what are the thinest strongest flat pedals out now days??
- Thread starter alfonz
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Another vote for the Point 1 Podium pedals. SUPER light / SUPER strong. Worth every penny.
Check them out here!
Check them out here!
When a pedal can do this without breaking, I think it's pretty strong. It's also very light. I'd go with Twenty6.
If a pedal is that strong, its too strong, or your cranks are really weak (can't tell which those are). You want the pedal spindle to bend before the crank. Pedal axles are a LOT cheaper than a good crank arm thats for sure. FYI Straitlines do this perfectly. They are amazing pedals, just not quite as thin as I'd like. Which is why I'm trying out the canfields recently. So far they are pretty amazing. The thin-ness really does make a big difference. No word yet on long term durability.When a pedal can do this without breaking, I think it's pretty strong. It's also very light. I'd go with Twenty6.
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Well someone has to toot your horn.
I like the crampons, haven't tried the point ones, I need to quit buying parts just to test them someday.
those podium pedals sure do look pimp!!+1 for the Podium pedals. Only because I use them and I'm super freaking awesome
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My one gripe with my previous pedals, Point1's and a few other designs are the lack of pins in the middle of the pedal near the spindle. The way I have my feet positioned on the pedal the majority of my weight is on the middle of the pedal centered over the spindle. Lately I feel like my feet are getting kicked off the pedals through rough sections, not sure if moar pins in the middle would help or not. Might switch back to clipless
Ive been using Straitlines and they are amazing -- astounding the beating they have taken, and they're still fine!
I would like to try the canfields, but am so 'scared' Ill mash them to crap - looks like I may be overly concerned - but Im still wary.
Never rode clips for DH, do for trail/xc; Mashed my ankle good this year and kept riding on it, but losing my pedal lots - maybe its clipless time.
WARNING - DEAD HORSE: Why do you clip in to clipless pedals? There's a clip/cleat, there's clipping, so how are they clipless?
I would like to try the canfields, but am so 'scared' Ill mash them to crap - looks like I may be overly concerned - but Im still wary.
Never rode clips for DH, do for trail/xc; Mashed my ankle good this year and kept riding on it, but losing my pedal lots - maybe its clipless time.
WARNING - DEAD HORSE: Why do you clip in to clipless pedals? There's a clip/cleat, there's clipping, so how are they clipless?
Answer FR pedals Rock! Not the thinest but, low profile super tough and great bearings!
big thumbs up on the nukeproofs from me. Hammered them this season and once ive replaced the pins theyll be all good for next year. Im very impressed with them have loads of battle scars but still run perfectly. There light and have good bearings and a nice platform. Probably not the slimmest but there not exactly chunky
On my Point 1's, I went long pins on the inside and short on the outside. REALLY happy with this configuration.
^^ Not trying to be negative about what is obviously a very elegant and nicely-machined piece there - - But . . .
What happens when all the threads on those thru-bolts get the crap bashed out of them/flattened/warped/bent and then you have to back them out through the pedal body to replace them? Seems to me you'll be tearing out a lot of threads or tediously hacksawing them off flush and dressing them down with a file just to pull them.
What happens when all the threads on those thru-bolts get the crap bashed out of them/flattened/warped/bent and then you have to back them out through the pedal body to replace them? Seems to me you'll be tearing out a lot of threads or tediously hacksawing them off flush and dressing them down with a file just to pull them.
WARNING - DEAD HORSE: Why do you clip in to clipless pedals? There's a clip/cleat, there's clipping, so how are they clipless?
Because you don't need a toe clip.
And what is a "clip/cleat"? It's just a cleat.
Maybe dremmel. Still a bit tedious imo.
what's the logic behind that pin configuration? I personally prefer longer pins on the outer edge of the pedal.
with that said - I've tried a crap load of flat pedals (anyone that has seen my collection at home can attest to this). from thick ones, to narrow ones, flat, expensive (yeah I own some Rallye and prerunner pedals)....
but the pedals I keep coming back to are Tioga MX pedals. Relatively cheap, concave, wide, not too thick, free spinning, bang the living sh|t out of them, destroy, throw away, replace, lather, rinse, repeat.
