i second that, give him a call.
slickest of the steel garage dh frames ?
- Thread starter vitox
- Start date
WOW! The first one is kinda ugly, but the second frame is really clean looking! I'd rock em both
send him an email...
i can pm it to you if you need it.
i can pm it to you if you need it.
Small Package!
Getting ready to start building
Close up of derailleur hanger
Got my new forks
Thats how far I got in a day or so. my 83mm gravity lights should be here in a couple days.
The different shock holes are really cool. im running my 8.75" shock in the 9" setting and it makes it a bit lower and slacker and longer so its going to be super fast.
Hello ; Saw your uneducated reply on tig vs brazing on Ridemokey, I am a FAA licensed inspector and am FAA qual. in welding , been fusing steels together for 50years on race cars ,aircraft and bikes.
To make a long story short brazing cro-mo induces micro cracks in cr-mo. Think about it = 2 metals with different expansion and contraction coefficients , when it cools it cracks .
There's a old FAA alert notice that any primary structures(ie engine mounts) found to be brazed are un-airworthy .
These micro cracks under hi-vibration produces failure. OK on bikes= never see these cycling aptitudes.
I wrote the book on welding the strongest steel tubing on the planet, Aremet 100 ( 285.000Ksi yield) basically a 4130 but it is high in nickel,and cobalt content , when brazing this stuff it cracks right in front of your eyeballs'.
As far as heat on cromo, it loves it, your heat zone is narrower and your moving faster than brazing,so tig has little effect on the base metal . As far as loading the zone ,that's what butted tubing is for ,or using gussets ..
Don't forget all the toxic fumes your loading up on ,the flux that cleans and rids the area of Oxy is also etching your lungs.
All those WW2 airplanes (ie DC3) still flying around were Gas welded "BT" (before tig) these were special torches made for aircraft with double mixing chambers to produce a extrmely hot and narrow netural flame.
I fuse high alloy metals with aThermalarc Ultima 150 , Plasma tourch (no electrode just a beam of plasma) very narrow intense heat and fast.
I enjoyed your frame building site ,it is a great resource for a novice builder , " its not the bike frame, its the fixturing that makes a frame"
the more u know the more u dont know; great site ,thk/u,gus/ owner Arrow Racing/ www.arrowracong.con
gus, I believe you meant www.arrowracing.com
Sick!
Any pics of the finished bike?
Used on F-22 landing gear ,Half shafts on Penskes Indy cars,primary fasterners on airplanes ,and armor. Carpenter Technologies USA decided to introduce it in bike industry in tube form (.020" straight gauge) ,Back in 94 I built bike frames with it ,including Team Jamis xc frames,
It required special technics, not for the average builder ,its basicly a tool steel ,and about $100/ft. I have about 30 tubes sets left ,and one day when I have time , I'll build a the "last waltz" ..
thk/u,gus.
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I completely agree. Apples and oranges side note: Bell's single engine mediums...205, uh-1 etc, have terrible trouble with their engine mounts cracking....they are tig welded...but they are way under designed....(company I work for makes aftermarket ones that are machined from solid.....)
how much heavier is it than "standard" reynolds brands steel say? and what does normal sht cost if this is $100/ft??
In a couple days I should.
The geo of the 8.75" in the 9" setting is:
BB-13.5"
Head angle- around 63 or 64
Heres the full bike built up and at the top of my local mountain.
The bike feels great. its firm at first but when you push its able to suck up anything so its very nimble feeling. the small bump sensitivity is great as well, and it doesn't pedal half bad with my setup.
The bike feels great. its firm at first but when you push its able to suck up anything so its very nimble feeling. the small bump sensitivity is great as well, and it doesn't pedal half bad with my setup.
Hey is that at SFU?Heres the full bike built up and at the top of my local mountain.
The bike feels great. its firm at first but when you push its able to suck up anything so its very nimble feeling. the small bump sensitivity is great as well, and it doesn't pedal half bad with my setup.
Small bump sensetivity? Is that when you're not pedalling or braking? or did you measn it's sensitive when pedaling or braking? I'd imagine it pedals great on smoother tracks. Do they make a floater or idler for them?
Looks good otherwise. Stay off the brakes and I'm sure it'll eat anything it hits.
yup that is SFU.
and what i mean by small bump sensitivity is that it can soak up small fast bumps without locking up like other designs
and what i mean by small bump sensitivity is that it can soak up small fast bumps without locking up like other designs
why does your bike in the pic look 3times too small for you. what are you like 8feet tall?
