[Full Trucker]

Alright, I just re-taped up my front wheel as the tubeless rim tape was getting a bit ragged and I have a slow leak I couldn't figure out. As such, the roll of WTB TCS rim tape I have is getting pretty low so I'm asking what other people have used with ¡Great Success! Could be a hack, a particular brand, whatever. What do you all like, what works for you?

Rim Tape and Strips that I've used:

1. Stan's yellow tape: works just fine. It's expensive-ish. Less so now that I have a job, but whatever.
2. WTB TCS tape: this is what I apparently have right now, and it seems to work great. I don't recall having any issues with it, but I did just put it on a very clean front wheel and am about to air it up and give'r a go so I'll report back. @DaveW asked about it in this thread so I guess I could report that "it's fine".
3. Guerrilla Tape: or however it's spelled. So... yeah. Works "great" ? I dunno, it's been a long time, and it does work, but it's thicker/heavier, has a BUNCH of gnarly adhesive on it, so I'm kind of not a fan really.
4. Various and sundry DT stuff that has come pre-installed on wheels: this stuff works awesome, looks super pro, is really thin so probably light, and the factory install has always been great. I don't know if my current slow leak issue is due to the rim tape being a little rough, or something else, so I'm just replacing it for good measure. EDIT: so I found the slow leak in the tire, and it was definitely a hole. Small enough to miss on inspection and mostly seal with sealant, but I did put a plug in it. So, with 1600+ hard miles on the factory installed DT rim strip I can say it's pretty dang good.
5. Stan's rubber rim strip thinger: I'm pretty sure I've used one of these things but don't really remember if it was worth a crap or not. Maybe someone with experience can chime in? It is discontinued, so that says something.
6. Split-tube rim strip setup: Honestly, ghetto tubeless is still IMNSHO the absolute best working, least chance of failure setup there is. It's also just a pain in the ass to set up, but once it's done it generally lasts the life of the tire without issue, 100% of the time.

Someone in real life (maybe it was @6thElement ?) was telling me they got a tip from a bike shop mechanic to use... something. I think it was strapping tape, which is essentially the same but can be had way cheaper than Stan's, WTB, etc. Was that you @6thElement or someone else? Anyone else used this stuff?

Some tips and hacks I've done:

• If I break a spoke, I have used a utility knife to score the tubeless rim tape on either side of the spoke hole and peeled up JUST that bit. Replace the spoke, then place a piece of rim tape over just that area, making sure to overlap the rim tape on either side. I've done this up to 3 times on one wheel with no issues. Dude I sold the bike to is likely still riding it like that.
• Last spoke I broke was a couple weeks ago, and the spoke broke in the middle rather than at the nipple so it didn't immediately fall into the rim cavity. Score! These wheels have straight-pull spoke, so I was able to clamp the nipple (heh heh) with a small pair of vice grips, untwist the broken spoke out of it, and then get the new spoke installed without even taking the tire (or rotor!) off the wheel.

Tubeless Valve Stems
So this is really just a dancing spot for future content. I've used a bunch of different valve stems, but have NO IDEA what brand they are. I know I've used Stan's, DT Swiss, Mavic, and probably a bunch of others. Some have a square-ish rubber end stopper, some are rounded. Some have a rubber O-ring gasket for the outside lockring, others do not.



PS - I did a search for "rim tape" in thread titles and turned up a few old threads, most of which were about rim tape for tubes. A couple that were tubeless specific are below...

Tubeless rim tape?

Has anyone used the WTB TCS rim tape? local importer has the TCS pretty cheap and I'm looking for alternatives to the Stans tape as that importer has the 30mm rolls at ridiculous prices (double the price of the 25mm rolls)

ridemonkey.bikemag.com

Stans yellow tape vrs rim strips?

