They work just as well as the PWs with a bit less range...I've got a set. Definitely recommend them if you can't afford the Pocketwizards.
MTB photography Article - UPDATE pt. 3
- Thread starter Transcend
- Start date
The Alien Bee ones apparently work pretty well. Much shorter range and all they do is fire a flash like the PW Plus 2. they cannot do any of the higher functions of a multimax.
But for about $100 less than a plus, they are fine for screwing around and about a million times more reliable than those ebay pieces of crap.
I had some alien bee lights awhile ago, and while they were ok, i wouldn't use them for any crucial work. The build quality was low and the color temperature varied pretty badly, especially at lower levels. Lots of red and pink tones in the whites.
And yes, that sam hill photo was off camera flash. I very, VERY rarely use on camera flash for riders. It looks flat and has no dimension. It also usually has a black background in the woods.
Oh, and I routinely use small softboxes, umbrellas or a beauty dish in the woods now.
But for about $100 less than a plus, they are fine for screwing around and about a million times more reliable than those ebay pieces of crap.
I had some alien bee lights awhile ago, and while they were ok, i wouldn't use them for any crucial work. The build quality was low and the color temperature varied pretty badly, especially at lower levels. Lots of red and pink tones in the whites.
And yes, that sam hill photo was off camera flash. I very, VERY rarely use on camera flash for riders. It looks flat and has no dimension. It also usually has a black background in the woods.
Oh, and I routinely use small softboxes, umbrellas or a beauty dish in the woods now.
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AI servo for sports. Single shot would only let you take one shot, and only when it's fully in focus.
i use single servo, and prefocus most of the time.
can there be links to open this one thread in the lounge, and creative pursuits as well? kinda out of place in the downhill section
Another Topic....
How to you watch your horizons... Seems like no matter how i try my horizons come out a little off... i use a tripod sometimes with the same results...
I think my landscape images come out DOPE, but what messed up the picture are the Horizons sometime.... are there any tips of watching Horizons at all?
How to you watch your horizons... Seems like no matter how i try my horizons come out a little off... i use a tripod sometimes with the same results...
I think my landscape images come out DOPE, but what messed up the picture are the Horizons sometime.... are there any tips of watching Horizons at all?
Sometimes I shoot and fix it later, if I am trying to line it up I use the auto focus boxes. I have held a bunch of cameras and I cannot recall... think it was the nikon D3. It had something similar to flying an airplane that shows you if you are level with the horizon due to gravity.
yes, due to gravity. the gravitometer is quite a selling point for a camera company. though it was ultimately usurped by the humblest of god's accidental creations- the bubble.
instead of getting the boxxer? i thought it meant you just couldnt get the new 5dmkII 
nice lens dave...
nice lens dave...
sick glass
I was on the fence, new boxxer, new lens, new camera body?instead of getting the boxxer? i thought it meant you just couldnt get the new 5dmkII
then i realized i have an 08 Boxxer, and i got the 40D in July.... Still new, so i decided to get Glass.
Hello Fraser,
are you using a beauty dish on the elinchromes or the speedlights??
and are the elinchroms a pain in the a** to move around while shooting WC`s??
are you using a beauty dish on the elinchromes or the speedlights??
and are the elinchroms a pain in the a** to move around while shooting WC`s??
Beaty dish on Rangers. Never seen one for speedlights.
My Fav. Shot of 2008....
Nito... i really like this shot because you can see the IX trail behind him how it ZigZags behind Nito.... What i don't like of this image is i messed up and left my camera bag in the background... i think it's an awesome image though.
Trans (or anyone else) what would you have done Differently?
Camera Make: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 40D
Image Date: 2008:11:01 14:39:48
Flash Used: No
Focal Length: 60.0mm
CCD Width: 3.82mm
Exposure Time: 0.0031 s (1/320)
Aperture: f/4.5
ISO equiv: 200
White Balance: Manual
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
Nito... i really like this shot because you can see the IX trail behind him how it ZigZags behind Nito.... What i don't like of this image is i messed up and left my camera bag in the background... i think it's an awesome image though.
Trans (or anyone else) what would you have done Differently?
Camera Make: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 40D
Image Date: 2008:11:01 14:39:48
Flash Used: No
Focal Length: 60.0mm
CCD Width: 3.82mm
Exposure Time: 0.0031 s (1/320)
Aperture: f/4.5
ISO equiv: 200
White Balance: Manual
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
Dave I like the composition of that picture. I don't like seeing the guy wires, but that is how the trail is made. Also it seems VERY over saturated, and a little blue. I think you could drop the saturation and warm the picture. That would still allow you to keep the fall leaves looking nice, but make the rider look a little better as well.
Definitely oversaturated, you can tell as the white jersey in shadows is showing blue. Rider is under exposed by a fair amount. The wires for the pole annoy me way more than the bag.
