If a pedal is that strong, its too strong, or your cranks are really weak (can't tell which those are). You want the pedal spindle to bend before the crank. Pedal axles are a LOT cheaper than a good crank arm thats for sure. FYI Straitlines do this perfectly. They are amazing pedals, just not quite as thin as I'd like. Which is why I'm trying out the canfields recently. So far they are pretty amazing. The thin-ness really does make a big difference. No word yet on long term durability.When a pedal can do this without breaking, I think it's pretty strong. It's also very light. I'd go with Twenty6.
Well someone has to toot your horn.+1 for the Podium pedals. Only because I use them and I'm super freaking awesome
those podium pedals sure do look pimp!!+1 for the Podium pedals. Only because I use them and I'm super freaking awesome
Proper pedal behavior:If a pedal is that strong, its too strong, or your cranks are really weak (can't tell which those are). You want the pedal spindle to bend before the crank. Pedal axles are a LOT cheaper than a good crank arm thats for sure.
My one gripe with my previous pedals, Point1's and a few other designs are the lack of pins in the middle of the pedal near the spindle. The way I have my feet positioned on the pedal the majority of my weight is on the middle of the pedal centered over the spindle. Lately I feel like my feet are getting kicked off the pedals through rough sections, not sure if moar pins in the middle would help or not. Might switch back to clipless+1 for the Podium pedals. Only because I use them and I'm super freaking awesome
WARNING - DEAD HORSE: Why do you clip in to clipless pedals? There's a clip/cleat, there's clipping, so how are they clipless?
Maybe dremmel. Still a bit tedious imo.^^ Not trying to be negative about what is obviously a very elegant and nicely-machined piece there - - But . . .
What happens when all the threads on those thru-bolts get the crap bashed out of them/flattened/warped/bent and then you have to back them out through the pedal body to replace them? Seems to me you'll be tearing out a lot of threads or tediously hacksawing them off flush and dressing them down with a file just to pull them.
what's the logic behind that pin configuration? I personally prefer longer pins on the outer edge of the pedal.On my Point 1's, I went long pins on the inside and short on the outside. REALLY happy with this configuration.
I had a set of those and bent them on the second ride. So long ago I don't even remember how. Do you know if one can get replacement axles? I still have them...they are like new.what's the logic behind that pin configuration? I personally prefer longer pins on the outer edge of the pedal.
with that said - I've tried a crap load of flat pedals (anyone that has seen my collection at home can attest to this). from thick ones, to narrow ones, flat, expensive (yeah I own some Rallye and prerunner pedals)....
but the pedals I keep coming back to are Tioga MX pedals. Relatively cheap, concave, wide, not too thick, free spinning, bang the living sh|t out of them, destroy, throw away, replace, lather, rinse, repeat.
I've bent quite a few of them. if they are not bent too bad, I'll keep riding them until it really starts bugging me.I had a set of those and bent them on the second ride. So long ago I don't even remember how. Do you know if one can get replacement axles? I still have them...they are like new.
Catalog HT pedals. Can be bought cheaper than Nuke.Nukeproof Neutrons with Ti axles are stellar,been abusing them for two seasons long and still going strong no matter what the beating is.I havn't noticed any play after two seasons of riding
The cranks were gravity lights from that picture. And I'd say the Titanium axles on those pedals cost about the same as the cranks. I'd call it as the crank arm being just too weak.If a pedal is that strong, its too strong, or your cranks are really weak (can't tell which those are). You want the pedal spindle to bend before the crank. Pedal axles are a LOT cheaper than a good crank arm thats for sure.
Are you running the new longer PO1NT pins?Pin config is detrimental. 5 pins a side, 2 front, 2 back, one on the outside. Nothing in the middle! Running extra pins just seems to lift the sole away from the pedal overall and then none of the pins get a proper bite. Centre pins only act as a pivot point too. 5.10's should be the only shoe to grace your pedals when all is set.
It's not a good thing for pedalling, of course. But it does aid in stability when plowing.Call me crazy but I really wouldn't want my pedals to be "stiff" when trying to spin. That just means there is more resistance when pedaling, were the bearings gunked up or too tight? I'm considering both pedals so I'm genuinely curious.
actually the Cramptons are heavier last i checkedI own the canfield crampons, and have ridden the point 1's alot on my brothers bike. The crampons are lighter, thinner and provide much better grip. I like the point 1's better then a more traditional pedal but they dont even compare to the crampons.
Burgtec Penthouse Flats. Dope pedals.No one mentioning those expensive pedals? forgot name....
something-tec
Pic to go with this. Still spinning smoothly, A full race season on all his bikes.Crampons!!! Ropelato beat the living hell outa his and still going strong, Mine have countless rock strikes and still holding in there with my weight and mashing stuff once in a while...
Best pedal to date and yes I have ridden the point 1, If crampons werent around then point ones but between the 2 crampons!!!