I've been using the yellow tape on my flows but am thinking of swapping to the rim strips instead. Main reason being I've recently had to replace a spoke (stick in wheel) so had to remove the tape in order to get the new spoke in and have no more yellow tape. The rubber strips would be...

ridemonkey.bikemag.com

 

[6thElement]

Wasn't me. I've probably got 5 different brands downstairs. Most effective step for me is install the tape, then put in a tube pumped to a pretty high pressure and leave overnight if possible. Squishes the tape into the rim and hopefully gets rid of bubbles from my tape job.

 

[jonKranked]

pro tip to make a valve stem seal: cut a small piece of an old inner tube (people still have these sitting around, right?) down to about 1/2" x 1/2" (or a little smaller), use an awl or similar, poke a hole in the center, and shove the valve stem through it before installing in the rim. this has never not worked for me (although once i had to use 2 pieces of tube on a valve stem)

 

[jstuhlman]

i'm just a cheap lazy hack. gorilla tape's been my go-to for years.

 

[rideit]

I’ll need six months to evaluate my super-tape hack...

 

[jonKranked]

FWIW stan's stopped making their rim strips a while back

 

[StiHacka]

Alright, I just re-taped up my front wheel as the tubeless rim tape was getting a bit ragged and I have a slow leak I couldn't figure out. As such, the roll of WTB TCS rim tape I have is getting pretty low so I'm asking what other people have used with ¡Great Success! Could be a hack, a particular brand, whatever. What do you all like, what works for you?

Rim Tape and Strips

1. Stan's yellow tape: works just fine. It's expensive-ish. Less so now that I have a job, but whatever.
2. WTB TCS tape: this is what I apparently have right now, and it seems to work great. I don't recall having any issues with it, but I did just put it on a very clean front wheel and am about to air it up and give'r a go so I'll report back. @DaveW asked about it in this thread so I guess I could report that "it's fine".
3. Guerrilla Tape: or however it's spelled. So... yeah. Works "great" ? I dunno, it's been a long time, and it does work, but it's thicker/heavier, has a BUNCH of gnarly adhesive on it, so I'm kind of not a fan really.
4. Various and sundry DT stuff that has come pre-installed on wheels: this stuff works awesome, looks super pro, is really thin so probably light, and the factory install has always been great. I don't know if my current slow leak issue is due to the rim tape being a little rough, or something else, so I'm just replacing it for good measure.
5. Stan's rubber rim strip thinger: I'm pretty sure I've used one of these things but don't really remember if it was worth a crap or not. Maybe someone with experience can chime in? It is discontinued, so that says something.
6. Split-tube rim strip setup: Honestly, ghetto tubeless is still IMNSHO the absolute best working, least chance of failure setup there is. It's also just a pain in the ass to set up, but once it's done it generally lasts the life of the tire without issue, 100% of the time.

Someone in real life (maybe it was @6thElement ?) was telling me they got a tip from a bike shop mechanic to use... something. I think it was strapping tape, which is essentially the same but can be had way cheaper than Stan's, WTB, etc. Was that you @6thElement or someone else? Anyone else used this stuff?

Some tips and hacks I've done:

• If I break a spoke, I have used a utility knife to score the tubeless rim tape on either side of the spoke hole and peeled up JUST that bit. Replace the spoke, then place a piece of rim tape over just that area, making sure to overlap the rim tape on either side. I've done this up to 3 times on one wheel with no issues. Dude I sold the bike to is likely still riding it like that.
• Last spoke I broke was a couple weeks ago, and the spoke broke in the middle rather than at the nipple so it didn't immediately fall into the rim cavity. Score! These wheels have straight-pull spoke, so I was able to clamp the nipple (heh heh) with a small pair of vice grips, untwist the broken spoke out of it, and then get the new spoke installed without even taking the tire (or rotor!) off the wheel.

Tubeless Valve Stems
So this is really just a dancing spot for future content. I've used a bunch of different valve stems, but have NO IDEA what brand they are. I know I've used Stan's, DT Swiss, Mavic, and probably a bunch of others. Some have a square-ish rubber end stopper, some are rounded. Some have a rubber O-ring gasket for the outside lockring, others do not.



