[Kurt_80]

Aren't there several versions of the Formula T1? Not that I have experience with any of them, just to limit the chance of confusion...

Good point. Mine are the OEM models that came on the Lapierre DH722. As per below:

The caption reads: Formula The One S brakes appear to be The One calipers paired with RX lever-bodies and levers. While the adjustment screw is easily accessible and not overly inconvenient for those that ride with tools, I would like a pad or lever adjustment knob.

 

[Sandwich]

After my recent Whistler trip I'm looking for a little more power and better heat management. Currently running Formula T1 calipers and standard Formula 203 rotors. The rear is a little warped, I presume from heat and not the airline- the bike was fairly well protected on it's journey.

I'm wondering if 220/223mm rotors would tick both boxes. On that note, has anyone got any experience with Galfer? I can get a pair delivered (standard, not floating) for about $130 AUD.

Also, is floating that much better than standard in terms of heat management?

On the other hand, should I just pony up for a newer, betterer and bigglier brake system?

Thanks in advance.

Edited for clarity.

Maybe. I had T1S brakes, which are T1 but with one less adjustment and some other minor downgrade. They weren't up to snuff for truly aggressive DH braking. They were fine for bike park stuff and I think they'd make a wonderful trail bike brake (though maybe a little loud). I weighed 206 with 26" wheels when I rode them.

I ended up replacing them with magura MT5s, as I couldn't find good 225mm rotors, and was already running metallic pads. Immediately heat pump went away and power increased, but I still wished for a little more power and grab. I got some race level pads for the MT5s, but I haven't been back on the mountain since I upgraded.

I think if you were a lighter rider or riding bike park stuff you'd be fine, but changing the brakes was a better option for me. If the brakes had black hoses, they'd be on my trail rig, but I don't have the heart to swap hoses then learn how to bleed yet another brake system.

 

[Kurt_80]

Maybe. I had T1S brakes, which are T1 but with one less adjustment and some other minor downgrade. They weren't up to snuff for truly aggressive DH braking. They were fine for bike park stuff and I think they'd make a wonderful trail bike brake (though maybe a little loud). I weighed 206 with 26" wheels when I rode them.

I ended up replacing them with magura MT5s, as I couldn't find good 225mm rotors, and was already running metallic pads. Immediately heat pump went away and power increased, but I still wished for a little more power and grab. I got some race level pads for the MT5s, but I haven't been back on the mountain since I upgraded.

I think if you were a lighter rider or riding bike park stuff you'd be fine, but changing the brakes was a better option for me. If the brakes had black hoses, they'd be on my trail rig, but I don't have the heart to swap hoses then learn how to bleed yet another brake system.

Interesting. What levers do you run with the MT5s? You can get a full set of them on the German sites for around E200, but that's with the stock evers.

 

[Nick]

My Curas have developed a strange issue. Pads are rubbing randomly, even if I haven't been on the brakes, they howl like they're wet and I'm DH'ing, when I'm coasting off the brakes. Then it stops after a few seconds.

Hub is tight, not a flex issue.
Inadequate pad roll back?

 

[6thElement]

My Curas have developed a strange issue. Pads are rubbing randomly, even if I haven't been on the brakes, they howl like they're wet and I'm DH'ing, when I'm coasting off the brakes. Then it stops after a few seconds.

Hub is tight, not a flex issue.
Inadequate pad roll back?

Sounds like what I battle with my RO's, Formula's minimal rollback exacerbating the issue.

New Code's are sounding tempting, even though I swore I'd never buy Code's again after the POS first gen versions.

 

[Sandwich]

Interesting. What levers do you run with the MT5s? You can get a full set of them on the German sites for around E200, but that's with the stock evers.

I have the stock levers. I don't love them, but the MT5s are nice because you can crank them in enough to get comfortable even with a tight squeeze. The lever profile is a little square compared to the wonderfulness of shimano and others. I initially thought I needed more hydraulic power, but I think the race pads will give me the power I need even with the stock setup. The MT5 and MT7 have a similar hydraulic system, but the MT5s lose bite point adjust and the knob adjuster for reach.

 

[two-one]

I have the stock levers. I don't love them, but the MT5s are nice because you can crank them in enough to get comfortable even with a tight squeeze. The lever profile is a little square compared to the wonderfulness of shimano and others. I initially thought I needed more hydraulic power, but I think the race pads will give me the power I need even with the stock setup. The MT5 and MT7 have a similar hydraulic system, but the MT5s lose bite point adjust and the knob adjuster for reach.

