The garage frame building journey
- Thread starter sikocycles
- Start date
I am not sure yet. Maybe Fusion 360? Not sure. Any suggestions?
I work with a bunch of engineers and they know Creo and Fusion so I can get some help.
I would run my old Dorado.
I work with a bunch of engineers and they know Creo and Fusion so I can get some help.
I would run my old Dorado.
My bike engineer friends use Creo. The rear end defines a lot of things and your jig might do the rest. Do you need full on Creo? Seems very complicated to use well.
I threw some parts on it and here’s where I left off. This is in 170mm front and 150mm rear travel mode with a 185x55mm shock with extender. It feels pretty good and measures spot on. I’m real happy with how it turned out.
I threw some parts on it and here’s where I left off. This is in 170mm front and 150mm rear travel mode with a 185x55mm shock with extender. It feels pretty good and measures spot on. I’m real happy with how it turned out.
We use Creo mainly at work. I was thinking just make a jib at the pivot and BB locations and go from there. If the location is the same we maybe good
I have a top guide integrated into the pivot.
I would make one but I haven’t wanted a bash guard yet. I have some Syncros chain guides from the Gambler that i could use.
Sikocycles - I honestly don't know if all the fronts are the same or not. If they were, you could set up your smash front triangle in your jig as if it had the front axel to crown distance the Smash geo table is built around. Then, holding the position of the rear axle constant in the same spot, rotate the frame up and back to the point it would be with the front axel to crown distance in the gnarvana geo table.
Then set your ISCG points relative to horitzontal. IF this were how it works, GG would only have to make slightly different ISCG mounts that are clocked slightly differently for each model.
Then set your ISCG points relative to horitzontal. IF this were how it works, GG would only have to make slightly different ISCG mounts that are clocked slightly differently for each model.
All the fronts triangles are the same. The seat stays change for changing models.
I do need to find an ISCG drawing to copy.
I need to order a hardware kit and chainstays. Will start that after my hardtail build.
will be my park bike.
I do need to find an ISCG drawing to copy.
I need to order a hardware kit and chainstays. Will start that after my hardtail build.
will be my park bike.
That’s more or less how I have been doing it. Use a frame I like to set up parts of the jig and then squint eye the rest.
@sikocycles Have you seen how the Cobra jig uses BikeCad to set up the jig with only a couple measurements from BikeCad. I wonder if your jig could be used like that?
It probably could if I set the Headtube straight up. Maybe I will try on my next build and see
I cheat and steal setups from other frames I like. Kind of like a pattern. Do you have a frame that you like the reach and head angle relative to the bb?
I would make the new Gnarvana frame a little longer and gusset the Headtube for the dorado I have.
Sounds like a plan!
I do like the Skynet jig. I fI had one of the welding tables I would make one.
My backbone of mine is the 160x80. It is heavy
My backbone of mine is the 160x80. It is heavy
I gave in to new tool lust.
I got a blade smithing forge that can do double duty for bike work. It has an opening at each end so you can make swords, but its also useful for passing long tubes.
If I try to bend a 2" OD 6061 T6 down tube, I can only get about 5 degrees before it makes a tremendous bang, and separates into (2) pieces plus a pile of aluminum dust.
The solution is to anneal the tubes first. I previously used temperature indicating paint on the inside of the tube, then would slowly cook the outside with a hand torch until the paint on the inside would start burning off. The forge will simplify this operation.
Also dual purpose for blade smithing and bikes is a small heat treating furnace. It has a long lead time, so it will be a while before I have it. The electrician was out yesterday to make plans for a power source for the furnace. It will take a new electrical panel, and at nema 6-50R outlet.
The internal dimensions are 27" by 13" by 11", so it wont take a whole frame, or even a front triangle,
but my plan is to make 6061 sub assemblies, then heat treat them to T6, then join them with carbon fiber tubes. The point of the carbon is not to save weight (* I'm sasquatch sized so I like overbuilding relative to industry standard), but rather to eliminate the step of the building process of having to mail stuff to Colorado for a heat treat, and to put any straightening that is needed after the quench and before the bake, into my hands.
I decided to go with MRP progressive spring, which will mean a 65mm stroke shock, but will allow me to keep single pivot, and still have some progressivity. The MRP guys say the 600# spring adds 26% relative to the fox regular steel 600#. You can order whatever spring bushing kit for non MRP brand shocks.
I'm going with zee cranks as a cheap option for sasquatch use with readily available and inexpensive BB's.
Mr Hadley's Super Duper Boost, 12mm by 150mm with microspline. A 34 Wolf Tooth ring for DH days, and a 32 for messing around on local non-dh trails. A cool feature of idler bikes, is I don't think the anti-squat effect will change very much switching between the 2 ring sizes.
Also, my idler gear from my old Jedi.
One really nice benefit of "DUAL USE TOOLS" is in this case, Mrs. LobsterCT is paying for 1/2 of all the bladesmithing stuff, and the electrical work!
I got a blade smithing forge that can do double duty for bike work. It has an opening at each end so you can make swords, but its also useful for passing long tubes.
If I try to bend a 2" OD 6061 T6 down tube, I can only get about 5 degrees before it makes a tremendous bang, and separates into (2) pieces plus a pile of aluminum dust.