PS - I did a search for "rim tape" in thread titles and turned up a few old threads, most of which were about rim tape for tubes. A couple that were tubeless specific are below...

Tubeless rim tape?

Has anyone used the WTB TCS rim tape? local importer has the TCS pretty cheap and I'm looking for alternatives to the Stans tape as that importer has the 30mm rolls at ridiculous prices (double the price of the 25mm rolls)

ridemonkey.bikemag.com

Stans yellow tape vrs rim strips?

I've been using the yellow tape on my flows but am thinking of swapping to the rim strips instead. Main reason being I've recently had to replace a spoke (stick in wheel) so had to remove the tape in order to get the new spoke in and have no more yellow tape. The rubber strips would be...

ridemonkey.bikemag.com

Save yourself the trouble of using subpar products for the application or good products in expensive packaging because bike industry and get this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tesa-Tape-4289-no-tubes-tubeless-rim-wheel-tape-25mm-x-60yds-mtb-cx-gravel-road-/323296150866

 

[Full Trucker]

Wasn't me.

Dang it, who was it I wonder?

pro tip to make a valve stem seal: cut a small piece of an old inner tube (people still have these sitting around, right?) down to about 1/2" x 1/2" (or a little smaller), use an awl or similar, poke a hole in the center, and shove the valve stem through it before installing in the rim. this has never not worked for me (although once i had to use 2 pieces of tube on a valve stem)

This is a good hack. I have also cut the valve stem out of an old inner tube, about 1/2" circle around the base of it, and used it as a tubeless valve stem. I've had some work well and others not as well, but it's a fun hack in a pinch. YMMV.

Save yourself the trouble of using subpar products for the application or good products in expensive packaging because bike industry and get this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tesa-Tape-4289-no-tubes-tubeless-rim-wheel-tape-25mm-x-60yds-mtb-cx-gravel-road-/323296150866

I'll have a look at this stuff, thanks!

FWIW stan's stopped making their rim strips a while back

Oh you don't say?

It is discontinued, so that says something.

 

[HAB]

Stan's tape and the WTB stuff are really similar. I think they work okay when the rim is super clean, but the adhesive isn't as strong as I'd like and if the rim isn't immaculate, or you just change tires a few times, they're prone to pulling up and making a mess.

The DT stuff is really expensive, but it's better.

Orange Seal's stuff is useless, way too thin and fragile.

 

[rideit]

I am two out of three total failure with the DT stuff. All on brand new carbon rims that had been cleaned with acetone. I am sure it was operator error, but I can’t see how. Works well for the guys at my LBS.

 

[Jm_]

I found the Bonty rim strips to be super nice when I had a wheel where tape just wasn't sticking to the rim, despite multiple attempts and multiple types.

For the fat wheels, I use tyvek tape, it's kind of a bitch to remove, timed it the other day, takes about an hour to get off if you have to go in there (was re-nippling the wheel) but otherwise, one pass of it is 2g, for these wide ones, 2 passes is 4g, that's pretty damn light for weight weenie-ism and it works good.

I plug this one every time I can, has totally changed my life with mounting tubeless:

 

[slimshady]

If you want light, cheap and easy, go on eBay and buy a roll of the right width of Kapton tape. I don't remember who recommended it here, but I can't thank him enough. Poke the valve hole with a hot nail, stick a small piece of inner tube between the valve stem and the rim tape as @jonKranked said, and enjoy the results. It's even easy to peel off once you decide to overhaul your wheels.

 

[Full Trucker]

I found the Bonty rim strips to be super nice when I had a wheel where tape just wasn't sticking to the rim, despite multiple attempts and multiple types.

For the fat wheels, I use tyvek tape, it's kind of a bitch to remove, timed it the other day, takes about an hour to get off if you have to go in there (was re-nippling the wheel) but otherwise, one pass of it is 2g, for these wide ones, 2 passes is 4g, that's pretty damn light for weight weenie-ism and it works good.

