i'm not sure if that helps or not, but you'll probably want to have your fork looked at by manitou.

 

[Orvan]

Originally posted by blong
that sounds like what my fork was doing right out of the box. it would clunk on rebound when i would push it into the travel. once it didn't clunk and my rebound stopped working altogether.

the manitou tech said my rebound plunger or something was sticking, and he replaced some stuff to make it better.

i'm not sure if that helps or not, but you'll probably want to have your fork looked at by manitou.

yeah..that was the same deal on MikeD's rebound plunger because of the tight tight seal on the reb plunger top cap.. I just kinda "broke it in" manually..

 

[MisterMental]

Originally posted by Orven
yeah..that was the same deal on MikeD's rebound plunger because of the tight tight seal on the reb plunger top cap.. I just kinda "broke it in" manually..

right i think this is whats heppening with mine,
since i bought them from teh US im pretty sure teh uk mani2 distributor wont want to touch them, is there owt i can do myself? do i have to replace anything or will all this sort itself when its proper bedded in?

 

[MikeD]

Yeah, I can't say much to the spring except I lubed the crap out of mine (with basic Finish Line) and it's silent...

Don't know of anything to be done with the progression...I guess if you're brave, you could open the damper and change the fluid weight, but it's already pretty light at 5 wt.

My ghetto tool is a short length of 3/8" tubing, which friction-fits into the compression cart hole with the locknut screwed in to it. This runs into a large syringe (again a friction-fit of the hose and the syringe tip), but you don't use the plunger...you just fill the damper and keep filling until the tube and syringe combo is about a quarter full, then cycle the damper rod until there aren't any bubbles coming back up...give it a rest and do it again to get any last air out. Keep a cloth over top of the syringe while you cycle the rod, too...it can shoot fluid up if you go too fast. Then take the tube out of the leg, trying not to spill oil, remove the locknut, screw in the compression needle, and replace the locknut. If the damper rod returns slowly on its own after it's compressed, you did a good bleed.

I can try to get more detailed if you need to, but I really wouldn't recommend taking it apart.

Mine feels good with the softest spring...wish I could help you more.

-MD

 

[MisterMental]

how much motor oil should i put in my sc dorados?

 

[Orvan]

Originally posted by MisterMental
how much motor oil should i put in my sc dorados?

all forks safely allow 16cc of motor oil for lubing.. I stay about 10cc to negate any possibility of pressure build up..

 

[Orvan]

To clear things up from PMs received.

Stock 02 Dorado forks have the foam compensator..

 

[Orvan]

The 03 Dorados (or any upgraded 02s) have the IFP assembly and the Evil Genius semi-oil bath 30mm seals

 

[MisterMental]

ok cheers
so 10cc wouldnt be too much for teh SC version?

 

[MikeD]

I'm using 5cc and it's still blowing off from the top caps on the first few runs. I wouldn't use any more than this; over-oiling the fork can cause pressure buildup and travel loss.

MD

 

[MisterMental]

top ca[ps blowing off?!
that doenst sound good...

 

[Orvan]

Originally posted by MisterMental
top ca[ps blowing off?!
that doenst sound good...

read closely... he meant to say, the lubing oil is splashing out some through the top caps crevices bec there were prolly a bit too much oil in the legs... It's not like Judy fork top cap blowing off kinda thing..

 

[MisterMental]

ahhh ok
im gonna strip mine down tomorrow prolly, ill put 4cc in?
is that in each leg yeah?

 

[Orvan]

Originally posted by MisterMental
ahhh ok
im gonna strip mine down tomorrow prolly, ill put 4cc in?
is that in each leg yeah?

yes sir...

 

[MisterMental]

nice one, ill let ya know how it goes

 

[Orvan]

Originally posted by MisterMental
nice one, ill let ya know how it goes

Ok, I'll post procedures on how to bleed the Dorado TPC+ sealed chamber and with that, you cannot ask any more questions bec I think everything else has been answered or addressed with on this thread.

MAKE EM BLEED!

Remove damper leg off of the uppers. Clamp it on a work stand or something. Remove philips head screw that holds the Compression adjuster knob.

 

[Orvan]

with a 13mm open end wrench (or socket if you're that tight mechanic type), unscrew the compression needle locknut.

