I would like to know, besides the fox 831, is there any other fork under 4 pounds? I know that some people on here can mix 5 forks and create a better one, i cant, i dont have many lite choices for forks that are 80mm or less, am i wrong?
Strange. Beyond the initial shimming (which took all of 5 minutes) I never had to touch my 36 Float. 1.5 years+ and still killing it.fox needs lots of service, whether it be changing the oil or adding float fluid, checking for wear making sure the magnesium lowers havent sustained any damage, constantly fiddling with air pressures and worrying about having the lockout knobs hitting frames downtubes due to clearance issues (there are lots of them)
Go ride more. Then come back and talk. Being someone who has tested an absolute plethora of different freeride and dirtjump parts, I know there is a massive difference between high end, mid level, and low end. Weight is a big variable, and where the weight is on the bike is even more so. Stay in school.Bike weight never matters unless we are talking 40 pounds, 25 to 30 makes no difference, i have a light bike (sub 25) but everything i do on it i can also do on my buddy's 30 pounder. all this talk about rotational weight and lighter cranks giving you more control, yes it does exist but i think its alot more internet mumbo jumbo then it is actually practical in THE REAL WORLD. if you cant do it on a bike with massive diabolus cranks, a nice set of profiles or demolitions wont help you either.
I love my argyle.. if it could get below 4.5lbs, it'd be the perfect fork.. Are they making the 831 in 15mm like originally projected? or 20mm?good points getting brought up in here, as i said, the 831 leads (by weight and simplicity) with the argyle being 2nd and the 4x third.
15mm, but the wheels that will be on it can be capped for 15mmI love my argyle.. if it could get below 4.5lbs, it'd be the perfect fork.. Are they making the 831 in 15mm like originally projected? or 20mm?
agree, but who knows, maybe one day we might look back on it and realize how stupid 20mm is/wasIts the one thing that erks me about the 831... why make things that much more difficult, everyone uses 20mm.. so why not use 20mm. Sigh.
ok? i guess your the mystical bike guru. i don't know where you go the idea that i would need to go ride more or that your "plethora" of bike testing is any greater then mine. weight makes a differance, but like i said if you cant do it on a 30 pounders its not magically going to work for you if you have a bike thats 5 pounds lighterGo ride more. Then come back and talk. Being someone who has tested an absolute plethora of different freeride and dirtjump parts, I know there is a massive difference between high end, mid level, and low end. Weight is a big variable, and where the weight is on the bike is even more so. Stay in school.
ya im not sure with the 831, i am still waiting to hear back on pricingso since you'll have a 831 in a month whats volume 2 for justins superco build?
Justin's Superco thread volume 2: Brake cableso since you'll have a 831 in a month whats volume 2 for justins superco build?
Justin's Superco thread volume 3: bar endsJustin's Superco thread volume 2: Brake cable
I am close to done(hypothetically of course)do you have a complete potential build in mind? i would be curious to see a full spec list of what your planning on building?
you have deity's use them, all you need is a 19mm mid bb kit, they are like 20 bucks and your set. why bother with new cranks if you have ones that work.Superco chargers have a Mid BB, i understand that these are press in bearings?
I have deity vandettas, that are "bmx style" mtb cranks, they have bearings that thread in, rather than press in. I would assume that i can run the deity's i currently have, with new press in bearings, but i am not sure. It may throw off the width and other stuff i probably havent even thought of.
What are recommendations for cranks or BB, if i cant run the deitys, or if i should just scrap them all together and start over.
Profile comes to mind, who else?
68/73 simply means that the sindle length will work with those bb widths. there will be space, but the cones and little spacers that come with the kit address that, no different than profiles or any other 3 piece crank.Will the new BB kit fit the deity spindles correctly, I dont know the measurements, but i would think that a new mid BB could/would leave room for side to side play, the deity is a 68/73, does mid come in that width.
good ya i9's for the dj's will be fine but for park or street i would be a little concerned about durability. 120 eng pts also created more drag which is the only downfall to those hubsTo address the industry 9 situation, i have the rear wheel from the simple i plan to keep, the Freecoaster laced to the pimp with the huge atomlab nipples, i figure that the Industries should survive fine for dirt jumping (ive seen a few set ups) and for street gnar and winter riding, throw on the pimp. The industry wheels weigh 1750 grams, not sure if that is good or not, but i rock I9s on everything else and love them, so why not this. (and the trade plus cash helped a little bit. )
all mountains, but this set is a left over, which is the old enduros? either way, they are MINT. so it was worth it to me, i can always put them on the banshee or any other 135 bike.68/73 simply means that the sindle length will work with those bb widths. there will be space, but the cones and little spacers that come with the kit address that, no different than profiles or any other 3 piece crank.
good ya i9's for the dj's will be fine but for park or street i would be a little concerned about durability. 120 eng pts also created more drag which is the only downfall to those hubs
1750 complete? what wheel set is it the enduro's?
i do plan to, but after i wear out the sb8sGet intense micro knobbys. TheTruth approves of those tires.
any recommendations on the BB?
they are all the same, all use the same r12 bearing so the performance will be identical only difference is the cones that are simply there for looks. pick any 19mm mid bb kit
lastly, what brake should i run, first thought goes to elixers, however, my Code wasnt strong enough, and my saint just barely makes it. (the saint im using is in a set, that can help pay for this bike)
if you plan on only using 1 brake sell the saint set no use only using 1, how strong of a brake do you need? all you should need to be able to do is slow down and then be able to lock it up for taps ect. an elixr r is good, and the bb7 mech is never bad either since its simple, pretty well maintance free, and dual pad adjustments so you can easily lock it up.
I found the animal sprokey balboa has a 27T, but 55 dollars HOLY ISH! Do these sprokets fit with the deity, i have a deity sproket, but never really did anything involving them.
all you need is a 19mm bore in the sprocket, any sprocket should come in either 22mm or 19mm, so get the 19 in what ever tooth size you want all sprockets perform the same so pick one on looks or what have you
edit: a good cheap option is the eastern madusa lite, i dont think it comes in 27 but its cheap and light
Not to thread jack... but have you ever tried 165 cranks? They are harder top find for steel cranks, I have been curious as to how they feel as opposed to the standard 170 or 175Justin's Deity cranks are trashed, to the point where i am going to throw them out. So i plan to buy Profile cranks, (huge rep for great stuff) but do i want the normal cranks or pay double for the light ones. Is the weight worth the money?
normal-http://www.danscomp.com/452553.php?cat=PARTS
light-http://www.danscomp.com/452554.php?cat=PARTS
Also, i usually run 170s, but i had to get 175 for deitys, i see that the light ones are 175 or 180, long cranks better for DJ and street?
ridden 165 (have them on my demo 9) they are ok, i personally think they feel small, but i have ridden only 170s for the 5 years before that, i will probably get 170s again, should i spend the extra to save the weight?Not to thread jack... but have you ever tried 165 cranks? They are harder top find for steel cranks, I have been curious as to how they feel as opposed to the standard 170 or 175
If money is no object.. go for it. Lighter bike is a lighter bike.ridden 165 (have them on my demo 9) they are ok, i personally think they feel small, but i have ridden only 170s for the 5 years before that, i will probably get 170s again, should i spend the extra to save the weight?