I plug this one every time I can, has totally changed my life with mounting tubeless:

Ooh... they have a second channel that's all Syd learning how to fix bikes. I saw this, watching it now. Assuming it has some value for this thread.

EDIT: I'm watching this now and it's a little painful. They're focusing on making sure the edges of the tape is stuck to the rim first, rather than the center channel. They do address this in the comments by saying:

One thing we felt wasn't clear in the video: you want to press the tape down into the center of the rim so that it isn't "floating" above the rim channel.

I dunno, I always push the center of the rim tape down as I'm first applying it, and then go back and push the sides down.

EDIT #2: Actually ugh, no. This video is not good. Bad even. Leaving it up, but more as a "don't do it this way" example. Always pull rim tape tight, pressing down in the center channel, as it's first installed. Overlap at the valve hole. Press the edges down after. The tip to use a rag to do the final pressing down is valid... in so much as I do that too.

I did look through the comments for some other ideas on types of tape to use, so here's a few more to check out:

• Sun Ringle STR Tubeless tape
• Scotch® Strapping Tape 8898
• Scotch® Strapping Tape 8896 <--this look awful in my opinion, it has the fiberglass strands in it
• Muc-off Filth Tubeless Rim Tape

And speaking of Muc-Off, they have a couple videos on installation that seem way better than the above. They do say to start opposite the valve hole, though, which baffles me but whatever.

 

[Full Trucker]

Stan's tape and the WTB stuff are really similar. I think they work okay when the rim is super clean, but the adhesive isn't as strong as I'd like and if the rim isn't immaculate, or you just change tires a few times, they're prone to pulling up and making a mess.

The DT stuff is really expensive, but it's better.

Orange Seal's stuff is useless, way too thin and fragile.

Agreed that the adhesive of Stan's yellow and WTB isn't that sticky, and that sealant can get under it and make it come up. Cleaning rim and hands/fingers really well and using a bit of alcohol as a final cleaning step has really helped with this for me, if the rim isn't brand new. And it should go without saying, but I always ALWAYS only touch the sticky side of the rim tape at the very start or very end... and I snip the tape off in such a manner so that any sticky part I've touched isn't left to stick on the rim. Finger oil on that adhesive is ¡no bueno!

 

[StiHacka]

If you want light, cheap and easy, go on eBay and buy a roll of the right width of Kapton tape. I don't remember who recommended it here, but I can't thank him enough. Poke the valve hole with a hot nail, stick a small piece of inner tube between the valve stem and the rim tape as @jonKranked said, and enjoy the results. It's even easy to peel off once you decide to overhaul your wheels.

I think it was me as I was a big fan, too. Make sure the tape does not get too old and brittle, I think some of the sealants will make it degrade faster. The Tesa tape I posted above is more durable IMO even if the Kapton tape is nicer to work with.

 

[slimshady]

I think some of the sealants will make it degrade faster

I bitched for three days last week because of the new sealant I bought was incompatible with my beloved Kapton tape. That crap crawled below the tape and fucked up its glue. I felt lazy and went with an unknown sealant brand instead of preparing a new batch of my homemade blend.

 

[StiHacka]

I bitched for three days last week because of the new sealant I bought was incompatible with my beloved Kapton tape. That crap crawled below the tape and fucked up its glue. I felt lazy and went with an unknown sealant brand instead of preparing a new batch of my homemade blend.

 

[4xBoy]

Problem solvers has a fancy nut that works a lot better than a regular knurled one from a tube.

 

[4xBoy]

Also nothing seems to stick to carbon rims as good as gorilla tape.

 

[canadmos]

Giant branded rim tape seems to be similar to kapton tape.

If you're @Sandwich maybe just use some electrical tape.

 

[Sandwich]

somebody say electrical tape?

re-wrapped my rims in kapton tape. easy peasy.

 

[Jm_]

Problem solvers has a fancy nut that works a lot better than a regular knurled one from a tube.

