The foot nut? Have someone push down hard on the handlebars when you loosen the foot nut. This creates enough bite between the lowers and the end of the damper rod so it doesn't spin.
2010 Marzocchi 888 Evo tuning thread
- Thread starter Kanye West
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- ideally ideal
or use a air/rattle gun.
That doesn't always work. Sometimes it will still spin. I finally broke down a few years ago and got an impact wrench. Such a nice tool to have.
Guess I might have to borrow my bosses cordless impact driver?
Or, I'll just ignore the leak. I had a 79 Honda CVCC that I just dumped a quart of oil in every couple weeks and it went forever. LOL.
Or, I'll just ignore the leak. I had a 79 Honda CVCC that I just dumped a quart of oil in every couple weeks and it went forever. LOL.
wanna save some weight?
chunked 888 crown with ti bolts vs. stock 888 crown/stem with ti bolts, saves 107g and you can set your bars really low if you want to
chunked 888 crown with ti bolts vs. stock 888 crown/stem with ti bolts, saves 107g and you can set your bars really low if you want to
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Looks great!wanna save some weight?
chunked 888 crown with ti bolts vs. stock 888 crown/stem with ti bolts, saves 107g and you can set your bars really low if you want to
Wouldn't you be better off going up in spring rate? Or are you already on the harder spring.
I weigh about 87kg (191lbs) and I am considering going to the harder spring after trying to tune the fork with the normal controls and still being able to bottom out on bigger hits. So wouldn't changing the shim setup only be slightly different to what I am doing?
Got a stock and x-firm spring as rec'd by Marz tech. X-firm sags 25% and feels as plush as an elastomer fork on a cold day. Took 4 months to get the x-firm spring, not going to bother ordering the firm spring and wait all summer again. Was hoping to go back to stock and re-shim to keep from blasting through the travel. Tried many settings with stock adjustments, either too soft or too harsh.
Im 244 at the moment, stock valving, X-Firm spring, no problem sagging/using travel.
Def want to tweak it, but its pretty damn sweet stock for me.
Your fork SHOULD bottom on occasion, If I do 10+ runs anywhere and dont bottom the fork at least once, I'd go to a softer spring.
Def want to tweak it, but its pretty damn sweet stock for me.
Your fork SHOULD bottom on occasion, If I do 10+ runs anywhere and dont bottom the fork at least once, I'd go to a softer spring.
im 220lbs and using the stock Ti spring with their Works tune and i love it. the bike is a lot more supple now and doesnt blow through travel. it sits a bit lower in its travel too which i kind of like. i am running a few turns on the air volume adjuster
anyone notice that there fork dives threw the first 3 inches of travel really easily unless you use around 5 clicks of LSC?
so what are people actually running?
6'2'', 205lbs/93kg, 64deg HA morewood makulu
2 clicks from open compression
6 clicks from open preload
1/3 from open progressive/air volume
stock spring, stock valving
edit to add: really pretty impressed with this thing. plan to tinker a bit, but overall, well, marzocchi really is back. great to see.
6'2'', 205lbs/93kg, 64deg HA morewood makulu
2 clicks from open compression
6 clicks from open preload
1/3 from open progressive/air volume
stock spring, stock valving
edit to add: really pretty impressed with this thing. plan to tinker a bit, but overall, well, marzocchi really is back. great to see.
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What weight are you?
Katipo
64head
Open comp, buit will wind some back on. Want to do some corner only runs and inmspect travel. Then swithc some low for high by winding the comp on, then check travel used of rough stuff.
Zero preload
Stock spring and valving so far.
Can't recall what rebound.
Trek Session 88,
The ride is absolutely awesome. I got a service earlier this year and since then, I use about 19cm of travel. For the big hits there is 1cm of highly ramping travel left. Pretty ideal setup
Oh, I weigh 181lbs (82kg) without gear.
- Preload fully open (stock spring) about 28% sag standing on the bike
- Rebound 12 clicks from closed
- Compression 5 clicks from open
- Progression fully open
The ride is absolutely awesome. I got a service earlier this year and since then, I use about 19cm of travel. For the big hits there is 1cm of highly ramping travel left. Pretty ideal setup
Oh, I weigh 181lbs (82kg) without gear.
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205 lbs, 93kg
Bike: 2010 Demo 8 (64 HA) running a vivid 5.1 with a 450lbs spring.
