dunno. But this is an 11sp system, with a KMC chain.does shimano plan on releasing 12spd chain pins? i know they have them for 11spd. haven't seen them for 12spd tho
dunno. But this is an 11sp system, with a KMC chain.does shimano plan on releasing 12spd chain pins? i know they have them for 11spd. haven't seen them for 12spd tho
I think they're all in on quick links now. Their 11s quick link came out well after they'd launched 11s drivetrains IIRC, hence the period of overlap.does shimano plan on releasing 12spd chain pins? i know they have them for 11spd. haven't seen them for 12spd tho
ah that makes sense. in all fairness i don't mind the pins, i still use the quick links, but the pins came in handy one time i broke a chain and had to add a few links back on after the ride. or is it no longer frowned upon using multiple quick links in a chain?I think they're all in on quick links now. Their 11s quick link came out well after they'd launched 11s drivetrains IIRC, hence the period of overlap.
Industry lizards still dislike.or is it no longer frowned upon using multiple quick links in a chain?
ever see a half link chain?Industry lizards still dislike.
I use multiple quick links when it makes sense.ah that makes sense. in all fairness i don't mind the pins, i still use the quick links, but the pins came in handy one time i broke a chain and had to add a few links back on after the ride. or is it no longer frowned upon using multiple quick links in a chain?
This and you shouldn't use more than an 11 tooth upper pully. To get the best chain wrap.Shimano and SRAM both have their requirements listed and it’s easy to follow the required setup/distance.
what caught me out when transitioning to 12sp and large range cassettes is to not make the chain too short. The old rule of 2 spare links does not apply, and the chain needs to be as long as possible i.e. the derailleur should almost be fully ‘collapsed’ when in the small cog on the cassette. If not you will struggle to set the b tension screw and get to the largest cog.
I use the line on the back of the XT derailleur to set mine, also seem to have better luck setting the derailleur when the suspension is in sagged position.that's my plan... hope to use it as little as possible.
btw, does anyone have a link to a good resource on how to adjust the b-tension screw? when I have it adjusted how I think it works right, I can't drop into the highest gear, the knuckle of the derailleur seems to hit the chain and prevent it turning. But when i push the derailleur back enough (w the b-tension screw), the chain wrap seems minimal... it's puzzling. and my first time struggling with this...
That gap looks way too wide.I use the line on the back of the XT derailleur to set mine, also seem to have better luck setting the derailleur when the suspension is in sagged position.
Random cool story bro - I recently got a 50tooth cassette and 12 speed Shimano derailleur, which I setup following this and aligned it all up according to that line. Shifting just didn't work with it set like that, I had to make it much closer. Amazingly how one or two turns of that screw can have such a big effect on the shifting.I use the line on the back of the XT derailleur to set mine, also seem to have better luck setting the derailleur when the suspension is in sagged position.
Yep, I disregard any instructions and turn the screw till it works.Random cool story bro - I recently got a 50tooth cassette and 12 speed Shimano derailleur, which I setup following this and aligned it all up according to that line. Shifting just didn't work with it set like that, I had to make it much closer. Amazingly how one or two turns of that screw can have such a big effect on the shifting.
A friend of mine bought it new rode it for 6 months and made me an incredible deal on it. Like less than half of retail. Couldn't turn it down. Normally Trek would not be my go to, it does ride very well though. Knock Block is really dumb.a trek? really?
You can replace the lower headset cup and race to get rid of the knockblock.A friend of mine bought it new rode it for 6 months and made me an incredible deal on it. Like less than half of retail. Couldn't turn it down. Normally Trek would not be my go to, it does ride very well though. Knock Block is really dumb.
Damn, $300+USD for pedals is going beyond dentist and into SF Bay Area Tesla driving tech dork range....Why did I have to look at the Flat Pedal Thread? I just got dentisty and ordered some of these-
View attachment 177246
Ball bearings and a grease port sold me, I hate maintenance.
Didn't know that Shimano made 220mm rotors. Interesting that the aluminum spider is so small and not even part of the 6 bolt version. Other "levels" to follow?View attachment 177272
New Assegai, Fillmore Valves, and 220mm rotor on the Sled. Stoked to go for a rip.
EDIT: Also put on a 203 rear rotor, because if I run 180/220, I surely would explode in a fiery train crash.
Didn't know that Shimano made 220mm rotors. Interesting that the aluminum spider is so small and not even part of the 6 bolt version. Other "levels" to follow?
I don't think I would have tried it if it were ice-tech, but it's plain old steel.I haven't seen one of these in person, but I'm wondering if there are other changes to the 220 to prevent warping etc.
I don't think I would have tried it if it were ice-tech, but it's plain old steel.
Is this a 1.8 thickness?shimano's 220 rotors were originally launched for cargo bikes, but it looks now like they have quietly rolled them out as deore and SLX. for some reason the deore is centerlock and the SLX is 6 bolt.
SHIMANO CENTER LOCK Disc Brake Rotor 220/203/180/160/140 mm | SHIMANO BIKE-EU
SHIMANO's SM-RT64 disc brake rotors deliver powerful and consistent braking performance in all riding conditions. SHIMANO's CENTER LOCK mounting system makes installing and removing disc brake rotors quick and easy, thanks to the spline mount and lock ring design.bike.shimano.com
6-Bolt Disc Brake Rotor 220/203/180/160 mm | SHIMANO BIKE-EU
SHIMANO's SM-RT66 6-bolt disc brake rotors deliver consistent stopping power in all riding conditions. The disc brake rotor's reliable anti-loosen plate construction makes for quick and secure installation.bike.shimano.com
Joke's on you, I drive a 99 Mazda 323, I spend my money on important things, like pretentious pedals.Damn, $300+USD for pedals is going beyond dentist and into SF Bay Area Tesla driving tech dork range....
I'll measure with a caliper tonight. But if they were any thicker I don't think I could have made them work with this brand new caliper and pads. Maybe with slightly worn pads?Is this a 1.8 thickness?
I think as the rotors get super big like this thicker is a good idea not just from heat capacity aspect, but to resist bending too. 2.0 seems like a decent min. Magura is doing that. TRP 2.3.