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Short Crank Curious…

kidwoo

Artisanal Tweet Curator
The question is. When will the dumb ass mtb crowd fall for new sew up technology schwalbes*? :brows:

*insert (see what I did there?) tyre "designer" of choice


*checks watch*







been about 8-12 years


I'll have some prototypes by sea otter. All kinds of pandemic wave dipshits that will think it's new
 
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6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
15,980
13,234
You know.......if you could somehow get that to stick to the rim and not the outer centerline of the tire convince people that this will stick to the rim and not the outer centerline of the tire....
Just have to spin the wheel backwards after you've squirted it in.
 

Lelandjt

Turbo Monkey
Apr 4, 2008
2,516
829
Breckenridge, CO/Lahaina,HI
I've advocated for 170 and 165 cranks since the early 2000s when every bike came with 175s. However, owning bikes with all three, I can feel a difference in power. On my enduro bike I'm willing to give up that little bit of power for the benefits of 170. On the DH & BMX bikes I'm willing to give up even more power for the way 165s feel. I would not want to climb on my enduro bike with 165s and when I tested 170s on XC and trail bikes I was slower on climbs and lacking a little power in other places. I'm 6'2", so subtract 5mm from these lengths if you're sub-6', but contrary to what many reviewers are saying these days, shorter cranks do have a downside and the right balance of traits should be found to match a bike.
 

4xBoy

Turbo Monkey
Jun 20, 2006
7,050
2,894
Minneapolis
32 inseam I am on 165 for trail, 170 fat bike 172.5 grav.

I like 165 a lit these days, stupid big cassette means I have more than enough leverage, short means I don't pedal strike every rock.

But now the derailleur is a so big it hits everything.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,999
9,660
AK
*checks watch*







been about 8-12 years


I'll have some prototypes by sea otter. All kinds of pandemic wave dipshits that will think it's new
Based off the still very new XC tire, this Peyote tubular gumwall is pure prototype at this point. It’s mounted to their new Carbon Race Tubular rims made with Graphene. Tire weights should be around 700g, and the wheels are 1400g, making for a very light combination. It’ll be offered in 29 x 2.25, but may not be around until much later this year.
Ahh yes, the idiotic runs deep here. Even gots Graphene for some heavy-for-XC tires and wheels. IDK how to make this better, maybe some Nanotubes, Vibrocore and Aerogel and make it another 300g heavier.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,999
9,660
AK
who said it needs to be better?

it just needs to convince a few dumbasses it's 'new' and solves some concept they don't understand
By "better", I mean make people pay more for something that weighs more.
 

sethimus

neu bizutch
Feb 5, 2006
4,976
2,189
not in Whistler anymore :/
so specialized decided to ship the kenevo sl in size s4 and bigger with 170 cranks. they charge eye watering 650chf for replacement carbon cranks that only go down to 165mm which even at cost is still ridiculus expensive. so some smart person found out that they make some 155mm alu cranks for the levo sl kids bike which are adult rated which i ordered. soon in the 155mm club :)
 

SylentK

Turbo Monkey
Feb 25, 2004
2,332
879
coloRADo
32 inseam I am on 165 for trail, 170 fat bike 172.5 grav.

I like 165 a lit these days, stupid big cassette means I have more than enough leverage, short means I don't pedal strike every rock.

But now the derailleur is a so big it hits everything.
Ha, yes, this. Es la verdad (just got back from mexico and apparently still speaking spanish)
 
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Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
1,026
994
so specialized decided to ship the kenevo sl in size s4 and bigger with 170 cranks. they charge eye watering 650chf for replacement carbon cranks that only go down to 165mm which even at cost is still ridiculus expensive. so some smart person found out that they make some 155mm alu cranks for the levo sl kids bike which are adult rated which i ordered. soon in the 155mm club :)
That's hilarious. In the US you can get the same carbon cranks direct from Praxis for $200.
 

sethimus

neu bizutch
Feb 5, 2006
4,976
2,189
not in Whistler anymore :/
scratch that, 5devs have some, no 155 though:


apparently the same interface as srams version of the brose motor, so there should be more at some point
 

Bikael Molton

goofy for life
Jun 9, 2003
4,028
1,165
El Lay
I now have 2 rides with 3k of climbing on these 165s, and so far so good. I may gear down on the chainring, since I already have the ring on hand.
Out of the saddle sprinting is smoother, which was a nice surprise.
 
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canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
20,523
19,531
Canaderp
Not sure if posted already, also not sure if these are still for sale, but they apparently came in 155mm lengths.


Might be a cheap option, if you want to try without diving too deep. Though, it does require one of their stupid GXP bottom brackets (I have one for free, if someone wants it).

::edit:: these as well, apparently:

 
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Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,999
9,660
AK
Come back to the Shimano world! So much easier to work on....and cheaper.
Id argue that 30mm BBs are even easier, off the shelf industrial high quality bearings available basically forever. Unlike the wacky stuff that Dub and the new smaller shimanos are.
 