^^ Had to hammer the pins until they were straight. Only then could I pull them out. Pain in the b*tt. Replaced all the pins with set screws.
Yeah Nuke Proofs with Ti axle are rad, not sure what model I have(the longer axle one).
Nuke proofs offer the same design as Straitline, Kowa, Tioga, Kona, and what seems like about 8 other brands, all slightly different, machining and pins, but out of the same mold, with same bearings. The Nuke Proofs I have(longer axle), are also offered by a few companies it seems, Nuke Proof now do a Ti+Mag one, not the answer to this threads question obviously, but cool non the less.
They're HTT pedals yeah?
I'm on the Kowas now, but will get back on PO1NTs, now the long pin kits available. Havew the Nuke Proofs on my trail bike.
Nuke proofs offer the same design as Straitline, Kowa, Tioga, Kona, and what seems like about 8 other brands, all slightly different, machining and pins, but out of the same mold, with same bearings. The Nuke Proofs I have(longer axle), are also offered by a few companies it seems, Nuke Proof now do a Ti+Mag one, not the answer to this threads question obviously, but cool non the less.
They're HTT pedals yeah?
I'm on the Kowas now, but will get back on PO1NTs, now the long pin kits available. Havew the Nuke Proofs on my trail bike.
I had a set of those and bent them on the second ride. So long ago I don't even remember how. Do you know if one can get replacement axles? I still have them...they are like new.what's the logic behind that pin configuration? I personally prefer longer pins on the outer edge of the pedal.
with that said - I've tried a crap load of flat pedals (anyone that has seen my collection at home can attest to this). from thick ones, to narrow ones, flat, expensive (yeah I own some Rallye and prerunner pedals)....
but the pedals I keep coming back to are Tioga MX pedals. Relatively cheap, concave, wide, not too thick, free spinning, bang the living sh|t out of them, destroy, throw away, replace, lather, rinse, repeat.
I've bent quite a few of them. if they are not bent too bad, I'll keep riding them until it really starts bugging me.
no I don't think you can buy replacement axles. did you just bend one axle or both? I have some that are pretty trashed (but just the body I think). I could send you the axles (if I still have the pedals)
Catalog HT pedals. Can be bought cheaper than Nuke.
No skid marks - you meant sunline? Because straitline sure as hell are not catalog.
The cranks were gravity lights from that picture. And I'd say the Titanium axles on those pedals cost about the same as the cranks. I'd call it as the crank arm being just too weak.
Now, as someone owning both a set of Twenty6 Prerunner Ti's and a set of Point1 Racing Podium's I'd say I have somewhat of an idea of what a good pedal is an what's not. Or I could just have a fetish......... Probably both..
I'm not going to bother factoring in any other pedals, as there is a reason I only have these sets of pedals now, they're both the best of. Simple as.
The Twenty6 is lighter, mine are currently sitting at 260g flat (weighed when I upgraded the pins to the new design). And also grippier using these pins. They're rather stiff to spin, but if you're not pedalling that's a good thing, as it in a way dampens any kick that's transferred and often throws your foot off with other pedals. They're also a good size platform, with a good shape and with a comfortable 2mm concave (unlike DMR!!!!). They can take some serious pain, and the pins and pedal body all aid in deflecting impacts of all sorts amazingly. Nothing will stop your pedal or crankarm taking damage hitting a tree or something similar. But in normal riding hits they're above the rest with deflection.
The Point1's are my favorite at the moment. Just as much resistance in the spin, and although less grip, they are much thinner and therefore noticeably more stable. They give a whole new meaning to feeling planted when riding your bike fast. No pedal kick in the rough stuff, no roll when pedalling out and they've such a huge platform you can shake around on them and get your feet in all sorts of awkward positions, but it's not going to stop you riding flat out. You don't notice it so much when you're on them and just plowing, but when you think about it after or try the same thing on a fatter set of pedals, the difference is in your face. And you realise you can't live without it.