I got my hands om some new MT5's for cheap, and combined them with a set of BL-M7100 SLX levers. So far they feel pretty good! I expected some rubbing, but nada... flushed all the royal blood out, and replaced with shimano mineral oil.
I do think the stock blue 'comfort' pads aren't that great, but I'll give them a chance... for now.

 

[Sandwich]

whoa...the lever mount is totally different on that, right? I'm not high?

I thought about doing that, but I just don't have the time and energy. My stock pads were the single piece black ones. They may have been performance rather than comfort, but they didn't have the juice for full on DH runs. My current ones are the brass colored "race" format, which adds more metal.

 

[two-one]

whoa...the lever mount is totally different on that, right? I'm not high?

I thought about doing that, but I just don't have the time and energy. My stock pads were the single piece black ones. They may have been performance rather than comfort, but they didn't have the juice for full on DH runs. My current ones are the brass colored "race" format, which adds more metal.

Shimano says its stiffer, and prevents wandering bite point. The levers blades are now flatter/wider too, which is nice. So far no problems.

The original MT5 levers were just too long, putting the clamp in the same spot as my shifter/dropper clamp when I have it set for 1-finger braking. They must have thought that the longer lever generates more power, and that the flexing of the carbotexture is a "modulation feature"... meh!

 

[Happymtb.fr]

Same here, I ditched the Magura levers for Shimano's ergonomy. After around 2 seasons, the stroke is now much longer, most probably because the servo-wave mechanism has worn out as Udi mentioned earlier.

 

[Kurt_80]

Same here, I ditched the Magura levers for Shimano's ergonomy. After around 2 seasons, the stroke is now much longer, most probably because the servo-wave mechanism has worn out as Udi mentioned earlier.

Were these MT5s or 7s?

 

[Happymtb.fr]

Were these MT5s or 7s?

The brakes were the Mt Trail sport version: https://www.magura.com/en/components/bike/disc-brakes/productdetailpage/?p=26509
Which combines MT4 and MT5 if I recall correctly.

 

[dovbush66]

Anyone get any time on trickstuff power pads in the wet?

 

[Nick]

Anyone else experiencing the random Cura rubbing / noise?

Any known tweaks to increase pad roll back, or increase static spacing off of the rotor?

Moar shimz?

 

[dovbush66]

Anyone else experiencing the random Cura rubbing / noise?

Any known tweaks to increase pad roll back, or increase static spacing off of the rotor?

Moar shimz?

Might be worth cleaning pistons, lubing and cycling them a few times. Helped me with DOT ROs before the caliper seals got totally fucked
I think castrol red rubber grease is what was recommended for mineral oil brakes. Hopefully yours is just grit n shit dirtying up the pistons and not wrecked seals or anything. maybe check some other stuff like the pad spring and retaining bolt.

 

[kidwoo]

Anyone else experiencing the random Cura rubbing / noise?

Any known tweaks to increase pad roll back, or increase static spacing off of the rotor?

Moar shimz?

TMJDT technology

This Model Just Does That


You know how tight the throw is on those pistons. Merciless with anything but the straightest of rotors. Got nothin for a solution.

 

[StiHacka]

Put Hopes T3E4 on the biggest bike last year. I like them despite long idle time. Save me lawd.

 

[shirk007]

Has it been said before that MT5's are great brakes and a great value? Run em with some Kool Stop sintered metal pads.

 

[Flo33]

Anyone get any time on trickstuff power pads in the wet?

Yes. No problems, same like in dry conditions.

And also super tight fitting of the R0Rs, even on the straightest of straight rotors. Bought the Formula 2 piece ones coz the Shimano IceTechs drove me nuts with their wallowing after one brake intensive ride. Helped a bit.

 

[dovbush66]

Yes. No problems, same like in dry conditions.

And also super tight fitting of the R0Rs, even on the straightest of straight rotors. Bought the Formula 2 piece ones coz the Shimano IceTechs drove me nuts with their wallowing after one brake intensive ride. Helped a bit.

Balls, I just switched to ice techs. overpaid for them a bit too coz morzine lol. no issues with rub bar the usual bit i get with fresh pads so far so fingers crossed.
Cheers for the feedback on the pads. They sound sweet

 

[6thElement]

Anyone else experiencing the random Cura rubbing / noise?

Any known tweaks to increase pad roll back, or increase static spacing off of the rotor?

Moar shimz?

Have you tried cleaning the pistons in case there's some crud or a lazy seal?
I like the string method in the first link:

Tech Talks: Fixing Sticky Pistons, Presented by Park Tool Video - Pinkbike

Tech Talks: Fixing Sticky Pistons, Presented by Park Tool

www.pinkbike.com

 

[Nick]

Have you tried cleaning the pistons in case there's some crud or a lazy seal?