Awesome build man i am currently finishing building mine up hopefully soon i will have some pictures of it.
It probably says somewhere in here but I dont feel like looking through 12 pages....but what is the leverage ratio on that bike... The shock looks tiny and I think you mentioned 9 inches of travel. That has to be almost 4 to 1. Do you have a thousand pound spring on it?
DHS- I'm only like 5'11 or 6'. It doesn't feel that small at all.
Luckeybikes- thanks. what parts are you going to have on it?
missiongravity- I have a 350 spring on there right now and I'm guessing that I'm getting 7.5 inches of travel. but I put my 8.75" eye to eye shock in the setting thats meant for the 9" eye to eye. But the stock 9.5" eye to eye gets 8.5 I think? not sure but its around page 9 or something.
Luckeybikes- thanks. what parts are you going to have on it?
missiongravity- I have a 350 spring on there right now and I'm guessing that I'm getting 7.5 inches of travel. but I put my 8.75" eye to eye shock in the setting thats meant for the 9" eye to eye. But the stock 9.5" eye to eye gets 8.5 I think? not sure but its around page 9 or something.
how do i purchase one of these frames?
hater
Nah not at all,I think it's great.I just think it'd be twice the bike with an floater and idler.
Mine gonnna have 07 Boxxer team, DHX, Azonic Outlaws and so on gonna be pretty sweet i think when its all done.
Just finished mine last week. Now all i need is the snow to go away.
The bike rides really well! but it does have some chain pull, only when your going uphill though. It is very nimble. The suspension feels stiff when your just riding around, but when you really want to use the travel it just opens up and becomes softer, not super soft, so it cant still handle very well. one of the mechanics I know said to pump up the platform on my swinger to about 140 when I said I was getting allot of bob. It definitely worked because I get very little bob now and it still feels great.
As I mentioned many times now... I have my shock set up in the 9" eye to eye and I have a 8.75" eye to eye shock. this lowers the bike and slackens the head angle. I also lowered my 888's to 7" of travel making the front lower.
This is a awesome bike, it feels just as fast as my IH Yakuza Kumicho, even faster I think. It has adjustable geometry which is another point... The Morewood has adjustable geo but costs significantly more than this. It is very versatile as well, you can have it with more of a slow race course geo (slightly steeper, and higher bb, which could also be used as a freeride style bike), or you could have the geo in the full blown race bike style.
Overall, again, this bike is awesome.
Hope this helps.
Mitchell
I just finished this bike a few weeks ago, it has been stuck in the garage since it has been raining so much. It was a school project for my single track vehicle design class at Cal Poly. All the tubing is 4130, while the drop outs and shock mounts are 4140. I did all the design work and machining, my friend Dan finished it all off with some amazing welds. My general design direction was inspired by SWD bikes because they have a very simple layout and seem to hold up. When doing the design weight was not one of my main concerns - you can see that in the drop outs. I wanted a bike that would not break. Right now the bike is riding a little lower and slacker then its supposed to due to the wrong length rear shock. Also the cranks are really long - all i had lying around were 175's. With the correct rear shock these are the measurements for the bike:
Head Angle: 67.5
Chain Stays: 16.9in
Front Travel: 5in
Rear Travel: 4.5 (via a 2in stroke shock)
Bottom Bracket Height: 12.5in
Top Tube Length: 22in
The bike was designed to be a mini dh/4x bike. It corners really well and pedals much better then I would have expected. The bike is extremely stable on technical downhills considering how much travel it has.
What do you all think?
Head Angle: 67.5
Chain Stays: 16.9in
Front Travel: 5in
Rear Travel: 4.5 (via a 2in stroke shock)
Bottom Bracket Height: 12.5in
Top Tube Length: 22in
The bike was designed to be a mini dh/4x bike. It corners really well and pedals much better then I would have expected. The bike is extremely stable on technical downhills considering how much travel it has.
What do you all think?
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wicked. cool dual downtube. love the look of skinny steel tubes. i want a steel bike again.
the Majin frames look very very good... Do they have like a site or something where i can find some more info?
i just can't seem to find how to pm him via this website I have also tried sending emails to contact so i can purchase a frame, and 3 weeks later still no reponse.
Can anyone that owns one email me and let me know a better way to contact him? I really want to buy one
Can anyone that owns one email me and let me know a better way to contact him? I really want to buy one
if it is this difficult to buy a frame, imagine the warranty ... move along, it ain't worth it.
You think that frame comes with a warranty?