Most decent valves do now, like anything other than the WTB/stans ones.

I'm always looking for better valves. The best so far are the orange seal, they come with a whole bunch of extra nuts, o-rings, rubber grommets for narrow and wide rims, etc. Most importantly they work. The Muck-off is just "ok", I find they don't play well with many mini-pumps, I can't get a secure connection and the screw-type inevitably unscrew the core. One real bad one was Milkit, german or swiss, don't remember, but has an additional valve at the bottom and when you are screwing it shut, it "seems" closed, but a lot of resistance from the 2nd valve fools you and then trying to get sealant in is impossible without an injector, the 2nd valve is just a b*tch. So again, always looking for better valves that flow more air, play nicely with pumps, don't gunk up bad, etc.

One trick I use, similar to the inner tube trick above, I spread some latex over the valve grommet before putting the valve in the rim and setting up the tire. That seems to help seal around the valve a lot better and transfer more air towards setting the tire.

Another fine point of tubeless I'm learning (the hard way) over the last year: If you can't set it with a HV floor pump, a charger-style floor pump doesn't do shit, it just leaks out. The charger pumps can't deliver enough air fast enough over a HV floor pump IME and I haven't used the thing in months...hell, I should sell it. Going back to that technique I posted above, the only issues I've had are when the spoke holes are not right down the middle and the tape has sunken into it. In that case, set one side with a tube and worst case, I have to stick my pinky in one of those holes as I'm pumping to plug the leaking air (only in the most extreme case), but the charger pump doesn't help one bit, it doesn't move enough air. It's about having the tire sitting so that adding air builds up pressure faster than it's leaking out. Those charger air pump manufacturers should be punched in the face for not having some kind of adapter that screws into the valve WITHOUT the core.

 

[6thElement]

Tape it up.
Inflate with a tube to squish the tape into place.
Break the bead one side and remove the tube.
Put in tubeless valve.
Put the bead back on.
Hope it seals with track pump, if not break out the Milkit inflator bottle thing I bought.

 

[StiHacka]

Tape it up.
Inflate with a tube to squish the tape into place.
Break the bead one side and remove the tube.
Put in tubeless valve.
Put the bead back on.
Hope it seals with track pump, if not break out the Milkit inflator bottle thing I bought.

This is my "last resort" process as well, but I also try to seat the bead with a tire lever for even moar success.
The hardest to mount tire was for my friend's bike - a 29" SG Magic Mary on a narrow rim.

 

[6thElement]

This is my "last resort" process as well, but I also try to seat the bead with a tire lever for even moar success.
The hardest to mount tire was for my friend's bike - a 29" SG Magic Mary on a narrow rim.

Yeah, I'll try to pull the bead into the rim on the half closest to the valve if I've got a difficult tyre.

 

[englertracing]

Good and strong but the adhesive stays on the rim when you remove it.
I cut it for my rims and i use a narrow wrap over the spoke holes and a full width piece on top of that

This works ok...
Doesn't stick as well but leaves no residue.

 

[HAB]

I tried the clear gorilla tape once, it was too stretchy and got extruded through the spoke holes.

 

[rideit]

^^^^^same experience here. And the residue was terrible.

 

[StiHacka]

On a related topic, I fixed my buddy's abused rear wheel a few weeks ago, about a dozen spokes needed replacement. It was on a Trek bike and the rim was factory taped with some cheap bontrager tape. Cleaning the glue residue off the rim took me longer than relacing the wheel. What an effing nigtmare, worse than the dreaded Gorilla tape. Stay away.

 

[englertracing]

I tried the clear gorilla tape once, it was too stretchy and got extruded through the spoke holes.

^^^^^same experience here. And the residue was terrible.

This is why one narrow wrap, then second wide wrap.

 

[amishmatt]

I've switched over to using Whisky brand tape exclusively. It's way stickier than Stans, as well as being nice and stretchy, so it really conforms to the rim bed. Pulls off cleanly as well. I use tape that's 2mm wider than my rim internal width, and it ends up just the right width after it stretches as you pull it tight.