I've had 2 sets of Straitline's and they don't compare. Weight, thickness and bushings just don't do it for me. I've had blackspire sub 4's, wellgo MG1's, DMR's as well. Rode Burgtec's and Azonic 420's. They're all way behind.
Pin config is detrimental. 5 pins a side, 2 front, 2 back, one on the outside. Nothing in the middle! Running extra pins just seems to lift the sole away from the pedal overall and then none of the pins get a proper bite. Centre pins only act as a pivot point too. 5.10's should be the only shoe to grace your pedals when all is set.
Haters hate, but the kona wah wah pedals are pretty amazing. For the price you cant beat em
Are you running the new longer PO1NT pins?
I don't agree with less pins. I'd prefer to file down the ones you're missing a bit if that's your theory. The BMW pedals with lots of small points(no pins), actually had a lot of grip, by having lots of friction. But pedal shape might have aided this.
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Call me crazy but I really wouldn't want my pedals to be "stiff" when trying to spin. That just means there is more resistance when pedaling, were the bearings gunked up or too tight? I'm considering both pedals so I'm genuinely curious.
Deity Decoy V2s, I have run the first versions for years and the V2s all last season. Tried Point 1 Podiums but as said lack of center pins and found my feet got popped off pretty easily. Plus the people at Point 1 are impossible to get a hold of, several phone calls, messages no answers.
I need a new axle
With the Decoys they stick really well, customer service is awesome and they hold up great to pedal strikes. The Podiums hold up ok and the Twenty6 Prerunners usually break pretty easily I have seen many mangled on dh bikes. I use them on my street and trail bikes only,
I need a new axle With the Decoys they stick really well, customer service is awesome and they hold up great to pedal strikes. The Podiums hold up ok and the Twenty6 Prerunners usually break pretty easily I have seen many mangled on dh bikes. I use them on my street and trail bikes only,It's not a good thing for pedalling, of course. But it does aid in stability when plowing.
The Twenty6 are always stiffer than most, even when the bushings wear they're tapered so they'll resist. This could be changed I guess by regular maintenance and switching grease for oil (suspension maybe?!)
The Point1 have a break in time, which they state but do not list how long. As they run on sealed bearings I guess they'd spin better, but once mine start loosening off the suer thick grease will come out to play. Or I'll have to add extra seals
But seriously, this is downhill. You can't pedal enough for the resistance to matter, surely?!! Otherwise you're running super heavy poor rolling tires for no reason.
No Skid Marks, I'd say I'm on old Point1 pins, they're m4x8mm with a imperial (bleugh) allen head. It aids in clearance using these pins.
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Canfield FTW, straitline arent thing, and maybe not light, but i am amazed they are still alive. If you dont mind the "thickness" you cant beat them
I own the canfield crampons, and have ridden the point 1's alot on my brothers bike. The crampons are lighter, thinner and provide much better grip. I like the point 1's better then a more traditional pedal but they dont even compare to the crampons.
actually the Cramptons are heavier last i checked
No one mentioning those expensive pedals? forgot name....
something-tec
something-tec
Burgtec Penthouse Flats. Dope pedals.
Crampons!!! Ropelato beat the living hell outa his and still going strong, Mine have countless rock strikes and still holding in there with my weight and mashing stuff once in a while...
Best pedal to date and yes I have ridden the point 1, If crampons werent around then point ones but between the 2 crampons!!!
Added from canfield post below to put larger pic in... Ropelatos pedal...Beat the hell outa it...
Best pedal to date and yes I have ridden the point 1, If crampons werent around then point ones but between the 2 crampons!!!
Added from canfield post below to put larger pic in... Ropelatos pedal...Beat the hell outa it...
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I bought some 26's but tore my ACL so I cant use them. They sure do look pretty though
Pic to go with this. Still spinning smoothly, A full race season on all his bikes.
