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Toshi's thread

Discussion in 'Northeast' started by Toshi, Apr 20, 2002.

  1. Toshi

    Toshi Harbinger of Doom

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    1) 40 x 14t is kind of annoying to be in all the time. There's a woman with a custom road frame with a single speed belt drive setup who works on the same campus as me (maybe at Children's Hospital? not sure), and she seemed to have a much shorter gear than I'd expect and just made up with it in cadence.

    90 rpm works out to 21.3 mph for 40 x 14t, 19.9 mph for 15t, 18.6 mph for 16t, 17.6 mph for 17t. I should probably go with a 40 x 15t equivalent, or maybe splitting the difference between 15 and 16t if that's possible with the belt. Edit: 40/16 is 2.5, and I could get 2.5 with 55/22, 118 tooth belt, 433 mm chainstay.

    2) Also related to this belt drive business is that my current 1x10 drivetrain is driving me nuts. I have a clicking type noise with every crank rotation. Same place in the rotation. Doesn't occur with no chain so not the BB, crank-BB interface, or pedals. As far as I can tell I have simply worn down my Race Face narrow-wide ring. I bought it 11 months ago and have about 1200 miles on the commuter since then per Strava, so perhaps that's its lifespan in these conditions.
     
    #6921 -   Oct 4, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2017

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  2. Westy

    Westy the teste

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    Chainless doesn't mean that it still isn't your BB. Pedaling with a chain the BB has to react to offset forces from your weight left to right in addition to chain tension. That force vector changes directions as you pedal and the creak can be caused by that, Chainless the BB reacts only to your weight and for the most part laterally balanced.
     
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  3. Toshi

    Toshi Harbinger of Doom

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    Good point. I guess I'll find out if this is the case when I reuse the Alfine crankset + BB on the new frame. :D
     
  4. Toshi

    Toshi Harbinger of Doom

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    Just did it: Pulled the trigger and ordered the following:



    Soma Wolverine frame, 50 cm, black since that orange was pretty obnoxious
    Soma Wolverine thru-axle fork, black
    Gates CDX 55/22t belt drive setup with red 118t belt and a Surly spacer kit for my freehub
    Chris King headset, silver
    Thomson seatpost, seat collar, and stem, silver
    Salsa Cowbell 2 handlebars, 44 cm width, and some bar tape in case I can't reuse the tape from my commuter's swept bars
    Planet Bike aluminum fenders, silver/unfinished

    I haz excite.

    As one might infer from this incomplete parts list I'm going to repurpose the following parts from my current commuter bike: wheelset (DT Swiss 350/XR 331), tires (47 mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus), seat, rack, crankset (Alfine single ring/sprocket), lights, and possibly brake calipers. Those brake calipers are XT, which are compatible in theory with Shimano RS685 levers, so I'm trying to hunt down a cheap set of levers alone on eBay. They'll have STI shifters associated with them that will go unused.

    (For those of you looking to purchase bike parts note that Universal Cycles has a 15% off $300 or greater deal through Oct 8. I price matched the frame through Universal's easy to use system since it was exempt from the 15% off coupon, but for all other items the generic 15% coupon was greater than price matching other sites. Be careful and don't pricematch above the 15% off price!)
     
    #6924 -   Oct 4, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2017
  5. 6thElement

    6thElement Turbo Monkey

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    Universal always has 15% off over $300, it always used to be VIP15 but they've started changing it monthly.

    They're my go to online store.
     
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  6. Toshi

    Toshi Harbinger of Doom

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    I favor them, too. This is especially true since the main credit card I use, a Chase Freedom, lets one price match to online ads 0-90 days after purchase. This way I can order everything from Universal to get it at one time in one box and then pricematch to random, sketchy Niagra Cycle Works via Amazon non-Prime prices and the like. (Or even sketchier outfits that I find through Google Shopping that I'd never actually entrust with my cc #.)

