Could be the New saints?
Do happen to look a little like my old E4 hopes i had back in 02. but im sure they are a lot better
that'd be cool. also worth noting the first gen saint calipers had backloading brake pads as well.Interesting. They appear to be lighter, and that top loading design looks ripe for one of their heatsink pad set ups. Hopefully the lever gets less plastic as well.
i guess they dont care about hiding them by leaving them raw for this weekend.I hope they leave them raw.
and some speed holesStill looks like an early prototype. There is alot of material that can be milled away.
Definitely an early version. Shimano usually machines their protos (cheaper, easier to make changes) and forges the final product. Personally, I've always liked the look of the protos better.Still looks like an early prototype. There is alot of material that can be milled away.
Would they automatically adjust when you use the e-brake too?Just had a thought(without much thought as always), if they did one piece they could have and allen key on the piston caps you could wind in for pad contact adjust. Feel free to use that Shimanno, I just want a lifetime supply of brakes and pads.
Not a screw in piston, a screw in piston cover to reduce the chamber volume.if you have a screw in piston, how do you expect them to actuate via the hydraulic pressure?
whats the difference between the xtr trail and new 2012 xt levers? they look the same.Moar feel would be moar important than moar power IMO. Hope they have XTR levers too. Would be sick.
whats the difference between the xtr trail and new 2012 xt levers? they look the same.
Consistency/bleed issues more than anything else I think. When they're working as intended, they're absolutely brilliant, but they do always have a really long throw too.I cant understand why everyone hates the old levers. They are long (which is good) and have a nice feel to them. The bite adjust does work like crap but what makes you think it will work better in the XTRs?
Not that you need them with Saints.Edit: really, really hope these have the cooling finned pads...
I may not be complaining about that as much since i went to saints from the oros The lever throw doesnt have to be that big with the proper setup, though Im suprised it changes even more with pad wear than the formulas.Consistency/bleed issues more than anything else I think. When they're working as intended, they're absolutely brilliant, but they do always have a really long throw too.
Edit: really, really hope these have the cooling finned pads...
Yeah man, even in Australia I can do it if I'm not paying attention... there are NO brakes on the market that are hard to overheat right now IMO!I may not be complaining about that as much since i went to saints from the oros The lever throw doesnt have to be that big with the proper setup, though Im suprised it changes even more with pad wear than the formulas.
btw. You really manage to overheat saints ? Im pretty sure you are faster than me and even when I was dead tired and didnt really feel it in champery (=mucho braking) they didnt boil. Never happen to me tbh but Im 74kg w/o gear so that may be a factor.
They're not very reliable, if you read the thread here about the XTR trail brakes there's a long list of people who had to get the Saint M810 levers warrantied multiple times. The lever throw being long and/or changing is to do with fluid slowly leaking out of the master cylinder cap.I cant understand why everyone hates the old levers. They are long (which is good) and have a nice feel to them. The bite adjust does work like crap but what makes you think it will work better in the XTRs?
Looks like the same resi. body with a beefed up lever. Pivot looks a little different too.these are the proto levers Gwin is using
With a working pad contact adjusterPersonally I hope they use a redesigned version of the new XT/XTR trail lever for the new one, hopefully with a longer lever blade than those though.
Codes with Motul RBF 660 brake fluid. Maybe that heat dissipator pads from unex but Ive seen some heavy dudes using race brake fluids not the crap avid or other companies sell and they never had problems. One of my friends is around your weight and he gets away with racing on avid ultimates.Yeah man, even in Australia I can do it if I'm not paying attention... there are NO brakes on the market that are hard to overheat right now IMO!
The Gray Fluid is pretty normal mate. Had that many times, nothing is wrong.Not that you need them with Saints.
Had some problems with dirt in the servowave mechanics of my Saint levers.
My front brake lever got stuck in the outermost position several times.
And I think they should have added a seal/diaphragm between the piston push rod and the housing of the levers. Because dirt can enter there and the piston seal is running on dirty surface then plus dirt is contaminating the brake fluid this way.
Had this problem in Morzine, where we rode in absolutely ****ty wheater conditions for full two weeks.
Bled the brakes with fresh fluid before we went there, noticed grey fluid when I opened the reservoir after half a week riding in mud.
Pretty sure it's not the fluid that Socket is talking about, it's just the pads/rotors overheating and then fading/glazing. I haven't had fluid boiling/failing on any recent brake, and I don't think he has either.Codes with Motul RBF 660 brake fluid. Maybe that heat dissipator pads from unex but Ive seen some heavy dudes using race brake fluids not the crap avid or other companies sell and they never had problems. One of my friends is around your weight and he gets away with racing on avid ultimates.