The solution is to anneal the tubes first. I previously used temperature indicating paint on the inside of the tube, then would slowly cook the outside with a hand torch until the paint on the inside would start burning off. The forge will simplify this operation.
Also dual purpose for blade smithing and bikes is a small heat treating furnace. It has a long lead time, so it will be a while before I have it. The electrician was out yesterday to make plans for a power source for the furnace. It will take a new electrical panel, and at nema 6-50R outlet.
The internal dimensions are 27" by 13" by 11", so it wont take a whole frame, or even a front triangle,
but my plan is to make 6061 sub assemblies, then heat treat them to T6, then join them with carbon fiber tubes. The point of the carbon is not to save weight (* I'm sasquatch sized so I like overbuilding relative to industry standard), but rather to eliminate the step of the building process of having to mail stuff to Colorado for a heat treat, and to put any straightening that is needed after the quench and before the bake, into my hands.
I decided to go with MRP progressive spring, which will mean a 65mm stroke shock, but will allow me to keep single pivot, and still have some progressivity. The MRP guys say the 600# spring adds 26% relative to the fox regular steel 600#. You can order whatever spring bushing kit for non MRP brand shocks.
I'm going with zee cranks as a cheap option for sasquatch use with readily available and inexpensive BB's.
Mr Hadley's Super Duper Boost, 12mm by 150mm with microspline. A 34 Wolf Tooth ring for DH days, and a 32 for messing around on local non-dh trails. A cool feature of idler bikes, is I don't think the anti-squat effect will change very much switching between the 2 ring sizes.
Also, my idler gear from my old Jedi.
One really nice benefit of "DUAL USE TOOLS" is in this case, Mrs. LobsterCT is paying for 1/2 of all the bladesmithing stuff, and the electrical work!
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The DIY weld kits on ebay are pretty bomber
This is the one I bought. Was $500 with free shipping at the time. He has great YT videos.
looks like a solid kit for sure, Combat abrasives make the best belts as well. Are you going the treadmill motor/controller route?
@lobsterCT Yeah! Exciting design you got there.
What are you planning on using to bond the tubes in there? I would think that 3M Scotch Weld DP420 could be a good adhesive for glueing those tubes in the lugs.
What are you planning on using to bond the tubes in there? I would think that 3M Scotch Weld DP420 could be a good adhesive for glueing those tubes in the lugs.
I got a few things for framebuilding and finally fixed a broken press that I use for shock hardware mostly.
These CK torches and Furick cups are so much easier to be precise than the huge euro style torch I was using. Closer to a pencil than the log I had before.
I got some used work holding things.
The lathe chuck key was hastily made out of scrap last night. I kept some signs of origin like the bolt head and punch taper. That’s a bolt with the head ground square, welded in a tube with a punch as the handle. Shaped and polished on the lathe. It works good enough!
There are some miters where I was limited with clearance so this vice should give me more options on the horizontal mill. A dividing table would be nice but those are more expensive. I think this could also work well?
The press I finally got around to fixing. The handle broke off leaving a stub of the shaft inside that I had to drill out and weld back in there.
And finally a system I use for mitering and gusset shaping.
These CK torches and Furick cups are so much easier to be precise than the huge euro style torch I was using. Closer to a pencil than the log I had before.
I got some used work holding things.
The lathe chuck key was hastily made out of scrap last night. I kept some signs of origin like the bolt head and punch taper. That’s a bolt with the head ground square, welded in a tube with a punch as the handle. Shaped and polished on the lathe. It works good enough!
There are some miters where I was limited with clearance so this vice should give me more options on the horizontal mill. A dividing table would be nice but those are more expensive. I think this could also work well?
The press I finally got around to fixing. The handle broke off leaving a stub of the shaft inside that I had to drill out and weld back in there.
And finally a system I use for mitering and gusset shaping.
In an effort to be more comfortable when tacking and welding, I made a hinge to get better access. I think some rotation in addition would be nice too.
Mind sharing what that mitering setup is? Had any issues with overheating the tubes?
I use a Furick #10 clear cup. I need any advantage I can get.
Doing a wishbone seatstay on this frame.
Doing a wishbone seatstay on this frame.
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It is a small horizontal mill. I haven’t had any overheating issues probably due to the coolant. Works great and is easy to take off a tiny bit and work your way up little by little.
@gonefirefightin I will order some this morning. Thanks! I can’t see shit!
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I cant see shit either but between the clear cups and the new speedglas helmet it makes the welds much better.
All built up! I am very happy with this one and looking forward to the next one already. I learn so much each time that I can’t wait to apply it on the next one.
Garbaruk Cassette on AXS. I got a little crazy on the drivetrain spec. If there were ever a reason to go hard on a build I guess this frame is deserving?
I am still struggling on the tig welding but less than before so I am excited to see how it progresses.
Edoardo Bianca inspired seat clamp. I have a strange desire to imitate lug style.
I am still struggling on the tig welding but less than before so I am excited to see how it progresses.
Edoardo Bianca inspired seat clamp. I have a strange desire to imitate lug style.
I'm digging the bent seat tube. Much slicker than the welded version. Pinch bolt is a nice touch too, makes it look fancy.