just go full 29er already. would save us A LOT OF THREADS. you may have missed it while you were gone, but i hate scrolling, thx.
New Whip? New toys for the dependable steed?
- Thread starter mykel
- Start date
Any of you have much time on a Kona Process 134? Curious about impressions as a trail bike. I could actually get one within a year, I think.
Either remnants of Ida or some other tropical storm came through Southern Left 'rado and it rained all day yesterday.
Put a Fox integrated fender on the boys bike. Pretty impressed; clean, stout, and looks like it will work nicely.
Put a Fox integrated fender on the boys bike. Pretty impressed; clean, stout, and looks like it will work nicely.
I road one for a day and liked it. Pedaled well, very maneuverable. Handled some abuse well. I liked the GG Pistola a little bit more.
Since I have downtime I'm rebuilding rear wheel for 951
Going to go grab silver spokes silver nipples and lace it up ..the 823 was just too dented and hammered...
Going to go grab silver spokes silver nipples and lace it up ..the 823 was just too dented and hammered...
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I hate not having the right spoke length..
Went off qbp calculator and they are at least 2 to 3 mm to short.
2 cross
King gen 2 iso dh hub 12x150
Diameter 57.4
Left offset 38.5
Right offset 25
Dt swiss 26" fr570 ERD 535 32 hole
This is the lengths
left side 249.6 (249)
Right side 248.17 (248)
248 is about 2 mm to short. all the first row to left go in then you twist hub for 2 cross and it's 1.5 mm to short of threads going in hole...
Went off qbp calculator and they are at least 2 to 3 mm to short.
2 cross
King gen 2 iso dh hub 12x150
Diameter 57.4
Left offset 38.5
Right offset 25
Dt swiss 26" fr570 ERD 535 32 hole
This is the lengths
left side 249.6 (249)
Right side 248.17 (248)
248 is about 2 mm to short. all the first row to left go in then you twist hub for 2 cross and it's 1.5 mm to short of threads going in hole...
I usually try to run 3 or 4 calculators and see which ones agree and then try to figure out why or why one is showing something different. I've also realized rounding up is better and sometimes the listed "ideal" spoke length will sell you short, as in it's telling you if 247.3 is actual and 247 is "best"...it's not, 248 is "best" in that case to avoid coming up short. It's a bit frustrating figuring it all out usually to make sure, I usually write it down somewhere so I have my specs saved for each wheel I build.
They do look pretty nice, are there supply issues? They seem to be fairly easy to get in Aus.
Cotic ship bikes free to the US, they should have the FlareMAX in stock in a couple of months, similar thing but steel and 10mm less travel- https://www.cotic.co.uk/product/flareMAX#gritstone-blue-green
Yeah I've had pretty good luck with thr qbp calculator, I think the error is on the Chris king side....
Yeah so I have to get different spokes tomorrow...I'll take hub and shoe him the fitment and also the numbers so he can plug them in...
I'll just build it Sunday when wife's st work.
Or get one of those. In case they are too long you can cut them.
Hozan Spoke Threading Tool - Wheel Fanatyk
All self sufficient bicycle mechanics need to be able to cut spokes to length—there are far too many types to keep a ready back stock. The solution is a small, hand crank spoke threader and Hozan is certainly the best of these. While such tools have been made by Hozan and Cyclo (UK) for...
www.wheelfanatyk.com
Did you measure to make sure those numbers for your hub are correct? You might be able to make spokes that are 2mm too short work. If not, at least you know what size you need now. Every wheel builder has been there.
There’s always 16mm spoke nipples if you get in a pinch.
No bueno. If a spoke does not thread through the head of a nipple, the nipple will break.
They are too tight even with hub flange centered no off set they won't start the 2 cross that's where it's 2mm or so too short to engage in nipples.
Correct you want it into the head, through the rim wall for support
They won't even hit the rim wall let alone the head...
So I'll run it down Hun and rim, I'll grab some 250 for long side and 249 short side...
Correct. That said, I have built over 700 wheels, and I have done this ‘in a pinch’, even with alloy nipples, on wheels that lasted four 4 or five years. So it’s not as catastrophic of a solution as you might think. But, not DH wheels, so there is that.
EDIT: Also depends on your smash-smashy factor.
EDIT: Also depends on your smash-smashy factor.
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Yeah, I've had ones that were a little short on the engagement, re-lace with 14 or 16 brass and they are solid thereafter. I have so damn many lying around from spokes I've bought in the past where the online shop or whatever took out the "nice" nipples and put in these crap heavy brass ones...but I guess the joke is on them in the end, since they are proving useful. IME, eventually the galvanization catches up with carbon rims and alloy nipples, despite prep and anno, it just takes at least a few years/seasons. Not bad to build with alloy knowing this, but these brass make perfect replacements down the road if you want to go that route. Especially when your thread engagement was not "optimal". Obviously it could be so far that it's not even sufficient for this, but I echo what rideit experiences.
Gonna grab spokes later...going to take em both and have it looked at...it doesn't line up with kings manual on em and dt is on the side so I know it's good...
A friend hooked up a yellow shock, so I grabbed the matching swedish meatball fork.
27.5 rear wheel finished, and some real tires. The DH slush fund is officially empty...
Geo currently 62.5 HA, 345mm BB height, 443mm chainstay, with 46mm offset crowns on the Ohlins (from 59mm with the stock Boxxer).
Was hoping to ride the lift today, but the wife got called in so maybe next weekend. Shreds in the yard though!
27.5 rear wheel finished, and some real tires. The DH slush fund is officially empty...
