Different brands vary a little but I don't know how Marz compares to say, Maxima.
2010 Marzocchi 888 Evo tuning thread
- Thread starter Kanye West
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some photos I took of the new cartridge I just received from Marzo. Slight differences, but still awaiting Marzo (ITA) feedback on what the new cartridge does to fork performance.
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some pics of the stock cartridge for comparison:
I can't see any difference between the new and the old one... But on photos it's always difficult...
Did you ride the new one yet? Differences between the new and the old one?
Did you ride the new one yet? Differences between the new and the old one?
Monarch: no, i haven't installed it yet. Since you in Italy, dont u wanna ring them up and ask them what's the story? 
the only real difference i've seen, and i'll admit to Not having directly seen the old one in my fork currently, is that silver button vs what looks like a hex head cap screw in the original cartridge.
I say silver button because it's spring loaded, and i'm not sure if the hex head bit can move similarly. anyone else know, and what is that for?
But in general, i'd have to agree there not much difference on the surface, so I'm really curious why marzo encouraged me to take this RMA.
the only real difference i've seen, and i'll admit to Not having directly seen the old one in my fork currently, is that silver button vs what looks like a hex head cap screw in the original cartridge.
I say silver button because it's spring loaded, and i'm not sure if the hex head bit can move similarly. anyone else know, and what is that for?
But in general, i'd have to agree there not much difference on the surface, so I'm really curious why marzo encouraged me to take this RMA.
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@Capricorn:
Maybe I'll do that!
Where are the Marzocchi employees when we need one?
Maybe I'll do that!
Where are the Marzocchi employees when we need one?
I hope you do, cos i'd really like to know what the differences are between the RMA cart and the original, what performance changes I can expect. If it makes the compression adjustments more sensitive, i'd be very damn happy, as currently, there is hardly any variation from zero to full compression damping.
Hey Monkeys,
Just recently bought a 2011 888 evo (not ti) with the tapered stanchions, hoping to be able to drop some weight by installing a ti spring from the evo ti. I called the Marzocchi rep here in oz only to be told that the ti spring won't fit.
Question is: has anyone put a ti spring into a new 2011 evo?
I've also been interested in the avalanche fork cartridge, but their site states: Marzocchi 888 38 mm EVO 2010-11 no fit available.
Has anyone with an evo ti fitted an avalanche kit?
Any help on either of the above would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers...
Just recently bought a 2011 888 evo (not ti) with the tapered stanchions, hoping to be able to drop some weight by installing a ti spring from the evo ti. I called the Marzocchi rep here in oz only to be told that the ti spring won't fit.
Question is: has anyone put a ti spring into a new 2011 evo?
I've also been interested in the avalanche fork cartridge, but their site states: Marzocchi 888 38 mm EVO 2010-11 no fit available.
Has anyone with an evo ti fitted an avalanche kit?
Any help on either of the above would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers...
that's strange, i have an avalanche kit in my 2010 888 ti, maybe he's short on adapters right now? best thing is to call/mail craig...
After long searches I finally found an explosion of the 888 evo ti. For your pleasure:
what the heck is #27 and #81?
do you have the parts description list?
Unfortunately I only found this.
But #27 and #81 should be two different spare kits. One is a complete bolt kit (I think) and the other one should be a seal kit.
But I'm only guessing.
But #27 and #81 should be two different spare kits. One is a complete bolt kit (I think) and the other one should be a seal kit.
But I'm only guessing.
i apparently spaced on #27
im trying to remove the dust seals on my Evo Ti and cant seem to pry them up with a small flat bladed screw driver. any suggestions?
i have the spring off but how is a open ended wrench going to lift up the dust seal with the stanchions still on? can you not do that to get to the foam ring?
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Doh! My bad, just thought you had problems prying them out of the lowers while having everything apart.
Prying the dust seals out while the inner stanchions are still present is a big hassle IMO, I'd rather pull them and have proper access.
Good luck!
looks good besides for the matching teal
Same stanchions as the Boxxers? Looks good!
Ive been riding my 888 evo Ti's for about a season now and just read through all 23 pages here with interest. Just trying to pick up tips and bits of know how on how to get the best out of this fork. I intend to start tinkering with the settings this season.
One thing i noticed a few people commenting on here is the compression adjustments, using the gold knob on the bottom of the fork (as quoted below). Maybe Im misunderstanding what you're typing, but do you guys not realise this knob controls both the high and low speed damping simultaneously? The curves for the HS and LS cross in the middle so if you set the dial on the middle click (I forget how many clicks there are now) you have zero HS and zero LS damping. Turning it all the way one way gives you max HS and vice versa with the LS.
This seemed a little backwards to me, considering the sticker shows a plus and minus in each direction but this is what Windwave told me here in the UK.
This might explain why people are coming back with responses like the one below. Unless Ive completely missed the point...
One thing i noticed a few people commenting on here is the compression adjustments, using the gold knob on the bottom of the fork (as quoted below). Maybe Im misunderstanding what you're typing, but do you guys not realise this knob controls both the high and low speed damping simultaneously? The curves for the HS and LS cross in the middle so if you set the dial on the middle click (I forget how many clicks there are now) you have zero HS and zero LS damping. Turning it all the way one way gives you max HS and vice versa with the LS.
This seemed a little backwards to me, considering the sticker shows a plus and minus in each direction but this is what Windwave told me here in the UK.