Gary

"S" is for "neo-luddite"
Aug 27, 2002
7,667
5,583
UK
Let's be honest here most current mtb BBs and cranks whether pressfit or BSA and 22, 24 or 29/30mm axle hardly require a huge amount of expertise to replace do they?
Shimano and SRAM clearly designed all of theirs with not a lot of attention to longevity but to be fairly cheap, disposable and easily replaced items.
But stupid plastic pre-load adjusters with a clamping bolt requiring 2mm hex that gets filled with mud or frequently over tightened by riders or big dumb 30mm pre-load wavy washers are both ideas I'd happily see fuck off forever. Same for needlessly over complicated crank extraction systems, especially anything requiring expensive proprietary tools.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
20,523
19,531
Canaderp
Id argue that 30mm BBs are even easier, off the shelf industrial high quality bearings available basically forever. Unlike the wacky stuff that Dub and the new smaller shimanos are.
30mm bottom brackets start at $70ish here. I think the cheapest one is a RaceFace/Easton BB and they retail for $70 usually. Not cheap, considering a Shimano can be grabbed any day for $40 or less. The more expensive RaceFace BB's life is significantly shorter as well, in my experience.

I even tried going the route of a CaneCreek Hellbender 30mm whatever, but ended up binning those... https://ridemonkey.bikemag.com/threads/bb-coming-loose.289681/

But like @Gary mentions, part of the reason for loving going back to Shimano is that I don't have to deal with that stupid preload ring or having to worry about doing up that single large bolt with just the right amount of torque; so that I can get it off without busting my knuckles or it not eventually coming loose. Shimano cranks are just so much easier and better to work with.
 

Gary

"S" is for "neo-luddite"
Aug 27, 2002
7,667
5,583
UK
30mm bottom brackets start at $70ish here.
Depends on the particular iteration of 30mm interface.
BB30 is just 2 6806 sealed bearings fitted directly into the BB shell. often held in place by re-usable snapring/circlips.
So as cheap as you can find the bearing.
PF30 more commonly found on mtbs has pressed in cups housing the same bearings (which can also usually be replaced)
 
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Gary

"S" is for "neo-luddite"
Aug 27, 2002
7,667
5,583
UK
Never bothered to work out the exact cause but SRAM DUB crank bolts tend to self tighten so rarely ever come loose
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
20,523
19,531
Canaderp
Depends on the particular iteration of 30mm interface.
BB30 is just 2 6806 sealed bearings fitted directly into the BB shell. often held in place by re-usable snapring/circlips.
So as cheap as you can find the bearing.
PF30 more commonly found on mtbs has pressed in cups housing the same bearings (which can also usually be replaced)
I meant threaded bottom brackets, none of that other nonsense.
 

Jozz

Joe Dalton
Apr 18, 2002
5,887
7,424
SADL
30mm bottom brackets start at $70ish here. I think the cheapest one is a RaceFace/Easton BB and they retail for $70 usually. Not cheap, considering a Shimano can be grabbed any day for $40 or less. The more expensive RaceFace BB's life is significantly shorter as well, in my experience.

I even tried going the route of a CaneCreek Hellbender 30mm whatever, but ended up binning those... https://ridemonkey.bikemag.com/threads/bb-coming-loose.289681/

But like @Gary mentions, part of the reason for loving going back to Shimano is that I don't have to deal with that stupid preload ring or having to worry about doing up that single large bolt with just the right amount of torque; so that I can get it off without busting my knuckles or it not eventually coming loose. Shimano cranks are just so much easier and better to work with.
I'd argue also that I have a RF external BB that went (and still going but with a little side to side play) 6500km. It's the 24mm variant. Hopefully the 30mm will be as durable.
 

toodles

ridiculously corgi proportioned
Aug 24, 2004
5,518
4,770
Australia
Id argue that 30mm BBs are even easier, off the shelf industrial high quality bearings available basically forever. Unlike the wacky stuff that Dub and the new smaller shimanos are.
Yeah it sucks Shimano doesn't use off-the-shelf bearings. It means every couple of years I have to spend $25 on a new Shimano BB instead of stuffing around rebuilding it with $50 worth of off-the-shelf bearings
 

Gary

"S" is for "neo-luddite"
Aug 27, 2002
7,667
5,583
UK
Oh. Cool Race Face story time?
My old Capra came with Raceface finishing kit and cranks/BB. Third climb on the first ride BB/cranks began creaking. Turned out the cinch DM chainring lockring had come loose. Then a week or so later after it's first wet ride the BB seized; I removed the cranks and removed & pulled apart each sealed bearing to find the miniscule balls inside dry and rusting in the races. As everything was so new I just ordered new bearings rather than a whole new BB and cleaned out the originals and greased with RG3 to do me one moar ride until their replacements arrived. That was 6 years ago and I still have the replacement bearings waiting to be fitted as the original bearings are still running smoothly, noise and play free from that one re-greasing.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
20,523
19,531
Canaderp
BB seized......cleaned out the originals and greased with RG3 to do me one moar ride until their replacements arrived. That was 6 years ago..........original bearings are still running smoothly, noise and play free from that one re-greasing.

Unless that bike has spent 6 years on a trainer.