Geo currently 62.5 HA, 345mm BB height, 443mm chainstay, with 46mm offset crowns on the Ohlins (from 59mm with the stock Boxxer).
Was hoping to ride the lift today, but the wife got called in so maybe next weekend. Shreds in the yard though!
No I 3x....I was going to build a lighter setup and decided I need to quit chasing the great white rhino and just ride...so went 3x...
the featherweight plowmaster who always builds 3x and never destroys wheels is pleased with your response.
Lmfao...
My kidney is black and blue as well now lol...
It just keeps getting better ...gonna have to hang with plowmaster and get light....
Interested to hear your thoughts on the fork.A friend hooked up a yellow shock, so I grabbed the matching swedish meatball fork.
27.5 rear wheel finished, and some real tires. The DH slush fund is officially empty...
Geo currently 62.5 HA, 345mm BB height, 443mm chainstay, with 46mm offset crowns on the Ohlins (from 59mm with the stock Boxxer).
Was hoping to ride the lift today, but the wife got called in so maybe next weekend. Shreds in the yard though!
View attachment 164507
Initial Ohlins DH38 thoughts;
High quality, poor QC.
All the crown bolts had so much loctite on them the hex was rounding when torquing, and both tubes slipped in the crown the first time I rode it. I had to pull all the bolts and run them through a nut a few times, and use a wire brush to get some of the loctite off. Now they are holding. A shame because they are nice little custom bolts, not some off the shelf black oxide jobbies.
It sits really high in the travel and feels stiff in the parking lot. I tried to set it up with 20% sag in the garage, and it would use 90% of the travel on a 2' flat drop. So I went with the recommended pressures and it gets maybe 15-20mm of sag, but feels fine when riding around the yard. Actually feels really good; very controlled and solid, but not harsh.
Can't wait to ride it on some trails, I like the 3rd air chamber for tuning the end of the travel. Much better than volume spacers in the air chamber.
High quality, poor QC.
All the crown bolts had so much loctite on them the hex was rounding when torquing, and both tubes slipped in the crown the first time I rode it. I had to pull all the bolts and run them through a nut a few times, and use a wire brush to get some of the loctite off. Now they are holding. A shame because they are nice little custom bolts, not some off the shelf black oxide jobbies.
It sits really high in the travel and feels stiff in the parking lot. I tried to set it up with 20% sag in the garage, and it would use 90% of the travel on a 2' flat drop. So I went with the recommended pressures and it gets maybe 15-20mm of sag, but feels fine when riding around the yard. Actually feels really good; very controlled and solid, but not harsh.
Can't wait to ride it on some trails, I like the 3rd air chamber for tuning the end of the travel. Much better than volume spacers in the air chamber.
Done!!!!
M9 27.5 rear 29 front
Laced up my 29" front did procore threw a assguy on it....
14.4bb, 49.75 wb 38lbs and got avy woody on rear avy cart on 40...
M9 27.5 rear 29 front
Laced up my 29" front did procore threw a assguy on it....
14.4bb, 49.75 wb 38lbs and got avy woody on rear avy cart on 40...
Thanks to @Redwood Mulch Chucker 's upgrade to some black gold I was able to get my hands on a like new takeoff 29er Boxxer RC for my Nukeproof Mega 290 project. Downhill F'n rules and the dependable steed is now effectively a downhill bike that can be pedalled with the fork and long shocking. Can't wait to get her to the lift. The increase in front end stiffness that can felt just hopping on the bike is exactly what I was looking for. It's amazing how much of a noodle a single crown is between the fork and stem/steerer flex.
Fingers crossed that the ol head tube doesn't rip off....
Fingers crossed that the ol head tube doesn't rip off....
The new boxxer is a great fork...I should have kept mine. Should have messed with it a bit tune wise...light and stiff...
Love the looks of it and the debonair is nice...
Bike looks kick @$$....congrats
Nice, that's a killer project!
My boy has a carbon version 290, first Nukeproof I've gotten my hands on. Impressed with pretty much everything, those bikes kick ass. Looking forward to him outgrowing it.
My boy has a carbon version 290, first Nukeproof I've gotten my hands on. Impressed with pretty much everything, those bikes kick ass. Looking forward to him outgrowing it.
Yea, gotta play round with it some and get it to some proper trails to get things dialed. Started with the settings that were listed out by that Griz fella over at Vital that was listed in the new Session review. Running a far higher psi than RS recommended is the way to go apparently with all the Debonair forks. RS listed 118 for my weight, but 135 actually provides spring support. Just sitting on the thing at 118 felt completely wrong.
Yeah I was over what they recommended for sure, doesn't bother me. Their recommendations are to give me a starting point and go from there...never put alot of trust in those being end all...just a good starting point ...however my issue has been mid travel support on alot of forks...the boxxer was pretty consistent through the mid stroke which was great. But I wanted a change to try something different and I think I pulled the trigger a bit too fast ..
I have been eyeballing getting another one with the 2.1 damper
Think I overpaid ($180) a little, but it is brand new and a bit older. If anyone has a lock on a set of ts-2EXT.3 extensions let me know...
I want a set to do 29" wheels and a larger set of claws at some point.
I can build & true 29 now just not with wheel on...so ill let it pay for itself then make it pay for it's upgrades.
I want a set to do 29" wheels and a larger set of claws at some point.
I can build & true 29 now just not with wheel on...so ill let it pay for itself then make it pay for it's upgrades.
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It's progress. Should have some energy to finish putting it together in the next week or two.
Prime or Titan?