This might explain why people are coming back with responses like the one below. Unless Ive completely missed the point...
actually Joshd. my 'responses like the one [above]' wasn't a fictitious issue at all as your statement seems to suggest.
The cartridge was malfunctioning, and Marzo ITA confirmed there was a fault with it. It was replaced under RMA and the fork now feels better than new (the fault was there from the beginning and only got worse). Associated with the lack of sensitivity when adjust compression damping, the fork started diving badly.
Replacing the cart fixed both problems.
so yes, you did miss the point.
The cartridge was malfunctioning, and Marzo ITA confirmed there was a fault with it. It was replaced under RMA and the fork now feels better than new (the fault was there from the beginning and only got worse). Associated with the lack of sensitivity when adjust compression damping, the fork started diving badly.
Replacing the cart fixed both problems.
so yes, you did miss the point.
i started to develop a slight "knock" in the fork. i talked to Marz and they seem to know about the problem and there is a shim to fix it. they didnt get back to me on what type of shim it actually is, but hopefully i can get it soon. apparently it has to do with a problem with the volume adjuster.
i thought i was having headset issues, since the knock sounds like a headset coming loose, but after 3 headsets and two frames it obviously turned out to be the fork.
i thought i was having headset issues, since the knock sounds like a headset coming loose, but after 3 headsets and two frames it obviously turned out to be the fork.
Wait, wait, wait... So are you actually saying that your fork needed moar shimz?
The compression knob controls the low speed port, but by adjusting that, your changing it's flow, and moving the "elbow", the point where the high speed kicks in. More oil flow through the slow port, means oil pressure is hitting the high speed shims earlier than if the low speed had softened their blow. Ideally a custom variable shim stack would be ideal, and I'm guessing this is one of the things that Marzocchi do in their tunes.
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as hard as it is to believe. yes
ricehater: where is this shim required?
Hey, not saying anything fictitious is being said. Just pointing out what I know about the compression dial in relation to what is being said in this thread. Not just by Capricorn but by a couple of people.actually Joshd. my 'responses like the one [above]' wasn't a fictitious issue at all as your statement seems to suggest.
The cartridge was malfunctioning, and Marzo ITA confirmed there was a fault with it. It was replaced under RMA and the fork now feels better than new (the fault was there from the beginning and only got worse). Associated with the lack of sensitivity when adjust compression damping, the fork started diving badly.
Replacing the cart fixed both problems.
so yes, you did miss the point.
No skid marks is saying the same thing in his last post above. Can anyone else support what I am saying? ive been told it by the Uk importers and Ive read it somewhere else too. Its just that no one else here seems to be acknowledging this and Id like to be clear in myself about what the compression dial does.
Compression dial controls low speed compression, but in doing so, adjusts where high speed kicks in.
Low speed is in effect just a hole that the oil passes through, opened and closed by the low speed dial to restrict oil flow.
If Low speed is full open, the high speed shims get hit by the oil with the oils full force.
So I'm going to run low speed nearly full open, design a shim stack to suit my needs, and fine tune it with the low speed knob to suit tracks.
If this is too hard or annoying, I'm whacking my Avy cart in.
Low speed is in effect just a hole that the oil passes through, opened and closed by the low speed dial to restrict oil flow.
If Low speed is full open, the high speed shims get hit by the oil with the oils full force.
So I'm going to run low speed nearly full open, design a shim stack to suit my needs, and fine tune it with the low speed knob to suit tracks.
If this is too hard or annoying, I'm whacking my Avy cart in.
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dont know. i havent heard back from Ronnie yet after i asked about where its needed and when i can get it
Have any of you guys with the works tune managed to measure you stack configuration or got any further details on it?
For those who are really interested in shim stack tuning, this might be of assistance http://www.shimrestackor.com/
For those who are really interested in shim stack tuning, this might be of assistance http://www.shimrestackor.com/
Doing my first oil change here. Has anyone thought about, or added a PTFE (teflon) additive to the oil like they used to do? I did it on a 66 I used to have.
Also, I was thinking of checking a leak out I have at the bottom compression adjuster and it sure doesn't seem like the knob wants to come off. Any tips?
Also, I was thinking of checking a leak out I have at the bottom compression adjuster and it sure doesn't seem like the knob wants to come off. Any tips?
Marz does on the team rider's forks.
Did you loosen the screw on the side of the knob? Then use channel locks to pull it STRAIGHT off.
There isn't a screw. Previous posts in this thread confirm it just snaps on, but I didn't think it would be so tough to get off. Guess I'll go to the garage with a rag and some Channel locks.
Def just snaps on with a rubber o ring for frictitation. If you smacked it, it might be a fight coming off. Mine has anice chunky nick in it, but still comes off with a firm tug.There isn't a screw. Previous posts in this thread confirm it just snaps on, but I didn't think it would be so tough to get off. Guess I'll go to the garage with a rag and some Channel locks.
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O.K. Garage mechanic crap just sucks sometimes...
I've always had a small leak near the compression adjuster, and I wanted to install new o-rings. Any tips on getting the black nut loose on the bottom of the damper so I can remove it/drop the lowers?
Thinking about just pulling the trigger on a Works service at this point.
I've always had a small leak near the compression adjuster, and I wanted to install new o-rings. Any tips on getting the black nut loose on the bottom of the damper so I can remove it/drop the lowers?
Thinking about just pulling the trigger on a Works service at this point.