 

[Orvan]

Upon removal of the 13mm locknut, with your fingers, unscrew the compression needle and pull it out and set aside.

 

[Orvan]

Now for my ghetto bleed tool.
- I use a syringe I purchased from an auto parts store.
- 3/8" clear plastic tube
- the compression needle locknut from the fork

 

[Orvan]

Bleed kit preparation.

Remove plunger from the syringe. Wedge one end of the 3/8" plastic hose onto the syringe end and through the 13mm locknut.
That's it.

note: Thanks to MikeD for providing the plastic hose spec

 

[Orvan]

Screw the "Bleed Kit" in using the 13mm open end wrench.

Note: It's recommended to use a shorter length plastic hose to avoid the syringe from drooping when you pour the fork oil in. I could have easily taken another 1/4" or so off the hose I used in the picture.

 

[Orvan]

Bleed kit firmly secured, pour 5wt fork oil about 1/3 of the way through the syringe.

 

[Orvan]

I forgot to mention, before bleeding, make sure you dispose of the old oil in the damper. You can do so by removing the bottom cap of the damper leg which pulls out the compression rod assembly including the IFP, then pour the oil out. Replace with fresh new oil almost all the way to the top. Install the top cap (the whole compression assembly/IFP) back in the leg. Then follow the compression needle disassembly as discusses a few posts prior.

Back to topic.
After pouring the fork oil on top and settles, air pockets from the top part of the leg should rush out due to displacement.

 

[Orvan]

Grab the rebound rod and push it up slowly but firmly to force all air build up or bubbles out of the damper and onto the syringe. Do this for several minutes, cycling the oil back and forth until you are covinced that there aren't any more air bubbles coming out of the damper and onto the transparent syringe.

 

[Orvan]

Note:
Make sure the top of the syringe is blocked by some sort of a rag or something. Sometimes the force involved in cycling the oil in and out of the damper causes the oil to spew out some. I use a shop paper towel.

 

[Orvan]

Once satisfied that no air is present or seen coming out of the damper through the syringe, unscrew the 13mm nut to remove the "bleed kit." Have a drain bucket ready as oil from the syringe will be displaced and can cause some mess if you're not ready.

Then reinsert the compression needle back and screw it all the way in. Some oil will be displaced during this process.

 

[Orvan]

Remove the 13mm locknut temporarily used for the ghetto bleed kit and reinstall.

 

[Orvan]

Reinstall the compression adjuster knob.

 

[Orvan]

That's it.
To check if properly bled, push the reb rod down and if it's bled properly, the reb rod should slowly retract back out.

 

[Orvan]

Reinstall the lowers back on the fork and don't forget to pour 10cc of 5w40 motor oil from top of the fork.

 

[Orvan]

There you go. Happy Dorados.
No drilling of cartridges required and no independent fork oil height/viscosity blah blah blah ....

Stats:
Actual labor time: 17 mins
Cost: $2.76 (syringe)

Disclaimer: The following is not by any means endorsed by Manitou. There is not even a manual on how to bleed the dampers. All procedures were from gathered first hand knowledge of watching the MRD guys performing the covered task. Call Manitou Tech/Warranty if you have more questions.

 

[MikeD]

Originally posted by Orven
Note:
Make sure the top of the syringe is blocked by some sort of a rag or something. Sometimes the force involved in cycling the oil in and out of the damper causes the oil to spew out some. I use a shop paper towel.

My garage ceiling still drips 5wt on me when it's PO'd at me.

MD

 

[IntenseKid]

Orven i have:

Duckhams 20w-50 Motor Oil

Castrol 10w-40 Magnet Motor Oil


Can i use any of these to place on top of the seals ?


Thanks I-K

 

[Orvan]

Originally posted by IntenseKid
Orven i have:

Duckhams 20w-50 Motor Oil

Castrol 10w-40 Magnet Motor Oil


Can i use any of these to place on top of the seals ?


Thanks I-K

what do you mean on top of the seals?

you just pour oil in the legs. I dunno about the actual difference in viscosity of the varying oil types. It's mainly the texture. If the oil is too thin (light and runny), chances are the oil will just sip through the seals (they're not air tight seals).