    Bonus unethical bit is that Universal's receipt format is such that their 15% off and pricematch coupons are taken off as a line item at the bottom of the receipt, as opposed to associated with each item. Therefore I can pricematch to the pre-discount price. I figure this is ok morally because the price matching 3rd party outfit used, Eclaimsline, has cock-blocked me on a few requests that should have been granted, for bike and RC car parts that they thought were (rightfully excluded) automobile parts.
     
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  7. Toshi

    Toshi Harbinger of Doom

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    The XL Outdoor Research skiing outfit I ordered has proven unfortunately to be no match for my fatness. Rough measurements from a not very flexible tape measure, for future sizing consideration:

    53" at shoulders
    47" chest
    43" waist
    46" hips

    At least I'm not shaped like a pear, I suppose. Instead I'm shaped like a tree trunk that's slightly broader at the top.

     
    #6927 -   Oct 5, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2017
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  8. Toshi

    Toshi Harbinger of Doom

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    From perusing Outdoor Research's size chart XXL should be much more my style. The pretty blue XL kit will go back to REI.

    I went with an uninsulated shell and uninsulated pants for the XXL redo as opposed to the shell-with-Polartec-Alpha-insulation setup I squeezed myself into today, with the idea that a breathable waterproof shell might come in handy on my bike commute. Unfortunately, for the Skyward series that fits this bill XXL limits one to just black as the color choice. Not ideal for riding home at night, but I have reflective patches on my panniers, a rear reflector/light combo on my rack, reflectors on my pedals and tire beads, plus 3000 lumens of light pointed forward.

    Related: 10/5-10/9 25% off sale at Outdoor Research's site. :notbadobama:



    Edit: Outdoor Research Alpenice XL was too snug. Outdoor Research Skyward XXL is far too loose, on the other hand. Why must sizing be so inconsistent?! I'm going to try on things in person at REI, probably getting a lightweight and colorful shell primarily for biking, and dedicated ski pants ideally also not black.
     
    #6928 -   Oct 6, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2017
  9. Toshi

    Toshi Harbinger of Doom

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    So after I build up this Soma Wolverine I'll be left with some extra parts. Unlike Nick, I don't plan on hoarding them in my garage. What should I do with them? Are there any bike-related charities locally that would use such a random collection (not a whole bike)?

    What'll be left over:

    - Jamis Durango 29er frameset, complete with crappy fork, headset, seat collar, seat post
    - M785 XT brake levers and one sloppy old M785 10 speed rear i-Spec shifter that likes to rock in its i-Spec mount
    - 1800? mile old Ultegra 12-25 10-speed cassette
    - 2500? mile old XT 10 speed clutch derailleur
    - 40t RaceFace narrow-wide ring that I presume is the source of the drivetrain's clicking noise
    - funky swept handlebar

    I guess I should keep the bar and the brake levers at least, in case drop bar life doesn't agree with me. Those parts are small. Still there'll be some random crap, namely that frameset. It's not worth eBaying, I don't want to pay to ship it anywhere, and due to Craigslist taking a fair bit of time and effort I'm almost tempted to take a hacksaw to it until it fits in my garbage dumpster. That exercise would be satisfying, too... :D
     
  10. Toshi

    Toshi Harbinger of Doom

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    Hunting down Shimano road disc brake levers on eBay has proved to be more difficult than I thought. Most all auctions are for levers + calipers and end up being pretty pricey indeed. Ones that should work are ST-RS405 (Tiagra level), ST-RS505 (105 level), ST-RS685 (Ultegra level), and ST-R785 (Ultegra Di2 level).


    Integrated STI shifters make for some expensive combo brake/shifters!

    I have an offer in for $150 + 15ish shipping for the 105 level levers. The seller should respond tomorrow. Worst case it seems that Nashbar, of all places, has the ST-RS505 new for $200 with free shipping. Oddly that's much cheaper than even the Tiagra level bits--not sure if listing in error, secretly for just one lever, or what.


    Dig the speed-holes. Also note lack of extraneous STI shifting bits--single speed setup.

    I'd go with an alternate product such as the TRP Hylex RS as above, but oddly only their flat-mount model can be found cheap. The post-mount model is $105 x 2 for a complete setup, and I'd trust the performance of a Shimano setup over TRP, let alone the scenario where Shimano is cheaper (because of my existing calipers and the Nashbar price weirdness).