Rider: 5' 10" 86.5 kg (191 lbs)
- Preload: 17/27
- Rebound: 3 clicks
- Compression: 8/9
- Progression: 18/20
This seems to be the best settings to keep the bike almost perfectly balanced. My local track is rough, steep and technical so I like the fork to stay reasonably high in it's travel whilst still being able to soak up all the chatter.
Rider: 5' 10" 86.5 kg (191 lbs)
- Preload: 17/27
- Rebound: 3 clicks
- Compression: 8/9
- Progression: 18/20
This seems to be the best settings to keep the bike almost perfectly balanced. My local track is rough, steep and technical so I like the fork to stay reasonably high in it's travel whilst still being able to soak up all the chatter.
There are two things I have found that can cause a slight knocking sound on the cartridge side of the fork. The first is the top of the cartridge shaft knocking on the plug unit/cap. This can be fixed by "taking up the gap" by adding an extra shim under the c-clip that holds the shaft in the plug unit/cap making it tighter and eliminating the small play up and down when the fork is compressed and/or extended. You can also add some thick grease under the plug unit/cap (can help if volume is all the way off).
In some cases I have found that after doing this fix there is still a slight knocking sound which I have found to be in the actual volume adjust threads. I have resolved this problem by wrapping 2-3 layers of heavy duty plumbers tape and then grease around the threads to tighten up the tollerance and to dampen the noise.
BK
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Rider: 90kgs
Hieght: 188cm (6'2'')
Bike: 2011 Turner DHR large with 2011 Roco RC WC Coil (custom tuned) with 450lbs spring.
Style: Smoothish
Spring: Firm with 5 turns of preload.
Rebound: 13-14 clicks on.
Compression: 7 clicks on with custom shim stack (20,19,18,14x1.5,17,16,11) to give more low speed compression with high speed blow off.
Oil volumes: R/H (spring leg) 170ml (lubricates much better than the stock 80ml)
L/H (damper side) 335ml both 7wt (juice lubes)
Volume adjust: irrelevant because it depend exactly how much oil is in the damper side and how much oil has blown past the volume adjust o-rings (if any)
And the little mods in previous post to eliminate any slight knocking noises.
Oh, and 66 lowers, cause I prefer the new QR20 system.
Forks and shock are SICK! Could not go back to using anything but Marzocchi!
BK
Hieght: 188cm (6'2'')
Bike: 2011 Turner DHR large with 2011 Roco RC WC Coil (custom tuned) with 450lbs spring.
Style: Smoothish
Spring: Firm with 5 turns of preload.
Rebound: 13-14 clicks on.
Compression: 7 clicks on with custom shim stack (20,19,18,14x1.5,17,16,11) to give more low speed compression with high speed blow off.
Oil volumes: R/H (spring leg) 170ml (lubricates much better than the stock 80ml)
L/H (damper side) 335ml both 7wt (juice lubes)
Volume adjust: irrelevant because it depend exactly how much oil is in the damper side and how much oil has blown past the volume adjust o-rings (if any)
And the little mods in previous post to eliminate any slight knocking noises.
Oh, and 66 lowers, cause I prefer the new QR20 system.
Forks and shock are SICK! Could not go back to using anything but Marzocchi!
BK
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Seems like you got a really sick setup. I'd really like to try that. You run 66 lowers? Can you upload some pics?
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well until Marz send me that shim, im going to continue to have a loud knocking noise to compete with my loud Angleset. awesome
is 90ml more oil really necessary for the spring side??
66 lowers on a 888?
OR you could take some initiative and do it yourself, it doesn't have to be a "Marz" shim, it just needs to fit in the described place or even replace the stock shim that is there with a slightly thicker washer. It only needs to be a bit thicker than the stock shim that is there to take up the small amount of play and so that the c-clip becomes a tight fit.well until Marz send me that shim, im going to continue to have a loud knocking noise to compete with my loud Angleset. awesome
is 90ml more oil really necessary for the spring side??
66 lowers on a 888?
No, the extra oil in the spring side is not necessary. You could probably use no oil in the spring side if you really wanted to (would even save some weight!) But I found that by doubling the stock 80-90ml of oil in the spring side that it keeps the bushings lubricated that much better, also keeps the fork cooler, much smoother and the oil change/service intervals down.
And yeah 66 lowers, they are the exact same casting as the 888s but without being drilled for the pinch bolts. Main reason I did this is because I need to remove my front wheel to fit in my car and I hate stuffing around with allen keys and pinch bolts all the time.