Dave, have you ever calibrated your monitor? I have seen the picture on a bunch of different monitors and it always looks over saturated. Would you mind posting the original? Maybe you added to much contrast.
I second that do an article on PP next. 
I vote we get into composition and lighting, specific to mtb first!I second that do an article on PP next.
Great pictures are made in the camera.
I won't ever do a post processing article. Get it right in the camera. My post processing consist of - export as: "Full Rez Jpeg" or "TIFF" for print. That's about it.
halle-mufuggin-lujah!
looking at the new dirt (not to mention bike) shows that you don't necessarily need crazy up-to-the-minute gear to make rad photos.
sure, all the newest tech-nerd gear is fun to have and use, but there's plenty of proof out there that shows expensive gear doesn't mean a better photo and "out-dated" gear can still produce a really great photo. the most interesting photos are often not technically dialed.
A great photographer starts with the right spot, getting the right composition, lighting and knows just when the time is perfect to press the shutter, and can do it on a consistent basis. Without getting all that right, the photograph will be just another shot.
Great equipment gets the most out of that.
kinda like biking.
just my opinion anyways.
Great equipment gets the most out of that.
kinda like biking.
just my opinion anyways.
just the fall ones dave
A great photograph accurately captures an amazing moment, event, or emotion. Yeah, fancy gear can help, but some of us are more interested in the story the photo tells than in the actual documentation itself.
I'd rather see a poorly made photograph of something really interesting than a perfectly made photo of something boring, typical, or mundane.
The best lighting is that which allows a photo to tell its story with the most accurate power. In my opinion, of course.
Apaerture Priority Vs. Manual Mode....
In bright days i shoot in A mode, in dark areas i like to shoot full manual... what are you guys thought on this issue..?
sometimes in direct sunlight i get 1/1000.....
I noticed when i shoot in AV more (aperture priority) the colors of the image are true and bright, but when i shoot in manual my skies come out over exposed, yet it freezes the action.
In bright days i shoot in A mode, in dark areas i like to shoot full manual... what are you guys thought on this issue..?
sometimes in direct sunlight i get 1/1000.....
I noticed when i shoot in AV more (aperture priority) the colors of the image are true and bright, but when i shoot in manual my skies come out over exposed, yet it freezes the action.
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could your colour settings be different in the menus? I know on my nikon you can chose normal, portrait, saturated, high saturated. this will change how the pictures come out. I have it set how I like it in manual. In aperture priority and shutter priority it is different. I shoot manual 99% of the time, if I dont shoot manual its full automatic for a snap shot.
to go from this:
to this:
thanks in part to this thread!
found out my iso was set wayyyy to high causing noise in the camera creating a blurry, grainy picture. slowed my iso way down to 200, had the shutter speed about 250, and produced a better picture. its not perfect by any means but its better. i wanna know how to make it even better with what i have(D40 with kit glass), planning on getting a SB-900 in the spring.
is the SB-900 worth the extra money than the SB-800?
to this:
thanks in part to this thread!
found out my iso was set wayyyy to high causing noise in the camera creating a blurry, grainy picture. slowed my iso way down to 200, had the shutter speed about 250, and produced a better picture. its not perfect by any means but its better. i wanna know how to make it even better with what i have(D40 with kit glass), planning on getting a SB-900 in the spring.
is the SB-900 worth the extra money than the SB-800?
Yes the SB flashes are okay.... Sigma Makes some flashes for the nikon as well, just as great and cheaper in price.
The 4D0 is an awesome camera, keep practicing, remember for SPORTS you needs faster shutter speeds...
In a bright sunny day you can sure AV mode (aperture priority) the camera will set the shutter speed for you, and if you have tons of light you can get 1/500 to 1/1000th shutter speed, then you can fiddle around with the aperture.
But for indoors, like the pics above, you have have to UV TV (Shutter priority) or Full Manual... I personally use Full Manual. Just put Manual's Shutter @ 250 and mess around with the Aperture...
Have fun... once you start producing awesome images you will wanna do it all the time....
it's a hobby of mine that i enjoy as much as i enjoy riding DH!
The 4D0 is an awesome camera, keep practicing, remember for SPORTS you needs faster shutter speeds...
In a bright sunny day you can sure AV mode (aperture priority) the camera will set the shutter speed for you, and if you have tons of light you can get 1/500 to 1/1000th shutter speed, then you can fiddle around with the aperture.
But for indoors, like the pics above, you have have to UV TV (Shutter priority) or Full Manual... I personally use Full Manual. Just put Manual's Shutter @ 250 and mess around with the Aperture...
Have fun... once you start producing awesome images you will wanna do it all the time....
it's a hobby of mine that i enjoy as much as i enjoy riding DH!
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