    Edit: eBay seller counter-offer was $185 + shipping. Uh, no, not when the alternative is $200 with free shipping for a new set. I guess I'll find out upon arrival if the Nashbar listing was for one lever or two: it says "levers" and doesn't specify front or rear so I have my hopes still.

    Edit 2: Nashbar order placed... but the order status ominously has the product listed as "Item Not Currently Available". Looks like I'll be rocking the swept bars for a while yet until I get this sorted. Just as well as it'll let me sort out the rest of the bike without messing with the bars yet, although it'll probably make the 90 mm Thomson stem I ordered effectively too long...

    Edit 3: Chatted with Nashbar on Sunday. Dude said I snagged the last set in their stock, and that it should ship tomorrow or Tuesday. If that's true it'll get here around the same time as the rest of the parts.
     
    #6930 -   Oct 7, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2017
  11. Toshi

    Toshi Harbinger of Doom

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    Doctors Can’t Spend More Than Half Their Income <-- clicky clicky

    A good read for anyone in the 25% and up marginal rate world.

    There's some math and more explanation in there, but the key bit is this formula, which is not rocket science but bears repeating:

    Annual income during retirement can be derived by putting this formula into Excel or Google Sheets:

    =FV(5%,X,-Y) * 0.04

    where X is age of retirement minus when you started saving at your sustained rate, and Y (note the minus) is the current dollar amount per year that you put toward retirement. The 0.04 is for a 4% safe withdrawal rate per the Trinity Study. This assumes sustained real 5% gains. It also ignores inflation but similarly ignores income growth and higher future tax-deferred limits that should track that in theory.

    Play around with this formula a bit and you can see the effect of retiring at a given age, +5, +10, etc. or changing one's contributions.

    For my level of savings (high) combined with age at which I could start contributing in earnest (late) doing this exercise was very useful in that it suggests that me working until at least age 55 is probably in order. If I can expect $N/year if I retire at 50 I could get 1.49 * N at 55 or 2.12 * N if I hang on until 60.
     
  12. Toshi

    Toshi Harbinger of Doom

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    More messing around with this:

    Full time to 50 then out: 1.00 * N
    Full time to 55 then out: 1.49 * N
    Full time to 60 then out: 2.12 * N

    Full time to 50, half time to 55: 1.08 * N
    Full time to 50, half time to 60: 1.21 * N
    Full time to 55, half time to 60: 1.57 * N

    This assumes at half time I could save half as much as I do now. In reality I'll be able to save more, as student loans will be long gone, car notes gone unless I have recurrent new car fever, 529 contributions done, and the mortgage paid down or close to done by then. Oh, and significantly less taxes relative to gross income thanks to the magic of our progressive tax system and because I'll be able to do catch up/extra tax deferred contributions.

    When I near age 50 I'll definitely be hitting the books to see what works financially! Another consideration is that my oldest kid will be entering college right around then so minimizing income for financial aid purposes is another albeit secondary goal.
     
    #6932 -   Oct 7, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2017
  13. Toshi

    Toshi Harbinger of Doom

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    All the parts for the new belt drive commuter arrived yesterday. Instead of riding today I cleaned the garage and worked on bikes. I pulled the old commuter apart (and sold its frameset on the local swap page for $5--better than hacksawing it and putting it in the trash, I figure). In doing so I tried to pull the cassette off the rear wheel's freehub body so that I could play around with the spacer kit and belt drive cog and approximate a good "belt line", as it were. The cassette's lockring came off fine with a chainwhip. So did the first few free cogs.