I haven't but I'll try.

 

[twodogsfighting]

Got my cura4s the other day. Theres a fair amount of visible flex at the caliper, which is a bit worrying.

 

[jstuhlman]

Balls, I just switched to ice techs. overpaid for them a bit too coz morzine lol. no issues with rub bar the usual bit i get with fresh pads so far so fingers crossed.
Cheers for the feedback on the pads. They sound sweet

i've been happily running ice techs on mine.

 

[mykel]

Kinda glad I did not go with Cura4 but with Hayes Dominion instead.
So far I'm liking them.
Great modulation, very light feel, no rubbing, and huge power when you need it.
They were also easy to bleed.

 

[Happymtb.fr]

I swiftly checked my buddy's Dominion the other day, what stood out for me was the lengthy lever stroke before hitting the bit point. It doesn't need to be bad, it's just the opposite of the Cura2.

Edit: the dead stroke is apparently adjustable

 

[Kurt_80]

I swiftly checked my buddy's Dominion the other day, what stood out for me was the lengthy lever stroke before hitting the bit point. It doesn't need to be bad, it's just the opposite of the Cura2.

What's the power like? Would it be suitable for DH?

Just read Mykel's impression, sounds promising.

 

[Happymtb.fr]

What's the power like?

I have no idea, but my buddy regularly does podium in the masters class of the local enduro races so I guess it's enough power. He likes the brakes and I respect his opinion. FWIW

 

[mykel]

What's the power like? Would it be suitable for DH?

Just read Mykel's impression, sounds promising.

The Hopes T3V4 are on a 27.5 / 26 mullet.
The Hayes A4's are on a 29r.
Both with 203/180 rotors.
They both have a similar feel at the lever,(They are closer in feel to each other than to the Avid X0 Trails - my only other 4 piston brakes)
The Hayes are stronger.

 

[jeremy_2640]

Hey CURA4 owners, I stuffed up and bought a PM6" to 203mm adapter. I have Fox 36 which are 180mm post so I need a PM180 to 203mm adapter. Does anyone know if SRAM and Shimano adapters work with the CURA4's?

Shipping is super expensive for the Formulas so if one of these works that would be great.

Cheers,

 

[kidwoo]

My shimano ones wouldn't work on the older IS fox 40 I have. The indentation wasn't deep enough. Dont know how that applies to post mount but if you have the choice, I'd buy a aram or Hayes one.

 

[jstuhlman]

dunno...i got a formula one...but why not try it now when it arrives, and then shim it now if needed?

 

[Nick]

Shimano won't work on post mount either, same issue, indent too shallow.

Not sure where you're located but universal cycles has them in stock in the States.

 

[6thElement]

Shimano won't work on post mount either, same issue, indent too shallow.

Not sure where you're located but universal cycles has them in stock in the States.

View attachment 136478

As much as I like Universal, I'm going to say probably not the cheap option for him

Google Maps

Find local businesses, view maps and get driving directions in Google Maps.

www.google.com

 

[jeremy_2640]

dunno...i got a formula one...but why not try it now when it arrives, and then shim it now if needed?

I've got it now. As it's for 160mm to 203mm the spacing is 20mm too big...

Worst case to get me running I will turn up some individual spacers on the lathe until I can get a 1-piece adapter that works with them....

Thanks others for the Shimano feedback.

Anyone tried the SRAM adapter?

 

[jeremy_2640]

For others reference - I managed to grab a SRAM adapter to check. Doesn't fit.

 

[maxyedor]

For others reference - I managed to grab a SRAM adapter to check. Doesn't fit.

Do you have a Magura dealer near by? The Cura 4s have the same issue on most rear adapters, as do the MT5/7. The newer Magura adapters all seem to work with Cura 4s.

 

[buckoW]

Kinda glad I did not go with Cura4 but with Hayes Dominion instead.
So far I'm liking them.
Great modulation, very light feel, no rubbing, and huge power when you need it.
They were also easy to bleed.

I’m really liking the Hayes Dominion as well

 

[Happymtb.fr]

About the Dominions, the dead stroke is apparently adjustable. The article I read said that it is set at the factory.
Is it possible for home mechanics to adjust it?

 

[Flo33]

I’m really liking the Hayes Dominion as well

Hey Ben, how do they compare to R0Rs powerwise? I think you also had those if I'm not mistaken. Are the levers adjustable to get the bite point close to the bars?

I'm in the process of getting a DH bike again and am really happy with the R0Rs on the trail bike but for the big bike I'd like to have a bit more power, so it's either gonna be 220 rotors or Saint brakes (with all their flaws).