Prep the rim with alcohol, overlap the ends by one spoke hole, poke the hole for the valve with a sharpened spoke, seat tire with a HV floor pump.

*edit: also a big fan of e13 valve stems (the only e13 product I'll buy). They use a 4mm hex to tighten the stem from the inside, so you don't have to rely on the nut on the outside and your finger strength to loosen it in the event of a flat on the trail.

 

[ebarker9]

Agree with the Whiskey tape recommendation. One of the better local mechanics now swears by it, so I decided to give it a try as well and it's definitely the best I've used.

 

[Andeh]

Orange Seal tape is garbage, as others have said. Too thin / brittle so it tears easy, and it doesn't stretch well. I don't find the blue 3M tape to stretch well, and it's near impossible to find 32mm width.

I really like the DT tape because it ticks all the boxes except price: available in lots of width increments, stretchy, sticky without residue, and durable. It seems to last about 4-5 tire changes for me before the end starts to lose adhesion from Orange Seal.

I've found that proper width paired with stretch to be critical to getting a good wrap without bubbles and folds, while resisting pealing from tire beads. The DT recommendation of internal width +2mm is spot on for my WAO rims. I line up on one side, push into the center channel, then work down the center channel a few inches before backtracking to get the sides.

 

[Lemke]

I use the Scotch 3M 8898 tape... which is the same stuff Stan's sells, just blue in color. You can get it for about 6 bucks for 100' roll on Ebay. I've tried the Kapton tape (Spank recommends it for their wheels), but I've never had good luck with it, not as sticky as the 3M stuff. I've used the Gorilla clear once... never again. Good luck getting the residue off when it's time to re-tape. I may have to try the Whiskey brand stuff.

 

[rideit]

I've used the Gorilla clear once... never again. Good luck getting the residue off when it's time to re-tape.

Hi, Lemke, my name is rideit! Have you read my newsletter?

OK, Armchair Chemists...Gorilla Tape Residue.

Whatchya got? (Title should say TAPE and not glue) I have a very stubborn case on my carbon rims. i have tried Goo Gone Goof Off Isopropyl Alcohol Acetone Brake Cleaner Parts Cleaner Citric Acid Paint Stripper gasoline white gas Nothing even remotely touches it. just ordered some Methylene...

ridemonkey.bikemag.com

 

[jstuhlman]

wait, did you use gorilla clear @rideit ? is the clear made of different shit than the normal black gorilla tape? the black's the stuff i've never had an issue with. never tried the clear.

 

[rideit]

No, I tried that once a long time ago. I should have learned my lesson.

 

[Lemke]

Hi, Lemke, my name is rideit! Have you read my newsletter?

OK, Armchair Chemists...Gorilla Tape Residue.

Whatchya got? (Title should say TAPE and not glue) I have a very stubborn case on my carbon rims. i have tried Goo Gone Goof Off Isopropyl Alcohol Acetone Brake Cleaner Parts Cleaner Citric Acid Paint Stripper gasoline white gas Nothing even remotely touches it. just ordered some Methylene...

ridemonkey.bikemag.com

Reading it now... sounds like a stroll down memory lane. LOL.

 

[HardtailHack]

Could someone please make some preformed heatshrink loops in a few diameters and widths?
It would only have to 20% shrink like the stuff they use for wrapping composites. A bit of spray adhesive would hold it in place well enough.

Actually just a latex band with some spray glue would probably do it, I hate putting rim tape on.

 

[Cerberus75]

Could someone please make some preformed heatshrink loops in a few diameters and widths?
It would only have to 20% shrink like the stuff they use for wrapping composites. A bit of spray adhesive would hold it in place well enough.

Actually just a latex band with some spray glue would probably do it, I hate putting rim tape on.

I was just thinking heat shrink wrap would be a great idea for rim tape the other day.