    The main body of the cassette wouldn't budge, though, and this is why:



    I dropped various bits of the in-progress new build at the LBS, figuring that if I'm going to need their help anyway might as well have them do some other tasks for me that I could have done on my own but would rather avoid. I'm having them:

    - press in headset and headset race (instead of using my ghetto threaded rod + washers + giant nuts setup that I threw out today)
    - mount front brake on fork after obtaining the correct adapter from them (prior fork was post mount, current fork is IS)
    - mount stem after cutting fork's steerer tube to length
    - mount my fancy new road 105-level hydraulic levers on the bars (Nashbar having indeed sold and faithfully shipped a full right + left lever set for $200), hook up my XT calipers to 'em and bleed them, and do the bar tape up nice and pretty since I find bar tape a pain in the ass personally
    - pull the cassette and freehub self-welded assembly as per the above photo, and replace it with a steel freehub, installing a 54t star ratchet upgrade while they're in there anyway

    So it'll be a few days without a commuter bike for me as they source the adapter, freehub, and star ratchet upgrade kit and then perform the labor. Being without the bike this week is just as well, since I probably would have driven Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and possibly Wednesday anyway this week due to vagaries of site assignments and extra early morning this and that.
     
  14. Toshi

    Toshi Harbinger of Doom

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    This was on 9/2. It ended up arriving in Colorado Springs today, 10/18. September, October... close enough, I guess?

    Edit: Picking it up tomorrow, 10/21! Perfect timing: Uploaded the buyer's order to my credit union on 10/18. Called them 10/19, finalized the loan, and they FedExed the check that arrived today, 10/20. Tomorrow morning I hop on a bus down to Colorado Springs and hopefully don't have to deal with too much dealer bullshit.
     
    #6934 -   Oct 18, 2017 at 5:46 PM
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2017 at 1:31 AM
  15. Toshi

    Toshi Harbinger of Doom

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    Cross-posted from the daily thread:



    I rode it to/from work today. I like it. It turned out much as I had hoped. Sizing seems pretty good, which was a bit of a concern since I bought that Thomson without sizing out the frame first. The belt drive is as silent as I had hoped, and there's no clicking, so I guess the issue was somewhere in the chain and worn out narrow-wide ring rather than the cranks or BB. Most of the time the only noise the bike makes is a little "ting" when a rock gets tossed against the metal fenders.

    One quirk is that the first mile or so on the bike felt funny until I adjusted to the geometry and the feel of drop bars. I think this fork has a lot of trail? The front end didn't feel as lively at first as I'd have expected for cyclocross-ish geometry and I was waggling a bit with every pedal stroke.

    I did confirm that I can still bunnyhop up a curb easily. I'm not sure if I could bunnyhop a legit cyclocross barrier, especially in its fully dressed form, but being able to do curb height is important to me since there are two places on my usual route where that saves me from having to slow down, not that speed is everything when I'm on a single speed, after all...
     
  16. Toshi

    Toshi Harbinger of Doom

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    Picked up this before performing in a concert tonight. (Ordered 8/9 but didn’t arrive at the dealer until this past Wednesday.) Super busy last two weeks but everything seemed to work out ok.





    Thoughts:

    - drives like a big Prius, which is a positive thing coming from me
    - full speed adaptive cruise control is amazing. I don’t think I’ll ever get another car without it
    - Uconnect is customizable such that I have most things (e.g. seat heaters) accessible with one click from the bottom row
    - the paint actually looks really nice in different light
    - although it has a (not super useful) surround view camera it is a pain to park in the garage due to its size, so we will pull it in forward and just scoot the RAV4 EV as far over as possible to give it room
    - getting it in service at the end of this tax year will be nice: $12.5k in tax credits shall be coming my way!


    Between this and the commuter bike I’m getting pretty good at enacting my often hare-brained plans...
     
    #6936 -   Oct 22, 2017 at 1:22 AM
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2017 at 1:25 AM
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  17. Toshi

    Toshi Harbinger of Doom

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    I just sold the Land Cruiser. Easiest transaction ever: sold it to my former two doors down neighbor. He found out I was selling after I went mountain biking with my former one door down neighbors. We emailed, I suggested a price, he agreed it was fair, then when I was ready to sell he Ubered over, drove it, signed the title and bill of sale, and wrote me a check.

    On my part, I was absolutely honest in my disclosures about the vehicle, and I had ample service records. Plus he already knew it was in great condition from having seen it in the flesh back when we lived nearby.