BK
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im assuming all that is needed is to unscrew the rebound knob, volume knob then remove the top cap right?
does the cap have to be removed off of the cartridge shaft to install the new shim underneath the c-clip? any ol' washer of appropriate diameter and thickness will work right?
thanks!
Yeah mate, remove screw from rebound adjuster knob and remove, NOTE: volume adjuster knob has the spring loaded ball (that gives it the clicks) in the side of the top cap so cup your hand around the volume adjuster knob while removing or you will lose the ball across the room! Then you can see the c-clip that you will need to fit another shim/washer under. You can test for the size of washer/shim required by getting some pliers and pulling the top of the shaft up to see how much of a gap needs to be taken up before actually removing the c-clip and fitting the shim/washer.
If you are going to do this I would recommend removing the top cap (with socket) and applying some heavy duty plumbers tape around the volume adjuster threads. About 2-3 wraps is usually good, you don't want to do much more than that because if it is too thick it will end up coming off when the volume adjust sleeve nut is adjusted up and down. also apply some grease to help the nut not to damage the plumbers tape.
Hope that's clear.
BK
Yeah for sure, I'll try and get some pics over the next few days and post them up for you.
thanks, ill give it a try tomorrow.
where do you think i can get a washer to fit into the space needed? would lowes or home depot have something in the approx size i would need? or are we talking about a shim the size of disc brake shims?
where do you think i can get a washer to fit into the space needed? would lowes or home depot have something in the approx size i would need? or are we talking about a shim the size of disc brake shims?
Yeah cool,
Sorry, I can't remember the exact size of the washer/shim needed. I know it is NOT the same internal diameter as other Marz shims ie Roco and Evo cart, it is slightly bigger. You will just need to measure and improvise and find something that will work.
Just tried to check for you, I think the internal diameter of the shim/washer needed is 10mm as the other Marz shims have an 8mm internal diameter.
I think the best thing to do is to remove the stock one and then take that with you to find something, it will probably need to be at least twice as thick. I have a feeling that the stock one might be 0.25mm so you will need one at least 0.5mm thick or thicker and file down.
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What oil weight are you running in the damper? I was running stock (7.5 I think?) and just changed it 10 minutes ago to 10-ish weight (with 20cc of 15wt because I ran out). I'm ~220 lbs naykid.
7.5 GS
3 clicks of compression, have to check rebound (I think 5 full turns from full in), No preload.
The only odd thing I did was negative air in the damper leg (closed the cap with the leg compressed then extended to crowns) which dealt with annoying top out clunk.
Ya I've played with the whole negative air thing a few times. I should look into that again. One knob at a time I guess
I rode it today on a "fast wide open trail". The thicker oil felt awesome. I would highly recommend it. I've got 1 click on the compression adjuster. IT finally has a good amount of LSC though. I'm running the same spring setup as you, x-firm with no preload. Are you running stock oil volume? I've got about 325 in there with the volume adjust backed all the way out.
new V2 valve for racing huh? those gold stanchions do look purty
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Bryson-Martin-Jr-Sr-Interview-Sea-Otter-2011.html
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Bryson-Martin-Jr-Sr-Interview-Sea-Otter-2011.html
I keep drooling for the Avy cart, but Mr. H8 up there insists I get the MZ damper tuned and give it a shot..
Ive got the Avy kool-aid running swift tho........
Ive got the Avy kool-aid running swift tho........
Hi mate,
Sorry, it took me a while to get some photos of the bike and forks (with 66 lowers).
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very sexy looking DHR
That seems to be like something that Marzocchi should see. Thanks for the pics!
You got a really fast looking bike!
You got a really fast looking bike!
No worries,
The bike is fast, I just have to make it go faster . . .
The forks and rear shock are amazing! Very happy with them both
I got a bit of a link here you can see the bike and forks in action.
http://www.pinkbike.com/video/193719/
Cheers
It's an 11mm ID shim in the top of the cart so they can be a bit tricky to source elsewhere but I'm sure someone could machine one up if they got stuck
How much do you weigh? Your sag won't change so adding compression damping won't make the fork sit any higher in its travel. The stock setting is pretty firm so I can't imagine many people needing more damping. If you want your fork to work properly, get the right spring.
I know the US just got a bunch more Steel springs in to stock which will fit in the Ti fork so if you don't want to spend heaps of money find out if they have any steel ones left.